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Milk Page 40

by Anne Mendelson


  Kremezi, Aglaia. The Foods of Greece. New York: Stewart, Tabori & Chang, 1993.

  Lambert, Paula. The Cheese Lover’s Companion & Guide. New York: Simon & Schuster, 2000.

  Lang, George. The Cuisine of Hungary. New York: Atheneum, 1971.

  Maier-Bruck, Franz. Das Grosse Sacher Kochbuch: Die österreichische Küche. Munich: Schuler Verlagsgesellschaft, 1975.

  ———. Vom Essen auf dem Lande: Das grosse Buch der österreichischen Bauernküche und Hausmannskost. Vienna: Kremayr und Scheriau, 1981.

  Ozan, Özcan. The Sultan’s Kitchen: A Turkish Cookbook. Boston: Periplus Editions, 1998.

  Roden, Claudia. A Book of Middle Eastern Food. New York: Random House/Vintage Books, 1974.

  Rose, Peter G., trans. and ed. The Sensible Cook (De Verstandige Kock): Dutch Foodways in the Old and the New World. Syracuse, N.Y.: Syracuse University Press, 1989.

  Saberi, Helen. Afghan Food and Cookery (Noshe Djan). New York: Hippocrene Books, 2000.

  Saint-Ange, E. La Cuisine de Madame Saint-Ange: recettes et méthodes de la bonne cuisine française. Paris: Librairie Larousse, 1982.

  Scharfenberg, Horst. Die deutsche Küche. Bern, Switzerland: Hallwag AG Bern, 1980.

  Shaida, Margaret. The Legendary Cuisine of Persia. New York: Interlink Books, 2002.

  Sheraton, Mimi. From My Mother’s Kitchen: Recipes and Reminiscences, rev. edition. New York: HarperCollins, 1991.

  Shroff, Veema, and Vanmala Desai. 100 Easy-to-Make Gujarati Dishes, 7th edition. New Delhi: Vikas Publishing/Tarang Paperbacks, 1990.

  Strybel, Robert, and Maria Strybel. Polish Heritage Cookery. New York: Hippocrene Books, 1993.

  Uvezian, Sonia. The Book of Yogurt: An International Collection of Recipes. Hopewell, N.J.: Ecco Press, 1999.

  ———. Recipes and Remembrances: From an Eastern Mediterranean Kitchen, 2nd edition. Northbrook, Ill.: Siamanto Press, 2001.

  von Bremzen, Anya, and John Welchman. Please to the Table: The Russian Cookbook. New York: Workman Publishing, 1990.

  Wolfert, Paula. The Cooking of the Eastern Mediterranean. New York: HarperCollins, 1994.

  ———. Mediterranean Grains and Greens. New York: HarperCollins, 1998.

  INTERNET SOURCES

  A great deal of information is now available online along with even greater amounts of misinformation, politicking, and rumormongering. Some sites that may be of interest to readers of this book:

  http://www.aphis.usda.gov/vs/ceah/ncahs/nahms/dairy/ Web site of the USDA animal health monitoring and surveillance division.

  http://classes.ansci.uiuc.edu/ansc438/ Online review and syllabus of Professor Walter L. Hurley’s class in lactation biology, Department of Animal Sciences, University of Illinois at Urbana.

  http://www.foodsci.uoguelph.ca/dairyedu/home.html Wide-ranging source on dairy science and technology, maintained by the dairy science department of the University of Guelph, Ontario.

  http://webexhibits.org/butter/ Extremely diverse and entertaining (if not always factually reliable) site dedicated to butter and its historical/culinary/cultural fortunes.

