by Hui Leng Tay
Congee
Another rice dish that remains popular in most of Asia is rice gruel or rice porridge. Congee, or Jook, as it is referred to in different parts of Asia, is almost considered Asia's comfort food. Such a dish is easy to prepare — rice is cooked in plenty of water or broth and becomes a thick rice soup — and is regarded as most satisfying. Like cooked rice, plain rice porridge can be complemented with other flavor some dishes. Congee is a comfort food, typically a breakfast food, and also was the basis for therapeutic treatment in ancient China.
Congee is also prepared and used for religious ceremonies and festivals. For example, a Chinese congee, called Laba Zhou, is named to honor the eighth day of the twelfth moon, the day Buddha received enlightenment. On this day Buddhist temples prepare this congee with cereals, peas, dates, chestnuts, lotus seeds, and dried fruits. When this dish is prepared on other days, it is called eight-treasures porridge.
Similar to making flavored rice in the West, the water and broth can also be flavored when cooking congee, and there is almost no limit as to what ingredients, toppings, or condiments can be added. Chinese communities the world over would typically add ginger, green onions, and cilantro, while the Koreans sweeten their rice soup with honey, dates, and nuts. The Japanese flavor it with mushrooms and nori seaweed, while the Vietnamese prepare theirs with fish sauce and roasted peanuts. Typically, if a stronger-flavored broth base is desired, meat such as chicken, pork, or beef, or seafood such as shrimp and scallops, are used.
Why is congee or rice porridge often considered undesirable and less luxurious?
Rice porridge remains popular in most of Asia. Since this dish requires less rice than plain boiled rice to feed the same number of people, it is considered a poor man's meal in China. Because of this, on the first day of Chinese New Year people eat cooked fluffy rice for all meals. To eat rice porridge on this day is thought to mean hard times for the future. Further, due to the large proportion of water used, the final soft texture of the rice, and its nutritional value and ease of digestion, this dish is preferred for feeding babies, the elderly, and invalids. These factors all contribute to the less luxurious image of congee.
Cooking Rice Perfectly
One traditional way of cooking rice that still remains today is to bring rice and a small amount of water to a boil over the stovetop and simmer it over low heat until the water is almost gone; then let it stand and allow the remaining steam to be absorbed or to escape. The invention and commercialization of the rice cooker brings modernization and convenience to rice cooking, bypassing the stovetop. Traditional or modern, the basics of rice cooking remain essentially the same — the amount of water required depends on the type of equipment (or pot) used.
The degree to which you rinse the rice depends on how well you know its source. Typically, modern industry standards assure that rice is clean before it is packaged and sold on the shelves. Thus, there is no need to overdo the cleaning. Rinsing it sufficiently to remove any residual debris and foreign particles that may impact the flavor of the rice will be enough. To soak or not to soak the rice depends on the rice variety and sometimes the recipe you are using. For example, you will typically find glutinous rice dessert recipes that ask for the rice to be soaked to allow the grains to absorb enough water to be steamed dry. Additionally, soaking also helps to remove excess starch in glutinous rice.
The bran layer of whole-grain rice such as brown rice contains fatty acids, and when not protected from the air, the outer layers of the kernel go rancid relatively quickly. It is recommended that you store your brown rice in the fridge in airtight containers, and use within a year. White rice can be stored at room temperature for up to a year.
Back to the most important element — water. There is really no perfect recipe when it comes to cooking rice. The standard measure when cooking long-grain white rice in the rice cooker is 1½ to 2 cups of water to 1 cup of rice. However, each type of rice requires a different amount of liquid due to different water absorption rates, so falling back to the cooking directions on the rice package or rice cooker might be a best bet. For instance, the medium- or short-grain variety of white rice may require less water than long grain, with the short-grain variety possibly requiring just up to 1 cup of water to 1 cup rice. As a general rule, you can reduce the amount of water used for long grain by ¼ to ½ cup per cup of rice when cooking medium or short grain. As already mentioned, whole-grain rice such as brown rice requires more water (2½ to 3 cups water to 1 cup of rice) and about a 60 to 70 percent longer cooking time than white rice.
Do not lift the lid to check on the rice when it is cooking. The cooking process depends on the development of steam inside the pot, so allowing the steam to escape by opening the lid may result in improperly cooked rice.
Instead of measuring with “cups,” there are also graduated marks on the inside of many rice cookers indicating how much rice and water should be added. As these measures can never be accurate enough, there are also the popular “orthodox” (or rather, “unorthodox”) ways of measuring the amount of water required for white rice: the 1-segment finger rule, the knuckle rule, the palm rule, or whatever you call it. For example, in the 1-segment finger rule, you measure rice into the pot, add what seems to be enough water, and place your pointer (or index) finger at the top of the rice. The water should just cover the first segment (crease) of your pointer finger. Accurate? Not exactly. Rather, these “rules of thumb” can be used as a guide to counter-check the amount of water used when cooking rice. Ultimately, it will still depend on the kind of rice you are cooking, the equipment you are using, and simply, how you prefer your rice.
