3. After 2 minutes, begin checking for doneness with a fork. As soon as the asparagus is tender enough to pierce slightly with a small amount of pressure (still resistant, but no longer stone-hard), remove the cover and turn the heat back up to medium-high. Add the garlic and salt, toss to coat, and cook over this higher heat for just 30 seconds. (This allows any remaining liquid to evaporate.) Serve hot, warm, or at room temperature.
ASPARAGUS TIPS
Asparagus is sold in bundles, usually 1-pounders. Be sure to use it within a few days of purchasing—asparagus really doesn’t age well. A shopping pointer: Always check out the tips of the asparagus before buying. If they’re dry and tight, the asparagus is fresh. If they’re separating, wilted, or at all moist, it’s over the hill. Refrigerate asparagus loosely covered. Don’t seal it up, airtight, in a plastic bag, or it will soon start to rot—it needs to breathe a little. “Trimming” asparagus translation: Snap off and discard the tough ends. The asparagus will know where its own dividing line is.
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GET CREATIVE
Right before serving, drizzle lightly with high-quality olive oil.
Squeeze a little fresh lemon juice over the cooked asparagus. You can also garnish with a bit of freshly grated lemon zest.
Dress the cooked spears with a splash of balsamic vinegar or a drizzle of pomegranate molasses (see Get Cooking).
Tarragon, fresh or dried, is the most compatible herb for asparagus. If using dried, add ½ teaspoon when you add the salt and garlic. Or sprinkle on 1 tablespoon minced fresh tarragon just before serving.
Serve with Poached Salmon with Shortcut “Hollandaise” (see Chapter 6: Chicken, Fish, and Meat)—and put some of that very delicious sauce on the asparagus, too.
Take this in an Asian direction by adding 1 to 2 teaspoons minced fresh ginger with the garlic, or by sprinkling the cooked asparagus with sushi ginger and some toasted sesame seeds. You can also sprinkle a little soy sauce and/or a drizzle of toasted sesame oil over the cooked asparagus.
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absolutely the best broccoli
Makes 4 servings
This two-phase process is a wonderful way to cook broccoli, especially if you’re having people over and want to do some of the preparation ahead of time. First you blanch large pieces in boiling water. Then, just before serving, you give it a delicious warm-up in gently heated garlic-infused olive oil for a perfect finish. You can do the first phase—the blanching—up to 5 days ahead, which saves time at the last minute (and blanched broccoli will take up less space in the refrigerator than raw).
This recipe is vegan.
Salt for the cooking water
1 large head of broccoli (1½ pounds)
2 tablespoons olive oil
½ teaspoon minced garlic (about half a good-sized clove)
¼ teaspoon salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1. Put a large pot of cold water to boil over high heat, and add a big pinch of salt. Place a large colander in the sink.
2. While waiting for the water to boil, trim and discard the tough stem end of the broccoli, and slice the rest lengthwise into about 6 hefty spears.
3. When the water boils, lower the heat to a simmer and plunge in the broccoli. Cook for 2 minutes if you like your vegetables tender-crisp, 3 minutes if you like them tender-tender.
4. Drain the broccoli in the colander, shaking it emphatically, and then dry the broccoli by patting it with paper towels or a clean kitchen towel. (You can prepare the broccoli ahead of time up to this point and then keep it at room temperature for up to 2 hours, or in the refrigerator in a resealable bag or tightly covered container for up to 5 days; let it come to room temperature or microwave it to warm it slightly before proceeding.)
5. Place a large (10-to 12-inch) heavy skillet over medium-low heat and add the olive oil. While you are waiting for the oil to heat, cut the broccoli into smaller pieces (whatever size and shape you prefer).
6. When the oil has become warm (after about 3 minutes), add the broccoli and heat it in the oil, turning it frequently with tongs, for about 3 minutes. Then add the garlic, and continue to cook for another 3 to 5 minutes (possibly even a little longer), or until the broccoli is heated through, cooked to your liking, and delightfully coated with the garlic and oil. Add the salt, plus some black pepper to taste. Serve hot or warm.
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GET CREATIVE
Drizzle with a bit of high-quality olive oil, or a roasted nut or seed oil, just before serving. Garnish with the corresponding nut—chopped toasted walnuts, hazelnuts, etc.
Use more garlic (fresh or roasted—see Chapter 1: Soups) and/or some red pepper flakes for more assertive flavor.
Add up to 1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger along with the garlic.
Squeeze fresh lemon juice over the broccoli just before serving.
Sprinkle some crumbled goat cheese or bleu cheese over the hot broccoli just before serving.