  INDEX

  (Page references in italic refer to illustrations. Page references in boldface refer to recipes.)

  abomasum, 2.1, 9.1

  acid coagulation, 4.1, 5.1

  acidophilus milk

  acidosis, ruminal

  Acton, Eliza

  Africa, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 6.1, 6.2, 8.1

  agglutinins, 5.1, 5.2, 5.3

  Agriculture Department, U.S. (USDA), 2.1, 2.2, 8.1

  ahimsa

  Ají de Leche (Venezuelan Milk-Chile Infusion), 5.1

  alcoholic fermentation, 7.1, 7.2, 7.3, 9.1

  Alderney cows, 2.1, 2.2, 2.3

  Alphabet for Gourmets, An (Fisher)

  American Heart Association, 2.1, 2.2

  American Woman’s Home, The (Beecher and Stowe)

  antibiotics

  appetizers and first courses:

  Blueberry Soup, Cold, 7.1

  Herring with Sour Cream Sauce, 7.1

  see also dips and spreads

  Apple-Onion Cream Soup, 5.1

  aseptic packaging

  asses, 1.1, 1.2

  aurochsen, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3

  Austria, Austrian cuisine

  Buttermilk-Caraway Soup, 7.1

  Chicken Paprikás, 7.1

  Liptauer cheese, 9.1

  Ayran (Turkish-Style Yogurt Drink), 6.1

  Ayrshire cows

  Babcock test

  bacteria, 2.1, 8.1

  dairying practices and

  health claims for yogurt and, 6.1, 6.2

  pasteurization and, 2.1, 3.1, 3.2, 3.3, 6.1

  bacteria, lactic-acid, prf.1, 1.1, 1.2, 2.1, 2.2, 4.1

  cultured milk or cream and

  cultured or ripened butter and

  fresh cheeses and, 9.1, 9.2, 9.3

  mesophilic, 1.1, 6.1, 7.1, 9.1

  thermophilic, 1.1, 6.1, 7.1, 9.1

  yogurt and, 1.1, 1.2, 6.1, 6.2

  see also starter bacteria

  bacteria, psychrophilic

  Balkans, Balkan cuisines, 1.1, 6.1, 9.1

  Milk Toast with Feta, 5.1

  Tarator (Cold Yogurt Soup with Cucumbers and Walnuts), 6.1

  banana(s):

  Fried, with Crema, 7.1

  Raita, 6.1

  Barley Pilaf with Whey, 9.1

  Batidos (Latin American Milkshakes), 5.1, 5.2

  Batra, Neelam

  béarnaise sauce

  béchamel grasse

  Béchamel Maigre, 5.1

  Beecher, Catharine

  Beef Stroganoff, 7.1

  Beeton, Isabella, 5.1, 9.1

  Beet Soup, Cold, Polish (Chłodnik Litewski), 7.1

  Belgian Stampers or taatjespap, 7.1

  Berry Cookbook, The (Fried)

  Beurre Blanc/Beurre Rouge, 8.1

  Beurre Manié, 8.1

  beurre meunière

  Beurre Noir/Beurre Noisette (“Black Butter”/“Brown Butter”), 8.1

  beverages:

  Ayran or Doogh (Turkish- or Persian-Style Yogurt Drink), 6.1

  Batidos (Latin American Milkshakes), 5.1, 5.2

  buttermilk as

  Chocolate Malted, 5.1

  condensed and evaporated milk in

  Hoppelpoppel: Eggnog with a Difference, 5.1

  Hot Chocolate, 5.1

  Iced Coffee, Thai-Style, 5.1

  Milk Punch, 5.1

  yogurt-based, about

  see also lassi

  blancmange

  Blueberry Soup, Cold, 7.1

  Bonne Cuisine de Madame Saint-Ange, La, 5.1, 5.2

  Booke of Cookerie, A (Murrell)

  Book of New New England Cookery, The (J. and E. Jones), 7.1

  Borden, Gail

  “Borek Meets Kugel”, 9.1

  Boston Cooking–School Cookbook, The (Farmer), 5.1, 8.1

  Bovine and Buffalo Belt, 1.1, 1.2, 6.1

  bovines

  bovine somatotropin (BST), bovine growth hormone (BGH), 2.1, 3.1

  breeding dairy cows, 2.1, 2.2, 3.1, 3.2

  breeding schedules, 1.1, 1.2, 4.1

  Bremzen, Anya von

  brined (pickled) cheeses, prf.1, 1.1, 1.2, 9.1, 9.2, 9.3, 9.4

  brine-pickled vegetables and fruits

  British cuisine, see Great Britain, English cuisine

  Brown, Helen Evans

  Brown Swiss cows

  Bryan, Lettice

  buffaloes, see water buffaloes and water buffaloes’ milk

  Bulgaria, Bulgarian cuisine, 1.1, 9.1

  health claims for yogurt in

  Tarator (Cold Yogurt Soup with Cucumbers and Walnuts), 6.1

  “Bulgarian buttermilk”

