Easter ceremonies, 10–4
Ella, 39
Empress Elizabeth, 33, 89, 166
Engelhardt, Imre, 86–7
Esztergom, 9–14, 21, 26, 35, 50
Esztergom, Mayor of, 9–14
Esterházy, Christine, 68
Eugene of Savoy, Prince, 49–50
Ferdinand, King, 146
Fielding, Xan, 5, 8
Fischer, Rudolf, 7
Francis II, 71
Franz-Ferdinand, Archduke, 158, 166
Franz-Josef, Emperor, 163, 166, 240
Gelu, 96n, 97
Georgina, 109
Gescher, Eva Bekássy v., 7
Great Bustards, 73–4
Grenville, Sir Richard, 35
Gypsies, encampment, 44–9, music, 62, 141, washing for gold, 187 passim
Gyula (valet), 91
Hadik, Andreas, 32
Haroun-al-Rashid, Calif, 56
Haviar, Dr. vitez Gyula, and family, 64–6
Hermannstadt (Sibiu), 174, 233 and n
Herriot, Edouard, 182
Hitler, 133, 211
Horthy, Admiral, Regent of Hungary, 33, 38, 40, 226
Horvath, István, 178
Hunyadi, János, 121–4, 146, 246, 249 and n
Hunyadi, Lászlo, 146
Hunyadis (another family), 125
Hunyor, Dr. Imre, 58–9, 60
Ilona, 104
Isabella, Queen of Poland, 146
István, 129–42 passim and ch. VI passim
Iza, 104, 177
Jasš, 105–8, 177
Jászberény, 55
Jenghiz Khan, 20, 21, 191
Johann, Archduke (18th cent.), 70–1
John VIII Palaeologue, 199
John Sigismund, last King-elect of Hungary, 146
Joseph, Archduke, 82
Joyce, James, 39–40
Józsi, Count, 78–82
Kápolnás, 116, 177
Karl, King, and Queen Zita, last Sovereigns of Hungary and Austria, 33
Kazan (region), 235, 239, 244
Kingslake, Alexander, 50
Kocs, 102
Koestler, Arthur, 119n
Konopy, v., 115, 177
Konsular Academie, 129
Körösladány (village and castle), 67
Koschka Brothers (acrobats), 26
Kossovar winds, 242
Kossuth, Lajos ‘hero,’ 64–5, 104, 163, 240
Kronstadt (Bras, ov, Brásso), 170 and n, 172
Krum, 51–2, 56
Lajos, 73–6
Lapușnic, 178, 225
Lászlo, 76–7
Lázár, Laszlo v., 178-9
Lederer, Miklos, 61–2
Lökösháza, 85
Louis (Lajos) II, King, 49 and n
Luther, Martin, 184
Magyars, 20, 36, 52
Malek (horse), 41–64 passim
Maria Teresa, Empress, 21
Marie, Queen of Rumania, 146
Martinuzzi, Cardinal, 109
Matthias Corvinus. See Corvinus
Meran, Countess Ilona, 67-9
Meran, Count Johann (Hansi), 70
Mezötur, 60
Michael the Brave (17th cent.), 145–6, 173
Michael, Prince, 85
Miklos, 27
Mioritza, 218–21
Moldavia, Principality of, 98 passim
Moldova Veche, 235, 239
Mongols, 20–1
Mures,, 156
Murray, Mr. and Mrs. John, 8
Nádasdy château, 115
New York Hotel, Cluj, 152–3
Nicephorus, Emperor, 52
Nicholas I, Tsar, 163
O’Kigyos, 83, 104
Orșova, 231, 239, 248, 251, 253, 256
Otto, Archduke, 33, 89
Otto, Emperor, 53
Ötvenes, 108–10
Pâncota, 86
Pechenegs, 52
Pest, 36–7, 41
Peter, Brother, 111–3
Petöfi ‘poet and hero,’ 72, 163
Pied Piper ‘legend,’ 161–2, 162n
Puztapo, 60
Radu (shepherd), 192–5, 202–3, 207
Rákoczi princes, 147
Rantzau, Josias v., 126 and n
Regat (The Kingdom), 98, 125, 241
Ria, 91–2, 101, 109
Rilke, Rainer Maria, 35
Rudolph II, Emperor, 35
Rudolph, Crown Prince, 158
Safta and Ileana, 136–9
Saki, 181–2
Sarmizegethusa, ancient capital of the Dacians, 204
Schossberger, Baron, 60
Schramm, Heinz, 226–7
Scott, Sir Walter, 109n
Segesvár (Schässburg), 160
Serédy, Mgr., Archbishop of Esztergom and Prince Primate of Hungary, 10
