Travelers' Tales Thailand: True Stories (Travelers' Tales Guides)

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Travelers' Tales Thailand: True Stories (Travelers' Tales Guides) Page 45

by James O'Reilly


  ◆ Chulalongkorn Day: October 23

  ◆ H.M. the King’s Birthday: December 5

  ◆ Constitution Day: December 10

  ◆ New Year’s Eve: December 31

  Chinese New Year in January (date determined by lunar calendar) is not officially recognized as a holiday, but many shops close for four days.

  Plan your visit to coincide with a Thai festival. Thais celebrate even their religious holidays with verve and invite the visitor to join in; do so, and enhance the enjoyment of a stay. Dates change from year to year; check with the Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) before finalizing your plans.

  January-February

  Borsang Umbrella Fair (North only). This colorful festival honors the craftsmen of one of the oldest Chiang Mai arts. Competitions and exhibitions are highlighted by the selection of Miss Borsang.

  Flower Festival (North only). Held when Chiang Mai’s flowers are abloom, it offers flower exhibitions and a grand floral procession through the city streets, with floats, marching bands and beautiful Chiang Mai women.

  Magha Puja celebrates the spontaneous gathering of 1,200 disciples to hear Buddha preach. In the evening when the full moon is rising, Buddhists gather at wats to honor him. Arrive about 7 p.m. to buy incense sticks, a candle, and flowers from a vendor. After the sermon, follow the monk-led procession around the temple. After completing three circuits, place your candle, incense sticks and flowers in the sand-filled trays as others are doing, wai and depart.

  March-April

  Poy Sang Long (Mae Hong Son only).Young Shan hilltribe men ride elephants to the temples be initiated into the Buddhist monkhood.

  Songkran, the traditional Thai new year, finds the Thais at their boisterous best. In Bangkok, on the first day Thailand’s second most famous Buddha image, the Phra Buddha Sihing, is carried in solemn ceremony through the streets to Sanam Luang where it is anointed by the Buddhist faithful. On the second day, one is supposed to bless his friends by sprinkling water on them but it soon gets out of hand and water flies everywhere. Expect to get drenched and dress accordingly. Phra Padaeng down the Thonburi side of the river celebrates in rowdier fashion.

  May-June

  The Plowing Ceremony marks the official beginning of the rice planting season. Presided over by His Majesty the King, this beautiful, semi-mystical rite predicts the amount of rainfall that will fall during the coming monsoon season. Sacred bulls are offered a variety of grains and seers note which ones they eat. Obtain free tickets beforehand at the Tourism Authority of Thailand office.

  In the Rocket Festival, one of Thailand’s most exciting festivals, villagers in northeastern towns, including Yasothon, build rockets of bamboo and pack them with homemade gunpowder. By so doing, the villagers hope to induce the sky to pour down rain in the coming rice season. The village whose rocket remains in the sky the longest, wins.

  Chiang Rai’s lychee harvest is sufficient reason for a celebration. The Lychee Fair features displays of agricultural products and handicrafts and a beauty contest to select Miss Lychee.

  During the Phi Taa Khon Festival in Loei, townspeople dress as ghosts in remembrance of Buddha’s last incarnation when spirits welcomed him back from exile. The costumes and masks are quite imaginative.

  July-August

  Candle Festival (Ubon). Beeswax is beautifully crafted into scenes from Buddhism and mythology and paraded through the streets to mark the beginning of the annual Rain’s Retreat when monks meditate for three months.

  Asalaha Puja commemorates Buddha’s first sermon to his first five disciples. It is celebrated in the same manner as Magha Puja.

  September-October

  The Vegetarian Festival is the most unusual of Phuket’s festivals. this Chinese celebration runs from the first to the ninth day of the ninth lunar month. There are daily processions through the streets of Phuket but its highlights are demanding tests of devotion. While in trances and thus oblivious to pain, devotees run skewers, hoses, spears, even Chiang Mai umbrellas through their cheeks and tongues. Among the most daring feats is walking barefoot across fiery coals. Other devotees, called “Soldiers of the Gods,” climb ladders with rungs made of knives.