  Bulgur Pilaf with Whey, 9.1

  butter, prf.1, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 2.1, 2.2, 2.3, 2.4, 4.1, 5.1, 8.1, 8.2

  Beurre Blanc/Beurre Rouge, 8.1

  Beurre Manié, 8.1

  Beurre Noir/Beurre Noisette (“Black Butter”/“B
rown Butter”), 8.1

  buying and handling

  clarified, see clarified butter

  color of

  cultured

  Flavored or Compound, 8.1

  flavor nuances in

  Home-Churned: Ripened-Cream Type, 8.1

  Home-Churned: Sweet-Cream Type, 8.1

  milkfat in, 8.1, 8.2

  in pastry-making, 8.1, 8.2

  perishability of

  salted vs. unsalted

  smells and tastes of other foods absorbed by, 8.1, 8.2

  transition between solid and melted state of, 8.1, 8.2, 8.3, 8.4, 8.5

  whipped

  yogurt as starting point of

  butter-and-egg custards

  “Buttered Eggs” (Skillet-Custard Eggs), 8.1

  Hollandaise Sauce, 8.1, 8.2

  Lemon Curd, 8.1

  Lime Curd, 8.1

  buttermilk (cultured), 4.1, 4.2, 7.1, 7.2

  “Bulgarian”

  as culinary resource

  as drink, 7.1, 7.2

  history of

  Homemade, 7.1

  Indian vs. American, 6.1, 7.1

  buttermilk (true), 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 4.1, 7.1, 8.1, 8.2, 8.3, 8.4, 8.5

  Fresh, 8.1

  Buttermilk Dessert, Dutch (Hangop), 7.1

  Buttermilk Pie, Southern, 7.1

  Buttermilk Potatoes, 7.1

  Buttermilk Salad Dressing, 7.1

  Buttermilk “Salad,” Mennonite, 7.1

  buttermilk soups

  Blueberry, Cold, 7.1

  Caraway, 7.1

  Cherry, Cold, 7.1

  Cold Savory (Michael Field’s “Chłodnık”), 7.1

  North Indian Thick (Kadhi or Karhi), 7.1

  South Indian (Moru Kozhambu), 7.1

  Butter Tarts, Canadian, 8.1

  Cacık, 6.1

  Cajeta Mexicana (Mexican Dulce de Leche), 5.1

  Cake, Yogurt-Semolina, with Lemon Syrup (Revani), 6.1

  calcium, 2.1, 4.1

  camels and camels’ milk, 1.1, 1.2, 7.1, 9.1

  Canadian Butter Tarts, 8.1

  canned milk, 5.1, 5.2, 5.3, 5.4

  Dulce de Leche with, 5.1

  caprines

  see also goats and goats’ milk; sheep and sheep’s milk

  Carasso, Isaac

  cardboard milk containers

  Carême, Marie-Antoine

  casein, 2.1, 4.1, 4.2, 4.3, 6.1, 6.2, 7.1, 9.1, 9.2, 9.3, 9.4, 9.5, 9.6

  centrifuging, 2.1, 2.2, 3.1, 3.2, 4.1, 5.1, 5.2, 5.3

  certification campaigns

  Cervelle de Canut, 9.1

  Champ, Irish (Mashed Potatoes with Milk and Greens), 5.1

  cheeses, 2.1, 3.1

  aged or ripened, prf.1, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 2.1

  cheeses (fresh), prf.1, 1.1, 9.1

  brined (pickled), prf.1, 1.1, 1.2, 9.1, 9.2, 9.3, 9.4

  curd formation and, 1.1, 9.1

  getting organized for making

  Goats’-Milk, 9.1

  names for

  origins and history of, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, 1.7, 9.1, 9.2

