1. Go it alone. Never take a friend along while making a choice this personal. You have your perfume agenda—they have one that’s completely different. Something you love on yourself, they may think doesn’t suit you at all. Contrary to what you may currently believe, it has little to do with how perfume develops on the skin. The idea that fragrances smell different on each individual is becoming a thing of the past. The more synthetics are used in the creation process, the less individual the fragrance will smell. A fragrance has to suit a wearer’s personality.
2. Try lots! But how many can you try in one shopping day? More than you imagine if you take time. If you smell fragrances freshly sprayed, your nose will tire after the third one or so. This is due to the alcohol content, which works like an anaesthetic. It’s a bit like drinking three gin and tonics and still expecting to have razor-sharp perception.
Smelling the perfume on paper on the ‘dry down’ (when the perfume has settled and the alcohol has evaporated) means you can smell fragrances all day without fatigue. Testing on paper is the only sane way to try a fragrance. It’s free from glues or binders and is as near to skin as is possible to recreate. The only thing missing is the warmth of the skin, so breathe out very hard on them to warm them up before you inhale.
Spray a few on blotter cards, turn them over to conceal the brand and then smell them away from the perfumery department. Maybe take yourself to a smart little bar and slowly sniff and deliberate alongside a glass of well-chilled champagne. After all, this could become a long-term love affair and it needs to be approached like a game of seduction—slowly and with pleasure.
Smell them one at a time, comparing each one to the next, eliminating the one you like least of the two you’re comparing, then continue the process until you have only one or a maximum of two left, then turn the card to see which one has seduced you.
3. Always have unperfumed skin when going to buy a new scent, or the scents will fight against each other.
Now go back to the counter and spray one and only one on your skin. And it shouldn’t be a small squirt on your wrist. Spray it all over, then go away and sleep on it. A quick sniff is like flirting —just like a lover. It’s only when you spend the night together that you know if the relationship is going to work out or not.
If you’re still in love in the morning, then buy it.
Now, before you head out to meet your soulmate, you are lucky that this relationship expert aka perfumer has also given you cues to help you choose better.
Here is Roja’s elaboration on prominent ingredients in the olfaction family:
1. Amber
A hugely popular note in perfumery is amber, which is interesting, as amber does not exist in perfumery per se. It is a term that causes huge confusion, as many people use it without understanding its meaning. It has nothing to do with the fossilized resin used in jewellery and is generally used to describe synthetic ambergris. It is often used to describe oriental harmonies, created from a blend of benzoin, labdanum and vanilla. True ambergris, when used, is a completely ecological material as it is a natural secretion from the sperm whale, but because it is so rare, and so exquisitely beautiful in its odour, it is one of the most-cherished and least-used materials in the perfumers canon.
2. Aoud
Agarwood, also known as aoud, oud, or oudh, is the resinous heartwood of the aquilaria tree. The heartwood becomes diseased, leaving it dark, oily and incredibly dense. The wood becomes so dense that it does not float. The oil is distilled from the wood and the wood is still burnt in the traditional manner, known as bakhoor, making it one of the oldest forms of incense in the world. It is a relative of sandalwood and has been used for longer than any other material we know of. It has an incredible depth and it sits very low down in the composition of a fragrance, meaning it lasts and lasts on the skin. It has the ability to hold other materials in place, making it an excellent fixative. Like all materials, it varies hugely in quality as many aouds on the market are of poor quality, and/or have very little aoud in them.
It is still the scent of choice in the Middle East and is now formally established in Western perfumery. It was Tom Ford who brought this fashion to the West when he launched Oud Wood in 2008, adding touches of it to Noir et Noir and Tuscan Leather in the same year. His Private Blends were so influential that other perfumers quickly followed suit in the same year, showing the breadth of interest and diversity of houses who wanted to capture a little of the glamour and exoticism that aoud imparts.
