THE COOKIES
This is the recipe I always use (it makes good Christmas tree decorations, too, if you have those special cutters and remember to make a hole at the top before baking them). It’s rather like a gingerbread, only not as hot, and you can leave out the cinnamon if you like. Some fresh nutmeg grated in works well for a gentler spiciness. The dough rolls out easily. The cookies are not frangible when cooked and take icing well. Children seem to like them, as they eat the whole cookie rather than just licking off the icing.
If you want to make them chocolate-flavored, use 2¼ cups flour and ¼ cup unsweetened cocoa.
2½ cups all-purpose flour
pinch salt
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon powdered cinnamon (optional) or nutmeg (see headnote)
8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, diced
½ cup light muscovado sugar or light brown sugar
2 eggs
2 tablespoons golden syrup
Sift the flour, salt, and baking powder into a bowl. Add the cinnamon or nutmeg if using. Rub in the butter, then stir in the sugar. With a fork, stir 1 egg into the golden syrup and add to the mixture, beating well. I like doing this by hand (or with a freestanding mixer), especially if I’m making it with the children, but you can just do it in the processor, mixing all but the last two ingredients and then pouring those together down the feed tube. If needed, add the second, beaten, egg a teaspoonful at a time.
When the dough’s come together, form into 2 discs and put 1, covered in plastic film or in a freezer bag, in the fridge while you get started on the first. Preheat the oven to 325°F.
Now, this dough is fairly sticky at first and there is a good reason for this—so that you can get a maximum amount of cookies, it needs to be able to absorb quite a lot of flour without becoming too dry. Be prepared to flour the surface, the dough, and the rolling pin well, and bear in mind that the dough will get smoother as you roll and reroll. Not a shred need be wasted. Anyway, this isn’t a difficult procedure, as you’ll see.
Roll out to about ¼-inch thick and cut the cookies out as you wish, reclumping, rerolling, and recutting all leftovers till you have no dough left. You may find it easier to leave some leftovers from the first disc of dough and then add them to the leftovers from the second—in effect, giving yourself three discs to roll out in total.
The cookies take 12–20 minutes to cook. They’re golden brown anyway, so you can’t tell when they’re cooked exactly by color. You don’t want them to burn, so keep an eye on the edges and prod them with your fingertips occasionally—they shouldn’t have any feeling of uncooked dough about them, but neither should they be rigid; they will harden as they cool. Don’t get anxious about this—as long as they’re not soft to the point of rawness, they should be fine.
Let cool on a rack and, if you want, leave in an airtight tin until you want to ice them. I find this makes on average 60 cookies, but naturally it depends on the shape and size of the cutters. (I don’t go in for novelty-shaped or ostentatiously childish food as a rule, but I do have a huge supply of cookie cutters in just about every form available: geometric, animals, modes of transport; all fads and fancies covered. And when I was rootling about a party shop with a specialty cake-decoration wing, I found that one of the pieces in the cutting set sold for fashioning sweet peas out of icing is the perfect shape for stamping out pumpkins.)
GLACÉ ICING
To make glacé icing for these, mix 2½ cups confectioners’ sugar with about 3 tablespoons boiling water and drops of food coloring strewn with sprinkles—don’t ask me how many.
FISH SANDWICHES
Fish sandwiches are much loved by children. If you want to make them, then just mix some mayonnaise, the bottled stuff, with some canned salmon. But I have come to the conclusion that sandwiches are primarily there to placate the parents; they act as a nutritional sop, making the grownups feel better about all the sweet stuff that the children are really eating—it thus looks like a proper meal, not the full-on sugar orgy it is. So I wouldn’t bother to do plateful upon plateful. But make sure you remove all crusts and, just this once, whatever your normal aesthetic, cut them into little triangles. Sometimes the proprieties have to be respected; a children’s party is no place for restraint or minimalist chic. Just provide what your child enjoys, what he or she dreams of, and you will enjoy it too.