  White: Kindergarten Version, 9.1

  White, with Cultures, 9.1

  White, with Cultures and Rennet, 9.1

  see also cream cheese; feta; specific recipes listed on this page

  Cherry Soup, Cold, 7.1

  chèvre, 9.1, 9.2

  chhenna, 1.1, 4.1, 5.1, 9.1, 9.2, 9.3

  Homemade, 5.1

  Saag Panir or Palak Panir, 5.1

  Vegetarian Malai Kofta, 5.1

  chicken:

  Paprikás, or Paprikahuhn, 7.1

  Salad à la Tandoor, 6.1

  Chile-Milk Infusion, Venezuelan (Ají de Leche), 5.1

  China, Chinese cuisine, 5.1, 6.1, 6.2, 7.1

  “Fried Milk”, 5.1

  “Chłodnik,” Michael Field’s (Cold Savory Buttermilk Soup), 7.1

  Chłodnik Litewski (Polish Cold Beet Soup), 7.1

  chocolate:

  Hot, 5.1

  Malted, 5.1

  Pudding, 5.1

  cholesterol

  chowders:

  Clam, New Englandish, 5.1

  Corn, Spiced, 5.1

  Chutney, Walnut-Yogurt, 6.1

  Çilbir (Turkish Poached Eggs in Yogurt Sauce), 6.1

  clabber or clabbered milk, 2.1, 9.1

  Claiborne, Craig

  Clam Chowder, New Englandish, 5.1

  clarified butter, 8.1, 8.2, 8.3, 8.4

  Ethiopian Spiced (Nit’r Kibeh), 8.1, 8.2

  European-Style, 8.1

  Indian (Ghee), 1.1, 1.2, 8.1, 8.2

  clotted cream, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 5.1

  Homemade, 5.1

  coeur à la crème

  Coffee, Iced, Thai-Style, 5.1

  colostrum

  concentrate (feed)

  condensed milk, 5.1, 5.2

  Dulce de Leche with, 5.1

  condiments:

  Banana Raita, 6.1

  Butters, Flavored or Compound, 8.1

  Cacık and Relatives, 6.1

  Clotted Cream, 5.1

  Cucumber Pachadi, 6.1

  Cucumber Raita, 6.1

  Walnut-Yogurt Chutney, 6.1

  see also dips and spreads; sauces

  Continental Flavor, The (Hazelton)

  Cooking à la Ritz (Diat)

  Cooper, James Fenimore

  corn:

  Chowder, Spiced, 5.1

  “Kees” (Gujarati Stovetop Corn Pudding), 5.1

  cottage cheese, 9.1, 9.2, 9.3

  cows and cows’ milk, prf.1, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, 1.7, 4.1, 5.1, 8.1, 9.1

  antibiotic treatment of

  breeding of, 2.1, 2.2, 3.1, 3.2

  domestication of

  feeding of, 2.1, 2.2, 3.1, 3.2

  in Indian subcontinent, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5

  lactation in, 1.1, 4.1

  in Northeastern Cow Belt, 1.1, 1.2

  in Northwestern Cow Belt, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3

  zebu-type, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3

  see also milk (fresh unsoured)

  crabmeat, in Chinese “Fried Milk”, 5.1

  cream (fresh), prf.1, 1.1, 1.2, 2.1, 5.1, 5.2, 5.3

  beating into butter

  buying, 5.1, 5.2

  Clotted, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 5.1, 5.2

  historical ups and downs of

  label designations for

  separating from milk, 4.1, 4.2

  ultrapasteurized, 5.1, 5.2, 5.3

  see also cream soups; whipped cream; specific recipes listed on this page

  cream, cultured, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3

  see also sour cream

  cream cheese, 1.1, 9.1, 9.2, 9.3, 9.4

  Creamy, 9.1

  Light, 9.1

  as Liptauer base, 9.1

  Scallion Dip, 9.1

  Creamed Spinach, Madame Saint-Ange (Épinards à la Crème), 5.1

  creamlines, cream layers, 2.1, 2.2, 4.1, 5.1

  cream soups

  Apple-Onion, 5.1

  Clam Chowder, New Englandish, 5.1

  Corn Chowder, Spiced, 5.1

  Tomato, 5.1

  Vichyssoise, 5.1

  crema, 7.1, 7.2

  Fried Bananas with, 7.1

  Crème Anglaise (Stirred Custard), 5.1

  crème fraîche, 7.1, 7.2

  as cold sauce and dip

  Homemade Sour Cream, 7.1

  Cremets d’Angers, 5.1

  cucumber(s):

