NEXT ROW: (WS; buttonhole row) Work Row 1 of Parallelogram chart to last 8 sts, pm, k3, BO 3 sts, knit to end.
On the next row, use the cable method (see Glossary) to CO 3 sts over gap formed on previous row. Rep buttonhole on every Row 1 of chart to beg of neck shaping. At the same time work in patt until Rows 1–16 of chart have been worked 1 (1, 2, 2, 3, 3, 4) time(s), then shape waist as foll: Cont in patt, [dec 1 st at side edge on Row 2 and Row 10 of patt] 3 times as foll: Work in patt to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1—1 st dec’d each dec row; 6 sts dec’d total. Work Rows 11–16, then work Rows 1–9 once more. Cont in patt, [inc 1 st at side edge on Row 10 and Row 2 of patt] 3 times as foll: Work in patt to last 2 sts, k1f&b, k1—1 st inc’d each inc row; 6 sts inc’d total.
Insert Pocket
Also at the same time when the 16-row rep has been worked 3 times (48 patt rows), work Row 1 once more, then insert pocket lining as foll: (Row 2 of patt) Work 27 sts in patt, place next 30 sts on a holder, k30 held pocket lining sts, work in patt to end of row while working waist shaping as established.
Also at the same time cont in patt until the 16-row rep has been worked 7 (7, 5, 5, 5, 4, 4) times total, work Row 1 once more, then beg neck shaping.
Shape Neck
Note: Armhole shaping beg before neck shaping ends; read the foll sections all the way through before proceeding.
Dec for neck on Row 2 and Row 10 of patt for your size as foll.
Size 31" (78.5 cm) only
ON ROWS 2 AND 10: Knit to m, k1, ssk, work in patt to end—1 st dec’d each row.
Rep these 2 rows 4 more times—10 sts dec’d.
NEXT ROW 2: Knit to m, k1, ssk, work in patt to end—1 st dec’d.
NEXT ROW 10: Knit to m, k1, sssk (see Glossary), work in patt to end—2 sts dec’d.
Rep these 2 rows 2 more times, then work Row 2 once more—10 sts dec’d; 20 neck sts dec’d total.
Size 34" (86.5 cm) only
ON ROW 2: Knit to m, k1, ssk, work in patt to end—1 st dec’d.
ON ROW 10: Knit to m, k1, sssk (see Glossary), work in patt to end—2 sts dec’d.
Rep these 2 rows 8 more times—27 sts dec’d.
NEXT ROW 2: Knit to m, k1, sssk, work in patt to end—2 sts dec’d; 29 neck sts dec’d total.
Size 36½" (92.5 cm) only
ON ROW 2: Knit to m, k1, ssk, work in patt to end—1 st dec’d.
ON ROW 10: Knit to m, k1, sssk (see Glossary), work in patt to end—2 sts dec’d.
Rep these 2 rows 4 more times—15 sts dec’d.
NEXT ROWS 2 AND 10: Knit to m, k1, sssk, work in patt to end—2 sts dec’d each row.
Rep these 2 rows 5 more times—24 sts dec’d; 39 neck sts dec’d total.
Size 39" (99 cm) only
ON ROW 2: Knit to m, k1, ssk, work in patt to end—1 st dec’d.
ON ROW 10: Knit to m, k1, sssk (see Glossary), work in patt to end—2 sts dec’d.
Rep these 2 rows 2 more times—9 sts dec’d.
NEXT ROWS 2 AND 10: Knit to m, k1, sssk, work in patt to end—2 sts dec’d each row.
Rep these 2 rows 8 more times—36 sts dec’d; 45 neck sts dec’d total.
Size 41½" (105.5 cm) only
ON ROWS 2 AND 10: Knit to m, k1, ssk, work in patt to end—1 st dec’d each row; 2 sts dec’d total.
NEXT ROWS 2 AND 10: Knit to m, k1, sssk (see Glossary), work in patt to end—2 sts dec’d each row.
Rep these 2 rows 11 more times—48 sts dec’d; 50 neck sts dec’d total.
Sizes 44 (46½)" (112 [118] cm) only
ON ROW 2: Knit to m, k1, ssk, work in patt to end—1 st dec’d.
ON ROW 10: Knit to m, k1, sssk (see Glossary), work in patt to end—2 sts dec’d; 3 sts dec’d total.
NEXT ROWS 2 AND 10: Knit to m, k1, sssk, work in patt to end—2 sts dec’d each row.
Rep these 2 rows 12 (13) more times, then work Row 2 zero (one) more time—52 (58) sts dec’d; 55 (61) neck sts dec’d total.