3. Bergamot
It is no grand statement to make when one says that citrus notes are found in more or less all perfumery creations. They create a pleasurable introduction to the fragrance, giving it vitality and freshness. These notes dissipate quicker than any other materials, which is why a perfume ‘evolves’ over time—these citrus notes help to make a perfume less heavy at its starting point. You can use lemon or lime or grapefruit, for example, but of all the citrus notes, there is no other quite like bergamot. It is the finest of the citrus notes and is obtained from the fruit of Citrus bergamia, which grows throughout Southern Italy—the best coming from Calabria. The finest quality is still obtained by pressing the oil from the rind by hand on to a sea sponge. This is extremely labour-intensive and is basically no longer done. It takes 1500 kg of bergamot to produce 1 kg of oil. Like all hesperidic fruits, the oil is very volatile and therefore doesn’t last long. Whilst it is still very fresh, it is much richer and more rounded than any of the other citrus notes which smell somewhat one-dimensional in comparison, making bergamot a highly prized ingredient.
4. Rose
Man has been fascinated with rose since the time of the ancient Egyptians, who used it amongst other things for medical purposes. Homer and Sappho also refer to it, but it was the Middle Eastern perfumers who perfected the commercial distillation of rose water around the seventh or eighth century. There are various types of rose available to the perfumer—each one has its own specific olfactory quality. They each add a cool serenity to a composition and are often used to temper the overt sensuality of white blossoms.
Growing mainly in Grasse, Rose de Mai is like kryptonite for the perfumer. It produces the finest-quality oil on earth, displaying a honeyed odour underscored by a warm, peppery note. Not only is it the finest quality, but it is also one of the most notoriously difficult floral perfumery materials to harvest as it flowers only in the month of May (hence its name).
It takes over 3,00,000 roses picked before the sun gains strength in the morning to produce just 1 kg of oil. After the sun comes up, the amount of oil within the rose diminishes, and by noon it would require a further 50 per cent of blossoms to produce the same yield of oil—so it is better to wait until the next day.
It is essential to understand that this process is very labour-intensive as there is no mechanization involved. It costs tens of thousands of euros per kilo to produce, so it is literally worth its weight in gold.
Very few perfumers will use Rose de Mai in their fragrances, settling instead for the cheaper Bulgarian rose.
Rose is used in majority of all perfume compositions. Many are surprised to see just how many male scents it is used in, but when you consider the fact that a rose on a man will smell masculine and a rose on a woman will smell feminine, it starts to make sense. The rose has no masculine or feminine leanings—it is how the flower is dressed up in a fragrance accord that determines its ‘gender’.
5. Sandalwood
The finest sandalwood essential oil is obtained from Santalum album, which comes from Mysore in India. The tree needs to be a minimum of 30 years old before it displays its typical sweet, warm and smooth odour, so its harvesting is strictly regulated by the government. It is an extremely difficult material to balance in a creation, as it plays tricks with one’s sense of smell—one moment it is there and then the next it disappears.
Sandalwood is legendary for the lingering quality it brings to a perfume. It is one of the most expensive of all perfume raw materi
als and has also been used for longer than most.
It comes as no surprise then that sandalwood is used so commonly in perfumery—it is like a trigger word to many people. It is nothing if not beautiful, and to use it (well) in a composition is a sure-fire way for a perfumer’s creation to be loved.
6. Vanilla
Vanilla absolute is obtained from the seed pod of the tropical orchid Vanilla planifolia, which is grown commercially in Madagascar and Re´union as a result of the French creating plantations in the nineteenth century. Fine-grade vanilla will take 18 months of treatment before it will be used in perfumery. The finest quality, Vanilla Bourbon, takes roughly 24 months to produce. It is an excellent fixative and is indispensable for the creation of oriental harmonies.
Vanilla is a psychogenic aphrodisiac, enhancing all sensations of pleasure, and is one of the most expensive of all spices, so there is no wonder why it is used so regularly across perfumery. We as humans have a positive biological response to it, and its warm, soft and balsamic odour really helps to make a perfume well-rounded. However, vanilla can often be substituted for Vanillin in cheaper creations, which just doesn’t have the same effect.
