I did have love on my side, right next to me. And without fear holding me back, I could do anything I set my mind on. But as much as I loved this winter wonderland, I was really looking forward to spring—the season of renewal where everything grows and thrives.
Recipes for Friendship
JEAN-LUC’S TARTIFLETTE
Prep time: 15 minutes
Cook time: 45 minutes
Serves: 4 for a main course, 8 as a side dish
Great for: a winter meal or a side dish with poultry
Wine suggestion: Sauvignon Blanc
•8 to 10 medium-sized red potatoes
•1½ cups chopped lardons or pancetta, cubed
•1 medium onion, sliced in rounds and halved
•2 to 3 cloves garlic, de-germed and finely minced
•3 healthy pinches herbes de Provence
•⅛ teaspoon ground nutmeg
•¾ cup crème fraîche or sour cream
•½ cup dry white wine
•1 round Reblochon cheese, or 1 round brie as a substitution*
•Extra virgin olive oil
•Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Preheat oven to 350°F. Bring a large pot of lightly salted water to a boil. Peel potatoes, if preferred. Boil for 12 to 16 minutes until the potatoes are soft enough to be pierced with a fork, but not cooked through. Drain, set aside, and let cool. In a pan, cook lardons until golden, around 4 minutes. Add the onion and garlic to the pan, cooking for another 5 minutes. Set aside. Once cool enough to handle, slice the potatoes in ½-inch-thick rounds. Place the potatoes in a lightly oiled 9 x 12-inch baking dish. Mix the lardons, onion, and garlic mixture into the potatoes, followed by the crème fraîche and wine. Add the herbes de Provence and the nutmeg, and season with salt and pepper. Mix well. Slice the cheese round in half crosswise, so it ends up in 2 rounds. Cut each round into 4 pieces, totaling 8 pieces of cheese. Place the slices of cheese on the potato mixture, skin side up. Bake for 25 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Serve with a crispy endive salad with lemon vinaigrette.
*A true tartiflette uses Reblochon cheese, but it might be hard to find outside of France. If using brie, add an additional ¼ cup dry white wine, 1 tablespoon ground mustard seed, and more freshly ground black pepper to the potato mixture.
How to Host a French Dinner Party
Every formal French meal starts with an apéro—appetizers served with champagne or a cocktail. This is followed by an entrée such as a soup or a salad with a few grilled scallops, the main course (plat principal), a cheese interlude (or salad), and then dessert. A standard apéro usually includes a small bowl of olives, green or black; potato chips (if children are in attendance); a bowl of cherry tomatoes or a crudité with a dip; plus one or two homemade dishes and a protein like foie gras on toast, a platter of charcuterie (meats), or sliced sausages. Verrines—small bites served in glasses ranging in size from shots to juice—are very popular. Basically, the options are endless for bite-sized nibbles—also the makings for an apéro-dînatoire (a tapas-style meal).
Appetizers
INDIVIDUAL TOMATO AND ZUCCHINI TARTS
Prep time: 10 minutes
Cook time: 25 minutes
Serves: 12 to 14
Great for: apéro
Wine suggestion: Champagne
•1 homemade (p. 60) or premade piecrust from the refrigerated (not frozen) section
•½ cup crème fraîche
•1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
•2 medium tomatoes, sliced
•½ to ¾ zucchini, skin on, sliced
•Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
•1 healthy pinch herbes de Provence
Preheat oven to 350°F. On a floured work surface, roll out your piecrust, and use a 2-inch circle tool or a juice glass to cut the piecrust into small rounds. Roll out any leftover dough, cut again. Place the rounds on a parchment lined baking sheet. Brush the dough with a layer of crème fraîche and the mustard. Top each round with alternating tomatoes and zucchini, or a combo of both. Season with herbes de Provence and salt and pepper. Bake for 25 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature.
ALAIN AND MURIEL’S GRAPEFRUIT, SHRIMP, AND FENNEL VERRINE
Prep time: 15 minutes
Cook time: 30 minutes (to chill in refrigerator)
Serves: 6 (juice-glass-sized verrines), 12 (shot-glass-sized verrines), or 24 (Chinese soup spoons)
Great for: an entrée or an apéro
Wine suggestion: Champagne, baby!