All sizes
At the same time work until piece measures same as back to armhole, ending with row 16 of patt.
Shape Armhole
Cont working neck shaping, at armhole edge (beg of WS row), BO 7 (8, 8, 9, 9, 12, 12) sts.
DEC ROW: (RS) Work to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1—1 armhole st dec’d.
Dec 1 st at armhole edge every RS row in this manner 5 (5, 5, 6, 9, 9, 9) more times. Work until armhole measures 6½ (7, 7½, 8, 8½, 9, 9½)" (16.5 [18, 19, 20.5, 21.5, 23, 24] cm), ending with a RS row—36 (36, 36, 38, 40, 42, 46) sts rem when all armhole and neck shaping is complete.
Shape Shoulder
Cont in patt, at armhole edge (beg of WS rows), BO 10 (10, 10, 10, 12, 12, 14) sts once, then BO 10 (10, 10, 10, 10, 12, 12) sts once, then BO 8 (8, 8, 10, 10, 10, 12) sts once—8 sts rem for buttonhole band. Place sts on holder.
Sleeves
With smaller needles, CO 51 (51, 51, 51, 61, 61, 71) sts. Work in garter st for 10 rows. Change to larger needles. Work Rows 1–9 of Parallelogram chart.
INC ROW: (Row 10 of chart) K1, M1 (see Mirrored Increases), work to last st, M1, k1—2 sts inc’d.
Rep inc row on every Row 2 and Row 10 of chart until a total of 20 (20, 20, 24, 24, 24, 24) inc rows have been worked, working new sts into patt—91 (91, 91, 99, 109, 109, 119) sts. Cont even in patt until piece measures 19" (48.5 cm) from CO or desired length to underarm, ending with a WS row.
Shape Cap
BO 7 (8, 8, 9, 9, 12, 12) sts at beg of next 2 rows—77 (75, 75, 81, 91, 85, 95) sts rem.
DEC ROW: (RS) K1, ssk, work in patt to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1—2 sts dec’d.
Working the first 3 and last 3 sts in St st and the center sts in patt as established, rep dec row every RS row 7 (7, 7, 9, 9, 11, 13) more times—61 (59, 59, 61, 71, 61, 67) sts rem. Rep dec row every 4th row 6 (6, 8, 8, 10, 10, 12) times—49 (47, 43, 45, 51, 41, 43) sts rem. Rep dec row every RS row 6 (6, 8, 8, 10, 10, 12) times—37 (35, 27, 29, 31, 21, 19) sts rem.
Sizes 31 (34)" (78.5 [86.5] cm) only
NEXT ROW: (RS) K1, ssk, work in patt to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1—2 sts dec’d.
NEXT ROW: (WS) P1, p2tog, work in patt to last 3 sts, ssp (see Glossary), p1—2 sts dec’d.
Rep the last 2 rows 4 more times—17 (15) sts rem.
All sizes
BO 2 sts at the beg of the next 4 rows—9 (7, 19, 21, 23, 13, 11) sts rem. BO all sts.
Finishing
Weave in loose ends. Block to measurements. With yarn threaded on a tapestry needle, sew fronts to back at shoulders. Sew sleeve caps into armholes. Sew sleeve and side seams.
Pocket Edging
With RS facing, place 30 held pocket sts onto smaller needles. Work 6 rows in garter st. With RS facing, BO all sts pwise. Sew sides of pocket edging to sweater front. Sew pocket lining to WS of sweater.
Neckband
Place 8 left front buttonband sts on smaller needle. With WS facing, *k7, sl 1 kwise with yarn in front (wyf), pick up and purl (see Glossary) 1 st along back neck, psso. Turn work, sl 1 with yarn in back (wyb), k7; rep from * to center of back neck, picking up 4 sts total along shaped edge and 8 (10, 13, 14, 14, 14, 15) sts evenly spaced across back neck BO. Place sts on holder.
Place 8 right front buttonhole band sts on smaller needle. With RS facing, *k7, sl 1 kwise wyb, pick up and knit 1 st along back neck, psso. Turn work, k8; rep from * to center of back neck, picking up 4 sts total along shaped edge and 8 (10, 13, 14, 14, 14, 15) sts evenly spaced across back neck BO.
With yarn threaded on a tapestry needle and using grafting for garter st (see Grafting for Garter Stitch), graft 8 buttonband sts to 8 buttonhole band sts.
