by Tim MacWelch
A CONNECTION WITH HISTORY We may have forgotten what our ancestors knew about edible plant lore, but foraging is in our roots. With the techniques provided in this chapter, you can walk in the footsteps of those who came before you and get reintroduced to timeless harvesting methods.
OUTDOOR EXPERIENCES Finally, don’t forget this simple, but important, reason for foraging from the countryside—enjoying the great outdoors. You can pick some berries to snack on while out for a quick walk with the kids or supplement the food you packed for a rock-climbing, kayaking, or backpacking trip with plants you find. It’s a great way to connect with nature.
106 STAY SAFE OUT THERE
Never for a moment think that foraging for wild edible plants is a risk-free endeavor—there’s plenty that can go wrong. You may misidentify a plant, have an allergic reaction, or even get sick from what should be a totally safe plant (specimens can be contaminated). Follow this tried-and-true list of wild-plant harvesting guidelines for best results.
HARVESTING TIPS
Be 100 percent positive about your identification of all plants and plant parts.
Research poisonous plants, and heed warnings about dangerous plants in your area and abroad.
Know how to use the plants, which parts to use, and when to use them.
Learn to recognize plants through different growth stages and seasons.
Wash greens, vegetables, and fruit to avoid pathogens from the droppings of birds, insects, and other animals.
Don’t collect plants near roads, dumps, trains, industrial areas, or other contaminated sites.
Eat only small amounts of plants that are new to you, try just one new plant at a time, and know which plants should be eaten in moderation.
Cook all aquatic plants and their parts in order to destroy waterborne pathogens.
107 GIVE SOMETHING BACK
In the beginning, it’s easy to think of the great outdoors as your own personal grocery store. When you’re just starting out, you may tend to over-harvest, especially since everything is free. But you don’t want to leave devastation in your wake—or leave your fellow foragers empty-handed.
It’s okay to take some plants, and in some cases, you may actually be providing a service. By cutting back plants where they are thick, you are making room for healthier growth. By harvesting invasive species, you are expanding the habitat for native ones. By spreading the seeds as you go, you are planning ahead for your future crop of edibles. In short, don’t use this book to descend on the landscape like a hoard of locusts—give something back.
108 LEARN BOTANY BASICS
Understanding the different parts of plants and the way they grow will pay off quickly as you begin foraging. Plants can be divided into many categories, but these two are a great place to start.
HERBACEOUS PLANTS The herbaceous group of plants consists of annuals (plants that live only one year), biennials (plants that live only two years), and other fleshy plants that are not usually long-lived. These plants have soft and green (not woody) leaves that die at the end of the growing season, leaving only the roots (the entire plant will die in the case of annuals). While most are small, some herbaceous plants can grow to the size of trees, such as the Musa genus, which contains the treelike banana plant (left).
WOODY PLANTS The woody group includes shrubs, trees, and many vines. These plants produce wood as one of their structural tissues and are typically perennials, living more than a few years. The stems, branches, and larger roots are reinforced with wood produced from plant tissue called secondary xylem. Those structures usually have a bark covering, which is built up from a corky material. Woody growth allows these plants to keep growing year after year, making them the largest and tallest terrestrial plants.
109 GET DOWN TO THE ROOTS
Learning the scientific names of plants (and all other life-forms) may seem boring and kind of nerdy—but there is no better way to cross-reference different species of plants. Using a categorical system called “binomial nomenclature,” every recognized species has been given a two-part scientific name. With only a few exceptions, these scientific names are the same around the world. The names are often Latin, with some Greek and other languages thrown in for good measure. Botanists’ names are sometimes honored in plant names, as well as the location where the species was discovered. Below are just a few of the merits of understanding how to interpret scientific names.
COMMON NAME Most plants have several common names, which are the ones people use every day. These can be confusing or refer to more than one, which is why the scientific name is the only way to be sure everyone’s talking about the same plant.
GENERIC NAME Also known as the genus, this part of the name tells you which plants a given specimen is related to. For example, everything in the genus Allium is some kind of onion or garlic and is edible for humans.
SPECIFIC NAME This term tells you the species and is an easy way to tell the difference between closely related things. One species may be edible, while another species is not, even though they are in the same genus.
Descriptive elements are often hidden in the scientific names. Rubra, for example, means “red“ (as in ruby).
110 DIVIDE AND CONQUER
This may seem really fussy, but trust me, knowing about leaves can mean the difference between life and death—or the difference between foraging a dinner and living on pocket lint. To quickly identify plants, start by looking at their branch patterns and leaf structures. They’ll fit into one of six categories: simple leaves, compound leaves, alternate branching leaves, opposite branching leaves, whorled leaves, and basal leaves.
SIMPLE LEAVES
These leaves grow as a single main body, though it may have multiple lobes or points.
OPPOSITE BRANCHING
In this symmetrical pattern, leaves grow directly opposite each other on a branch.
