The Reality:
The “textbook” manifestation of separation anxiety in an animal is signs of distress only in the absence of their humans. You will find endless resources online about separation anxiety in dogs, but as far as cats are concerned, there’s still a scarcity of information. Part of the reason is because of the misconception (still even in the medical community) that cats are socially aloof; since they don’t really have a connection to humans in the first place, how could they have separation anxiety?
Adding to the challenge is the fact that cats are rarely destructive in the ways that dogs are; you usually won’t come home to chewed up window sills or broken doors, meaning a cat’s cries for help are often left unanswered. That said, some signs of separation anxiety are similar for cats and dogs: vocalization, predeparture distress, overgrooming, and continually following their human from room to room. In cats, you often see behaviors like marking items that are heavily scented, like you.
Although there are genetic predispositions toward this condition (Siamese and others considered Oriental breeds are more prone), it is possible that early weaning or other experiences may influence how overattached a cat might be. The thing that universally connects the separation anxiety experience, whether you’re talking about a cat or a dog, is a lack of confidence.
The Steps:
Journaling: Documenting your cat’s behavior and your interactions with your cat is a great place to start. For separation anxiety in particular, it will be important to note how long you are gone before she starts to exhibit symptoms. Also, remote viewing cams are another great opportunity to gather info and potential symptoms in regard to what your cat is doing when you’re not home, since many separation-related behaviors happen only in your absence.
HCKE: Make sure to have an HCKE session every morning. I know making time for this can be a challenge but even a short session will help dramatically. The advantages are twofold: (a) we know the Mojo-inspiring benefits of play for a cat lacking confidence is a gimme in this case, and (b) the feeding part that happens right before you leave makes it so she’s occupied while you exit stage left. That said, don’t forget the next step . . .
Change It Up: Avoid predictable cues that you are leaving. Instead, switch up your routine. Right now, your cat knows that you putting on your coat = leaving. The jingle of your keys = leaving. You putting on the radio every day before you leave = leaving. So . . . pick your keys up when you wake up, then stick around, or go outside for a moment, then come back inside.
No Big Deal: The hardest thing for my clients to do is take my advice and just walk out of the house. Don’t even say good-bye, just leave. Go back to the section on your Challenge Line (page 150). The habit of soothing your cats before you leave the house feeds into their anxiety—they don’t catch the English, they catch the tone of guilt and dread, and now they are expecting the sky to fall. Now you have inadvertently encouraged separation anxiety because of your fear that they will have separation anxiety.
Cat TV: Enrich their world while you’re gone. Move a cat tree next to a window so your cat can look out, or add a bird feeder and all the trimmings right outside the window to keep your cat engaged during the day. Heated beds can be helpful for some clingy cats. Last, don’t forget to pay attention to the Sundial!
Other Alternatives: If you can afford it or have a friend who can help, you might want a cat sitter to check in on your cat at the midway point of your absence, perhaps a lunchtime check-in while you are at work. There are also numerous pharmaceutical approaches that have proven to be effective to help treat separation anxiety, and if your cat’s symptoms are persistent and severe, it is an option well worth considering.
The Mojo Moment:
In this case, you come home from an especially long workday, and your cat is sleeping in the last remaining sliver of sun on her window perch. She sleepily notices your arrival and gives you a “Hey, how ya doin’?” nod. As you check mail and head into the kitchen, she stretches and yawns, jumps down, and walks over to get a pet or two and wait for dinner to be served. You feel like you were missed, but you don’t feel guilty about your absence. And all, in this moment, is Mojo.
CAT DADDY RECIPE NO. 9—
GETTING CHEWED OUT
The Problem:
Your cat is eating basically anything that’s not nailed down. He’s chewing on corners of books, pencils, plastic, paper towels, chair corners, and cabinets, and turning your favorite sweaters and blankets into Swiss cheese. You’re beginning to think that just because he might be bored, or might want attention (or might just be hell-bent on annoying you), he’s going to destroy everything you hold dear.
