Dec 1 st at each neck edge every RS row 3 (2, 2) times—65 (89, 109) sts rem when all raglan and neck shaping is complete; 2 (9, 14) sts for each front, 39 (49, 59) sts for back, 11 sts for each sleeve. Work 1 (WS) row. Do not BO. Break yarn.
Finishing
Neckband
With RS facing and smaller needle, work 6 held band sts in seed st, pick up and knit 25 (21, 22) sts along right front neck edge; beg with a purl (knit, purl) st, work 65 (89, 109) neck sts in seed st, pick up and knit 25 (21, 22) sts along left front neck edge, work 6 held band sts in seed st—127 (143, 165) sts total. Work 5 rows even in seed st, ending with a WS row.
NEXT ROW: (RS) Work buttonhole on first 6 sts, work to end in seed st.
Work 3 rows even in seed st. BO all sts in patt.
Sew buttons to left front band opposite buttonholes. With yarn threaded on a tapestry needle, use the mattress st (see Glossary) to sew sleeve and underarm seams. Weave in loose ends. Steam lightly to block.
Yvette Roositud Hat
DESIGNED BY KATE GAGNON OSBORN
Roositud is an Estonian inlay technique in which a contrasting color is wrapped back and forth between the front and back of the fabric as it is knitted, resulting in a geometric pattern that looks similar to embroidery. The roositud technique allows the knitter freedom to place a motif anywhere and to use as many colors as desired. Three colors are used to create detailed patterning in this beret, and the pattern yarns are doubled for a fuller overall effect. Traditionally, roositud inlay was used only on mittens and stockings, but the technique is worked as a graphic motif on one side of this beret for an update on tradition.
Materials
yarn
Sportweight (#2 Fine).
shown here: The Fibre Company Road to China Light (65% baby alpaca, 15% silk, 10% camel, 10% cashmere; 159 yd [145 m]/50 g): riverstone (beige; MC), 2 skeins; peridot (green; CC1), hematite (gray; CC2), and carnelian (red; CC3), 1 skein each.
needles
hat: size U.S. 3 (3.25 mm): 16" (40 cm) circular (cir) and set of 4 or 5 double-pointed (dpn).
ribbing: size U.S. 1 (2.25 mm): 16" (40 cm) cir.
Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.
notions
Markers (m); tapestry needle.
gauge
26 stitches and 33 rounds = 4" (10 cm) in stockinette stitch on larger needles, worked in rounds.
finished size
About 19" (48.5 cm) in circumference at brim, 25¾" (65.5 cm) circumference at widest point, and 8¼" (21 cm) tall.
Roositud Inlay
This inlay technique is worked by following a charted pattern in a series of two-round sequences.
RND 1: Work the first round according to the charted pattern, moving the inlay yarn forward and back between the needles as specified, making sure not to pull the yarn too tightly (Figure 1).
RND 2:
STEP 1. Knit to the beginning of the inlay pattern.
STEP 2. Lift the inlay yarn from back to front over the top of the left-hand needle, then place it front to back between the needles where you are working (Figure 2), leaving a loose loop of inlay yarn.
STEP 3. At the end of the first group of inlay sts, place the left side of the loop of yarn between the needles to the back (Figure 3), then bring the loop to the front and back as specified by the chart for each following group of inlay stitches (Figure 4). After all inlay stitches have been worked, tug on the loose end of the inlay loop to tighten the stitches (Figure 5). The inlay yarn is now in position to work the next round.
Repeat these 2 rounds to complete the charted pattern.
figure 1
figure 2
figure 3
figure 4
figure 5
Hat
With MC, larger cir needle, and using a provisional method (see Glossary), CO 62 sts. Do not join. Purl 1 (WS) row, knit 1 row, then purl 1 row. Remove waste yarn from provisional CO and carefully place 62 exposed sts onto smaller needle. Hold needles parallel with larger needle in front and WS of fabric facing tog.
JOINING ROW: (RS) With smaller needle, *k1 from front needle, p1 from back needle; rep from *—124 sts.
Cont with smaller cir needle, place marker (pm), and join for working in rnds, being careful not to twist sts. Work in k1, p1 rib until piece measures ½" (3.8 cm) from CO.
INC RND: *K2, M1 (see Mirrored Increases), [k3, M1] 5 times, k2, M1, [k3, M1] 4 times; rep from *—168 sts.
Change to larger cir needle. Work roositud inlay (see sidebar at left) as foll:
NEXT RND: K14, pm for beg of chart, work 35 sts according to Rnd 1 of Roositud chart, pm for end of chart, knit to end.