Glossary
BOUILLON CUBES AND COMMERCIAL STOCKS. Most everyone knows what bouillon cubes are—chicken, meat, or vegetable stock (this includes porcini stock) in dehydrated and compressed form. It is important to remember, however, that not all bouillon cubes are created equal. Some produce stock of good flavor, others a chemical-tasting or overly salty brew. Always taste the stock made from a particular brand of bouillon cube before adding it to a recipe. (The cubes are rehydrated with boiling water, usually in the proportion of 1 cube to 2 cups water.) A wide range of alternative commercial stocks exists, from canned supermarket items to frozen or carton-packed, to be used as is or reconstituted, as instructed on their packages. These often yield stocks of flavor superior to that produced by bouillon cubes and should be investigated.
CAPERS. The sun-dried flower buds of a bush native to Asia and the Mediterranean, these add piquancy to a wide range of dishes. They vary in size from sub-pea to as large as your little fingernail. They are available preserved in vinegar or salt; though salt-packed capers are harder to find, it’s worth seeking them out, as their flavor is deeper and their texture less squishy than the vinegar-packed kinds. All capers should be rinsed well under running water before using; the salt-packed also should be steeped in cold water for at least five minutes.
CHESTNUTS. Grown throughout the world, chestnuts are notoriously bothersome to shell and, once you’ve done that, you confront their bitter inner skins, which must be removed also. That’s why I rely on ready-prepared canned or bottled whole chestnuts. Packed cooked, dry or in water, these may be used interchangeably in the recipes. I also use canned unsweetened chestnut purée; do not confuse this with the sweetened variety, which is not suitable for savory dishes.
CREAM, CLOTTED. The British cream repertoire is much more diverse than the American and includes this thick, extraordinarily buttery type. Widely available in American specialty food stores, imported clotted cream (sometimes labeled Devonshire cream) comes in glass jars. The cream is taken from the top of fresh, unpasteurized cream when it is gently heated and then allowed to cool.
DASHI-NO-MOTO. This is the umbrella term for Japanese instant dashi, the basic stock of Japanese cooking. It comes in two forms, granulated and liquid, and I call for both at one time or another. The granulated kind, often labeled hon-dashi (“true dashi”), is made from dried ground bonito and other seasonings and is prepared, generally, in the proportion of 1 level teaspoon to 4 cups simmering water—but always see the recipe I use it in for exact quantity information. Liquid dashi-no-moto, which is sometimes labeled “seasoning sauce” or katsuo dashi, is also made with bonito and seasonings; follow the instructions in the recipe for using it. Please be aware that both products almost invariably contain monosodium glutamate (MSG); those allergic or adverse to the substance might wish to prepare and freeze their own dashi, a simple process (see any Japanese cookbook). In a pinch, a concentrated chicken stock could be substituted for dashi-no-moto, but the flavor of the dish using it will, obviously, differ from that intended.
DUCK, MALLARD. A richly flavored wild duck, mallards make wonderful eating. Unless you are a hunter, however, or know someone who is and is willing to share a wild-duck catch, you will have to rely on commercial mallard distribution (see Sources). These farmed mallards are available seasonally from October through February and, unlike domestic duck varieties, are rather small—2 to 2½ pounds each.
FLOUR, ITALIAN 00 (FARINA DOPIA ZERO). I’m a great fan of this low-protein flour (about 3 grams for every 4 ounces, as opposed to 8 to 14 grams of all-purpose flour for the same amount). Because it is
softer than regular flours—contains less gluten and therefore produces less elastic doughs when worked—it yields tender cakes and pastries and velvety sauces. (You can, however, substitute all-purpose flour for it with fine results.) Incidentally, the 00 indicates the degree of sifting for bran and grain that the flour has undergone, according to Italian flour-production standards; 00 is the finest sift, 0 slightly coarser, and on through 1 and 2, the coarsest flour designation.
FLOUR, SPELT. Spelt is a cereal grain native to Southern Europe, where it has been cultivated since ancient times. The flour made from it has a mellow nutty flavor and is slightly higher in protein than flours made from wheat. Many people who find ordinary wheat flours difficult to tolerate have no problem digesting baked goods made with spelt flour, even though it contains gluten.