  November-December

  Buy tickets to sit on the terrace at the Sheraton Royal Orchid Hotel to watch, or join the thousands of others on the banks of the Chao Phya River between the Harbor Department and the hotel to watch the Long-boat Regatta. It begins at 8 a.m. and ends at 6 p.m.

  Loy Krathong (in the North, called Yi Peng Loy Krathong) is the most beautiful of Thai celebrations. As the full moon is rising, Thais fill tiny floral boats with candles and incense and launch them into the rivers, canals, ponds, and the sea to wash away sins and bless love affairs. It is a romantic night for lovers of all ages. Buy a “krathong” from a vendor, light the taper and incense, place in it a small coin and a few hairs plucked from your head, say a prayer and send it on its way down a river, into a pond, or even on to a hotel swimming pool. In Chiang Mai, a procession through the streets begins about 6 p.m.The celebration begins about 7:30 p.m.

  Sunflower Fair (Mae Hong Son only). When the Mexican Sunflowers bloom in the hills near Doi Mae U-Khor, Mae Hong Son organizes a three-day festival of oxcarts decorated with the beautiful flowers. Cultural exhibitions, a beauty contest, film shows, music and a Thai Yai Folk Drama are also presented.

  River Kwai Bridge Week celebrates the bridge made famous by the movie. Events include a light-and-sound show at the bridge in Kanchanaburi.

  Phuket King’s Cup Regatta features long-distance yacht racing from Nai Harn Bay with entrants from around the world.

  IMPORTANT CONTACTS

  If outside Bangkok, add 02 to phone number; if outside Thailand, add 662.

  FOREIGN EMBASSIES AND THEIR PHONE

  NUMBERS

  ◆ Australia 287-2680

  ◆ Burma/Myanmar 233-7250

  ◆ Canada 636-0540

  ◆ China 245-7044

  ◆ France 266-8250-6

  ◆ Germany 287-9000

  ◆ India 258-0300-6

  ◆ Israel 204-9200

  ◆ Italy 285-4090-3

  ◆ Japan 252-6151-9

  ◆ Laos 539-6667

  ◆ Malaysia 679-2190-0

  ◆ Nepal 391-7240

  ◆ UK 305-8333

  ◆ USA 205-4000

  TOURISM AUTHORITY OF THAILAND OFFICES

  Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) Tourist Assistance Center 4 Ratchadamnoen Nok Avenue Bangkok 10100 Tel: 228-2977-3 Fax: 228-2977-5

  TAT Airport Office Arrival Lounge Bangkok International Airport Tel: 535-2669

  Other TAT offices:• Cha-am: (03) 247-1005-6

  • Chiang Mai: (05) 324-8604

  • Chiang Rai: (05) 371-7433

  • Hat Yai: (07) 423-1055

  • Kanchanaburi: (03) 451-1200

  • Khon Kaen: (04) 344-4989

  • Nakhon Ratchasima: (04) 421-3666

  • Nakhon Si Thammarat: (07) 534-6515-6

  • Pattaya: (03) 842-7667

  • Phitsanulok: (05) 525-2743

  • Phuket: (07) 621-1036

  • Surat Thani: (07) 728-8818-9

  • Ubon Ratchathani: (04) 524-3770

  ACTIVITIES

  FIFTEEN FUN THINGS TO DO

  Bangkok

  ◆ Sit at an outdoor cafe in Patpong and watch the parade of humanity, everything from fat, over-dressed tourists to slinky, skinny, skimpily-clad “bar” girls; when tired, turn your attention to the mounted TV usually showing badly-acted but action-filled Hollywood films starring macho men (weighed down with even more macho machinery) such as Bruce Willis, Sylvester Stallone, and Steven Segal.

  ◆ Morning or afternoon, Lumpini Park is a window on Bangkokians enjoying themselves in unguarded moments. In the morning, watch swordsmen practicing an ancient Chinese art, boaters in the lake, and tai chi practitioners. In the evening, watch kite flyers, picnickers, and soccer players.

