by Peter Mayle
The hours went by, leaving the restaurant almost empty except for our invisible companions, the ghosts of those who had eaten there over the past two centuries: Grand Duke Vladimir of Russia, Charles Dickens, John Stuart Mill, Robert Browning and Elizabeth Barrett during their elopement, Chateaubriand, the future king Edward VII—and, blending into the background as they kept a careful eye on everything from the waiter’s fingernails to the chef’s sauces, several generations of Michelin inspectors.
It had been a lovely evening, and it marked the end of a certain stage in the preparation of this book—the end of that leisurely, enjoyable, and often well-fed process that I like to call research. A toast seemed appropriate.
We drank to chefs, particularly French chefs. And then we raised our glasses again to that unsung hero of the table, custodian of the nation’s stomach, and seeker after gastronomic immortality, wherever he can find it: Monsieur Tout le Monde. Let’s hope he’s with us for another hundred years.
Last Course
Descriptions on a page can go only so far; there is nothing quite like being there. And so, for those of you who would like to see for yourselves some of the restaurants, places, and events that I’ve written about, here are a few details. I can’t, unfortunately, give precise dates of the fairs and festivals, as these will change by a day or two each year, but I’ve included contact addresses where appropriate. Get in touch by phone or fax (much of rural France is not yet plugged in to e-mail), and all will be revealed. The organizers of these events welcome a big turnout, and I’ve found that inquiries usually receive prompt and helpful replies. Good luck! I hope you have as much fun as I did.
THE INNER FRENCHMAN
Marius et Janette, 4 avenue George V, Paris. Phone: 01.42.23.41.88. Fax: 01.47.23.07.19. One Michelin star. Specialties: Grilled sea bass, turbot aioli (garlic mayonnaise).
L’Isle Sonnante, 7 rue Racine, 8400 Avignon. Phone: 04.90.82.56.01. One Michelin star. Specialties: Filet of rabbit stuffed with olive purée, game and wild mushrooms in season.
Restaurant La Fontaine, place de La Fontaine, 84760 Saint Martin de la Brasque. Phone: 04.90.07.72.16.
FOR WHAT WE ARE ABOUT TO RECEIVE
La Messe des Truffes takes place on a Sunday during the second half of January. Contact: La Mairie, 84600 Richerenches. (The nearest big town is Orange.)
THE THIGH-TASTERS OF VITTEL
La Foire aux Grenouilles take place toward the end of April. Contact: La Maison de Tourisme, 88800 Vittel, for dates and hotel recommendations.
ARISTOCRATS WITH BLUE FEET
Les Glorieuses normally take place during the last weekend before Christmas. Contact: Office du Tourisme, BP 190, avenue Alsace Lorraine, 01000 Bourg-en-Bresse. L’Auberge Bressane, 166 boulevard de Brou. Fax: 04.74.23.03.15. Specialty: Bresse chicken.
LOVE AT FIRST SNIFF
La Foire aux Fromages at Livarot takes place during a weekend in early August. Contact: Office du Tourisme de Livarot, 1 place G. Bisson, 14140 Livarot. (The nearest big town is Lisieux.)
SLOW FOOD
La Foire aux Escargots takes place during the second weekend in May. Contact: Comité d’Animation, La Mairie, 88320 Martigny-les-Bains. (The nearest big towns are Contrexéville and Vittel.)
UNDRESSING FOR LUNCH
Le Club 55, Plage de Pampelonne, 83350 Ramatuelle. Fax: 04.94.79.85.00. Lunch only. Dress optional.
A CONNOISSEUR’S MARATHON
Le Marathon du Médoc takes place on a Saturday in mid-September. Contact: C.R.D. Tourisme d’Aquitaine, Bureau de la Cité Mondiale, 23 Parvis des Chartrons, 33074 Bordeaux Cedex. Fax: 05.56.01.70.07.
AMONG FLYING CORKS IN BURGUNDY
Les Trois Glorieuses are usually held during the third weekend in November, with the auction on the Sunday. Contact: C.R.D. Tourisme, Conseil Régional de Bourgogne, BP 1602, 21035 Dijon Cedex. Fax: 03.80.28.03.00.
A CIVILIZED PURGE
Les Prés d’Eugénie, 40320 Eugénie-les-Bains. Fax: 05.58.51.10.10 (both for the hotel and the Domaine de Huchet on the beach).
THE GUIDED STOMACH
Hotel d’Europe, 12 place Crillon, 8400 Avignon. Fax: 04.90.14.76.71.
Acclaim for PETER MAYLE’s
French Lessons
“Mayle’s mix of detail-rich anecdotes, mirthful commentaries on the peculiarities of French taste buds and drinking habits, and self-deprecating humor make for a delicious read.”
—The Washington Post
“Savory, sensual, positively transporting stories about his encounters with Gallic gustatory delights and about his growing appreciation of the central place food occupies in French life.… His descriptions of the meals they serve allow us to practically taste the frog legs and truffles right along with him.”
—Booklist
“Whether you’re going to France or just [out] to eat, Mayle is worth reading.”
—San Jose Mercury News
“Armchair diners will doubtless find the fourth volume … as tasty as ever.”
—New York magazine
“Foodies and Francophiles will discover a like-minded devotee. And all but the strictest vegetarian will be made hungry by this book. Mayle’s form is every bit as good as ever.”
—Associated Press
PETER MAYLE
French Lessons
Peter Mayle lives with his wife and their two dogs in the South of France. His hobbies include walking, reading, writing, and lunch.
ALSO BY PETER MAYLE
Encore Provence
Chasing Cézanne
Anything Considered
A Dog’s Life
Hotel Pastis
Toujours Provence
A Year in Provence
FIRST VINTAGE DEPARTURES EDITION, APRIL 2002
Copyright © 2001 by Escargot Productions Ltd.
Illustrations © 2001 by Alfred A. Knopf,
a division of Random House, Inc.
All rights reserved under International and Pan-American
Copyright Conventions. Published in the United States by
Vintage Books, a division of Random House, Inc., New York,
and simultaneously in Canada by Random House of Canada
Limited, Toronto. Originally published in hardcover in the
United States by Alfred A. Knopf, a division of
Random House, Inc., New York, in 2001.
Vintage is a registered trademark and Vintage Departures and colophon are trademarks of Random House, Inc.
The Library of Congress has cataloged the Knopf edition as
follows:
Mayle, Peter
French Lessons : adventures with knife, fork, and corkscrew / Peter Mayle.—1st ed.
p. cm.
I. Title.
2001087658
Includes 12 line drawings by Ruth Marten
Author photograph © Werner Gritzbach
www.vintagebooks.com
eISBN: 978-1-4000-7772-4
v3.0