The Reality:
What to many cat guardians looks like a maddening effort on their cat’s part to annoy is a compulsive condition called Pica. The definition of Pica is the ingesting of non-food items, and if you thought the behavior itself was frustrating, the diagnosis is even more so. Whether it is a condition that has a genetic component; is present, in part, because of inadequate weaning or early social experiences; is a response to stress; or is a mix of all of the above, Pica is still a huge question mark in the scientific community. We know that some breeds (namely Siamese, and other closely related breeds) are more prone to wool-sucking behavior. The debate, however, is secondary to this: Pica is to a large degree mysterious; there is no known cure, and it can be very dangerous. Ingesting fabrics or other objects can be a life-or-death situation—and involve an expensive and risky surgery if materials become lodged or twisted somewhere in the digestive tract. Despite the lack of a cure, though, we must do our damnedest to manage it.
Cat Nerd Corner
Paper or Plastic?
A 2016 study found a relationship between cats with Pica and frequent vomiting. Pica cats tended to ingest shoelaces, thread, plastic, and fabric, while all other cats seemed to enjoy chewing on plastic and paper the most. Almost 70 percent of the control (non-Pica) cats in the study chewed on nonfood items (although they didn’t ingest them). Meaning: chewing is common in ALL cats, not just cats with Pica.
The Steps:
Do Your Cat Detective Work:When does the behavior happen? Is it when you are present or gone?
Look at chewing locations and mark them on your Mojo Map. These might be areas of high stress or frustration.
What are the preferred targets? Certain objects, such as photo emulsion or plastic bags, might be attractive to your cat because they are rendered with animal fat.
What textures or types of objects does your cat try to chew or ingest?
Protect Your Pica Cat: Always start with a thorough vet check including blood work and make sure a dental or vitamin-deficiency or digestion problem aren’t contributing. Also, the self-soothing behavior that your cat is demonstrating can be because she is in consistent pain or discomfort. Finally, your vet may prescribe mood-stabilizing medication. Some medications have been moderately effective in reducing Pica.
Commit to Daily HCKE ritualized around food and energetic spikes.
Catify the areas you highlighted on your Mojo Map. If an area presents stress, tried-and-true Catification techniques can help neutralize that stress.
Encourage Acceptable Chewing Options: Try high-quality, high-protein treats and cat grasses, placing them in areas identified as hot spots on your Mojo Map. Crunching on something else may be helpful. Also, dog toys tend to be more durable than cat toys—hard rubber puzzle toys, which can be stuffed with some type of food that motivates your cat will keep his mouth busy on something that can’t kill him. Of course, also consider the dangers of toys with hanging doodads made out of string, ribbon, or anything that can get wrapped around intestines, etc., is obviously a trip to the ER waiting to happen.
Pica-Proofing: Put stuff away—you have to cat-proof if you have a chewer!
Reward the Silence: Sometimes humans forget to attend to the cat when they are doing anythi
ng besides chewing. Go back to chapter 9 and think about ways you can give your cat attention without reinforcing the chewing behavior.
The Mojo Moment in this case is really about having done due diligence and knowing everything you can about Pica, so that nothing takes you by surprise. Going through the steps has helped keep the things in your home safe from your cat, and you’ve incorporated all of the steps to the point that you’ve seen a decrease in chewing and an increase in your cat’s confidence. For Pica guardians, the Mojo Moment is looking up from your book as you unwind, and seeing your cat sitting in between a duvet and a puzzle ball and choosing the latter. Well done!
Cord Chewing: A Special Case
Cord chewing can be dangerous because your cat could get electrocuted or start a fire. Get cord wraps—make sure they are solid, really hard plastic. Motion-sensitive air canisters can help; every time your cat approaches these computer cords, the air blast happens and tells him, “There’s no reason to keep going there.” But you need a “yes” for that “no,” so lead your cat to a destination with cat grass or other chewable treats.
