by Mark Synnott
A few climbers in particular deserve special mention: Jared Ogden and Kevin Thaw, with whom I did the bulk of my expeditions, are the best partners I’ve ever had; Greg Child, a hero from my Crazy Kids days, who later became a mentor, partner, and friend; Conrad Anker, for opening the door for me to pursue climbing full-time, for his mentorship, and for suggesting that I bring Alex Honnold on that expedition to Borneo. Alex Lowe was my idol as a young climber, and despite our falling out on Great Trango Tower, I still consider it a great privilege to have roped up with him. His memory lives on through the Alex Lowe Charitable Foundation and the Khumbu Climbing Center.
My career as a climber would have followed a very different trajectory were it not for the support and encouragement I’ve received from the North Face over the past twenty-two years. Foremost, I thank Katie Ramage, Chris Sylvia, Maeve Sloane, Kevin Hogan, Andy Coutant, Landon Bassett, Mark Hyde, Bill Brown, Tom Herbst, Todd Spaletto, Steve Rendle, the entire athlete team; and most important, my great friend, the late Ann Krcik.
Thanks to my sister, Amy Synnott-D’Annibale, who set me on the path to becoming a writer when she helped me land my first official magazine assignment back in 1996. My mom, Suzanne Synnott, instilled in me at a young age that I was special and meant to do great things. My late father, William Synnott, gave me my drive, work ethic, and love for the outdoors. He would have done his best to hide it, but I know he would have been proud to hold this book in his hands.
Thanks to all the writers whose work has been helpful to me in telling this story: David Roberts, Duane Raleigh, Andrew Bisharat, Alex Lowther, J. B. MacKinnon, Joseph Hooper, Daniel Duane, John Branch, Benjamin Madley, James Lucas, Julie Ellison, Seth Heller, Cedar Wright, Matt Samet, Trip Gabriel, and Burr Snider.
There’s a saying among climbers that we are “living the dream.” It’s almost always said sarcastically, in acknowledgment of the fact that the climbing life is a tricky one, especially when we’re not on the wall. No one understands this better than my family. Finding the right balance between my passion for climbing and the responsibilities of being a husband and father has been the greatest challenge of my life. And I’ll readily admit that I haven’t always gotten it right. But I hope this book might one day help my children—Will, Matt, Lilla, and Tommy—appreciate why this sport is so important to me.
Lastly, I thank my wife, Hampton, who is by far my biggest supporter and without whom I could not have completed this project. Her contribution as an editor, confidant, mom, athlete, adventurer, best friend, and moral rock cannot be overstated. I could not have a better partner for the climb through life.
About the Author
Mark Synnott is a twenty-year member of the North Face Global Athlete Team. He is a frequent contributor to National Geographic magazine and has written for Outside, Men’s Journal, Skiing, Rock and Ice, and Climbing. He is also an IFMGA-certified mountain guide and a trainer for the Pararescuemen of the United States Air Force.
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