Sidney, Sir Philip, 35
Sigismund of Hungary, King, later H.R.E., 122, 249–50
Simeon the Bulgar, 52
Slatin Pasha, 38
Soborsin, 115 and n, 177
Sozzini and the Socinians, 150
Stauffenberg Conspiracy, 126n
St. Albans, Duke of, 34
St. Elizabeth of Hungary, 20
St. Nicetas of Remesiana, 96
St. Stephen, 53
St. Stephen’s Crown, 33, 100, 240
Suleiman the Magnificent, 49–50
Svevo, Italo, 40
Sweeps’ secret guild, 29
Swiatapluk, 51
Sylvester, David, 7
Szechényi, Count István, 236 and n, 239, 251, 256
Szeklers, 155–6, 160
Szentendre, 22, 24
Szigi, 81
Szob, 15
Szolnok, 58, 61
Tartars (Tatars), 105, 169–70
Teleki, Count Jenö and Countess Catherine (Tinka), 116–21, 124–8, 133–4, 145–6, 177
Teleki, Count Joseph, 120
Teleki, Count Paul, 38 and n
Teleki, Count Samuel (18th cent.), 119–27
Theresianum, The, 129
Thuroczy, Tibor v., 60
Tibor (Borosjenö), 88–92, 102–4
Tibor (Budapest), 25, 39
Timis,, valley of, 230
Timis, oara, 115
Toledo, Third Council of, 197
Tomesști, 180
Tovicseghaza, 104
Trajan’s Bridge, 241
Transylvania described, 92–102
Turda, 150
Uri utca (17th cent. street in Budapest), 24–5
Vajdahunyad castle, 121 et seq.
Vár (fortress of Buda), 24, 36
Vasilakis, Niko, 7
Vestö, town and castle, 73, 75
Visegrád, town and castle, 20, 217
Vlad III of Wallachia, 163–4
Voltaire, 120
Winckler, Robert v., 180, 187
Wallachia, Principality of, 101 passim
Wolves, 194–5
Ybl, architect, 81
Zám, 127, 128
Zapolya, King, 146
THIS IS A NEW YORK REVIEW BOOK
PUBLISHED BY THE NEW YORK REVIEW OF BOOKS
435 Hudson Street, New York, NY 10014
www.nyrb.com
Copyright © 1986 by Patrick Leigh Fermor
Introduction copyright © 2005 by Jan Morris
All rights reserved.
First published in the United Kingdom by John Murray Ltd
Cover painting: Albrecht Altdorfer, View of the Danube near Regensburg, c. 1520 Alte Pinakothek, Munich; Scala/Art Resource
Cover design: Katy Homans
The Library of Congress has cataloged the earlier printing as follows:
Fermor, Patrick Leigh.
Between the woods and the water / by Patrick Leigh Fermor ; introduction by Jan Morris.
p. cm. — (New York Review Books classics)
Continues: A time of gifts.
Originally published: London : Murray, 1986. With new introd.
Includes index
.
ISBN 1-59017-166-7 (alk. paper)
1. Danube River Valley—Description and travel. 2. Europe, Eastern—Description and travel. 3. Fermor, Patrick Leigh—Travel—Danube River Valley. I. Title. II. Series.
DJK76.4.F47 2005
914.96—dc22
2005012027
eISBN 978-1-59017-518-7
v1.0
For a complete list of books in the NYRB Classics series, visit www.nyrb.com or write to:
Catalog Requests, NYRB, 435 Hudson Street, New York, NY 10014
CONTENTS
Cover
Biographical Notes
Title Page
Introduction
BETWEEN THE WOODS AND THE WATER
Epigraph
Introductory Letter to Xan Fielding
1 Bridge Passage
2 Budapest
3 The Great Hungarian Plain
4 The Marches of Transylvania
5 Across the Forest
6 Triple Fugue
7 Carpathian Uplands
8 The End of Middle Europe
Appendix: Thoughts at a Café Table Between the Kazan and the Iron Gates
Index
Copyright and More Information
Between the Woods and the Water Page 29