Cont in patt through Rnd 35 of chart.
Roositud
Shape Crown
Note: You will cont working Roositud chart through Rnd 49, then work all sts with MC; crown shaping is also shown on chart for clarity.
SET-UP RND: (Rnd 36 of chart) *Work 21 sts, pm for shaping; rep from * 7 more times.
DEC RND: *Ssk, work to 2 sts before shaping m, k2tog; rep from *—16 sts dec’d.
Work 2 rnds even. Rep last 3 rnds once more—136 sts rem. Rep dec rnd. Work 1 rnd even. Rep last 2 rnds 5 more times, then work dec rnd once more—24 sts rem.
NEXT RND: [Sl 2 as if to k2tog, k1, p2sso] 8 times—8 sts rem.
Cut yarn, leaving an 8" (20.5 cm) tail. Thread tail on a tapestry needle, draw through rem sts two or three times, pull tight to close hole, and fasten off on WS.
Finishing
Weave in all MC loose ends. Cut inlay strands to about 5" (12.5 cm) but do not weave in these ends. Soak hat in warm water and wool wash and lay flat to dry. When dry, adjust inlay yarns as necessary for even tension, then weave in the ends.
Adelaide
Yoke Pullover
DESIGNED BY KATE GAGNON OSBORN
Icelandic yoke sweaters were first introduced to the public in the mid-twentieth century, inspired by a variety of knitting techniques and cultures that included the Bohus yoke pullovers introduced by Anna-Lisa Mannheimer Lunn, classic Norwegian lice-stitch sweaters, and intricate beaded collars of the Greenland National Costume. Although a young technique relative to the lengthy history of knitting, this style of sweater is a true classic design that is easily identifiable among knitters. The Adelaide pullover is directly inspired by Icelandic sweaters but has been updated with a longer, closer fit, waist shaping, and short-rows prior to the Fair Isle patterning for a good fit and comfortable neckline. Ultrafeminine soft colors are utilized in lieu of traditional natural sheep colors for an additional twist on tradition.
Materials
yarn
Worsted weight (#4 Medium).
shown here: The Fibre Company Terra (40% baby alpaca, 40% merino wool, 20% silk; 98 yd [91 m]/50 g): yarrow (light blue; MC), 8 (9, 10, 11, 12, 13) skeins; logwood purple (CC1), hollyhock (pink; CC2), fustic (orange; CC3), anemone (pale green; CC4), 1 skein each.
needles
body: size U.S. 8 (5 mm): 16" (40 cm) and 24" or 36" (60 or 80 cm) circular (cir) and set of 4 or 5 double-pointed (dpn).
ribbing: size U.S. 6 (4 mm): 16" (40 cm) and 24" or 36" (60 or 80 cm) cir and set of 4 or 5 dpn.
Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.
notions
Markers (m); waste yarn or spare needles for holders; tapestry needle.
gauge
18 stitches and 27 rounds = 4" (10 cm) in stockinette stitch on larger needle, worked in rounds; 19 stitches and 25 rounds = 4" (10 cm) in yoke pattern on larger needle, worked in rounds.
finished size
About 31½ (35½, 40½, 44½, 48½, 52½)" (80 [90, 103, 113, 123, 133.5] cm) bust circumference. Sweater is designed for a close fit with zero ease. Sweater shown measures 35½" (90 cm).
Stitch Guide
Broken Rib (even number of sts)
RND 1: *K1, p1; rep from *.
RND 2: Knit.
Rep Rnds 1 and 2 for patt.
&n
bsp; Short-Rows
To update the look and fit of this sweater, short-rows are used to raise the back neck and shoulders. This creates a neckline that more closely resembles a crewneck, gives a more comfortable fit, and, when done correctly, is practically invisible. Short-row shaping may not seem clear as you read through the directions, but makes perfect sense when worked with the stitches on the needles.
When knitting short-rows, you’ll work a section of the stitches back and forth in rows and wrap the working yarn around a stitch each time you change rows. This is commonly written as “wrap next st, turn,” “wrap and turn,” or “w&t.” Here’s how it works:
Right-Side (Knit) Rows
STEP 1: With the right (knit) side facing, knit to the turning point indicated in the written instructions.
STEP 2: Slip the next stitch purlwise (Figure 1).
STEP 3: Bring the working yarn to the front as if to purl the next stitch, then slip the same stitch back onto the left-hand needle (Figure 2) in preparation to knit the next stitch.
