by Hiroko Yoda
Chinnoji sat in an area that was then considered the furthest reaches of civilized Kyoto. Beyond its borders lay a literal wasteland where the bodies of everyone from criminals to murder victims were unceremoniously dumped. (In fact, the section of town in which Chinnoji still stands, called Rokurocho today, was then known as Dokuro-cho — Skulltown.) Chinnoji sat right on the border between life and death, here and the hereafter.
While Ono kept quiet about his trips among his living pals, it wasn’t any secret to the denizens of hell. It seems Ono’s wit and erudition was as much of a hit down there as it was up here. But the lid was blown off his nocturnal expeditions in an unexpected fashion one night.
Early in Ono’s career, he had been ordered to China as an official study-envoy known as a “Kentoshi.” But he couldn’t get along with the ambassador, and concocted a fake illness as an excuse not to go. This roiled the entire mission, and seriously compromised Ono’s standing. But a friend with connections named Fujiwara no Yoshimi interceded on his behalf, saving the young Ono’s reputation.
Little did either know that Ono would have a chance to repay the debt many years later, when Fujiwara fell ill and suffered what we would call today a “near death experience.” Fujiwara found himself seated before Lord Enma, the deity who decides the postmortem fate of every human soul. (You’ll read more about Enma in the next chapter). But if he was shocked at finding himself in the underworld, he was even more shocked to see none other than Ono no Takamura sitting right beside the fearsome judge!
Ono interjected during the examination of Fujiwara’s sins, convincing Lord Enma that the man still had much to accomplish in the world of the living. It’s a testament to both Ono’s powers of persuasion and the apparent regard in which the Judge of the Underworld held him that Enma sent Fujiwara back to Earth, where he spent many more healthy years.
As you might expect, the next day Fujiwara brought up the incident in the Heian-period equivalent of a water-cooler discussion. Ono swore him to secrecy, but somehow or another the story leaked, and Ono’s reputation as the man who had Lord Enma’s ear spread throughout the land — a fitting turn for a man who could be said to have pioneered the saying “to hell and back.”
A Day Trip to Hell
While you can’t climb down Ono’s well, you can see it with your very own eyes. Chinno-ji Temple is a twenty-minute ride by bus (take the 100 or 206) from Kyoto Station. Chinno-ji is also home to a pair of statues of Ono and Lord Enma, carved by Ono himself.
Stairway to Hell: the very well Ono is said to have used to access the underworld, at Chinno-ji.
What happens when one dies and doesn’t turn yurei? Read on for a preview of what lies in store for us all.
CHAPTER SEVEN
The Afterlife
HELL
The Afterlife:
JIGOKU (HELL)
The Afterlife:
JIGOKU (HELL)
Name in Japanese: 地獄
Description: Long and complicated, but the main event is coming face to face with Lord Enma (pictured at right).
Existence: We will all find out once we are dead. Read on...
You’ve lived a long and healthy life.
Or perhaps not. You died a hero. Or a scoundrel. Or rich. Or poor. It doesn’t matter. We all end up here, sooner or later.
Before you start freaking out any more than you already are, being dead and all, let’s get a few things straight. This “hell” represents Japanese conventional wisdom on the topic, so it won’t map precisely to the one you may be thinking of, were you raised under a Judeo-Christian belief system. It’s more of a general realm of the underworld. It is based on a Buddhist belief system, expanded and “localized” over centuries after its import to Japan.
While it is designed to be punitive in nature, it is more like an Earthly prison than it is an eternal fate. Your stay here — and the treatment you receive along the way — is entirely dependent on the sort of lives you lived before you arrived.
Note the plural. Lives. The life you are living now — er, lived up until now — is but the most recent in an endless line extending back through time immemorial.
So you’re dead. Assuming you don’t have any of the Earthly ties that might bind your soul to the world of the living like the yurei and onryo you’ve read about up until now, you should find yourself standing on the banks of the River Sanzu — Japan’s version of the River Styx. What happens next? Here’s what’s in store.
1. Meet the “Hag from Hell.”
Datsue-ba is a wizened, wrinkled old woman who strips off your clothes and weighs them to determine your amount of sin. Think of this as “entering of evidence.”
Some sneaky souls have gotten the idea of showing up naked to slip through the weighing process with a clean slate. Datsue-ba has a special treat in store for them: she peels off their skin and weighs that instead.
2. Cross the River Sanzu.
Now that your sins have been bared, literally, it’s time to cross the river
Unless you’re a small child, that is. Dying before ones parents is considered a sin, but children don’t go to hell. They stay on the near side of the river, building cairns of stones that get knocked down again and again by the denizens of hell. But a deity called Jizo watches over and gives them refuge. (See the Guiding Jizo, p. 128).
If you’re a holy person with a spotless soul, you get to take the bridge across the River Sanzu, followed by a cursory meeting with the powers that be, and an all-expenses paid trip to gokuraku (paradise). The end. Life well lived. Job well done.