The Miracle Cooker
The first commercial rice cooker was invented in Japan as recently as the 1950s. While the rice cooker does not have a very long history, it has certainly brought convenience to many homes around the world. No longer do you have to stand behind a stove and monitor rice cooking. A revolutionary device that boiled rice on its own — it was a miraculous invention! But you can do even more miracles with it.
If you disassemble an automatic rice cooker, you will find that it is little more than an aluminum pot sitting on top of an electric heating element. When given power (electricity), this device will progressively heat, simmer, boil, and finally, cook whatever is placed inside the pot. What does this sound like? A slow cooker? Cooking in a pan over the stovetop? Yes, indeed, there is heat to cook the food inside the rice cooker just as you would cook via stir-frying, sautéing, steaming, or stewing. The tricky part is how to control the heat during the interval between raw and cooked food. But aren't all other cooking methods similar? Many people, even those who have owned a rice cooker for years, are misled by the name and assume that a rice cooker is only useful for cooking rice. Quite the opposite is true. It is possible to cook an entire beef stew in a rice cooker, assuming you keep in mind that unlike a regular stew pot on a stove, the rice cooker has basically two temperatures: on and off. However, it is all about control and mastering the techniques.
Use a nonstick spoon that will not scratch the inside of the pot when “fluffing” the rice after it is done or stirring other food while cooking. The best tool for this purpose is a plastic rice paddle, which comes with most rice cookers. You can also use a wooden ladle. To keep the rice from sticking to the paddle, dampen the paddle with cold water.
Due to the simplicity, versatility, and size of rice cookers, they are popular especially among students living in college dormitories and people whose kitchens have only a limited workspace. However, it has also penetrated into the homes of many others due to its convenience. As is true of any other kitchen appliance, you need to know your rice cooker well. Not all electric slow cookers are created equal. Some cook hotter than others on the same settings, so “low” or “high” in one pot may not be the same as in another. However miraculous, the rice cooker really can't do (quite) everything. Most rice cookers are designed to accommodate temperatures of 100°C to 120°C (212°F to 248°F),
with some electric cookers able to manage up to 140°C (284°F). In other words, it is not made for high-temperature cooking, and thus it is not advisable to roast or deep-fry in a rice cooker.
Types of Rice Cookers
Although there seem to be many options on the market, there are essentially only a few basic types of cookers, grouped into two categories: on/off rice cookers and fuzzy logic rice cookers. Although all are electronic rice cookers, the on/off models may be referred to as direct heat rice cookers, while the fuzzy logic models may be referred to as electronic rice cookers.
The two common types of on/off rice cookers are the “cook and turn off” and the “cook and keep warm.” The “cook and turn off” cooker cooks the rice, and then automatically shuts off the unit. This is the least expensive version of the appliance. There is no light indicator that indicates when the rice is done. The on/off switch simply flips to the off position when the rice is done. These basic cookers do not normally offer nonstick pans or steamer units, but if you only want to cook rice, it will serve the purpose.
The “cook and keep warm” rice cooker cooks the rice, then reduces the heat when the rice is done, maintaining it at a warm temperature (the way to switch it off completely is to unplug it). These rice cookers are considered the most flexible and allow adjustable heat control for cooking (steaming, stir-frying, and stewing) other food.
Then there is a very sophisticated version called the fuzzy logic rice cooker. This type cooker has sophisticated electronic features such as a porridge-cycle button, reheat function button, quick cook function button, cake function button, and even texture setting button. All you have to do is press the button. It is a great machine, but expensive compared to other similar kitchen appliances (or pots) such as the slow cooker. This type of model buys you more convenience, but because it is operated by fuzzy logic sensors, it is hard to guess or even know how the heat is progressing, or how to control the heat while cooking. Nothing beats the flexibility of the basic on/off cooker and the variety of dishes that can be prepared in it — with user interaction, of course.
Some rice cookers are designed to accommodate a basket above the rice. This basket is generally used to steam vegetables, holding them in the steam coming off the rice. Most types of dumpling and buns can also be cooked this way.
CHAPTER 2
Essential Basics
Long-Grain White Rice
Brown Rice
Sushi Rice
Rice Congee
Warm Oats
Pasta
Marinara Sauce
Chicken Stock
Pork Stock
Shrimp Stock
Vegetable Stock
Soybean Stock
Long-Grain White Rice
The standard measure for cooking long-grain white rice is 1½ cups (12 ounces) water to 1 cup (8 ounces) rice. Countercheck with the “knuckle method”:The water should come up to the first knuckle of your index finger.
INGREDIENTS | SERVES 2
1 cup long-grain white rice
1½ cups water
Rinse rice well by gently swirling the rice in the rice cooker pot with 2 or 3 changes of cold water. Drain rice.
Add the 1½ cups water to the cooker pot. The water should cover the rice by about ½ inch. Place the pot back into the rice cooker, cover, and set to Cook. Time to cook varies with the type of rice cooker used.
After rice is cooked, do not open the cover immediately. Let it sit for 5 to 10 minutes to vent off the remaining steam. Fluff up the rice before serving.