Notes from the Chef
My personal approach to Pica is to take into consideration what we know and what we don’t. For instance, Pica, like many OCD-type behaviors, appears to contain a component of self-soothing mechanisms, like a human reaching for a cigarette or a drink, “stress eating,” or nail-biting. Of course, the well-balanced human would turn to exercise or meditation, but my experience is that we gravitate back toward quick and easy ways to bring down the fever of radical discomfort. In certain cats, chewing helps make the stress go away. Self-soothing behaviors start early in life—when kittens are still on the milk line—and tendencies toward Pica often appear when a cat is young. Of course, another component of obsessive behaviors is that they take on a life of their own—so while reducing stress is helpful, it’s not everything. Like I said, frustrating, for sure, but these steps have definitely provided some relief.
That said, where there is mystery, there is opportunity. There is also support somewhere in the Web-o-sphere. Due diligence and reaching out, taking what you learn here, and remembering that you know your cat better than anyone else—these are the ingredients for being an advocate for your cat. Established science will help us get a grip on conditions like Pica, but so will you. Whatever you do and whatever you learn, please pass it on; remember that there are so many other Pica households out there suffering the same frustrations—and potential losses—that you have.
CAT DADDY RECIPE NO. 10—
UNHAPPY TAILS TO YOU
The Problem:
Your cat hates his tail. He may hiss and growl at it or even attack it. Perhaps during these moments, he actually redirects that aggression onto you. Out of the blue, and multiple times a day, he just turns into a skin-spasming, growling, howling animal—he becomes someone you don’t recognize. He may even be ripping the hair off his tail until he bleeds. Maybe you’ve used the terms bipolar, unpredictable, “Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde,” or just scary to describe him. Either way, you feel horrible for him and scared for his—and your—safety.
The Reality:
This insidious—and largely mysterious—problem is called FHS (Feline Hyperesthesia Syndrome), sometimes referred to as “twitchy cat disease.” The back lightning, or skin rippling, is particularly pronounced, and you may see muscle spasms throughout cats’ bodies. Cats with FHS behave like a ghost is chasing them. They can be loving with you, and then it’s like a light switch is flicked, and they can, all of a sudden, turn and attack.
Hyperesthesia makes cats feel like their body is attacking them. They may even be experiencing hallucinations. These cats might enjoy some petting, but their sensitivity is usually off the charts. Sometimes we can link FHS to a previous injury, and it’s important to remember that the tail is an extension of the spine. It’s already incredibly sensitive. But here’s the deal. There is basically zero research on this. There may be multiple causes, including: genes, stress, anxiety, sensory processing issues, trauma, skin problems, neurological problems.
Basically, we don’t know the underlying cause(s) or how to fix FHS, but some cats do improve on a trial of painkillers or antiseizure medication. It’s the kind of thing that may require a lot of testing—X-rays, a visit to the neurologist—and lots of advocacy on your part.
The Steps:
Log Episodes: Put on your detective hat and chronicle every attack—you need baseline observations. Note the symptoms and triggers: Where and when do attacks happen? What was going on in the house at the time?
Vid for Vet: Take your cat to the vet and bring video so they can see what the behavior looks like. Discuss the right pharmaceutical assistance for your cat.
Control the Energy: Energy spikes can trigger episodes, so be aware of the activity in the household and manage triggers whenever possible (the Three Rs, etc.)
Encourage Relaxation: Make sure there are cocoons and other safe places to retreat.
Catification, Cat TV, and HCKE: Utilize some of the Total Cat Mojo staples to give your cat other things to think about besides his tail!
The Mojo Moment:
Hyperesthesia isn’t about a cure; it’s really about management. As with Pica, your Mojo Moment is one of peace in knowing what you’re dealing with. You’ve done the research and you’ve met others dealing with the same issue in online forums. But the moment arrives when your cat has realized that the tail, while still possibly slightly annoying, is not the enemy. Even if you’ve succeeded in reducing but not eliminating the attacks, each of these moments is a Mojo-fied one.