For the remaining 99.9999999% of humanity (i.e., you), the trip across is a little rougher. If you’re a generally decent sort, you get a rickety boat ride across the turbulent waters. And if you aren’t, you’re forced to stagger through the freezing waters on foot. There are several crossing points; the very worst offenders are forced to slog more than 250 miles (400 kilometers) to the other shore.
Once you make it across, it’s judgment day.
In times of old, it was customary to bury a loved one with six one-sen coins to help them pay for a seat on the ferry across the River Sanzu. These are the same coins the Ame-Kai Yurei used to purchase candy for her baby (see p.78), and the same coins that appear on the banner of warlord Sanada Yukimura (see Ninja Attack!).
3. Meet Lord Enma
According to legend, he is the first mortal human to have lived and died. Ever since, he’s been presiding over the Court of Hell as the Lord of the Dead. He isn’t actually the first administrator you’ll encounter; a variety of sub-judges interview you first in a sort of circuit court to Enma’s supreme court.
Lord Enma will ask you to detail your sins yourself. The trick is, he possesses a book that contains a perfect record of the deeds of everyone who has ever lived and died***. If your explanation doesn’t match up, he’ll order your tongue to be yanked out with a pair of tongs. But whatever the case, you’ll receive your “sentence” here and...
4. Go to Hell!
Similar to the Western concept of “circles of Hell,” Japanese-Buddhist tradition holds that there are eight levels of Hell (see the following page for an artist’s interpretation). It’s easy to remember them, as they build upon each other in the same way that those endless games of “ I’m going on a trip and I’m taking...” you played on long car-trips as a kid did:
1) Tokatsu Jigoku: The shallowest level of hell, reserved for those who have taken any life, no matter how small. Swatted a mosquito? You’re a murderer.
2) Kokujo Jigoku: Murderers and thieves.
3) Shugo Jigoku: Murderers, thieves, and degenerates (the latter defined as those who have lain with those other than their married partners, or even thought of doing otherwise).
4) Kyokan Jigoku: Murderers, thieves, degenerates, and drunkards.
5) Daikyokan Jigoku: Murderers, thieves, degenerates, drunkards, and liars.
6) Shonetsu Jigoku: Murderers, thieves, degenerates, drunkards, liars, and blasphemers.
7) Daishonetsu Jigoku: Murderers, thieves, degenerates, drunkards, liars, blasphemers, and rapists.
8) Mugen Jigoku: The deepest level of hell. Those guilty of all of the above, plus whom have killed their parents or holy people, reside here for a lengthy stay.
Oni: Hell’s Helpers
The punishments of hell are dished out by creatures called “oni.”
Often mistaken for yokai, they are actually a class of creature unto themselves. They are difficult to describe in terms of Western concepts, as they don’t precisely slot into categories such as “demon” or “monster.” The closest translation is probably “ogre,” but even this comes across as far more generic sounding in English than oni does in Japanese. In keeping with similarly unique concepts such as “ninja,” “sushi,” and such, “oni” is best left as-is: “oni.” (Come to think of it, it’s smart to let oni be in general, linguistically or otherwise.)
Traditionally, oni are very large, muscular, humanoid creatures with bright red or blue skin. Tiger-striped loincloths are common accoutrements, as are large iron clubs. Their fingers and toes tend to be clawed, their faces snaggletoothed scowls. Some feature generally human anatomy; others sport grotesque proportions and twisted faces with three or more eyes. But the best way to identify these creatures is by their horns, a pair of which are de rigeur for any oni.
In spite of their well-earned reputation as gleeful torturers of the damned, oni are not viewed as inherently malevolent creatures in Japan. Although encounters with oni often end badly for humans, this isn’t always the case, and they are less a personification of evil than a personification of powers far beyond human control. A perfect example can be seen in proverbs such as kokoro wo oni ni suru — literally, “turning one’s heart into an oni” but colloquially meaning “tough love,” or oni ni kanabo — “giving an oni his club,” meaning to “take advantage of one’s strength.”
TURN THE PAGE TO ENTER HELL!!!
______________________
*** Even today, school teachers’ grade books are nicknamed Enma-cho (Enma Books)
GHOST GLOSSARY
akuryo 悪霊
Literally, a “bad ghost.” (As opposed to, say, the spirits of your ancestors, which are nice to have around.)
borei 亡霊
A dead soul whose identity is unknown. Vaguer than “yurei.”
eirei 英霊
A “heroic soul.” One who has fallen in war.
goryo 御霊
An “honored soul” with royal connections. In practice, often used as a polite way to refer to an onryo.
hinotama 火の玉
A weird fireball that is an indicator of supernatural activity. Similar to what is called a “Will o’ Wisp” or “foxfire” in Western folklore.
hitodama 人魂
Visually similar to hinotama, hitodama are considered to be actual souls of the departed. They take the form of fireballs that appear near graveyards and such.
hyoui 憑依
Possession by a spirit or other deity.
ikiryo 生霊
A “living ghost” – the soul of a living individual that leaves its body temporarily. The most famous is that of Lady Rokujo (see p. 28).
jibakurei 地縛霊
The term for a soul that is bound to a specific spot for whatever reason. A ghost responsible for a localized haunting.