7. Vetiver
Vetiver essential oil is obtained from the root of an Indian grass, Vetiveria zizanioides, which grows nearly 2 metres in height. It is an exceptionally fine and important fixative. Today, the main producers are Indonesia, Haiti and Re´union, with the finest coming from the latter. Whilst it is considered a masculine note, it is used in nearly 40 per cent of all feminine compositions, providing a backbone on which to work the other materials. Its scent is so warm, it smells dry—conveying earthy, leathery and smoky aspects.
Shrankhla Holecek: Uma Oils
The world is moving towards finding holistic solutions to every problem. While the healing process is very different from non-Ayurvedic methods, many of these organic solutions can end most of our concerns for good. We all hate popping pills because of the damages it could do to our body. But no one said you can’t address a concern without having to worry about the side effects.
This chapter of Roots to Radiance features a very special beauty entrepreneur—Shrankhla Holecek, founder of Uma Oils—who’s advocating the pros of holistic beauty all over the world. Going by how stressed millennials were back then (which we still are in current times), she quit her management job and turned to her roots to seek answers for lifelong wellness and beauty. Her brand may be a collection of most uniquely formulated luxurious oils, but it didn’t happen out of the blue.
She hails from a family of generational veterans who have mastered the craft of organic essential oil production and have supplied some of the world’s leading luxury beauty brands for decades. But the question is, where are these luxurious oils made?
Most definitely in India (Raipur) and roughly 30 kilometres from where I grew up.
Yes, I spent most of my life not knowing that the biggest beauty brands in the world are using the oils extracted out of an estate so close to my home. I came to know all about them only after they blew up the ‘gram with their amazingly packaged and philosophically strong products.
Small world, right? If that wasn’t enough, to my surprise, I came to know that we shared the same second name until she got married. But meeting another Upadhyay of Chhattisgarh wasn’t the factor that made me reach out to her—it was the unique ways her brand treats several disorders with essential oils. And no, it isn’t by skin type and other basic approaches. This thing goes deep within. They segregate disorders and classify them into three biological energies, aka, doshas—vata, pitta and kapha.
According to their philosophy, identifying your dosha is crucial, as it is your individual constitution. Treating your body according to it will lead you to achieve balance.
There are three states of the three doshas: balanced, increased and decreased.
Balanced means the doshas are present in their ideal proportions, which is also known as achieving the state of equilibrium.
Increased refers to beyond the normal proportion, also referred to as an ‘aggravated’ state.
Decreased: This is the depleted state, where you’re deprived of certain qualities, making you fall out of balance.
Here’s how it’s made simpler:
Dosha In Balance Out of Balance
Vata (Qualities affecting the elements of Space and Air) High energy, creative, friendly Dry skin/hair, anxiety, spacey
Pitta (Qualities affecting the elements of Fire and Water) Strength, courage, proper digestion, boost in confidence Aggression, insomnia, inflammation
Kapha (Qualities affecting the elements of Water and Earth) Loyalty, calmness, generosity Depression, discontentment, stubbornness
For this chapter, I pinned down this natural medicine practitioner to throw some light on essential oil blends, easing beauty struggles and more.
1. Essential Oil Pairings
Anti-ageing: Frankincense Oil + Juniper Berry Oil
Calming sensitivity: Chamomile Oil + Lavender Oil
Blemishes: Tea Tree Oil + Clove Oil
Hyperpigmentation: Ylang Ylang Oil + Orange Oil
Simple everyday scent: Sandalwood Oil + Jasmine Oil
2. Flowers, herbs, clays and leaves—top favourite ingredients for healthy skin and hair
Scalp nourishment: Hibiscus flowers
Brightening and glow: Saffron flowers
Pore cleaning and cleansing: Bentonite clay
Depigmentation: Fenugreek leaves
Hair growth: Curry leaves
Battling blemishes: Mint leaves
3. Body and face toning homemade mask: Banana and sandalwood with gram flour (alternatively: gram flour or oatmeal).
Loaded with Vitamin B6, and a good source of iron, manganese, Vitamin C, potassium, biotin and copper, bananas are excellent for the skin. This easy-to-prepare mask works best when applied once in two weeks.
