by Ted Merwin
delicatessens, decline of, 113–189
DeMille, Cecille B., 127
Dexter’s Restaurant (Bronx, New York), 156
Dilbert’s Quality Supermarkets, 121
Diner, Hasia, 7, 12, 21, 139
Dobias, Joe, 178
Dorfman, Lieutenant Colonel Harold, 97
Doyle, Dane, Bernbach, 125
Dr. Brown’s Cel Ray Tonic, 47–48, 158
Dragoon, Ronnie, 171
Drucker, Judith Nelson, 105
Dubinsky, David, 77
Duffy, Jennifer Nugent, 8
Dwyer, Thomas, 76
Earl of Sandwich, 5
East Bronx, 89
“East Side Kids” (film series), 87
East Village, New York, 162–164, 181
Eat ’n Shop Delicatessen (Los Angeles), 102
Ebbets Field, 114
Eden Wok (kosher Chinese, New York), 168, 179
Eggleston, Edward, 26
Elman, Ziggy, 103, 145
Environmental consequences of beef production, 144
Epstein, Joseph, 101
Essex Food Shop (Boston), 101
European Kosher, 39
Evans, Sara, 37
F. W. Woolworth Company, 36, 115
Fairfax Avenue, Los Angeles, 102
Federal Writers’ Project, 58
Feltman, Sissi Perlman, 106
Ferragamo, 137
Ferris, Marcie Cohen, 104
Fiddler on the Roof (musical), 21
Fixx, Jim, 143
Flatbush, 131
Flushing, Queens, 158
Flushing Delight Delicatessen (New York), 159
Foo, Wong Chin, 26
Ford, Henry, 54
Ford, Tennessee Ernie, 115
Ford, Whitey, 101
Fort Dix (NJ), 98
Four Seasons (New York), 6
Frank and Bob’s Delicatessen, 108
frankfurters (hot dogs), 29, 39, 85, 34, 41, 47, 55, 58, 79, 83, 84, 85, 92, 94, 95, 96, 97, 99; 101, 104, 114, 118, 122, 123, 124, 130, 136, 144, 158, 168, 175, 179; as phallic symbol, 92, 122
Freedman, David, 35
Freirich, Jerry, 120
fried fish stall, 35
Friedman, Oscar, 101
Friedman’s Delicatessen (Chicago), 101
Fuchs, Daniel, 71
Gabaccia, Donna, 27, 131
Gagarin, Yuri, 111
Gaiety Delicatessen (New York), 60, 70, 106, 149
G&G Delicatessen (Boston), 100
garlic, xiii, 32, 81, 87, 149; and anti-Semitism, 36–37
Gay, Ruth, 129
Gayle, Jackie, 152
gefilte fish, 16, 63, 64, 113, 118, 133, 178, 186
Gellis, Isaac, 38, 40. See also Isaac Gellis Delicatessen (New York)
Gemini 3 space mission, 111–112
gender roles, 90
George VI, King, and Queen Elizabeth, 92
George and Sid’s Delicatessen (New York), 79
Gersh, Harry, 107, 117
Gertner, Louisa, 76
G.I. Bill, 115
Gibbon, Edward, 5–6
Gibbons, Barbara, 143
Gittlin’s Kosher Provisions (New York), 39
Glass, Montague, 58, 75
Glassner, Barry, 142
Glazer, Ruth, 79, 83, 129
Gleason, Jackie, 147
Godfrey, Arthur, 124
Gold, David L., 21
Gold, Jonathan, 10
Gold, Judy, 151
Goldberg, J. J., 10
Goldberg, Paul, 88, 115
Golden, Harry, 105
Golden Touch, The (musical), 55, 147
Goldfried, Irving, 83–84
Goldfried’s, 87
Goldman, Ari, 138
Goldstein, Al, 162
Goldstein, Charlie, 100
Goldstein, Darra, 12, 172
Gone With the Wind (film), 87
Goodman, Benny, 103
Gopnik, Adam, 165
Gosset, Lou, 80
Gottlieb’s Delicatessen (New York), 84, 87
Gould, Jillian, 34
gourmet food shops: in Europe, 18–20; on Lower East Side, 27–28
gourmet kosher food, 155–157
Grabstein, Marty, 84
Grabstein’s Delicatessen (Brooklyn), 79, 84
Graham, Sylvester, 45
Great Neck (New York), xi, 89
Green, Irving, 100
Gregory XIII (pope), 18
gribenes, 185
Grieg, Edvard, 19
Grissom, Virgil “Gus,” 111
Grodsky’s Delicatessen, 115
Grossman, Bob, 133
Grossman, Ruth, 133
Gruber, Ziggy, 70
Gurock, Jeffrey, 89
Gutterman, Leon, 61
H. L. Kaplan & Company (Baltimore), 99
Haber, Yankel, 24
Hager, Murray, 78
Halper, Manny, 121
Halpern’s Delicatessen (Memphis), 104
