by Matt Kadey
EDAMAME-STUFFED RUTABAGA CUPS, page 108
RICE-VEGGIE BAKE WITH ALMOND CREAM SAUCE, page 110
RICE-VEGGIE BAKE WITH ALMOND CREAM SAUCE
Here’s a nice package of whole grains and vegetables that also works well for weekday lunches. Serves 4 V, G, F
Rice-Veggie Bake:
1/2 cup Wehani rice or other brown rice
1 cup water
1 tablespoon grapeseed or canola oil
1 shallot, finely diced
1 small red bell pepper, finely chopped
1/2 cup fresh or frozen green peas
1 teaspoon dried thyme
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon ground coriander
4 large eggs
1/4 cup unflavored almond milk or other milk
Sauce:
2 cups unflavored almond milk
1/2 cup low-sodium vegetable broth
1/3 cup whole almonds
2 green onions, white and green parts, thinly sliced
2 small crushed dried red chiles or
1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper juice of 1/2 lemon
For the Rice-Veggie Bake: Bring the rice and water to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low and simmer, covered, until tender and the water has been absorbed, about 30 minutes.
Preheat oven to 375°F. In a medium skillet, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the shallot, bell pepper, and peas, and cook until the vegetables are tender, about 4 minutes. Stir in the thyme, salt, and coriander, and cook 1 minute more. In a large bowl, lightly beat the eggs with the almond milk. Stir in the rice and the vegetable mixture. Divide the mixture among 10 medium muffin cups and bake until set, about 18 minutes.
For the Sauce: Combine all the sauce ingredients in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Bring to a simmer and cook until reduced by half, about 20 minutes. Carefully puree in a blender and serve over the rice cakes.
MASHED POTATO CUPS WITH CURRY SOUR CREAM
Kids and adults alike eat up this riff on an iconic side dish. If desired, gussy these up by adding diced ham or bacon. If avoiding gluten, use a gluten-free flour blend. You can omit the curry powder if you prefer to serve these with plain sour cream. Serves 6 V
2 pounds Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and diced
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/3 cup buttermilk or low-fat milk
1/4 cup whole wheat pastry flour
2 tablespoons chopped fresh sage
1 tablespoon grainy or Dijon mustard
2 large eggs, lightly beaten
1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon pepper
1/2 cup low-fat sour cream
1/2 teaspoon curry powder
Steam or boil the potatoes until very tender. Preheat the oven to 375°F. Transfer the potatoes to a large bowl and mash with the butter, buttermilk or milk, flour, sage, mustard, eggs, nutmeg, salt, and pepper. Make sure to leave the mixture slightly chunky. Divide the potato mixture among 12 medium muffin cups. Bake until set, about 25 minutes. Let cool for several minutes before unmolding. In a small bowl, stir together the sour cream and curry powder. Serve the mashed potato cups with the curry cream.
SAVORY SMOKED SALMON AND CHEESE MUFFINS
These savory muffins are ideal for a quick lunch fix. Similar to the other savory muffins in this chapter, these are best served warm. Try to use wild smoked salmon, which is a more sustainable option than farmed. Serves 12
1 1/2 cups whole wheat pastry flour or spelt flour
1/2 cup finely ground yellow cornmeal
1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
2 tablespoons finely chopped chives
2 tablespoons coconut palm sugar or other granulated sugar
1/2 teaspoon smoked paprika (optional)
1/2 teaspoon garlic powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 large eggs
1/2 cup low-fat milk
1/2 cup low-fat sour cream
1/4 cup melted coconut oil or other oil
1 red bell pepper, finely diced
1 cup shredded cheddar cheese, preferably sharp
2 ounces smoked wild salmon, chopped
Preheat the oven to 375°F. In a large bowl, stir together the flour, cornmeal, baking powder, chives, sugar, smoked paprika, if using, garlic powder, and salt. In a separate bowl, lightly beat the eggs and whisk in the milk, sour cream, and oil. Add the wet ingredients to the dry ingredients and stir gently to combine. Fold in the bell pepper, cheese, and smoked salmon. Divide the mixture among 12 medium muffin cups and bake until golden on top and an inserted toothpick comes out clean, about 20 minutes. Let cool several minutes before unmolding.