GELATIN, LEAF. This is the only kind of gelatin I have luck with and I refuse to use any other type. I am, however, willing to admit that for other people, the granulated kind is more convenient and produces, under their care, completely satisfactory results. I therefore offer the option of using the latter in all the recipes calling for gelatin; the usual conversion is 6 sheets equals 1 package (¼ ounce) of granulated gelatin—enough to gel 2 cups of liquid—but see each recipe that requires the sheets for specific conversion quantities. Leaf gelatin is available in packages of thin, transparent sheets, usually imported, and needs a little longer soaking to soften it for use than the granulated kind.
GROUSE. The Glorious Twelfth—August 12th—is what the British call the much-anticipated opening day of their grouse-hunting season, which ends on December 31st. That such acknowledgment exists gives some idea of the British love of grouse, a true game bird with darker and more flavorful meat than that of partridge, its close cousin. In the States the birds are commercially available, imported, in the fall (see Sources) and run to about a pound each. Though expensive, they are a royal treat and worth seeking out. In lieu of grouse, however, use poussin or Cornish hen; these possess, obviously, a different, much milder flavor than grouse, but will work nicely in the recipes designed for grouse.
MUSCAT WINE. The muscat grape produces both dry and sweet wines with varying degrees of alcohol in them, but it is the sweet I refer to and use for a number of the recipes. Of these sweet wines, two stand out: Moscata d’Asti and Muscat de Baumes de Venise. The former is a delicately sweet, slightly effervescent wine from Italy’s Piedmont region; the latter, from the southern Rhône valley in France, is golden, rich, and luscious. But any muscat wine of good quality—taste before adding!—can be used, which group includes a number of good California dessert wines.
OIL, GARLIC-INFUSED. This and other flavored oils are now widely available in supermarkets. Some gastro-purists turn up their delicate noses at such innovations, but they can be a boon to the time-starved or ordinarily exhausted cook. And as with all produce, standards vary. Sample to settle on a brand you like.
POMEGRANATE MOLASSES. Used by cooks from the Mediterranean to the Caucasus, this tangy syrup, made usually from the fruit only with the addition of lemon juice, has a rich, molasses-like flavor. In addition to the purposes to which I put it, it can be used for glazing grilled food, in a salad dressing, and to give depth of flavor to a variety of dishes.
SUET. A British cookery mainstay, though not as common as it once was, suet is, unglamorously, the solid white fat found around the kidneys and loins of beef, sheep, and other animals. It produces pie crusts and pastries that are wonderfully delicate and I urge you to try it. Having said this, you will need a sympathetic butcher to provide you with suet, which needs to be ground or chopped finely before using. In Britain, suet is sold commercially, most famously under the Atora label, but I’m not certain that I entirely trust these products: where has the suet come from, I ask myself, and how healthy are the animals who have given it? (Atora also markets “vegetable suet,” and this can be used without compunction.) The choice to use these undeniably convenient products is, however, up to you (see Sources).
SUGAR, DEMERARA. This large-crystal, toffee-colored sugar is from the Demerara area of Guyana. Because of its crunchy texture it makes a perfect topping for muffins, cakes, cookies, and other desserts; it has been long used in Europe, also, as a coffee sweetener.
SUGAR, GOLDEN CASTER. Actually beige in color, this unrefined sugar from Mauritius has very fine crystals. I use it in baking, but it is also lovely sprinkled over fruit and other desserts, or used to sweeten drinks.
SUGAR, MUSCOVADO. I predict that once tasted, this richly flavorful sugar, long favored in Britain, will replace in popularity the traditional brown sugars to which most American cooks are accustomed. Muscovado (or Barbados) sugar is available in both light and dark styles. The light muscovado is relatively fine-grained, moderately rich in natural molasses (which gives both the light and dark sugars their color and flavor), and can be used whenever light brown sugar is called for. It has a wonderfully fudgy depth and flavor. Because of its greater molasses content, dark muscovado is more fully flavored than the light and stickier in texture. It evokes the aroma and taste of gingerbread. Store both kinds as you would regular brown sugar, in tightly sealed plastic bags or airtight containers.