Baltic Mittens + Beret
DESIGNED BY KATE GAGNON OSBORN
Color-stranded knitwear designs produced by the Swedish Bohus Knitting Workshop were famous in the late 1930s to the 1960s for their attention to detail, innovative design and color, and exacting standards of craftsmanship. Traditionally worked in a fine-weight blend of angora and merino that created a gorgeous halo, the color-s
tranded patterns were punctuated with purl stitches and sometimes a third—or fourth or fifth—color per row. While different from authentic Bohus knitting in fiber content and gauge, this mitten-and-beret set takes inspiration from that beautiful work by combining four tones of fingering-weight yarn in a geometric pattern accented by purl stitches and a third color every few rounds for optimal effect. The mittens have a stockinette-stitch lining that provides an additional layer of warmth and softness.
Materials
yarn
Fingering weight (#1 Super Fine).
shown here: The Fibre Company Canopy Fingering (50% baby alpaca, 30% merino wool, 20% bamboo; 200 yd [183 m]/50 g): blue quandons (MC), 2 skeins; palm bud (lavender; CC1), fern (green; CC2), and orchid (white; CC3), 1 skein each.
needles
mitten hand: size U.S. 3 (3.25 mm): set of 4 or 5 double-pointed (dpn).
mitten cuff and lining: size U.S. 1 (2.25 mm): set of 4 or 5 dpn.
beret body: size U.S. 3 (3.25 mm): set of 4 or 5 dpn and 20" (50 cm) circular (cir).
beret ribbing: size U.S. 1 (2.25 mm): 16" (40 cm) cir.
Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.
notions
Smooth waste yarn of comparable gauge; markers (m); stitch holders; tapestry needle.
gauge
31 stitches and 33 rounds = 4" (10 cm) in charted pattern on larger needles, worked in rounds.
finished size
mittens: About 8½" (21.5 cm) outer mitten circumference and 11" (28 cm) long. To fit 7½" (19 cm) palm circumference.
beret: About 16" (40.5 cm) unstretched brim circumference, 21" (53.5 cm) stretched brim circumference, 24¾" (63 cm) widest circumference, and 8½" (21.5 cm) long from cast-on to top of beret.
Bohus Knitting Tips
Bohus knitting is deceptively simple—there are just a few things to keep in mind for optimum results.
•After purling a stitch, be sure to move the yarn to the back of the work before knitting the next stitch.
•When working with more than two colors per row, it is imperative to assign “placement” of the yarns as they are carried across the back of the work. Instead of just one yarn carried “over” and another carried “under,” you will also have a yarn carried in the middle. Be sure to maintain constant placement of these yarns throughout the row.
•When choosing your own color combination, consider how yarns interact with one another in the colorwork pattern as well as how the purl stitch will affect the color it “pops up” from the row below.
•For the mittens, carry the unused yarns up the inside of the work—there is no need to cut and weave in additional ends because the lining will hide the inside of your work. Additionally, prior to starting the decreases on the mitten lining (after you’ve knitted an inch or so above the thumb opening), take the time to weave in all remaining ends (except for your working yarn, of course!). Once the top of hand and thumb are finished off, you will not have access to the inside (WS) of your work.
Mittens
Hand
With MC, waste yarn, smaller dpn, and using a provisional method (see Glossary), CO 58 sts. Arrange sts as evenly as possible on 3 or 4 dpn, place marker (pm), and join for working in rnds, being careful not to twist sts. Work Rnds 1–9 of Mitten chart, inc as indicated on chart—66 sts. Change to larger dpn. Work Rnds 10–47 of chart.
Thumb Opening
Work next rnd (Rnd 48 of chart) as foll:
RIGHT MITTEN: Work in patt to right thumb sts, place 11 thumb sts on holder, use the backward-loop method (see Glossary) and MC to CO 11 sts over held sts, work in patt to end of rnd.
Mitten
* Work as given in directions
Downolad the charts for this project here.
Thumb
LEFT MITTEN: Work in patt to left thumb sts, place 11 thumb sts on holder, use the backward-loop method and MC to CO 11 sts over held sts, work in patt to end of rnd.
BOTH MITTENS: Work Rnds 49–93 of chart, dec as indicated—26 sts rem. Arrange the sts so that 13 front-of-hand sts are on 1 dpn and 13 back-of-hand sts are on a second dpn. Holding the needles parallel with WS facing tog, use the Kitchener st (see Glossary) to graft the sts tog.
Thumb
Pick up sts as foll.
RIGHT MITTEN: Transfer 11 held thumb sts onto dpn. With MC and RS facing, k11 thumb sts, pick up and knit 1 st at side of thumb opening and 11 sts along CO sts, pm to indicate beg of rnd (this is important for hand and thumb patts to match), and pick up and knit 1 st at other side of thumb opening—24 sts total.
