Háoyuán MarketGIFTS & SOUVENIRS
(豪园市场, Háoyuán Shìchǎng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; west off Wangfujing Dajie, 王府井大街西侧 bLine 1 to Wangfujing, exit C2)
Branching off from Wángfǔjǐng Snack Street is this small, bustling souvenir market. It has lots of Mao memorabilia, pandas and Buddhas, as well as other tacky tourist tat, but if you’re pushed for time and need a last-minute present, you might find something. Haggling is imperative.
Drum Tower & Dōngchéng North
The wildly popular hútòng of Nanluogu Xiang contains an eclectic mix of clothes and gifts, sold in trendy boutique shops. It can be a pleasant place to shop for souvenirs, but avoid summer weekends when the shopping frenzy reaches fever pitch and you can hardly walk down the street for the crowds. At its northern end, Gulou Dongdajie has for a while now been a popular place for young Beijingers to shop for vintage clothing, skater fashion and music gear.
Yonghegong Dajie, the road the Lama Temple is on, is chock-full of Buddhist-themed shops, selling prayer flags, incense sticks and Buddha figurines to a backdrop of Tibetan-mantra music.
oPlastered 8CLOTHING
(创可贴T-恤, Chuàngkětiē Tìxù MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %010 5762 6146; www.plasteredtshirts.com; 61 Nanluogu Xiang, 南锣鼓巷61号 h9.30am-10.30pm; bLines 6, 8 to Nanluoguxiang, exit E)
British-owned, this iconic Nanluogu Xiang T-shirt shop prints ironic takes on Chinese culture onto its good-quality T-shirts and tops (from ¥168). Also stocks decent smog masks (from ¥225).
Opposite the entrance to the shop is a rare surviving (but very faded) slogan from the Cultural Revolution era, which exhorts the people to put their trust in the People’s Liberation Army.
Pottery WorkshopCERAMICS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %153 1380 5178; 80 Wudaoying Hutong, 五道营胡同80号 hnoon-9pm; bLine 2 to Andingmen or Lines 2, 5 to Yonghegong-Lama Temple, exit D)
Featuring the work from a collective of six young artists, this wonderful, but small, ceramics store has a beautiful range of handmade, hand-painted tea cups, teasets, vases and incense-holders. There's a good variation in techniques and glazes, and all are made in Jǐngdézhèn – the pottery centre of China.
Nanluogu XiangSTREET
(南锣鼓巷 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Nanluogu Xiang; bLines 6, 8 to Nanluoguxiang, exit E)
Once neglected and ramshackle, strewn with spent coal briquettes in winter, and silent bar the hacking coughs of shuffling old-timers and the jangling of bicycle bells, the funky north–south alleyway of Nanluogu Xiang (literally ‘South Gong and Drum Alley’, and roughly pronounced ‘nan-law-goo-syang’) has been undergoing an evolution since 1999 when Pass By Bar (过客; Guòkè MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 108 Nanluogu Xiang; 南锣鼓巷108号 h10am-2am; W; bLines 6, 8 to Nanluoguxiang, exit E) first threw open its doors. The alley was the subject of a complete makeover in 2006, and another in 2016. Today, it's an insatiably hectic strip of snack vendors, wi-fi cafes, bars, restaurants, hotels and trendy shops.
It is also a victim of its own success, though. Come here on a summer weekend to experience more people than you thought could possibly fit onto one street! With that in mind, don’t miss exploring the quieter alleys, which fan out from the main lane and house Qing dynasty courtyards as well as hidden cafes, shops, restaurants and bars.
Sānlǐtún & Cháoyáng
The Cháoyáng district has some of the swankiest malls in town, as well as many of the most popular markets for visitors, including the Silk Market and Alien's Street Market, two multifloor indoor clothes and souvenir markets that are heaving at weekends. Key areas for purchases are Sānlǐtún and Guómào, but there are shops of all descriptions spread across the district. Pānjiāyuán Market is on the edge of Cháoyáng and is the city’s premier souvenir market. 798 Art District is home to some boutique art stores that have some good shopping.
oShard Box StoreJEWELLERY
(慎德阁, Shèndégé GOOGLE MAP ; %010 5135 7638; [email protected]; 2 Jiangtai Rd, 将台路2号 h9am-7pm; bLine 14 to Jiangtai)
Using porcelain fragments from Ming- and Qing-dynasty vases that were destroyed during the Cultural Revolution, this fascinating family-run store creates beautiful and unique shard boxes, bottles and jewellery. The boxes range from the tiny (¥50), for storing rings or cufflinks, to the large (¥780). It also repairs and sells jewellery, both handmade and sourced from Tibet and Mongolia. Check out the photos of the former US presidents who've visited here.
It's located behind the Holiday Inn Lido.
oPānjiāyuán MarketANTIQUES, MARKET
(潘家园古玩市场, Pānjiāyuán Gǔwán Shìchǎng GOOGLE MAP ; west of Panjiayuan Qiao, 潘家园桥西侧 h8.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, 4.30am-6pm Sat & Sun; bLine 10 to Panjiayuan, exit B)
Hands down the best place in Běijīng to shop for yìshù (arts), gōngyì (crafts) and gǔwán (antiques). Some stalls open every day, but the market is at its biggest and most lively on weekends, when you can find everything from calligraphy and cigarette-ad posters to Buddha heads, ceramics, Qing dynasty–style furniture and Tibetan carpets. It's also one of the best places to pick up authentic Cultural Revolution propaganda posters.