JALAPEÑO CHEESE ROLLS
These slightly spicy cheesy pizza rolls are a great option when you need lunch in a hurry. You can use store-bought pizza dough or make your own using my no-fail recipe (see page 71). Serves 4 V, F
10 ounces whole wheat pizza dough
1 (8-ounce) skinless, boneless chicken breast, cooked and finely diced or shredded
1/2 cup finely chopped roasted red pepper
1 medium jalapeño pepper, seeded and finely diced
1 teaspoon dried oregano
1/2 cup shredded cheddar cheese (about 2 ounces)
1/2 cup shredded mozzarella cheese (about 2 ounces)
1/4 teaspoon salt
Preheat the oven to 400°F. On a floured work surface, roll the pizza dough into a rectangle about 12 x 8 inches. Spread the chicken, red pepper, jalapeño, oregano, cheddar cheese, mozzarella cheese, and salt on top. Resist the urge to add too much topping, which can make rolling the dough difficult. Tightly roll up the dough and pinch the ends to seal. Slice into 8 equal pieces and roll each piece into a ball. Drop the balls into 8 medium muffin cups and bake until golden, 18 to 20 minutes. Let cool for several minutes before unmolding.
SPINACH DINNER ROLLS
This recipe requires some extra kitchen time, but one bite into these amped-up rolls and you’ll be glad you put in the effort. To save time, frozen spinach can be used. Just make sure to squeeze out the excess liquid. Serves 6 V, F
3/4 cup milk
1 packet (2 1/4 teaspoons) active dry yeast
1 large egg
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon sugar
1 tablespoon fresh thyme or 1 teaspoon dried thyme
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour or bread flour
1 cup whole wheat pastry flour
1 pound spinach (about 2 bunches), stems sliced off
1 cup finely diced feta cheese
In a small saucepan, warm the milk until just before it simmers. Transfer to a large bowl, stir in the yeast and let stand until the yeast has dissolved, about 5 minutes. Whisk in the egg, olive oil, sugar, thyme, and salt. Stir in the all-purpose or bread flour and the whole wheat pastry flour until the mixture clumps together.
Place the dough on a floured work surface and knead until the dough is smooth and elastic, about 5 minutes. If an indentation remains in the dough when pressed with your finger, it’s ready for rising. Place the dough in a large bowl with a little oil, turn to coat, and cover with a clean kitchen towel. Set aside in a warm, draft-free place until roughly doubled in size, about 1 hour.
Meanwhile, blanch the spinach by bringing a large pot of water to a boil and filling a large bowl with ice water. Add the spinach to the pot and boil until bright green in color, about 30 seconds. Drain and transfer to the ice water for about 2 minutes. Drain and squeeze out as much water as possible between several sheets of paper towel or a clean kitchen towel. Chop the spinach.
Punch down the dough by pushing down in the center of the dough with your fist and then pushing the edges into the center using your fingertips. Transfer to a floured work surface and press into a square. Roll the dough into a roughly 20 x 10-inch rectangle, with the long end at the bottom of the work surface. Spread the spinach on top of the dough, leaving a
1-inch border around the edges. Sprinkle the feta cheese on top of the spinach and tightly roll the dough into a long cylinder. Pinch the ends together to seal, and slice the cylinder into 12 equal pieces. Divide the dough pieces among 12 medium muffin cups with one of the spinach sides facing down. Cover with a clean kitchen towel and let rise for 1 hour in a warm, draft-free place.
Preheat the oven to 375°F. Bake the rolls until the tops are golden, about 18 minutes. Let cool before unmolding. Serve warm.