Halter, Marilyn, 120
halvah, 102
ham and cheese, 104
hamburgers, 92, 96, 97
Handwerker, Nathan, 97
Harburger, Julius, 42
Harmon, Lawrence, 100
Harold’s New York Deli (Edison, New Jersey), 180
Harris, Julie, 149
Harris-Shapiro, Carol, 16
“hasher” girl, 69
Hasidic Jews, 154, 178
health and fitness movement, 141–145
Hebrew National Company, 14; advertising campaigns of, 122–126, 125; origins of, 38–40; 78, 108–110, 118, 120–121
Heiman, Jim, 58
Heinze, Andrew, 119
Henry, Buck, 141
Henry S. Levy & Sons (Brooklyn bakery), 124
Herald Square (New York), 168
Herberg, Will, 128
Herr, Nates, 98
herring, 99, 104, 105, 118, 172; “tore a herring,” 203n29
Hertzberg, Rabbi Arthur, 171
Hillel Sandwich, 5
Hindus, Maurice, 33
Hod Carmel Kosher Foods (New York), 40
Hoffman, Jackie, 151
Hollinger, David, 169
Horowitz, Rabbi Yaakov Y., 168
Horowitz, Scott, 167
Howard, Elston, 101
Howe, Irving, 34, 138
Hull House (Chicago), 72
Hy Tulip Kosher Delicatessen (Brooklyn), 79
Hyde Park, New York, 92
Hygrade Kosher Meat Company (New York), 40
Hyman, Paula, 31
Iceland, Reuven, 29
Il Monello (Italian restaurant, New York), 137
Il Nido (Italian restaurant, New York, 137
I’ll Say She Is! (musical), 53
immigrant generation, 6–7, 13, 28, 29, 31–38, 45, 46, 51, 54, 55, 66, 69, 70, 120, 138, 139, 142, 145, 158, 159, 161–164, 180, 183, 186, 189
interwar era, 90
Irish pub, 8
Isaac Gellis Delicatessen (New York), 96
Italian food, 135–138
Italian social club, 8
It’s a Pickle (video), 164–166
Jacob Branfman and Son, 40; kosher meat fraud, 49–50
Jacobs, Eli, 168
Jacob’s Ladder (Cedarhurst, L.I.)), 155
Jacobson, Matthew Frye, 48
Jakle, John A., 36
James, Allison, 131
James, Rian, 59
Jazz Age, 59
Jefferson, Thomas, 24
Jews and intermarriage with Irish, 66–67
Jews keeping kosher, 79–80
Jews moving to Los Angeles, 2
Jews moving to Miami Beach, 2, 98, 123
Jochnowitz, Eve, 148
Joe’s Broadway Delicatessen (Miami Beach), 106
Joe’s Stone Crab (Miami Beach), 106
JoeDoe (New York sandwich shop), 178: vs. JoeDough (upscale restaurant), 178
John Golden Theatre, 63
Johnson, Samuel, 19
/> Joint Council of Delicatessen StoreDealers, 95
Jolson, Al, 56, 60, 63
Jordan, Will, 152
Joselit, Jenna Weissman, 81, 118, 119, 138
Joseph’s Delicatessen (Los Angeles), 102
Junior’s Restaurant (New York), 13
Kahaney, Corey, 151
Kalfus, Ken, 147
Kalmanoff, Martin, 61
Kaminer, Michael, 173
Kanter, Abba, 20
Kaplan, Annie, 108
Kaplan, Josh, 179
Kaplan, Moe, 108
Kaplan, Mordechai, 81
Kaplan, Ricki, 110
Kaplan, Sari, 110
Kaplan’s Delicatessen (Monticello), 108, 109, 110
Kaplansky’s Delicatessen (Toronto), 172
Kassner, Diane, 68
Katz, Mickey, 116, 145–146
Katz’s Delicatessen (New York), 29, 30, 89, 91, 139, 141, 150–152, 174, 175, 177, 180
Kazin, Alfred, 32, 45, 85–87
Keaton, Diane, 149–150
Kellogg, Ella Eaton, 45
Kellogg, John Harvey, 45
Kennedy, John F., 101, 129
Kenny and Ziggy’s Delicatessen (Houston, Texas), 179
Kenny and Zuke’s Delicatessen (Portland, Oregon), 172
Kensington Kosher Deli (Great Neck, Long Island), 15
Kessler, Barry, 12
kielbasa, 122
King, Alan, 137
King, Larry, 107
King, Martin Luther, Jr., 105
Kirshenblatt, Mayer, 22
Kirson, Jessica, 151
kishke, 2; grease, 101
Klein, Mannie, 145
kosher delicatessen associations, 93
knishes, 2, 10, 13, 29, 79, 89, 128, 149, 158, 179
Kober, Arthur, 75
Koch, Mayor Ed, 162
Koenig, Leah, 48