COMPOUND LEAVES
Multiple leaflets that count as just one leaf grow from different locations on the main stem.
WHORLED LEAVES
This uncommon pattern of leaves grows in rings at intervals along the stem.
ALTERNATE BRANCHING
In the most common branch pattern, alternate branching, leaves grow in a zigzag pattern.
BASAL LEAVES
These leaves grow in a circular ring at the base of a plant.
111 NOTE THE MARGINS
Next identify the names and shapes of leaf margins (the edges of the leaf).
Entire
Sinuate
Crenate
Serrate
Dentate
Lobed
Double serrate
112 FOLLOW A PATTERN
Once you’ve figured out branch and leaf patterns, your next step in identification is to determine what kind of leaves the plant has. Most plants follow a few common patterns, and though they may look similar at first, you’ll soon learn to spot these key characteristics and be well on your way to knowing what the heck you just picked.
Pinnate veins
Palmate veins
Parallel veins
Pinnately compound
Bipinnately compound
Palmately compound
113 SUPERPLANT: DANDELION
BE BLOWN AWAY BY DANDELIONS
The bane of golf courses far and wide, the lowly dandelion (Taraxacum officinale) is a familiar lawn and field weed that has a basal leaf pattern, typically with jagged-toothed leaves radiating from the root crown. The flower stems are smooth and hollow, and each one bears a solitary yellow head consisting solely of ray flowers (resembling petals), which later produce a “puffball” seed cluster of numerous single-seeded “parachutes.” The plant has a deep taproot, and the leaves are highly variable and may be nearly smooth-edged, toothed, or deeply cut. The plant gets its name from these toothed leaves: dent-de-lion, or tooth of the lion. The leaves, stem, and root typically exude a milky white sap when broken. Dandelions grow wild in most of the world, generally in full-sun conditi
ons; they are also cultivated as a green. This common weed, with its edible seeds, crowns, roots, leaves, and flower petals, may well become your new favorite plant.
LEAFY GOODNESS
Young leaves should be eaten raw, before they become too bitter. The blooming flowers can be peeled off their stems (remove all of the green base from them) and eaten in salads, too. The dandelion’s leaves and flowers pack a massive dose of vitamins A and C, as well as a strong flavor. The larger (and more bitter) leaves, along with the buds and roots, can be sautéed in a little oil for the best-tasting results. However you choose to prepare your dandelion, you’ll give your wimpy taste buds a workout with this bitter yet wholesome green.
FABULOUS FRITTERS
It’s been said that deep-frying can turn anything into an edible dish, and it is truly one of the most delicious ways to prepare dandelion. Pick as many blooming flowers as you can, pick off some of the green parts behind the petals, and dredge the flowers in batter. For a salty, savory fritter, use a runny cornmeal batter, and add salt to the fritters after frying them to a golden brown. For a sweeter snack, use funnel cake batter and dust the fried treats with powdered sugar or cinnamon sugar. One more tip: Make a lot of them. They’ll disappear fast.
HELPFUL TINDER
Perhaps one of the least-used parts of this ubiquitous weed is its flammable seed down. The seed down acts as a parachute to transport the seeds away from the plant, but in the hands of a fire builder, this fluffy tinder is an explosive fuel. Add it to other tinder and use it to catch fire from matches, lighters, or even sparks.
BREW A ROOT COFFEE
Once you’re sure you have safely identified the dandelion, dig up the roots of 10–20 plants. You’re looking for roughly 2 lbs (1 kg) of roots for a good-size batch of coffee. Cut the tops off, as they are not needed for the coffee (save them for later, and sauté in butter or oil to make a vitamin-rich cooked green). Here’s your recipe for a healthy, caffeine-free coffee alternative.
Preheat your oven to 350°F (177°C) while you wash the dirt off your roots, and cut them into approximately 1/2 -inch (12-mm) bits.
Spread the roots on a cookie sheet and bake until they’re chocolate-brown and just about to start burning. It usually takes thirty-five minutes or so, but watch the roots closely toward the end so that your hard work doesn’t go up in smoke. Once they’ve cooled, grind with a mortar and pestle or coffee grinder.
Freeze the roasted grounds, or you can store them for a month or two in a breathable container (like a paper bag).
To make your dandelion coffee, pour boiling water into a coffee mug and add 2 tbsp. (30 g) roasted root for every cup (250 ml) of water. Cover the mug with a saucer or some other lid and let the brew steep for ten minutes.
114 FIND THE FUNGUS AMONG US
Mushrooms are some of the most misunderstood organisms on earth. They are part of the fungal kingdom, neither plant nor animal, but sharing traits of each, and they are worth getting to know. Think of the entire organism as a buried apple tree. All of the roots and branches are underground, and the visible part is its fruiting body (the “apples” of the mushroom). These strange fruits inspire loathing in some cultures and love in others, both with good reason. The right mushrooms can make a delicious meal worthy of fine restaurants. The wrong mushrooms, however, can be your last meal, or put you on the fast track to a liver transplant. Pay attention, and use more caution when harvesting mushrooms than with any other plant.