•2 cups shrimp, precooked, or prawns, crayfish, or crab, roughly chopped into bite-size pieces
•1 grapefruit, pulped
•2 avocados, peeled and cubed
•2 tomatoes, diced
•1 fennel bulb, chopped into bite-size pieces
•¼ cup chives, chopped, plus extra for garnish
•½ lemon, juiced
•Crème fraîche or Greek yogurt, for garnish
•Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Combine the first 7 ingredients in a bowl. Salt and pepper. Chill in the refrigerator for 30 minutes, or until ready to serve. Serve in verrines or Chinese soup spoons. Garnish with a dollop of crème fraîche, chives, and a pinch of pepper.
Entrées
ROASTED POTIMARRON (HOKKAIDO SQUASH) SOUP
Prep time: 15 minutes
Cook time: 45 minutes to 1 hour
Serves: 4 to 6
Great for: entrée, main course, or served in verrines as an apéro
Wine suggestion: Alsace
•1 medium leek
•2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
•1 onion, peeled and diced
•2 carrots, peeled and diced
•2 stalks celery, diced
•1 garlic clove, peeled, de-germed, and finely minced
•4 cups chicken broth or vegetable stock
•3 healthy pinches herbes de Provence
•4 teaspoons ground cinnamon
•1 teaspoon ground cumin
•1 potimarron (Hokkaido squash) or 1 medium-sized butternut squash
•½ lemon, juiced (optional)
•¼ cup chives, chopped, for garnish
•Crème fraîche or sour cream or Greek yogurt, for garnish
•Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
To clean the leek, slice off the dark green end, trimming to the pale green or white end. Cut off the roots. Slice the stalk lengthwise, and run under cold water. Set aside until ready to chop and use.
Preheat oven to 400°F. Heat the oil in a large pot over medium-high heat. Add the leek, onion, carrots, celery, and garlic, cooking until vegetables are soft, about 10 minutes. Add the chicken broth or vegetable stock, 2 teaspoons of the cinnamon, cumin, and 2 pinches of the herbes de Provence. Bring to a boil, cover, and reduce heat to a simmer.
Remove the ends (top and bottom) of the squash using a sharp knife, then cut it in half from the top (the neck) to the bottom (the tail). Remove the seeds with a spoon. Cut the squash into large chunks, and place on a baking tray, skin side down. Drizzle with olive oil. Sprinkle with salt, a pinch of herbes de Provence, and the remaining cinnamon. Place on the center rack of the oven and roast for 25 minutes until soft. Let cool, then discard the skin, and chop into 1-inch or 2-inch cubes. Add to the pot of vegetables and broth. Simmer for another 15 to 20 minutes. Purée in batches with a food processor, or all at once with an immersion blender, until creamy. Season with salt and pepper. If the soup needs an acidic flavor boost, add the lemon juice. Serve in bowls, and garnish with chives and a dollop of cream.
Plat Principal
BALSAMIC GLAZED PORK TENDERLOIN WITH MUSTARD CREAM SAUCE
Prep time: 20 minutes
Cooking time: 50 minutes
Serves: 6
Great for: a dinner party or a family meal
Wine suggestion: Bourgogne
FOR THE PORK:
•2 pork tenderloins (about 2½ pound
s total)
•¼ cup balsamic vinegar
•2 to 3 tablespoons brown sugar
•1 to 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
•Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
•2 to 4 sprigs fresh rosemary, or 2 tablespoons dried
FOR THE SAUCE:
•1½-inch fresh ginger root, peeled
•3 cloves garlic, peeled
•2 shallots, peeled
•1 red onion, peeled
•½ cup crème fraîche or sour cream
•3 tablespoons Dijon mustard
•¼ cup flat parsley, plus extra for garnish
•¼ cup fresh tarragon, plus extra for garnish
•1 cup dry white wine
•Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Preheat oven to 375°F. Season the pork with salt and pepper, and place it in a large skillet over medium heat, searing all sides until golden, about 5 minutes. Transfer the pork to a plate, keeping the burner on. Rub the pork down with the mustard. In the same pan, pour in the balsamic vinegar, and add in the sugar, stirring with a wooden spoon. Place the pork back into the pan. Glaze by turning the pork into the mixture several times, until fully coated. Remove the pork from heat, and place it in a baking dish. Place the rosemary on top. Bake for 30 minutes; the thickest part of the pork should register 145°F. While the pork is baking, prepare the sauce.