kaidan 怪談
Written with the characters for “strange” and “narrative,” kaidan refers to ghost stories and other tales of terror. It is sometimes written “kwaidan,” which is an archaic pronunciation of the same word.
kami 神
A god or other powerful deity. Not to be confused with yurei or yokai.
noroi 呪い
A curse.
obake お化け
Often conflated with ghosts in colloquial usage, obake (pronounced oh-BAH-kay) literally means “something transformed” and more accurately refers to shapeshifting creatures such as yokai. It is a casual form of the word bakemono.
ofuda お札
A consecrated talisman, often in the form of a slip of paper, that can ward off ghosts and generally keep evil at bay. Procured from Buddhist temples and Shinto shrines. For examples of real ofuda, see p.188.
oharai お祓い
A spiritual cleansing rite performed at shrines. Essentially, a preventative exorcism.
oni 鬼
Powerful creatures that dish out punishments in the afterlife and are occasionally encountered in the human world as well. A symbol of power beyond human comprehension.
onibi 鬼火
Literally “oni-fire.” Often used as a catch-all term that encompasses both hinotama and hitodama.
Onmyoji 陰陽師
An expert in feng shui, geomancy, esoteric cosmology (astrology), and natural sciences. A high-ranking position in service to the Emperors of old. They were sometimes called upon to perform exorcisms of dangerous yokai, yurei, and other supernatural phenomena.
onnen 怨念
A potent mix of anger and/or sadness mixed with an overwhelming desire for retribution. A righteous grudge taken physical form. The fuel for an angry ghost (onryo). For more information, read the introduction to this book.
onryo 怨霊
In its traditional usage, the soul of an enemy of the Emperor returned to wreak havoc on the nation. In modern times, it is used to refer to any angry soul.
power spot パワースポット
Locations that are belived, for a variety of reasons, to be energizing to one’s body and soul. Often associated with natural formations or holy sites.
reikan 霊感
The ability to sense the presence of spirits or other supernatural phenomena. Psychics are known as “reinosha” in Japanese.
senrigan 千里眼
Clairvoyance. Often associated with those who claim to be able to see or communicate with the dead.
shinrei 心霊
Another, more generic term for a ghost.
shinrei shashin 心霊写真
Spirit photography. Photographs purporting to contain ghosts or ghostly phenomena. For more information, see p.152.
shinrei spot 心霊スポット
A location known to be haunted.
shoryo 精霊
The soul of a beloved departed relative or friend. Not to be confused with “seirei,” which is written with the same kanji characters but actually means something closer to “yokai” or “fairy.”
sorei 祖霊
The honored spirit of an ancestor. These are GOOD spirits to have around.
tatari 祟り
A more potent version of a noroi (curse), often resulting from blasphemous behavior. This is what happens when you get the gods angry.
yokai 妖怪
Not a ghost, but a supernatural creature or spirit connected to the natural world. See Yokai Attack! The Japanese Monster Survival Guide.
yurei 幽霊
A ghost, usually a frightening one. Read the intro!
TOYS OF TERROR
In Japan, playthings based on demons and ghosts have been popular for decades — even centuries, in some cases. Here are a few of our favorites. Note how none of the manufacturers actually used the term “yurei,” opting instead for the cuter-sounding “obake” in an attempt to soften the impact of these often gruesome toys.
ONI (1976)
These diecast figures were produced by the defunct toymaker Sakura as merchandise for a really great anime series called Manga Nihon Mukashibanashi, or Animated Japanese Folktales. Given that the target audience was children, it isn’t surprising that the portrayal of the oni is a bit cuter than you might expect if you’ve read chapter 7 of this book. The best part: pop in a AA battery and the eyes flash.
YAKO OBAKE : “GLOW GHOULS” (1970s)
These paper dolls were sold at dagashiya — “penny candy stores.” This sort of product represents the stereotypical dagashiya product: cheap and eye-catching, the better to
hook kids into spending their money. The contents consisted of 4 x 8 inch (10 x 20cm) cards pre-printed and punched for easy pop-out and assembly. They’re also still glowing strong after all these years.
GRUESOME PLASTIC MODELS (1970s)
A variety of plastic model makers, including the long-since-out-of-business Nakamura, produced assembly kits of various spooky creatures back in the 1970s.
HITODAMA-KUN (MR. HUMAN SOUL FIREWORK)
In the West, we have boring old sparklers. In Japan, they have Hitodama-kun! Simply pour the bottle of liquid human souls — uh, we mean, lighter fluid — on the cotton ball and ignite. Designed to resemble the mysterious fireballs that sometimes appear over cemeteries, they’re fun for the whole family, living or not. Bonus: it even comes with a paper triangular funeral headdress, just like any self-respecting yurei wears.
KARUTA CARDS (1800s - PRESENT)
Karuta, a Japanese word borrowed from the Portugese word for “ card,” were produced in massive numbers in Japan. The most common are tiny rectangles, but they come in all sorts of shapes and sizes. Portrayals of famous heroes and characters were by far more common, but occasionally enterprising companies produced karuta featuring yurei as well.