115 AVOID AT ALL COSTS
Mushrooms are some of the most plentiful poisons the wild world boasts. You should become just as familiar with the ones you’d never eat as the ones that you know to be tasty—your life could depend on it.
FALSE MOREL
Gyromitra esculenta
JACK-O’-LANTERN MUSHROOM
Omphalotus illudens
SHOWY FLAMECAP
Gymnopilus junonius
SCALY CHANTERELLE
Gomphus floccosus
FLY AGARIC
Amanita muscaria
DEATHCAP
Amanita phalloides
SICKENER
Russula emetica
DEATH ANGEL
Amanita virosa
116 FOLLOW THE RULES
When working with mushrooms both in the field and in the kitchen, there are some basic rules that will help you avoid many of the hazardous members of the fungal kingdom.
DO
Verify you’re 100 percent positive about the identification of the mushroom, including the location and season of growth.
DON’T
Use the mushroom if there is any shadow of doubt in your mind concerning its identity.
DO
Cook your mushrooms—many edible mushrooms are safer cooked than raw.
DON’T
Eat or taste them raw—and don’t consume or cook them with alcohol. Some poisons can do more damage when mixed with alcohol. That chicken marsala can wait.
DO
Cut/bruise the mushroom and watch for any color change in the flesh, which can help with identification, as cana close examination of its structure and odor.
DON’T
Use mushrooms that are growing out of season. This is a common factor in mushroom poisoning cases. Never eat one that looks right but is growing at the wrong time of year.
DO
Be aware that some edible mushrooms can still cause illness. Use caution with mushroom caps that are scaly or bumpy. More than 50 percent are dangerous.
DON’T
Eat anything with volva and stem rings (annulus), unless you’d bet your life they are not Amanitas. Because you are, in fact, betting your life.
117 MAKE A SPORE PRINT
Mushroom spores can be very useful in making an identification. Start by getting a guidebook that clearly identifies what to look for in a spore print (it’s too complicated to go into here). Then, use these steps to make your own identifying spore prints.
STEP 1 Harvest a mushroom you are curious about. Handle it carefully, and assume that any unknown mushroom is deadly.
STEP 2 Wrap each individual mushroom in wax paper or a piece of foil for transport. Plastic bags will make them sweat.
STEP 3 Tape together a piece of white paper and a piece of black, and place the mushroom cap so half is on each color, then invert a disposable cup or bowl over it. Wait several hours.
STEP 4 Remove the cover and the mushroom cap. Observe the color of the spores that were deposited on the paper. (Some may only show up on either the dark or the light side.) Check the color against several guides, and double-check the mushroom’s structures against similar mushrooms to ensure that your alleged “edible” mushroom really is safe.
118 CLASSIFY MUSHROOMS
Ready for a culinary adventure? Mushrooms are one of the most coveted wild edibles, but also one of the trickiest to navigate. Pay close attention to details, and you’ll have a wild gourmet meal.
COMMON MOREL
Morchella esculenta
SEASON Spring
HABITAT Forests and shady areas
DISTRIBUTION U.S. eastern woodlands
DETAILS Common morels grows in forests, primarily in April and May, and are usually 2–4 inches (5–10 cm) tall. The tan, gray, or brownish colored head with irregular pitting can be well camouflaged against leaf litter.
IDENTIFIERS When cut in half, the common morel is entirely hollow inside. The cone-shaped head should be fully fused to the stalk at the lower end. If the head is only attached at the top and hangs like a skirt, it’s likely a false morel, which can be very poisonous. False morels (the genera Verpa and Gyromitra) usually grow in the summer and fall—a good time to avoid anything resembling a morel.
USES Several species of morel are edible, though a few notable species are dangerous.
SPORE PRINT Yellowish.
CHANTERELLE
Cantharellus cibarius
SEASON Summer and fall
HABITAT Hardwood and coniferous forests
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br /> DISTRIBUTION North America
DETAILS Chanterelles are mushrooms with a golden, egg-yolk color, and are some of the best-tasting wild mushrooms. They grow up to 4 inches (10 cm) wide and 3 inches (7.5 cm) tall, with an overall funnel shape.
IDENTIFIERS Chanterelles have thick gills that extend partially down the stalk. These grow directly from the soil, as opposed to their dangerous look-alikes, the jack-o’-lantern (Omphalotus illudens) and the showy flamecap (Gymnopilus junonius). These two poisonous species grow from wood, not soil.
USES Edible chanterelle species include red chanterelle (C. cinnabarinus), horn of plenty (C. cornucopioides), and fragrant smooth chanterelle (C. lateritius).
SPORE PRINT Pale yellow.
SULPHUR SHELF
Laetiporus sulphureus
SEASON Summer and fall