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deeply roasted cauliflower
Makes 3 generous servings
Cauliflower is one of those vegetables that is good anywhere and everywhere along the textural spectrum—from raw to mush (as in, boiled to oblivion and mashed with butter, salt, and pepper, mashed-potato-style). This high-temperature treatment allows it to be a bit of both—very well cooked (to the point of singed, but in a good way) and utterly tender, but also crisp and crunchy.
This recipe is vegan.
1 tablespoon olive oil (possibly more)
1 large cauliflower, cored and cut into 1-inch pieces
¼ teaspoon salt, or to taste
1. Adjust the oven rack to the center position and preheat the oven to 425°F. Line a baking tray with foil, and drizzle it with the olive oil.
2. Arrange the cauliflower pieces on the tray and shake them into a single layer. Put the tray in the oven and roast the cauliflower for 10 minutes.
3. Shake the tray and/or use tongs to redistribute the cauliflower so that more surfaces can come into contact with the hot oil. (This will crisp everything up nicely.) Roast for another 5 minutes, or until a taste test tells you the cauliflower is cooked to your liking. (It will continue to cook a bit more after it comes out of the oven.)
4. Remove the tray from the oven, and let the cauliflower cool for about 10 minutes on the tray. Season with the salt, and serve hot, warm, or at room temperature.
GET CREATIVE
Spice mixes are really nice on roasted cauliflower. Try sprinkling on a bit of za’atar (Chapter 5: Burgers) about halfway through the roasting process. Or try a store-bought spice blend, such as Cajun blackening spices or curry powder.
Season with a splash of balsamic vinegar.
Consider leaving out the salt, or tasting the cauliflower before adding any. You might be surprised at how good it tastes unsalted. That said, it’s also fun to garnish this with a very light sprinkling of coarse, crunchy salt.
Crumble some feta, goat cheese, or bleu cheese over the hot cauliflower after you take it out of the oven, and let it melt to form a cheese topping.
Sprinkle some toasted breadcrumbs (see Chapter 3: Pastas) over the cauliflower after it comes out of the oven.
To make a gratin, transfer the cooked cauliflower to a baking dish, top with toasted breadcrumbs (see Chapter 3: Pastas) and shredded jack or Cheddar cheese, and put the pan under the broiler briefly to melt the cheese.
Include a thickly sliced red onion or a thickly sliced carrot on the baking tray and roast it along with the cauliflower.
Try this same process using broccoli instead of all or some of the cauliflower.
Roasted cauliflower will keep for up to 5 days in a tightly covered container in the refrigerator, and will respond beautifully to all sorts of sauces, glazes, and salad dressings. You can also just cut it small and throw it into a green salad.
seriously good green beans amandine
Makes 4 to 5 servings
The classic preparation, only better. The double cooking
process involves blanching the beans first, and then coating them in a warm mixture of toasted almonds and garlic-and-butter-infused olive oil. You will want to make this for special occasions. You may also want to make it every night.
Make this vegan by omitting the butter. (You could increase the olive oil.)
Salt for the cooking water
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 teaspoons butter
¾ cup chopped almonds
1 teaspoon minced garlic (1 good-sized clove)
1½ pounds green beans, stem ends trimmed
¼ teaspoon salt
1. Put a large pot of cold water to boil over high heat, and add a big pinch of salt. Place a large colander in the sink.
2. While waiting for the water to boil, place a large (10-to 12-inch) heavy skillet over medium-low heat and add the olive oil. When the oil has become warm (after about 3 minutes), add the butter and swirl to combine. Turn the heat down to low, add the almonds, and cook, stirring frequently, for 5 to 8 minutes, or until they give off a toasty aroma. During the last couple of minutes, stir in the garlic. Watch carefully and keep stirring, turning the heat down if the almonds or garlic begins to burn. Remove the pan from the heat and set it aside.
3. When the water boils, turn the heat down to low and add the green beans. Simmer for 3 to 5 minutes, or until the beans turn bright green and shiny and are beginning to become tender. (This is subjective, so do a taste test.) When they are done to your liking, drain them in the colander, shaking it emphatically, and then dry the beans by patting them with paper towels or a clean kitchen towel.
4. Return the pan of almonds to the stove over medium-low heat. Add the green beans, turning them with tongs until they are uniformly coated with the oil and nicely mingled with the almonds. Sprinkle in the salt as you go. Serve hot, warm, or at room temperature.
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GET CREATIVE
Toss a handful of halved cherry tomatoes in with the beans just before serving.
Canned French-fried onions make a fun, tasty topping.
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delightfully spiced carrots
Makes 4 servings
Having written many vegetable-featuring cookbooks over the past very many years, I can say with some confidence that the spices in this recipe are the ones that love carrots the best. And vice versa. Whether eating them cooked or raw, I like my carrots crunchy, so I’ve designed this recipe around that preference. But perhaps you like them better soft when cooked. If so, you can add an extra, easy step: Simply put a pot of water to boil, and put a colander in the sink. When the water is ready, toss in the sliced carrots and cook for 30 seconds or so. Then immediately drain them in the colander, shake it exuberantly a few times, and proceed with the recipe. You will get your tender result this way.
