SKIN CARE INGREDIENTS, DUPES, AND DEALS
2019 Guide
What to buy and why
Carolyn Greenwald
Copyright © 2018
Ithaca NY
All Rights Reserved
SKIN CARE INGREDIENTS, DUPES, AND DEALS
Introduction
Chapter One: The Short Answer
Chapter Two: Effective Ingredients
Common Ingredients That Are Not Very Effective
Chapter Three: The Daily Routine
Chapter Four: Cult Favorites and Other Great Products
Chapter Five: Dupes
Chapter Six: Mistakes of The Uninformed
Chapter Seven: What Else Can I Do For My Skin?
Conclusion
Introduction
In 2018, I started listening to the delightful podcast Forever 35 where two friends, Doree Shafir and Kate Spenser, talk about self-care, skin care, and serums. The discussions of what they like, what they use, and what is effective lead me to start on my own skin care journey. Prior to listening to the podcast, I had always used moisturizer because my skin felt dry after a shower and I knew I was supposed to use sunblock daily (but didn’t). That was it. I was a blank slate.
Starting a skin care routine wasn’t as easy as it sounds. Cosmetic products are filled with scientific sounding ingredients that all promise variations on a theme: younger, healthy looking skin. Not knowing what to buy, I started taking advice from The Strategist column in New York Magazine. This was a good place to begin, but the different products and serums were not presented in a way that allowed me to understand what to use and why. Plus, the website was always encouraging me to buy buy buy and I knew I didn’t know enough to make smart purchases. I decided that I was never going to understand the various labels and ingredients unless I started a chart and wrote them down.
Before I spend real money, I want to know if the ingredients in a product are “worth it.” Some of the joy of using a product comes from a sense of indulgence that creates real self-care. At the same time, I don’t want to feel like a sucker who fell for beauty industry malarkey. In my mind, it is self-care to know there is science behind the ingredients in the products that I purchase.
Additionally, it was not immediately clear to me how to use many of the products on the market. I had questions about whether products can and should be layered, how to time applications, and whether my skin should be wet or dry. Again, I looked to science to find my answers.
To figure this out for myself I began reading books, reading websites, listening to more podcasts and watching YouTube. I read every skin care book in my public library system and purchased several more. It’s not easy to figure out who is giving it to you straight and who is trying to sell you something (hint: almost everyone).
After reading and organizing the best information I could find, I have pretty much figured out what I should buy and how to use it. Here, I share what I’ve learned in a manner I think will be most helpful to the next person looking to maximize their skin care choices. This book is not a paid endorsement. It is the fruits of my research. I am not a scientist or a dermatologist. Think of me as your friend in the know.
Chapter One is the short answer. This chapter contains a basic routine for a reader who just wants to know what relatively inexpensive products to buy and how to use them morning and evening.
Chapter Two is an in-depth discussion of ingredients. The beginning of the chapter lists ingredients universally agreed upon to be effective. The end of the chapter discusses some commonly encountered and often touted ingredients that have less scientific support. Once you become familiar with the discussed ingredients, you will be able to shop with confidence knowing what each ingredient is meant to achieve and whether the products you are considering contain ingredients that can actually achieve the stated aim.
Chapter Three is a more in-depth discussion of a daily skin care routine. This chapter includes the order to use products, what ingredients work best alone, what ingredients work best when combined, and how long to wait between applications.
Chapter Four is called Cult Favorites and Other Great Products. This chapter contains lists of cleansers, serums, moisturizers and sun protection. Of course, there are tons of great products available today and this chapter lists only a few in each category. Cult favorites are the products mentioned again and again on websites, podcasts, in magazines, and by celebrities. Other great products are less beloved but are often very effective.
Chapter Five is all about dupes. A "dupe" (short for duplicate) is a less expensive product with the same or similar active ingredients in the same or similar concentration as a more expensive product. It is extremely satisfying to find a product with the right active ingredients without the sticker shock price tag. Many cult favorites have less expensive, readily available dupes.
Chapter Six is where I confess all the dumb products I purchased before I knew what ingredients really work and some inadvertent gems I stumbled upon.
Chapter Seven asks what else, besides products, can be beneficial to the overall appearance of your skin. This chapter contains a discussion of nutraceuticals and vitamin supplements, acne and acne treatments, water, natural beauty products, gadgets and other available treatments.
The conclusion is followed by a list of references. The information I acquired while writing this book is readily available but takes a lot of time to organize, digest, and understand. After reading this book, you can continue (or begin) your self-care journey knowing that science is on your side.
Chapter One: The Short Answer
Skin needs nutrition, oxygen, and clean space to work. Oxygen molecules cannot penetrate the dermis so your routine will include only cleaning your skin and providing nutrition.
Morning
1. Wash your face with gentle cleanser such as Garden of Wisdom Cleansing Oil and either a clean wash cloth or sponge.
2. Completely dry your face then apply a vitamin C and E combined serum that comes in a dark bottle such as Timeless 20% Vitamin C+ E Ferulic Acid Serum.
3. Wait as long as possible but before you go outside, apply a broad spectrum SPF such as Jane Iredale Glow Time Full Coverage Mineral BB Cream.