  ◆ Take an express boat to the ma
rket town of Nonthaburi on the northern edge of Bangkok. A bargain ride that takes you past city landmarks and into the countryside to observe life along the river.

  ◆ The train to Samut Songkhram leaves the Wongwian Yai station in Thonburi and heads through farmlands to Samut Sakhon. Disembark, cross the river on a ferry boat, and pick up the train for the remainder of the journey to the fishing port of Samut Songkhram. When you’ve had your fill, take the same route back.

  ◆ At the Bird Market behind the city wall at the intersection of Ratchadamnoen and Mahachai Roads, you’ll see the warblers that fetch prices up to $4,000, plus their gilded cages.

  ◆ Chatuchak Park, Bangkok’s weekend market, is so varied, and ever-changing that, like many Bangkok residents, you could go there weekend after weekend and still find something new. Antiques, pets, art pieces, exotic foods, jungle plants, and dozens of other types of items sell for bargain prices.

  ◆ To learn the future, consult the astrologers on Ratchadamnoen Road opposite the open field called Sanam Luang and in front of the Justice Ministry. Astrologers will use numerology to predict your future or will rely on a small bird to pick a card on which your destiny is written.

  ◆ Snakes give most people the frights but few visitors to the Snake Farm leave without having learned a great deal about a fascinating animal. On Rama IV, the Farm—the second oldest in the world—prepares anti-venom serum by milking cobras and other deadly serpents. You get to watch.

  ◆ Buy a funeral shirt. Walk Soi Issaranuphap from the river to Wat Hong Kong through the heart of Chinatown.You’ll pass spice stores, artisans making Chinese lanterns, and shops selling incense sticks eight-feet tall and shirts made of paper which are burned to be sent to departed ancestors.

  ◆ Master the art of Thai cooking at the Oriental Cooking School operated by the Oriental Hotel. Take the complete five-day course or choose the types of dishes you want to prepare and take one-day courses devoted to them. Tel: 236-0420, 236-0400.

  ◆ Soothe tired muscles with a traditional Thai massage at the herbal medicine school of Wat Po, located behind the Grand Palace.

  Chiang Mai

  ◆ Ride an elephant and take a raft down the Ping River. At the Chiang Dao Elephant Camp, 58 km. north of Chiang Mai, watch elephants demonstrate how they move gigantic teak logs in the forests, then take a ride on one. Finally, float down the Ping River on a bamboo raft.

  ◆ Wander the Night Market. The Chang Klan Night Market offers a wealth of interesting shopping but it is for its ambience that visitors flock to it. Watch while an artist paints flowers and your name on your camera or beltbag.

  Phuket

  ◆ Safari to the interior. Most people go to Phuket for the beaches. Tour companies take the traveler to discover tropical splendor in its jungles.

  ◆ Tap a tree. Awaken early for this one; a chance to watch how farmers tap rubber trees for the latex that may someday become the tires on your car.

  National Parks/Conservation Areas

  Thirteen percent of Thailand’s land and sea area is covered by national and marine parks, making it one of the highest ratios of protected to unprotected areas of any nation in the world. There are 80 national parks in Thailand and that number is expected to grow to over 100 by the turn of the century. Here are some of the top parks and estuaries:◆ Kaeng Krajarn National Park, located in Phetchaburi Province along the Burmese border, is the largest and least explored park in Thailand.

  ◆ Doi Inthanon National Park near Chiang Mai holds the country’s highest peak. The surrounding area is one of the top destinations in Southeast Asia for naturalists and bird watchers.

  ◆ Thung Salaeng Luang Wildlife Sanctuary is home to the Siamese fire-back pheasant. It is located on Highway 12 between Phitsanuloke and Lomsak, also known as the scenic “gateway” to Northeastern Thailand.

  ◆ Khao Yai National Park, Thailand’s oldest and most diverse national park, is located in Nakhon Ratchasima Province.

  ◆ Nam Nao National Park, adjacent to the Phu Khiew Wildlife Sanctuary, is in Loei Province.

  ◆ Phu Kradung National Park, a Thai favorite, is located atop a plateau in Loei Province.