Take a ripe banana and mash it until it reaches an even consistency.
Mix in sandalwood powder (or oatmeal or gram flour), and apply it all over the face and neck.
Allow the mask to dry for 10 minutes before rinsing off.
The nutrients in banana rejuvenate the skin, retard the ageing process and prevent the appearance of wrinkles. Sandalwood helps balance skin’s oil production (helping both dry and oily skin’s alike, as it moderates oil production as opposed to adding or taking away oil to the face). Sandalwood also calms inflammations and gives the skin a radiant glow.
4. Homemade dark spot correcting mask: Carrots with honey and lemon
Mash a medium-sized carrot to a pulp in your food processor (alternatively you can grate it).
Add 2 tablespoons of organic honey and 1 teaspoon of fresh lemon juice to this mix (skip the lemon juice if your skin is sensitive to it).
Apply this mixture to cleansed skin and leave on for 20–30 minutes before rinsing off with lukewarm water.
Carrots are a rich source of beta-carotene and vitamins C and K, ingredients that are beneficial for the skin as they slow down the ageing process and deeply moisturize the skin. Lemon lightens dark spots and aids in cellular turnover, and honey is an excellent natural antibacterial agent. Together, this is a super-ingredient mask that works for every skin type!
5. DIY Depigmenting Mask: Almond flour with milk powder, honey and rose water
This is a potent DIY face mask for those bothered by dry skin and skin blemishes!
Mix 2 tablespoons each of milk powder and almond flour (available more readily than you’d imagine at your local grocer!) with 1 tablespoon each of honey and rose water.
Apply this paste evenly to the face and neck region, allowing it about 20 minutes to dry.
Rinse with cold water.
Almond flour, milk and honey deeply nourish the skin, while rose water serves as a toner. This mask can be applied daily and is extremely helpful in lightening blemishes. In case of spot pigmentation problems, apply the mask and leave on overnight.
1 V
ictor Lipman, ‘How Your Clothes Can Help You Get Promoted’, 8 June 2018, https://www.forbes.com/sites/victorlipman/2018/06/08/how-your-clothes-can-help-you-get-promoted/#629b9c817e47
1 David Zinczenko, Zero Belly Diet (New York: Ballantine Books) 2014.
2 https://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/rita-ora-post-malone-halloween-costume-haunted-house-party-wembley-london-a8604161.html
3 https://economictimes.indiatimes.com/magazines/panache/95-millennials-stressed-in-india-work-is-the-main-trigger/articleshow/65636099.cms
1 https://hort.purdue.edu/newcrop/morton/indian_jujube.html
1 Hawan: https://www.thehindu.com/sci-tech/ancient-fire-ritual-has-positive-impact-on-environment-scientists/article2103881.ece
2 Bindi: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bindu_(symbol)
1 https://www.byrdie.com/grace-kelly-beauty-secrets
2 https://www.femniqe.com/epsom-salt-weight-loss/
https://www.emaxhealth.com/8782/10-minute-trick-get-you-your-skinny-jeans-party
https://www.healthambition.com/epsom-salt-bath-weight-loss-benefits/
1 https://thecsrjournal.in/food-wastage-in-india-a-serious-concern/
Acknowledgements
I was told writing a book is one of the hardest things I’ll ever do and that it’s as painful as giving birth. I don’t agree with any of that at all.
As far as giving birth is concerned, it is also considered one of the most fulfilling things women can do. I know nothing about that (yet), but writing this book definitely is the most fulfilling act I’ve ever done.
The majority of this book has been written at midnight, but boy, have I found that to be the best time to work! Through this book I’ve realized that I’m not only not a morning person, but also that I’m a pretty good midnight person when it comes to writing and productivity.
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