SYRUP, GOLDEN. The English dote on this sweetener, which is also known as light treacle. First produced during the last World War as a honey substitute and made from evaporated sugar-cane juice, golden syrup has a deep, rich flavor unlike that of any other syrup. It is widely available in American supermarkets—the favored brand is Lyle’s—and is used in baking or as a topping. Note that cookbooks often advise you to substitute light corn syrup for golden syrup; the latter has little of the sweetening power, not to mention flavor of the former—keep this in mind!
YEAST, COMPRESSED FRESH. I favor compressed yeast, which comes in small (0.06-ounce) cakes, for its handling pleasure and the sense of continuity with age-old baking traditions it provides. It can be used in my recipes without proofing; just add it to the dry ingredients and go. Because fresh yeast is extremely perishable, however, always check package expiration dates before you buy and use it promptly, within two weeks of purchase. You can find it in refrigerated cases of many supermarkets; store it similarly.
Sources
Balducci’s
424 Sixth Avenue
New York, NY 10011
212 673-2600 or 800 225-3822
Italian products, including porcini bouillon cubes, pandoro, and savoiardi; also Italian 00 flour
Bangkok Market
104 Mosco Street
New York, NY 10013
212 349-1979
Thai products, including tom yam and pork bouillon cubes
Bel Canto Fancy Foods Ltd.
57-01 49th Place
Maspeth, NY 11378
718 417-8323 or 718 497-3888
Italian 00 flour
Bridge Kitchenware Corp.
214 East 52nd Street
New York, NY 10022
212 838-1901 or 212 838-6746
www.bridgekitchenware.com
kitchen equipment, including blini pans
Chelsea Market Basket
75 Ninth Avenue
New York, NY 10111
888 727-7887
Cottage Delight mayonnaise and other products
D’Artagnan, Inc.
280 Wilson Avenue
Newark, NJ 07105
800 DARTAGN or 973 344-0565
www.dartagnan.com
grouse, mallard ducks
Dean & DeLuca
560 Broadway
New York, NY 10012
800 999-0306 or 212 226-6800
www.dean-deluca.com
English cheeses; Italian products, including salt-packed capers, canned cranberry (borlotti) beans, and spaghetti di farro; also pomegranate molasses
Harrington’s of Vermont, Inc.
210 East Main Street
Richmond, VT 05477
800 434-4444
www.haringtonham.stores.yahoo.com
slab
bacon and other smoked meats
India Tree Gourmet Spices and Specialties
4240 Gilman Place West #B
Seattle, WA 98199
800 369-4848
muscovado sugar
Katagiri
254 East 59th Street
New York, NY 10022
212 752-4197
Japanese products, including noodles, dried seaweeds, and dashi-no-moto
King Arthur Flour
PO Box 876
Norwich, VT 05055-0876
800 827-6836
www.kingarthurflour.com
baking goods and equipment of all kinds, including Cook-Eze baking liners
Myers of Keswick
634 Hudson Street
212 691-4194
New York, NY 10014
English products, including Atora suet and Christmas pudding
Simpson & Vale, Inc.
3 Quarry Road
Brookfield, CT 06804
800 282-8327
caster sugar
Williams Sonoma
PO Box 7456
San Francisco, CA 94120
800 541-2233
www.williams-sonoma.com
English Christmas pudding and other food products
Bibliography
Books referred to in the preceding pages are listed below. British and Australian publications can be ordered from Books for Cooks, London, at 171 221 1992 (phone) or www.booksforcooks.com.
Allen, Darina. Irish Traditional Cooking. Trafalgar Square, 1998.
Alexander, Stephanie. The Cook’s Companion. Viking Australia, 1996.
Bhumchitr, Vatcharin. Vatch’s Southeast Asian Cookbook. St. Martin’s Press, 1997.
Borrel, Anne, Alain Senderens, and Jean-Bernard Naudin. Dining with Proust. Ebury, 1992.
Boxer, Arabella. The Herb Book. Thunder Bay Press, 1996.
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