Rice Rinsing Tips
When rinsing rice, gently swirl the rice in the pot with 2 or 3 changes of water, draining off the water each time. It is not necessary to rinse until the water is completely clear, as nutrients may be lost in the rinsing process.
Brown Rice
Brown rice has a thick bran layer that is coated with a waxy layer, and it is difficult for moisture to penetrate these layers. The cooking time for brown rice typically increases, while the cooking process remains the same.
INGREDIENTS | SERVES 2
1 cup brown rice
2 cups water
Rinse rice well by gently swirling the rice in the cooker pot with 2 or 3 changes of cold water. Drain rice.
Add 2 cups water to the cooker pot. Water should cover the rice by about ¾ inch. Place the pot back into the rice cooker, cover, and set to Cook. Time to cook varies with the type of rice cooker used.
After rice is cooked, do not open the cover immediately. Let it sit for 5 to 10 minutes to vent off the remaining steam. Fluff up the rice before serving.
Sushi Rice
A Sushi Oke (or Hangiri) is a large, flat-bottomed wooden mixing tub, traditionally used when seasoning sushi rice. A nonmetallic container prevents interaction between rice vinegar (seasoning for sushi rice) and any metallic surfaces. The large mixing surface allows the hot rice to cool rapidly.
INGREDIENTS | YIELDS 4 TO 5 CUPS COOKED RICE
2 cups Japanese sushi rice
3 cups cold water
½ cup rice vinegar
¼ cup white sugar
1 teaspoon salt
Rinse rice well by gently swirling the rice in the cooker pot with 2 or 3 changes of cold water. Drain rice.
Add the 3 cups cold water to the cooker pot. Place the pot back into the rice cooker, cover, and set to Cook. Time to cook varies with the type of rice cooker used.
While the rice is being cooked, prepare the vinegar mixture in a pan on the stovetop. Add rice vinegar, sugar, and salt into the pan and mix well, until the sugar dissolves. Pour the vinegar mixture into a small bowl; set aside to cool.
Spread the cooked rice into a large nonmetallic plate or bowl. Sprinkle the vinegar mixture over the rice and fold it into the rice with a plastic rice spatula in a spiral pattern, starting from the outside. Be careful not to smash the rice. Continue in this fashion until all of the vinegar is used.
Before Rolling Your Sushi
Before rolling your sushi, “fan” the rice by folding the rice frequently to cool it and remove moisture from the rice. This process gives sushi rice its signature sticky texture and glossy shine. When cooled, keep the rice at room temperature (not more than 2 hours), covered with a clean, damp towel. Do not refrigerate the rice, as it will harden.
Rice Congee
This is a type of rice porridge eaten in many Asian countries. In different parts of China, rice congee is enjoyed sweet or savory. Congee is also common as breakfast food in many places, such as Japan, Hong Kong, Singapore, and Malaysia.
INGREDIENTS | SERVES 2
1 cup long-grain white rice
3 to 4 cups water, according to desired consistency
Rinse rice well by gently swirling the rice in the cooker pot with 2 or 3 changes of cold water. Drain rice.
Add 3 to 4 cups water to the pot, cover, and set to Cook. When you hear the rice cooker making noises and see over-bubbling of fluid at the lid, lift up the rice cooker cover, stir the congee, and continue to cook for about 15 minutes with rice cooker lid tilted slightly to vent the steam pressure.
Continue cooking and adjust water amount depending on whether you prefer thick or soupy rice congee.
A Healthy Mix of Rice Grains
You can use different rice grains (red, brown, and white) when cooking rice or rice congee to introduce different flavors and texture. However, cooking two or more kinds of rice grains together can be challenging, as they will require different amounts of water and different cooking times. Combining grains is easier when making rice congee, because the proportions of rice and water are not as strict as they are for cooking rice used in other dishes.
Warm Oats
Garnish cooked oats with fruits and nuts to add color and variety. Bananas do not require further cooking and work well with cooked oats.
INGREDIENTS | SERVES 1 OR 2
5 cups water (adjusted as needed during cooking)
3 cups rolled oats
1 tablespoon honey<
br />
Add water to rice cooker, cover, and set to Cook. When the water boils, lift up the rice cooker lid, stir in the oats, then the honey, and stir continuously to combine.
Cook for about 5 minutes, until oats are cooked through. Add water as necessary, depending on preference for final consistency.
Pasta
The use of salt when boiling pasta enhances the flavor of the pasta. The recommendation is about a tablespoon of salt per gallon of boiling water.
INGREDIENTS | SERVES 2
6 to 8 cups water
½ pound pasta
1 to 2 teaspoons salt, to taste
1. Add the water to the rice cooker, cover, and set to Cook. When the water boils, lift up the rice cooker lid, add the pasta and salt, and stir the pasta gently to prevent pasta sticking to the base of the pot.
2. Cover the rice cooker and allow pasta to cook for about 8 to 12 minutes, until al dente or done to your taste.
The “Sticky” Issue
If your pasta is sticky, do not add oil and stir it more! Oil will not prevent the pasta from sticking and in fact, may have the undesired effect of coating the pasta, preventing it from combining well with your sauce. Pasta tends to stick together if it is not stirred during the critical first moments of cooking.