CHEDDAR-SAGE BISCUITS
These are not as dense as your typical biscuit, but all the wonderful savory flavors are still there. The biscuits are best consumed within a day of baking, or you can freeze them in an airtight container for several weeks. Serves 5 V, F
1 1/4 cups whole wheat flour (preferably not pastry)
1 cup all-purpose flour or bread flour
1 tablespoon coconut palm sugar or other granulated sugar
2 teaspoons baking powder
3/4 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon garlic powder
1/4 cup (1/2 stick) cold unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
1 1/2 cups shredded sharp cheddar cheese (about 6 ounces)
1/4 cup finely chopped fresh sage or
2 teaspoons dried sage
1 cup buttermilk
Preheat the oven to 400°F. In a food processor, pulse together the whole wheat flour, all-purpose or bread flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, salt, and garlic powder. Pulse in the butter until mixture looks like coarse meal and the butter is no larger than small pebbles. You can also do this in a bowl with a pastry cutter. Transfer the mixture to a bowl and fold in the cheddar cheese and sage. Add the buttermilk and combine gently until a dough forms.
Divide the mixture among 10 medium muffin cups and bake until golden on top, about 15 minutes. Let cool several minutes before unmolding. Serve warm with honey or butter.
CHEDDAR-SAGE BISCUITS, page 116
TOMATO-EGG TARTLETTES, page 118
TOMATO-EGG TARTLETTES
These downsized treats prove tarts don’t have to be a dietary train wreck. If you want to keep the crust crispy when serving leftovers, use the oven rather than the microwave to reheat. Serves 6 V
Crust:
3/4 cup whole wheat flour (preferably not pastry)
3/4 cup all-purpose flour or bread flour
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary or 1 teaspoon dried rosemary
1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
6 tablespoons cold water
Filling:
3 large eggs
1/3 cup low-fat milk
1 cup shredded Gruyère cheese or other Swiss-style cheese (about 4 ounces), divided
2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil
2 teaspoons grainy or Dijon mustard
1/2 teaspoon smoked paprika (optional)
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon pepper
2 plum (Roma) tomatoes
For the Crust: In a large bowl, combine the whole wheat flour, all-purpose or bread flour, salt, and rosemary. Make a well in the dry ingredients and pour in the olive oil and water. Mix to form a dough, wrap in plastic, and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 400°F. Dived the dough into 12 small balls and roll each ball into about a 6-inch disc on a floured work surface. Gently press the discs into medium muffin cups, making sure the dough rises up to the top of the sides. Stuff each cup with a wad of aluminum foil or a paper liner filled with dried beans and bake for 15 minutes.
For the Filling: Meanwhile, in a large bowl, lightly beat the eggs and milk. Stir in 1/2 cup of the cheese and the basil, mustard, paprika, salt, and pepper. Slice the tomatoes into thin rounds and cut each round in half to form half moons.
Remove the aluminum foil or liner and beans from the crust cups and fill the bottoms with the remaining 1/2 cup cheese. Top with the egg mixture and place two tomato half moons in each cup over the egg mixture. Bake until the eggs are set, about 15 minutes. Let cool for a few minutes before unmolding, and garnish with fresh pepper.
STUFFINS
Here’s a way to make your kitchen redolent of Thanksgiving any time of year. The best way to serve these is warm and doused with Mushroom Gravy (see page 98). Serves 6 V, F
1 day-old whole wheat baguette
1 tablespoon grapeseed or canola oil
1 leek, thinly sliced and then chopped
2 celery ribs, thinly sliced
1 teaspoon dried sage
1 teaspoon dried thyme
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon pepper
1 cup grated Parmesan cheese
1/2 cup dried cranberries
1 medium apple, finely diced
2 large eggs
1/3 cup low-fat milk
2/3 cup reduced-sodium vegetable or chicken broth, or as needed
Preheat the oven to 375°F. Slice the bread into small cubes and place in a very large bowl. You want about 4 cups total. Heat the oil in a skillet over medium heat. Add the leek, celery, sage, thyme, salt, and pepper. Cook until the leek and celery are tender, about 5 minutes. Add the cooked vegetables to the bowl with the bread cubes along with the Parmesan cheese, cranberries, and apple, and stir to combine.