  ◆ Khao Sok National Park, connected to the Khlong Sean Wildlife Sanctuary, is in the western part of Surat Thani Province between Takua Pa and Surat Thani. It is home to the bua phut, or wild lotus.

  ◆ Similan Islands National Marine Park, off Phuket in the Andaman Sea, is a world-renowned diving destination.

  ADDITIONAL RESOURCES

  THAILAND ONLINE

  There are numerous Thailand resources on the Internet. Point your browser to the following sites:◆ www.thaiinfo.com

  ◆ www.thailand.com

  ◆ www.thailandtravelguide.com

  ◆ www.bangkok.com

  ◆ www.bangkokpost.net

  ◆ www.thailand-travelsearch.com

  ◆ www.travelthailand.com

  ◆ www.ethailand.com

  ◆ http://asiatravel.com/thaiinfo.html

  ◆ http://thailand-travel.org

  ◆ www.infohub.com/

  ◆ www.lonelyplanet.com.au/dest/sea/thai.htm

  ◆ Mahidol University: http://www.mahidol.ac.th/Thailand/Thailand-main.html

  ◆ Ministry of Foreign Affairs: www.mfa.go.th

  ◆ www.nationmultimedia.com/

  ◆ www.siam.net/

  ◆ http://travel.state.gov/thailand.html

  ◆ http://sunsite.au.ac.th/ThaiInfo/TourismInThailand/index.html

  ◆ TAT: http://www.tat.or.th/

  ◆ www.thaiair.com/

  ◆ www.nectec.or.th/bureaux/index.html

  ◆ www.nectec.or.th/WWW-VL-Thailand.html

  ◆ Travel Guide: www.sawadee.com/

  ◆ Welcome to Phuket: www.phuket.com/

  GIVING BACK

  There is a lot to be gained by traveling in Thailand, and many people are moved to support good causes once they’ve returned home. A few organizations that do good work and could use contributions are:

  CARE (Cooperative for Assistance and Relief Everywhere). The Thailand office originally opened in 1979 to provide emergency relief in the form of food, clothing, and medical assistance to Cambodian refugees in camps along the Thai-Cambodian border. Now, CARE-Thailand supports projects in agro-forestry and conservation, children’s education, small enterprise development, and HIV/AIDS prevention education. To make a donation, write or call: CARE 151 Ellis Street, Atlanta, Georgia 30303, (404) 681-2552. CARE Thailand, GPO Box 19, Bangkok 105011 Thailand. www.care.org.

  The Human Development Centre (HDC) began as a single Kindergarten in the Bangkok slum Klong Toey. Twenty five years and 55,000 kids later, HDC has grown into a model program for grassroots community development. Programs have expanded to include 32 schools, an adult vocational program, an AIDS hospice, social work outreach, shelter for homeless boys and girls, soccer league, credit union, and plans for a legal aid clinic. For more information and to make donations, contact: The Human Development Centre 3757/15 Sukhumvit Soi 40, Phrakanong, Bangkok 10110, Thailand. Tel: 392-7981. http://www.inet.co.th/org/hdc/

  Friends of Women Foundation, 1379/30 Soi Praditchai, Samsen-nai, Phayatai, Bangkok 10400 Thailand. Tel: (662) 270-0928-9. Operates The Nature Shop stores which sell clothing, jewelry, herbal lotions, and other items made by homeless and former victims of domestic violence. Also offer herbal saunas and massage. Ask about their other activities to which you can become involved.

  The Wild Animal Rescue Foundation of Thailand runs several sanctuaries which care for injured, ill, maltreated, and orphaned wildlife.They work with many different international wildlife charities and accept donations. For more information, contact 235 Sukhumvit Soi 31, Bangkok 10110 Thailand. Tel: (662) 662-0898. www.war-thai.org/

  To minimize the impact of tourism on Thailand, visitors should avoid restaurants serving “exotic” (i.e. endangered) wildlife species. If you encounter these restaurants, please write a letter of complaint to the Tourism Authority of Thailand, the Wildlife Fund
Thailand, and the Forestry Department at these addresses:

 

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