Kong-Devito, Mary, 180
Korean War, 101
korobka, 51
“kosher,” as difficult to define, 51
kosher beef riot, 31
kosher butcher shops, 29; in the South, 104, 115
kosher delicatessen, 2, 11, 27, 28, 29, 34, 37, 39, 41, 76, 77, 79, 80–81, 82, 87, 88, 90, 91, 93, 95, 99, 102, 116, 117, 119, 124, 128, 129, 131, 133, 135; and black market, 94–95; and food companies, 38–40; and fraud, 49–51; glatt kosher, 155, 158, 159, 167; healthfulness, 45–46, 123; and Jewishness, different definitions of, 51–52, 66; and literature; 75
kosher delicatessen associations, 93
Kosher Kitty Kelly (musical), 66, 67
kosher laws, 47
kosher meat industry and fraud, 49
Kosher Murphy’s Delicatessen (South Gate), 104
kosher sausage companies, 93
kosher-style (non-kosher) delicatessen, 2, 3, 52, 55; in the entertainment district, 55–68, 90, 97, 108, 128, 129, 148
Kotik, Yeheskl, 22
Kraemer, David, 13
Krainin, Theodore, 47
Kranis, Jack, 95
Krasner, Irving, 95
Kraut, Alan, 118
kreplach (dumplings), 2, 102, 145, 178
Krupp, Herbert, 82
Ku Klux Klan, 54, 105
Kubek, Tony,101
Kubrick’s Supermarket, 121
Kuh, Patrick, 11
Kuleto, Pat, 79
Kun, Jost, 146
Kurlansky, Mark, 2
Kutsher’s Tribeca (New York), 178
La Kasbah (New York), 156
LaGuardia, Fiorello, 77, 95–96
Lammers, Wayne, 165
Lappe, Frances Moore, 144
Lawrence, Greg, 116
Lax’s Delicatessen (Los Angeles), 102
Leb’s Delicatessen (Atlanta, Georgia), 105
Lebedeff, Aaron, 22
Lebedin, Charlie, 105
Lebewohl, Abe, 138, 162
Lebewohl, Jeremy, 162
Lederer, Otto, 67
Lefkowitz, Murray, 83–84
legal definition of a delicatessen, 40–41
Lend Lease Program, 93
Leonard, Eddie, 68
Leonard, Jack E., 60, 147
Lev, Carl, 98
Levana (New York), 156
Levant, Oscar, 58
Levenson, Phil, 83
Levenson, Sam, 157
Leventman, Seymour, 128
Levi, Jane, 111
Levine, Harry G., 70, 89, 131
Levine, Hillel, 100
Levi-Strauss, Claude, 12
Levitoff’s Delicatessen (Los Angeles), 104
Levitt, Peter, 175
Levy, Esther, 30
Levy’s Rye Bread, 124–127, 126
Lewis, Jerry, 147
Lewis, Leonard, 120
Liebman, Rabbi Joshua, 127
“lieux de memoire,” 169
Lindemann, Leo, 63
Lindy’s Delicatessen (New York), 10, 56, 58, 60, 63, 69, 70, 106
Linny’s Delicatessen (Los Angeles), 102
Little Budapest, 156
Little Tough Guys (films), 87
liverwurst, 100, 104, 118, 143, 207n8
Los Angeles, California, 10, 102–104, 114, 172, 186
Lou G. Siegel’s Restaurant (New York), 88
Love and Death (film), 149
Lower East Side (New York), 1, 4, 7, 13, 25–32; food stores, 33–36, 37,40; kosher food companies, 38–40, 47, 51, 54, 85, 89, 115, 117, 133, 136; return to, 138–139, 141, 148, 151, 161, 163, 164, 167, 170, 171, 181, 187
lox, 104, 105, 108
Mahoney, Agnes V., 74
Making Trouble (documentary), 151
Malcolm X, 125
Mamma Leone’s (New York), 136
Manhattan, New York, 3, 6, 13, 26, 43, 58, 59, 78, 80, 88, 89, 96, 127, 141, 155, 162, 167, 168, 172, 187
Manischewitz Kosher Food Company, 160, 168
Manny’s Coffee Shop (Chicago), 101
Manoff, Arnold, 58
Marcus, Jason, 178
Mariani, John, 137
Mark, Jonathan, 157
Marx, Groucho, 53
Marx, Harpo, 10, 56
Mason, Jackie, 117
Maspeth, Queens (frankfurters), 159
Matt, Susan J., 33
Matzo ball soup, xi, 5, 61, 68, 118, 139, 146, 155, 164, 165, 167, 172, 173, 179, 180
Maxwell Street (Chicago), 101
May’s Department Store, 115
mayonnaise, 54, 89–90, 119, 149
Mazo’s Delicatessen (Charleston, North Carolina), 104 ??????