In a food processor, mince the ginger until it’s shredded. Add in the garlic. Mince. Then add the onion and shallots, and mince again. Add in the remaining ingredients, and pulse until smooth. Transfer the mixture to a pot, and heat on medium low, stirring occasionally until the pork is ready and the sauce is warm.
Transfer the pork to a cutting board. Let stand 10 minutes. Whisk the sauce, and pour it into a gravy boat. Slice the pork, garnish with tarragon and parsley, and serve with the sauce, rosemary potatoes (p. 246), and steamed asparagus with a lemon mustard vinaigrette (p. 135).
BOEUF BOURGUIGNON
Prep time: 40 minutes
Cook time: 3½ hours in a Dutch oven, or 1¾ hours in a pressure cooker
Serves: 6
Great for: family meals, holiday parties, and any other winter dinner
Wine Suggestion: Bordeaux or St. Émilion
•3 to 4 pounds lean stewing beef, cut into 2-inch chunks
•4 tablespoons all-purpose flour
•1 cup lardons or pancetta, cut in cubes
•4 cloves garlic, peeled, de-germed, and finely minced
•6 tablespoons butter
•16 to 20 pearl onions, fresh or frozen
•2 to 3 large carrots, peeled and cut into 2- to 3-inch chunks
•4 shallots, peeled and sliced
•1 bottle red wine (a hearty, but not expensive, Bordeaux)
•1½ cups beef stock
•2 tablespoons tomato paste
•½ cup brandy, Armagnac, or Cognac
•6 cloves
•1 bouquet garni*
•½ pound fresh mushrooms, (cèpes, chanterelles, or white) sliced
•1 (12- or 14.5-ounce) can button mushrooms
•3 bay leaves
•¼ cup parsley, chopped (flat variety preferred), for garnish
•6 medium-sized red potatoes, halved and skin on (optional)**
•Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Using 1 tablespoon of the flour, coat the beef and toss to cover, and then season with salt and pepper. Blanch the onions in a pot of lightly salted water, drain, and set aside. In a Dutch oven, cook the lardons until brown and crispy, about 7 minutes. Add in the garlic, and cook for another 4 minutes. Remove the lardons with a slotted spoon, and set aside on a paper towel. Brown the beef in the same pot on medium-high heat, searing all sides until golden. Add carrots and shallots to the beef. Return the lardons to your pot. Add the beef stock to the pot, and then add enough wine to cover the beef. Add the bouquet garni, cloves, and bay leaves. Pour in the brandy, and add the tomato paste. Let simmer on low heat, covered, for about 2½ hours, stirring occasionally. If you notice the sauce is boiling down too much, add more wine.
Half an hour before serving, peel the pearl onions, and drain the button mushrooms. In a pan, melt 2 tablespoons of the butter and sauté the onions and all the mushrooms. Add them to the main pot, stirring them in with the wooden spoon. If using potatoes, now is the time to add them. Simmer, covered, for half an hour.
In a small bowl, mix the remaining 3 tablespoons of flour with 2 tablespoons of the butter with your fingers until it forms a paste. This is a beurre manié, which thickens the sauce. Fold it into the sauce about 10 minutes before serving. Season with salt and pepper. Remove the bouquet garni and the bay leaves, and garnish with parsley. Serve with an endive salad and a baguette.
If using a pressure cooker, prepare all ingredients as indicated—blanching the onions, sautéing the mushrooms, and preparing the beef and lardons. Place everything in the pot all at once except for the beurre manié (see above). Cook for 1½ hours. Release the steam. Add the beurre manié to thicken the sauce. Stir, and simmer for an additional 10 minutes.
*Can’t find bouquet garni? Make your own—it’s easy! Using kitchen string, tie together these ingredients: 3 bay leaves, 6 sprigs of dried thyme, and 1 sprig of rosemary.
**This dish can be served with potatoes cooked into the recipe, or it can be served over an egg-based pasta, like tagliatelle.