LEFT MITTEN: Transfer 11 held thumb sts onto dpn. With MC and RS facing, k11 thumb sts, pick up and knit 1 st at side of thumb opening, 11 sts along CO sts, and 1 st at other side of thumb opening, pm to indicate beg of rnd—24 sts total.
BOTH MITTENS: Work Rnds 1–20 of Thumb chart—6 sts rem. Cut yarn, thread tail through rem sts, pull tight to close hole, and fasten off on WS. Weave in loose ends.
Lining
Remove waste yarn from provisional CO and carefully place exposed sts on smaller dpn—58 sts. Arrange sts as evenly as possible on 3 or 4 dpn, pm, and join for working in rnds. Work even in St st (knit every rnd) until piece measures 4½" (11.5 cm) from garter ridge at cuff.
Right Mitten
Knit to last 14 sts, place 9 sts on holder, use the backward-loop method to CO 9 sts over held sts, k5 to end of rnd.
Left Mitten
K5, place 9 sts on holder, use the backward-loop method to CO 9 sts over held sts, knit to end of rnd.
Both Mittens
Cont even until piece measures 8" (20.5 cm) from garter ridge at cuff. Weave in loose ends (see Bohus Knitting Tips).
NEXT RND: K29, pm, knit to end.
DEC RND: *Ssk, knit to 2 sts before m, k2tog; rep from * once—4 sts dec’d.
Work 1 rnd even. Rep the last 2 rnds 3 more times—42 sts rem. Rep dec rnd every rnd 6 times—18 sts rem. Arrange the sts so that 9 front-of-hand sts are on 1 dpn and 9 back-of-hand sts are on a second dpn. Holding the needles parallel with WS facing tog, use the Kitchener st to graft the sts tog.
Thumb (both mittens)
Transfer 9 held thumb sts onto smaller dpn. With MC and RS facing, k9 thumb sts, pick up and knit 1 st at side of thumb opening and 9 sts along CO sts, pm, pick up and knit 1 st at other side of thumb opening—20 sts total. Work even in St st until thumb measures 1¾" (4.5 cm) from pick-up rnd.
NEXT RND: K10, pm, knit to end.
DEC RND: *Ssk, knit to 2 sts before m, k2tog; rep from * once—4 sts dec’d.
Rep dec rnd every rnd 2 more times—8 sts rem.
NEXT RND: *Ssk, k2tog; rep from * once—4 sts rem.
Cut yarn, thread tail through rem sts, pull tight to close hole, and fasten off on WS. Weave in loose ends.
BERET
With MC and smaller cir needle, CO 144 sts. Place marker (pm) and join for working in rnds, being careful not to twist sts. Work in k1, p1 rib until piece measures 1¼" (3.2 cm) from CO.
INC RND: *K2, k1f&b (see Glossary); rep from * to end—192 sts.
Change to larger cir needle. Work Rnds 1–66 of Beret chart, changing to dpn when necessary—8 sts rem.
Finishing
Cut yarn, thread tail through rem sts, pull tight to close hole, and fasten off on WS. Weave in loose ends. Block to measurements.
Beret
Innsbruck
Mittens + Leg Warmers
DESIGNED BY COURTNEY KELLEY and KATE GAGNON OSBORN
These mittens take their name from the capital of the western region of Austria, known as Tyrol, the other half of the historical Tyrolean region being Tirol in northern Italy. They feature twisted-stitch cables and embroidery in the style popularly referred to as Tyrolean knitting. The embroidered flowers on these mittens and leg warmers call to mind the wildflowers in bloom along the windswept Alps, which also inspired the intricately embroidered dirndl dresses that make up the historic women’s costumes of the region. The embroidery, added i
n the spaces between the twisted stitches, is worked in a fingering-weight version of the yarn used to knit the pieces.
Materials
yarn
Worsted weight (#4 Medium) for mittens and leg warmers; fingering weight (#1 Super Fine) for embroidery.
shown here: The Fibre Company Canopy Worsted (50% baby alpaca, 30% merino wool, 20% bamboo; 100 yd [91 m]/50 g): palm bud (pale blue; MC), 5 skeins. The Fibre Company Canopy Fingering (50% baby alpaca, 30% merino wool, 20% bamboo; 200 yd [183 m]/50 g): plum (CC1), cat’s claw (yellow; CC2), and yerba mate (green; CC3), 1 skein each.
needles
mitten cuff: size U.S. 4 (3.5 mm): set of 5 double-pointed (dpn).
mitten hand: size U.S. 5 (3.75 mm): set of 5 dpn.
Vintage Modern Knits Page 7