4. To provide more sun protection in the form of a physical barrier apply a powder such as Neutrogena SkinClearing Mineral Powder with salicylic acid or begin your makeup application.
Evening
1. Wash your face with a stronger cleanser such as CeraVe Foaming Face Cleanser.
2. Apply retinol (vitamin A) such as Differin Gel.
3. Wait as long as possible and apply a serum with hyaluronic acid and matrixyl peptide such as Hylamide Sub-Q Anti Age.
4. If your skin still feels dry, apply a humectant oil such as rose hip oil or marula oil.
Once per week, after washing your face, use an exfoliant such as Pixie Glow Tonic (5% glycolic acid). Ideally you should let it work for several minutes (or even overnight) before applying any other products.
Chapter Two: Effective Ingredients
The objective for anti-aging skin care products is to increase the presence of collagen, elastin, ceramides and keratin, all of which contribute to skin’s firmness and structural integrity.
Collagen is the main structural protein found in skin and it provides rigidity.
Elastin is the component of the skin that gives it flexibility and allows it to snap back.
Ceramides are the fat based (lipid) chemicals that bind skin together on the topmost layer of your skin (the stratum corneum).
Keratin is tough protein made of amino acids, carbohydrates, and fatty acids that provides flexibility and protection.
If topical applicatio
n of collagen, elastin, ceramides, and keratin increased the amount of these components in your skin cells, skin care would be a breeze. Unfortunately, for the most part, these molecules are ineffective as a topical ingredient because they are too large to penetrate the outer layers of the skin.
Cosmeceuticals promise to fight aging with brilliant lab discoveries of new ingredients and delivery mechanisms. Unfortunately, most ingredients do not penetrate the skin very well. Fatty lipids, smaller sized molecules (nanoparticles) and ingredients suspended in silica shells have the best chance. It is most likely that the ingredients in many of our products simply sit on top of our skin until we wash them off.
The ingredients discussed below, when presented in the proper form, are able to penetrate the dermis and improve skin condition.
Vitamin A
Topically applied, vitamin A can partially reverse structural changes to the skin caused by sun damage and aging. Vitamin A enhances the production of collagen, smooths skin by communicating with the genes involved in epidermal cell turn over, and acts as an antioxidant.
The active form of vitamin A is called retinoic acid. Prescription vitamin A products contain retinoic acid in the form of either tretinoin or synthetic tretinoin (adapalene and tazarotene). Synthetic tretinoin is not as successful as true tretinoin in reversing wrinkles. With adapalene, for example, the acid only binds to 1 out of 3 potential skin receptors. The advantage to this is that the synthetic products have less side effects such as irritation and redness. The disadvantage is less wrinkle reversal.
There are a variety of vitamin A products that contain retinoic acid.
Differin Gel (adapalene). This product is now available over the counter. The gel allows for increased absorption and less light sensitivity. This product is an excellent acne treatment.
Retin A (tretinoin). Retin A has the most research-based support for its acne and wrinkle reducing abilities. It is available only by prescription. Some users find it too irritating.
Renova (tretinoin). Renova also contains true tretinoin in an emollient cream. It is available only by prescription.
Tazorac cream (tazarotene). Use this cream to treat psoriasis.
If you don’t have a prescription for vitamin A you can buy a product with retinol (rather than with retinoic acid). Retinol is the name for the entire vitamin A molecule. Your skin will incorporate the retinol and convert it into retinoic acid. The conversion process weakens the active ingredients so a retinoid product with .5% active ingredient is comparable with a dose of .05% retinoic acid product.
In cosmetics, the percentage of retinol, the delivery system, packaging and other ingredients present are all important. Retinoids are air and light sensitive. It is best to purchase a product packaged in a tube or a dark pump rather than a clear bottle.
There are several types of retinol found in cosmetic products. These include retinyl acetate, retinyl linoleate, retinyl propionate (a retinol ester), retinyl retinoate (possibly the most effective form of retinol), retinyl palmitate (the least effective form of retinol, useful for sensitive skin).
Vitamin B
Topically applied B vitamins also enhance skin structure. In skin care products, the most often used vitamin B is niacinamide, a derivate of vitamin B3. Niacinamide can prevent water loss, supports collagen formation, can stimulate the skin’s production of ceramides, and can increase keratin in the epidermis.
Using a product with niacinamide will reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Niacinamide also has exfoliating properties, similar to the alpha-hydroxy acids (discussed below). Niacinamide can lighten skin.
Look for a product with a concentration of 5% and use it for twelve weeks to demonstrate effectiveness. Niacinamide and N-acetyle glucosamine are usually combined into a complex. They also work well to hydrate the skin.
Another, although less popular vitamin B, is pantothenic acid, vitamin B5. B5 helps skin retain moisture by acting as a lubricant.
Vitamin C
Vitamin C is a proven stimulant for the production of collagen and can thicken skin. It is also an antioxidant.