CAT DADDY RECIPE NO. 11—
THE OVERGROOMING SOLUTION
The Problem:
Your cat has taken her grooming regimen to a whole new level, and not in a good way. You notice that patches of fur are missing from her legs, or that she has a completely “naked belly,” all due to her incessant overgrooming.
The Reality:
It’s normal and important for cats to groom themselves, but some cats take it too far. Sometimes it starts with a flea allergy, a food sensitivity, or other skin condition. That licking that starts off as a way to relieve itching becomes habitual. In other cases, overgrooming could be a response to anxiety. For some cats, it can be a self-soothing behavior, like nail-biting in humans.
There are possible clues to the cause: A cat who is licking all over is usually itchy. A cat who is licking in one particular area is more likely to be experiencing pain. For example, some cats with painful bladders will lick their bellies raw.
The Steps:
Vet Time: Take your cat to the vet and rule out a dermatological or other medical problem. In some cases, cats who overgroom just need meds, plain and simple, to help support your other treatments.
Identify Stressors: Address any stressors in the environment, be it a threat from within (such as conflict between companion animals) or a threat from without (see “Barbarians at the Gate,” page 317). Self-soothing mechanisms like overgrooming wouldn’t be needed if the cat felt like she could deal with the stressors of everyday life.
Bump Up Your Catification and HCKE: Finding an interactive toy that your cat loves is key. Not only can you just drain energy out of the Energetic Balloon every day, which will make your cat a little less likely to stop and groom, but the proper toy can help lead your cat away from targeting her own body. Notice the giveaway signs that she is beginning to lick herself, and redirect her into a small moment of play. Many times that’s all it will take to end a grooming session before it begins.
Lock in the House Rhythm: Don’t forget about the Three Rs—any cat with anxiety will get security from routine.
Food! Another reason a cat will overgroom is due to an allergy. A systematic food allergy trial will absolutely help, but it’s a commitment. Starting with a limited-ingredient diet, and with a commitment from you AND your family and
friends not to sneak treats, an allergy trial has often led to amazing results.
The Mojo Moment:
This is an easy one, folks: your cat still has her fur; even if it’s thin, new growth, it’s a sign that a corner has been turned and you have gained control of a very tricky problem.
18
When Outside Cats Cause Trouble for Inside Cats
THERE ARE MOMENTS of twin surprise that happen all the time between my clients and me. One of those moments is when I inform them that, because of the patterns of urination I see around the perimeter of their home, there must be outdoor cats, maybe ferals, that are causing serious stress. A look of shock comes over them, either because they knew there was a colony nearby but didn’t know they had anything to do with the problem, or because they had no idea there were any cats in the neighborhood (which, most of the time, they’ll find out once I assign some Detectivism homework). My surprise hits because to me, it’s a Mojo basic, and I assume everyone knows that neighborhood cats can be territorial poison to indoor house cats. And then I think to myself, “I should write a book. . . .”
CAT DADDY RECIPE NO. 12—
BARBARIANS AT THE GATE
The Problem:
A neighborhood community cat or four has taken an interest in your home turf and is creating territorial anxiety for your cat. They could be feral or free roaming; it doesn’t matter. When this cat is around on the outside, bad things happen on the inside.
The Reality:
Imagine that neighborhood cats are sneaking into your house, eating your cat’s food, using his litterbox (or the wall around it), and walking out again. Considering all we know about Cat Mojo and the sanctity of territory, we know that would be pretty catastrophic for your cat. Truth is, there’s not much difference between that and cats circling the perimeter of your home. Cats don’t recognize walls as boundaries in the same way that humans do. As long as they can smell the neighborhood cats, and as long as they can see them, they’re just as much a present threat.
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