JEAN-LUC’S LANGOUSTES À L’ARMORICAINE
Prep time: 20 minutes
Cook time: 45 minutes
Serves: 4 to 6
Great for: dinner parties or holiday meals
Wine Suggestion: Bandol Blanc or Cassis Blanc
FOR THE SAUCE:
•2 tablespoons butter
•1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
•1 red onion, peeled and roughly minced
•3 shallots, peeled and roughly minced
•3 cloves garlic, peeled, de-germed, and finely minced
•2 medium carrots, peeled, and shredded or sliced
•1 cup tomato purée
•½ cup tomatoes, diced
•1 teaspoon tomato paste
•5 cloves
•2 sprigs thyme, leaves only
•5 peppercorns
•1½ cups dry white wine
•2 bay leaves
•½ cup flat parsley, finely chopped, plus extra for garnish
•1 tablespoon madras curry powder
•½ cup Cognac, Armagnac, or brandy
•Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
FOR THE LOBSTER:
•1 lobster tail per person, thawed if frozen*
•1 tablespoon butter
•1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
•¼ cup Cognac, Armagnac, or brandy
First, prepare the sauce.** In a large pot, melt the butter and add the olive oil. Add the onion, shallots, and garlic, cooking until soft and translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the carrots. Cook for 3 to 5 minutes. Add the tomato purée, tomatoes, tomato paste, cloves, thyme, and peppercorns. Stir. Add the wine. Add the bay leaves, parsley, and curry powder. Stir. Season sauce with salt and pepper. Let simmer for 10 minutes while preparing the lobsters.
In a large pot (or two, if needed), melt the butter with the olive oil. Place the lobster tails in the pot, turning them occasionally. Once the shells are a red or orange color, add the Cognac, light a long kitchen match, and flambé—keep a lid handy in case the flames rise too high and you need to snuff the fire out.*** Once the flame settles down, add the lobster tails to the sauce. Simmer for half an hour on a low flame, seasoning with salt, pepper, and a dash of Cognac, to taste. Remove bay leaves. Garnish with parsley, and serve with steamed rice.
*A cheaper alternative to lobster is monkfish or extra-large shrimp, which can be used for cooking large quantities for a smaller price tag.
**If you are serving more than 6 portions—do not double the ingredients for the sauce. Add about an eig
hth more of each ingredient per serving. And don’t throw the leftover sauce out; it’s amazing on pasta.
***Flambé at your own risk. Please be careful—we’re talking fire here.
The Salad or Cheese Course
For the cheese course, I normally pick out a goat cheese, a Roquefort, a Tomme, and a Brie—a variety. For the salads, here are two of my go-to dressings to serve on a crisp, green salad with veggies.
LEMON MUSTARD VINAIGRETTE
Prep time: 5 minutes
•½ lemon, juiced
•1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
•¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
•1 teaspoon finely minced garlic
•1 healthy pinch herbes de Provence
•Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Whisk all the ingredients together in a bowl until creamy. Serve on a salad or steamed veggies.
CREAMY BALSAMIC VINAIGRETTE
Prep time: 5 minutes
•½ cup aged balsamic vinegar
•1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
•⅛ cup extra virgin olive oil
•1 healthy pinch herbes de Provence
•Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Whisk all the ingredients together in a bowl until creamy. Serve on a salad or steamed veggies.
Ingredient Three
ADVENTURE
14
A SPRING IN MY STEP
May first is a celebration of spring, new beginnings, and also a national holiday established when the eight-hour workday was introduced into France, much like Labor Day in the U.S. My neighbor, Claude, came over to the house and handed me a small bouquet of lily of the valley, known here as muguet, wrapped with a pink satin ribbon. This, I learned, was another wonderful French tradition, the flowers given to those you love to wish them happiness and good fortune for the upcoming year. Claude also handed me six tall bamboo rods to support the tomato plants we’d just planted in our garden, a thank-you to Jean-Luc for helping him with his taxes. I asked if he and his wife would like to join us for an apéritif. He pointed to his heart. “Merci, c’est gentil, mais je peux pas. Demain, j’irai à la clinique pour un acte chirurgical.”
How to Make a French Family Page 13