  Cacık and Relatives, 6.1

  Cold Yogurt Soup with Walnuts and (Tarator), 6.1

  Pachadi, 6.1

  Radish Sour Cream Sauce, 7.1

  Raita, 6.1

  Cuisine of Hungary, The (Lang)

  cultured butter

  cultured milk and cream

  as culinary resource

  exotic kinds of

  history of, 7.1, 7.2

  survey of

  see also buttermilk (cultured); sour cream; sour milk; yogurt; specific recipes listed on this page

  curd cheese
/>   “Curd Rice”, 6.1

  curds, formation of, 1.1, 4.1, 5.1, 9.1

  Curnonsky

  custard:

  -Based Vanilla Ice Cream, 5.1

  Southern Buttermilk Pie, 7.1

  Stirred (Crème Anglaise), 5.1

  see also butter-and-egg custards

  dairy chemistry, home experiments in

  Dairy Industry in America, The (Selitzer)

  Dannon

  Davaasambuu, Ganmaa

  David, Elizabeth, 5.1, 5.2, 8.1

  Desai, Vanmala

  desserts:

  Bananas, Fried, with Crema, 7.1

  Blueberry Soup, Cold, 7.1

  Buttermilk Pie, Southern, 7.1

  Butter Tarts, Canadian, 8.1

  Cajeta Mexicana (Mexican Dulce de Leche), 5.1

  Chocolate Pudding, 5.1

  Crème Anglaise (Stirred Custard), 5.1

  Cremets d’Angers, 5.1

  Dulce de Leche with Canned Condensed Milk, 5.1

  Hangop (Dutch Buttermilk Dessert), 7.1

  Junket, Non-Nursery, 9.1

  Lemon Curd, 8.1

  Lemon Sponge Pudding, 5.1

  Lemon Tart, 8.1

  Lime Curd, 8.1

  Panna Cotta and Relatives, 5.1

  Paskha (Russian Easter Dessert), 9.1

  Revani (Yogurt-Semolina Cake with Lemon Syrup), 6.1

  Rice Pudding, 5.1

  Shrikhand (Saffron-Scented Yogurt Dessert), 6.1

  sour cream or crème fraîche as sauce for

  Vanilla Ice Cream, Custard-Based, 5.1

  Vanilla Ice Cream, Philadelphia-Style, 5.1

  deutsche Küche, Die (Scharfenberg)

  De Voe, Thomas F.

  Diamond, Jared

  Diat, Louis, 5.1, 5.2

  dips and spreads:

  Cacık and Relatives, 6.1

  Cervelle de Canut, 9.1

  Cream Cheese–Scallion Dip, 9.1

  Liptauer Cheese, 9.1

  Smoked Whitefish Salad, 7.1

  Tyrokafteri or Htipiti (Whipped Feta-Cheese Spread), 9.1

  Walnut-Yogurt Chutney, 6.1

  Yogurt “Cheese” and “Cheese” Balls, 6.1

  Diverse Sources Belt, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 6.1, 6.2, 9.1, 9.2, 9.3, 9.4, 9.5

  distinctive flavors, preference for

  earliest milk-eating experiments in, 1.1, 1.2

  milch animals in

  origins of herding and milking in

  Dodd, George

  domestication of animals

  Doogh (Persian-Style Yogurt Drink), 6.1

  dressings

  Buttermilk Salad, 7.1

  Spicy-Milky Peanut Sauce, 5.1

  dried milk

  dulce de leche

  with Canned Condensed Milk, 5.1

  Mexican (Cajeta Mexicana), 5.1

  Durham or milking Shorthorn cows

  Dutch cuisine, See Netherlands, Dutch cuisine

  Easter Dessert, Russian (Paskha), 9.1

  Eggnog with a Difference (Hoppelpoppel), 5.1

 

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