This recipe is vegan.
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 teaspoon ground cumin
½ teaspoon cinnamon
8 medium-sized carrots (about 1½ pounds), cut on the diagonal into ¼-inch-thick slices
½ teaspoon minced garlic (about 1 small clove)
¼ teaspoon salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1. Place a large (10-to 12-inch) heavy skillet over medium heat. After about a minute, add the olive oil and swirl to coat the pan.
2. Stir in the cumin and cinnamon, and let them cook in the oil for about 30 seconds. Then add the carrots and garlic, turning them with tongs until thoroughly coated with oil and spice.
3. Sprinkle in the salt, and stir well. Cover, and cook, stirring several times, for about 5 minutes, or until the carrots are just tender. (If at any point they appear to be sticking or scorching, add a tablespoon of water.) Serve hot, warm, or at room temperature.
GET CREATIVE
Garnish with lemon wedges for squeezing at the table.
Add a teaspoon or two of butter when heating the olive oil and spices.
Add a pinch or two of red pepper flakes along with the spices.
Add a tablespoon or two of fresh lemon juice or orange juice along with the carrots.
Add up to a teaspoon of grated lemon and/or orange zest.
Add 2 teaspoons honey or brown sugar along with the carrots. (Or just sweeten to taste.)
Add up to 3 tablespoons minced crystallized ginger along with the carrots.
Add ¼ cup currants or golden raisins along with the carrots.
Toss in a few tablespoons of minced fresh mint during the last minute or so of cooking (highly recommended!).
Sprinkle the cooked carrots with up to ½ cup toasted chopped walnuts or sliced or slivered almonds.
fajita-style peppers and onions
Makes 4 to 5 servings
When cooked minimally over high heat, sweet bell peppers retain much of their crispness and color and become even sweeter and more intense, resulting in the most versatile side-dish-slash-condiment imaginable. A touch of this magical combo can cheer up any plate, at any temperature. Serve it as a side dish or wrap it in a tortilla, and you can accommodate vegetarians alongside meat lovers when whipping up a steak fajita dinner (see Chapter 6: Chicken, Fish, and Meat). You can also pile these peppers and onions on any burger (see burger chapter beginning on Chapter 5: Burgers), a Pan-Grilled Boneless Chicken Breast (Chapter 6: Chicken, Fish, and Meat), an open-faced toasted cheese sandwich, an omelet, pasta, pizza, rice…really just about anything. Make a batch and keep it in the refrigerator for up to a week, stored in a resealable plastic bag or a tightly covered container, so you can use it whenever you like.
This recipe is vegan.
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 medium red or yellow onion, thickly sliced
1 large red bell pepper, cut into ¼-inch-wide strips
1 large yellow bell pepper, cut into ¼-inch-wide strips
1 large green bell pepper, cut into ¼-inch-wide strips
¼ teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon minced garlic (1 good-sized clove)
1. Place a large (10-to 12-inch) heavy skillet over medium heat. After about a minute, add the olive oil and swirl to coat the pan. Turn the heat to high, and add the onion. Cook for 3 minutes, or until the onion begins to soften.
2. Add the bell peppers, salt, and garlic, and cook for about 1 minute. Then turn the heat down to medium, and continue to cook and stir (tongs work best) for only about 5 minutes longer. The peppers should be barely cooked. Serve hot, warm, or at room temperature.
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GET CREATIVE
For a kick of heat and flavor, add up to 1 teaspoon chili powder, a pinch of red pepper flakes, a pinch of oregano, or ½ teaspoon ground cumin or toasted cumin seeds (see Chapter 1: Soups) along with the onion.
Once the peppers and onions are cooked, stir in a tablespoon or two of fresh lime juice.
For an exotic and very special treat, search the aisles of a gourmet store for toasted pumpkin seed oil (or ask someone to give you a bottle for your birthday). Drizzle this on top, and prepare to swoon.
Top with Peppy Pepitas (Chapter 8: Party Snacks) or plain toasted pumpkin seeds.
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spinach with garlic
Makes 2 to 3 servings
So simple, and so good. This delicious little dish cooks so fast, you can make successive batches and the first batch will still be hot by the time you’re finished with the second. Another reason to make it twice: The first batch might be gone before you get to the second. People walking through your kitchen, armed with forks, know how to make this disappear. You can make this with fresh or frozen (either whole-leaf or chopped) spinach. For this dish, they’re pretty much interchangeable.
This recipe is vegan.
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