In a small bowl, whisk together the eggs and milk. Pour over the bread mixture and stir to combine. Pour in 1/3 cup of the broth and stir to combine. Add the remaining 1/3 cup broth and stir until everything is moist. Add more broth as needed. Divide the bread mixture among 12 medium muffin cups. Use the back of a fork to pack the muffin cups tightly with the bread mixture. Bake until the tops are nicely browned, about 30 minutes. Let cool for several minutes before unmolding.
BLACK BEAN CUPS WITH SMOKY AVOCADO
The earthy flavor of black beans and bright avocado team up to produce an exciting side dish. Available at most grocers, smoked paprika should be in every pantry. Serves 6 V, G
Bean Cups:
1 (15-ounce) can black beans, drained and rinsed
1/2 cup quinoa flour
1/3 cup chopped parsley
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon pepper
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Avocado Filling:
1 ripe avocado
1 plum (Roma) tomato, seeded and diced
1/2 teaspoon smoked paprika
1/2 teaspoon grated lime zest
juice of 1/2 lime
1 garlic clove, grated or finely minced salt
For the Bean Cups: Preheat the oven to 350°F. Place the black beans, quinoa flour, parsley, cumin, salt, pepper, and olive oil in a food processor and process until a paste forms. Place a heaping spoonful of the bean mixture into 10 medium muffin cups and form each into a cup with the paste coming up the sides. Bake until the cups have set but are still slightly moist, about 20 minutes. Let cool for several minutes before unmolding.
For the Avocado Filling: Place the avocado in a medium bowl and mash. Stir in the tomato, paprika, lime zest, lime juice, garlic, and salt to taste. Add a generous dollop to each black bean cup.
SAVE ROOM FOR … DESSERT
If the only sweet treat you use your muffin tin for is the eponymous baked good, boy are you missing out. From panna cottas to mini tarts to individual cheesecakes, a muffin tray can turn out no shortage of virtuous desserts. I am particularly bullish on taking cake recipes and dividing them up into muffin cups. Not only does it slash baking time, but it also helps ensure portion control.
If you have an aversion to the D word, fearing an iffy ingredient list that contains a hazardous trifecta of white flour, copious amounts of heavily refined sugar, and a heart-stopping amount of fat, fear not. The arsenal of dessert recipes that follow are chock-full of wholesome ingredients such as whole grain flours, nuts, and naturally sweet fruits with just the right amount of sweeteners so they won’t send your blood sugar into a ti
zzy. You’ll find recipes from the deliciously simple (no-bake cheesecake, yum!) to splendidly complex—I’m looking at you, Mr. Apple Pie—that up the ante on a great meal.
EXTRA-MOIST CHOCOLATE CAKES
These almost-flourless cakes are the epitome of chocolate indulgence, with a short baking time that assures a warm, ooey-gooey dark chocolate center. Serves 6 V
4 ounces dark chocolate, chopped
1/4 cup (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, diced
1 large whole egg
1 large egg yolk
1/3 cup coconut palm sugar or other granulated sugar
2 tablespoons whole wheat pastry flour
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/8 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper or chili powder (optional)
2 teaspoons instant espresso powder or very finely ground coffee dissolved in
2 tablespoons boiling water (optional)
confectioners’ sugar, for dusting (optional) raspberries, for garnish (optional)
Grease 6 medium muffin cups with butter. Melt the chocolate and butter in a double boiler or a heatproof bowl set over a pan of lightly simmering water, stirring often. Or, microwave the chocolate and butter in a large microwave-safe bowl in 25-second increments on high power, stirring after each interval until melted.