McGovern, George, 10
meat in ancient Judaism, 4
“meatless Tuesdays,” 95
Memphis, Tennessee, 104
Menashe, Louis, 87
Mencken, H. L., 26
Mendy’s (Grand Central Terminal, New York), 168
Mercer, Johnny, 103
Miami Beach, Florida, 105–107
Mile End Delicatessen (New York), 172, 174–177
Miles, Lotta, 53
Miller, Batya, 39
Miller, Bryan, 155
Modern Delicatessen and Lunch (Boston), 101
Mogen Dovid Delicatessen Magazine, 15, 46, 47, 50, 77, 82, 124
Molod, Fred, 84, 121
Monica, Corbett, 152
Moore, Deborah Dash, 55, 81, 91
Morgenthau, Robert, 10
Moskin, Julia, 172
Mostel, Zero, 2
movie theaters, 59
Mr. Broadway Bar and Grill (New York), 168
Mt. Sinai Kosher Provision Supply, 39
Mueller, George, 112
Multiculturalism and Jewish food, 138
Murray “Boy” Maltin, 103
mustard, xii, 5, 33, 39, 46, 60, 83, 85, 88, 99, 103, 108, 133, 149, 171
My Fair Lady (musical), 147
My Son, the Celebrity (album), 147
Nachman, Gerald, 147
Nadir, Moishe, 38
Nanou (New York), 155–156
NASA, 111–112
Nasaw, David, 33
Nate ’n Al’s Delicatessen (Los Angeles), 102, 103
Nates and Leon’s Delicatessen (Baltimore), 98
Nathan, George Jean, 55–57
Nathan, Joan, 4, 173
Nathan’s Restaurant (New York), 55, 97
National Kosher Foods (New York), 39
Neal’s Delicatessen (Carrboro, NC), 172
Nestle Foods, 130
Nevelson, Louise, 137
New York Deli News Delicatessen (Denver, CO), 179
“New York” Jewish Deli, outside New York, 98–110
New York Yankees, 101
Nichols, Anne, 67
Ninth of Av (Tisha B’Av), 4
Noah’s Ark Delicatessen (New York), 167
Nora, Pierre, 169
North Carolina Israelite, 105
nostalgia for the delicatessen, 169–172
Novick, Sam, 120
Office of Price Administration (OPA), 92, 94
Oldenburg, Ray, 7
O’Ross, Ed, 153
Orthodox Jews, 2, 31, 49, 51, 80, 89, 125, 133,134, 142; resurgence of, 154–156
Oscherwitz, 38
Overstuffed sandwiches, 55
Ozersky, Josh, 174
Palace Café, 63
Park, Sharon Daloz, 8
Parker, Milton, 165
pastrami, xi, xiii, 1, 2, 3, 4, 6, 11, 12, 17; and contemporary Jewish food, 178–179; etymology, 20–21; in film, 149, 166, 158, 167, 168, 169, 170, 172, 178, 179, 180, 181, 183, 184, 185; in literature, 145; in music, 22, 28, 29, 30, 37, 47, 56, 60, 61, 64, 69, 71, 85, 87, 89, 92, 97, 98, 102, 103, 104, 105, 107, 108, 114, 116, 117, 118, 129, 131, 133, 135, 138, 139, 140, 141, 143
Pastrami King Delicatessen (New York), 87
Pastrami ’n Things Delicatessen (New York), 141
Pastrami Olympics, 139–141, 140
Pastrami Queen (New York), 185
Peale, Norman Vincent, 127
Pearl’s Chinese Restaurant, 133
Peck, Gregory, 127
People’s Cinema, 87
Pepperidge Farm, 130
Perl’s Delicatessen (Baltimore), 98
Persky, Samuel, 129
Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, xiii, 24, 28, 31, 184
pickles, xi, 2, 4, 6, 12, 33, 39, 68, 87, 88, 101, 104, 106, 108, 138, 143, 146, 171, 174
Picon, Molly, 98, 124, 139
Pico-Robertson (neighborhood), 104
Pines, Skip, 144
Pizza Hut, 130
Plainview, Long Island, 167
Plotch, Batia Louzon, 156
Poliakoff’s, 88
politics and the delicatessen: in Boston, 100–101; in New York, 123
Polland, Annie, 9
Popkin, Samuel, 77
popularity of the sandwich, 56
Posit, Michael, 156
“postgastronomic,” 169
Postman, Neil, 131
postwar change in delicatessen foods, 97