Water soluble vitamin C is called L-ascorbic acid. Some scientists favor the fat-soluble form of vitamin C which can penetrate the skin on its own. Fat soluble vitamin C is known as vitamin C ester (an ester is a chemical compound that combines an acid and an alcohol). Ascorbyl palmitate is the best known vitamin C ester. It is made by combining L-ascorbic acid with palm oil. Products containing vitamin C esters should get better penetration and absorption. Vitamin C esters have a neutral pH and are nonirritating and non-stinging. Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is a slow release vitamin C ester.
Vitamin C breaks down when exposed to air and oxygen. Only buy vitamin C packaged in a dark bottle. An airless pump bottle is best. In fact, oxidized vitamin C can actually cause free-radical formation (free radicals are toxic oxygen molecules that lead to cell degeneration). Once opened, vitamin C products will lose effectiveness after six months.
Vitamin E
Vitamin E is stored in skin cell membranes and makes them smooth and supple. Vitamin E promotes normal keratinization (the turnover of dead skin cells). Vitamin E reduces inflammation and helps wounds heal. There is only so much vitamin E that the cell membranes can take in before they become saturated. At that point, the rest just goes to waste.
Vitamin E is commonly listed in ingredients as tocotrienol, tocopherol, alpha-tocopherol and tocopherol acetate. Tocotrienol is better at preventing free radical damage than traditional vitamin E (alpha-tocopherol).
Exfoliating Acids
Exfoliating acids encourage your skin to shed dead skin cells and can also fight wrinkles. You can also shed dead skin cells as effectively with a scrub, but you won’t get the anti-wrinkle effect unless you use an acid which can penetrate beyond the surface of the skin.
Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) are the go-to exfoliating acid. These acids will loosen the outermost layer of dead skin cells, help increase cell turnover, unclog pores, and increase the absorption of moisturizers. AHAs do not cut through oil so they are not the product to use if you have oily skin (see BHAs below).
There are five major types of AHAs: glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, citric acid and tartaric acid. Glycolic acid and lactic acid are the most popular and have the most accumulated scientific research confirming their effectiveness. Glycolic acid can improve the appearance of skin, increase collagen production, and improve pigmentation. Citric acid can slough off brown spots and dull skin. Lactic acid is the mildest and is also hydrating. There are hundreds of published studies on the effectiveness of glycolic and lactic acid in increasing cell turnover.
Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs) are the oil soluble cousin of AHAs. The main BHA is salicylic acid. Salicylic acid binds to keratin in the skin and helps to soften it. Choose salicylic acid if you have acne prone skin. Unlike AHAs, salicylic acid is oil soluble and is able to penetrate the oil in the pores and exfoliate the built-up skin cells inside the oil glands. It also has anti-inflammatory properties.
A third option are polyhydroxy acids which are similar chemically to AHAs but have a larger molecular structure which limits penetration and therefore can be less irritating.
When choosing an exfoliating acid the two considerations are concentration and pH. AHAs work best in a concentration between 5-8% with a pH of 3 to 4. BHA works best in a 1-2% concentration also in a pH of 3 to 4. A product with 10% acid will sting and burn. If the pH is less than 3.5, the product will likely irritate your skin. It is hard to know the pH of a product unless you contact the manufacturer but the better companies will list the pH on the product page.
According to The Age Fix (see reference guide), you do not need to buy a product to exfoliate with lactic acid. All you need is a wash cloth soaked in plain whole milk, and if you wish you can add apple juice. Leave the milk on your skin for two to four minutes. This will give you a light chemical peel with two bonuses: the fatty proteins in the milk are moisturizing and milk has anti-infla
mmatory properties.
Moisturizers
There are two ways that serums and lotions can moisturize your skin. Lotions provide an occlusive barrier that prevents the moisture already in your skin from evaporating. Ingredients that perform this function include petroleum jelly, mineral oil, and silicones. Lotions can also attract moisture to you skin by including an ingredient that has an affinity for water. These ingredients are called humectants and they bind water to the surface of your skin. Glycerin, sorbitol, and hyaluronic acid are the most common humectants. Hyaluronic acid is the humectant mentioned most often on packaging.
Like collagen and ceramides, hyaluronic acid is natural component of skin tissue. Synthetic forms of hyaluronic acid are an excellent skin care ingredient. Hyaluronic acid boosts cell moisture content and has cell communicating abilities. It can improve the firmness of the skin and its overall tone. Hyaluronic acid also acts as an antioxidant. The salt form of hyaluronic acid, sodium hyaluronate, may better penetrate the skin better than the non-salt form.
Another powerful moisturizer used in many products is dimethicone. Dimethicone is a type of silicone that can immediately plump out fine lines.
Facial moisturizers should be lightweight, non-comedogenic (not leading to blocked pores that cause acne) and wrinkle reducing.
Your hands and your face have different cosmetic needs because the skin on your hands is much thicker and is washed more often. Hand lotions should be heavy barrier creams that protect.
Oils
Plant and mineral oils are helpful for boosting skin moisture but do not “repair” your skin. Oils contain Omega 3 and Omega 6. These essential fatty acids (EFAs) can act as antioxidants and have anti-inflammatory properties. Oils degrade quickly so topical application usually leads to more free radicals attacking your skin. Despite their popularity, there is little direct data to prove that face oils are anti-aging or help with scars, stretch marks, and skin lightening.
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