STEP 4: Turn the work around so that the wrong (purl) side is facing you, then bring the yarn into position for the next stitch—1 stitch has been wrapped, and the yarn is in position to purl the next stitch.
figure 1
figure 2
figure 3
To hide the wrap on a subsequent row, work to the wrapped stitch, insert the right needle tip under the wrap (Figure 3), then into the stitch on the needle, and work the stitch and its wrap together as a single stitch.
Wrong-Side (Purl) Rows
STEP 1: With the wrong (purl) side facing, purl to the turning point indicated in the written instructions.
STEP 2: Slip the next stitch purlwise, then bring the yarn to back of the work (Figure 4).
STEP 3: Return the slipped stitch to the left-hand needle, then bring the working yarn to the front (Figure 5).
STEP 4: Turn the work around so that the right (knit) side is facing you—1 stitch has been wrapped, and the yarn is in position to knit the next stitch.
To hide the wrap on a subsequent row, work to the wrapped stitch, use the tip of the right-hand needle to pick up the wrap from the back, place it on the left-hand needle (Figure 6), then work it together with the wrapped stitch.
figure 4
figure 5
figure 6
Sleeves
With MC and smaller dpn, CO 38 (38, 40, 40, 46, 46) sts. Place marker (pm) and join for working in rnds, being careful not to twist sts. Rep Rnds 1 and 2 of broken rib (see Stitch Guide) 7 times, then rep Rnd 1 once more. Change to larger dpn and work next rnd for your size as foll.
Sizes 31½ (35½, 48½, 52½) "
(80 [90, 123, 133.5] cm) only
K1, M1L (see Mirrored Increases), knit to last st, M1R (see Mirrored Increases), k1—2 sts inc’d.
Sizes 40½ (44½)" (103 [113] cm) only
Knit.
All sizes
There are 40 (40, 40, 40, 48, 48) sts. Work Rnds 1–19 of Sleeve chart. Cont in MC only, work 3 rnds even.
INC RND: K1, M1L, knit to last st, M1R, k1—2 sts inc’d.
Knit 6 rnds even. Rep the last 7 rnds 5 (6, 8, 11, 8, 9) more times—52 (54, 58, 64, 66, 68) sts. Work even in St st until piece measures 18" (45.5 cm) from CO or desired length to underarm and at the same time work the last 2 rnds as foll:
RND 1: Knit to last 4 sts, BO 4 sts—48 (50, 54, 60, 62, 64) sts rem.
RND 2: BO 4 sts, knit to end—44 (46, 50, 56, 58, 60) sts rem.
Place sts on waste yarn or spare needle.
Body
With MC and smaller, longer cir needle, CO 142 (160, 182, 200, 218, 236) sts. Pm and join for working in rnds, being careful not to twist sts. Rep Rnds 1 and 2 of broken rib until piece measures 3" (7.5 cm) from CO, ending with Rnd 2 of patt. Change to larger, longer cir needle and work even in St st for 2½" (6.5 cm).
NEXT RND: K71 (80, 91, 100, 109, 118), pm, knit to end.
DEC RND: K1, k2tog, knit to 3 sts before m, ssk, k1, slip marker (sl m), k1, k2tog, knit to last 3 sts, ssk, k1—4 sts dec’d.
Knit 6 rnds even. Rep the last 7 rnds 3 more times—126 (144, 166, 184, 202, 220) sts rem.
INC RND: K1, M1L, knit to 1 st before next m, M1R, k1, sl m, k1, M1L, knit to 1 st before next m, M1R, k1—4 sts inc’d.
Knit 6 rnds even. Rep the last 7 rnds 3 more times—142 (160, 182, 200, 218, 236) sts. Work even in St st until piece measures 16" (40.5 cm) from CO or desired length to underarm and at the same time work the last 2 rnds as foll:
RND 1: Knit to last 4 sts, BO 4 sts.
RND 2: BO 4 sts, knit to 4 sts before m, BO 8 sts, removing m as you come to it, knit to end—126 (144, 166, 184, 202, 220) sts rem; 63 (72, 83, 92, 101, 110) sts each for front and back.
Do not cut yarn.
Join For Yoke
Pm, k44 (46, 50, 56, 58, 60) held sleeve sts, pm, k63 (72, 83, 92, 101, 110) front sts, pm, k44 (46, 50, 56, 58, 60) held sleeve sts, pm, k63 (72, 83, 92, 101, 110) back sts—214 (236, 266, 296, 318, 340) sts total.
DEC RND: *K1, k2tog, knit to 3 sts before m, ssk, k1, sl m; rep from * 3 more times—8 sts dec’d.
Knit 1 rnd even. Rep the last 2 rnds 1 (1, 2, 3, 3, 3) more time(s)—198 (220, 242, 264, 286, 308) sts rem.
SHORT-ROW SET-UP ROW: K17, pm, knit to next m, remove m, knit to next m, remove m, knit to 17 sts before next m, pm, knit to next m, remove m, knit to end of rnd.
Work short-rows (see Short-Rows instructions) as foll:
SHORT-ROW 1: Knit to 1 st before first m, wrap next st, turn work.
SHORT-ROW 2: (WS) Purl to end-of-rnd m, sl m, purl to 1 st before next m, wrap next st, turn work.
SHORT-ROW 3: Knit to 8 sts before last wrapped st (slipping m when you come to it), wrap next st, turn work.
SHORT-ROW 4: Purl to 8 sts before last wrapped st (slipping m when you come to it), wrap next st, turn work.
Rep Short-Rows 3 and 4 four (five, five, five, five, five) more times.
NEXT RND: With RS facing, knit to end of rnd, working wraps tog with wrapped sts as you go.
Knit 1 rnd, working rem wraps tog with wrapped sts.
Sizes 48½ (52½)" (123 [133.5] cm) only
Work even in St st for ½ (¾)" (1.3 [2] cm).
All sizes
DEC RND: *K1, k2tog, k17, ssk; rep from *—180 (200, 220, 240, 260, 280) sts rem.
Fair Isle Yoke
Work Rnds 1–9 of Lower Yoke chart.
DEC RND 1: With CC4, work as specified for your size:
Size 31½" (80 cm) only: *K7, k2tog; rep from *—160 sts rem.
Size 35½" (90 cm) only: *K6, k2tog, k6, k2tog, k7, k2tog; rep from *—176 sts rem.
Size 40½" (103 cm) only: K2tog, k4, *k2tog, k6; rep from * to last 6 sts, k2tog, k4—192 sts rem.
Size 44½" (113 cm) only: *K5, k2tog, k6, k2tog; rep from *—208 sts rem.
Size 48½" (123 cm) only: *[K5, k2tog] 3 times, k6, k2tog; rep from * to last 28 sts, [k5, k2tog] 4 times—224 sts rem.
Size 52½" (133.5 cm) only: *K5, k2tog; rep from *—240 sts rem.
Work Rnds 1–16 of Middle Yoke chart.
DEC RND 2: With CC4, work as specified for your size:
Sizes 31½(35½, 40½, 44½)" (80 [90, 103, 113] cm) only: *K2, k2tog; rep from *—120 (132, 144, 156) sts rem.
Size 48½" (123 cm) only: *K1, k2tog, k2, k2tog; rep from *—160 sts rem.
Size 52½" (133.5 cm) only: *K1, k2tog; rep from * —160 sts rem.
Work Rnds 1–9 of Upper Yoke chart.
DEC RND 3: With MC, work as specified for your size:
Size 31½" (80 cm) only: *K2, k2tog; rep from *—90 sts rem.
Sizes 35½ (40½, 44½, 48½, 52½)" (90 [103, 113, 123, 133.5] cm) only: *K1, k2tog; rep from * to last 0 (0, 0, 4, 4) sts, knit to end—88 (96, 104, 108, 108) sts rem.
Neckband
Change to smaller, shorter cir needle. Rep Rnds 1 and 2 of broken rib patt 2 times, then work Rnd 1 once more. BO all sts.
Finishing
Weave in loose en
ds. Block to measurements.
Sleeve
Upper Yoke
Middle Yoke
Lower Yoke
Abigail Hand Warmers
DESIGNED BY COURTNEY KELLEY
These hand warmers are a nice update on traditional Norwegian Selbu mittens and gloves. The name Selbu is taken from the mountainous region around Lake Selbu where the design style was popularized for the tourist trade in the mid-1800s. Historically, Selbu mittens were knitted in an intricate symmetrical pattern of black and white, featuring the star-point and rose motifs popular in decorative folk arts of the region. The pattern in this pair, inspired by a Victorian-era wallpaper print, adds a bit of feminine flair and vintage appeal without losing the traditional look or feel. Worked in mint green and plum, they bring a touch of spring warmth to a cold winter day. An extralong cuff keeps wrists warm with old-fashioned elegance.
Vintage Modern Knits Page 5