Pānjiāyuán hosts around 3000 dealers and up to 50,000 visitors a day, all scoping for antiques. The serious collectors are early birds, swooping here at dawn to snare precious relics. If you want to join them, an early start is essential. You probably aren't going to find that rare Qianlong dòucǎi stem cup or late Yuan dynasty qīnghuā vase, but what’s on view is still a compendium of post-1950 Chinese curios and an A to Z of Middle Kingdom knick-knacks. The market is chaotic and can be difficult if you find crowds or hard bargaining intimidating. Ignore the ‘don’t pay more than half’ rule here – some vendors might start at 10 times the real price. Make a few rounds to compare prices and weigh it up before forking out for something.
To get here, come out of exit B at Panjiayuan subway station, then walk west for 200m to find the main entrance to the market.
Běihǎi Park & Xīchéng North
Yandai XiejieGIFTS & SOUVENIRS
(烟袋斜街 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Yandai Xiejie, off Di'anmen Neidajie, 地安门内大街烟袋斜街 bLine 8 to Shichahai, exit A2)
If nearby Nanluogu Xiang is too hectic for you, you can find some of the same here, on a smaller scale. It's still busy at weekends, but more manageable.
Shops here, on this rebuilt 'old-Běijīng' hútòng, which leads down to the lakes, are almost exclusively souvenir shops – T-shirts, silk shawls, fabric slippers, paper fans, fake antiques etc – but it's more fun shopping for them here than in one of the city's big, multifloor souvenir markets. Walk south from the Drum Tower, along Di'anmenwai Dajie, and it's the first hútòng on the right.
Three Stone Kite ShopARTS & CRAFTS
(三石斋风筝, Sānshízhāi Fēngzhēng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %010 8404 4505; www.cnkites.com; 25 Di'anmen Xidajie, 地安门西大街甲25号 h9am-9pm; bLines 6, 8 to Nanluoguxiang, exit F)
The great-grandfather of the owner of this friendly store used to make the kites for the Chinese imperial household. Most of the kites here are handmade and hand-painted, although the selection is limited these days, now that the owner uses half his shop to display other, admittedly attractive, souvenirs.
Kites start from around ¥150. You can also find all the gear you’ll need to fly your new kite, as well as miniature framed kites, which make pretty gifts.
Dashilar & Xīchéng South
Dashilar and Xīchéng South are among the capital’s finest neighbourhoods for shopping. Apart from Dashilar itself, Liulichang (meaning ‘glazed-tile factory’) is Běijīng’s best-known antiques street, even if the goods on sale are largely fake. The street is something of an oasis in the area and worth delving into for its quaint, albeit dressed-up, village-like atmosphere. At the western end of Liulichang Xijie (琉璃厂; Liúlíchǎng Liulichang Xijie; 琉璃厂西街 h9am-6pm; bHepingmen), a collection of more informal shops flog bric-a-brac. For boutiques, keep an eye on the h
útòng around Yangmeizhu Byway with this street emerging as a bit of a hot spot for art and design.
8Information
Dangers & Annoyances
Generally speaking, Běijīng is very safe compared to other similarly sized cities. Serious crime against foreigners is rare, although on the rise.
Guard against pickpockets, especially on public transport and in crowded places such as train stations.
Use a money belt to carry valuables, particularly on buses and trains.
Hotels are usually secure places to leave your stuff and older establishments may have an attendant watching who goes in and out.
Staying in dormitories carries its own risks, and while there have been some reports of thefts by staff, the culprits are usually other guests. Use lockers as much as possible.
Emergency
Ambulance 120
Fire 119
Police 110
Public Security Bureau (Foreigners' section) 010 8402 0101
Internet Access
Internet cafes (网吧; wǎngbā) are generally easy to find, although some are tucked away down side streets and above shops. They are generally open 24 hours. Standard rates are ¥3 to ¥5 per hour, although there are usually different priced zones within each internet cafe – the common area (pǔtōng qū) is the cheapest. Many internet cafes do not allow the use of a USB stick. Internet cafes are required to see your passport before allowing you to go online, and you may be photographed at the front desk.
Almost all cafes and most Western-style bars offer free wi-fi. Be prepared for occasionally slow connections and the sudden disappearance of sites for periods of time.
Almost all hotels and guesthouses provide either wi-fi or broadband internet access (or both), although some charge a daily rate. Youth hostels have free wi-fi as well as computer terminals, but levy a small internet charge (around ¥10 per hour) to use them.
Medical Services
A consultation with a doctor in a private clinic will cost ¥500 and up, depending on where you go. It will cost ¥10 to ¥50 in a state hospital.
Bayley & Jackson Medical Center (庇利积臣医疗中心; Bìlì Jīchén Yīliáo Zhōngxīn GOOGLE MAP ; %010 8562 9998; www.bjhealthcare.com; 7 Ritan Donglu; hdental 9am-4pm Mon-Fri, medical 8.30am-6pm Mon-Sat; bLine 1 to Yonganli, exit A1 or Line 6 to Dongdaqiao, exit D) Full range of medical and dental services; attractively located in a courtyard next to Rìtán Park. Dental check-up ¥456; medical consultation ¥500.
Běijīng Union Hospital (PUMCH; 协和医院; Xiéhé Yīyuàn GOOGLE MAP ; %010 6915 6699, emergency 010 6915 9180; www.pumch.cn; 1 Shuaifuyuan; 东城区 王府井帅府园1号 h24hr; bLines 1, 5 to Dongdan, exit A) A recommended hospital, open 24 hours and with a full range of facilities for inpatient and outpatient care, plus a pharmacy. Head to International Medical Services, a wing reserved for foreigners which has English-speaking staff and telephone receptionists.
Běijīng United Family Hospital (和睦家医疗; Hémùjiā Yīliáo GOOGLE MAP ; %4008 919191, 24hr emergency hotline 010 5927 7120; http://beijing.ufh.com.cn; 2 Jiangtai Lu; 将台路2号 h24hr; bLine 14 to Jiangtai, exit A or B) Can provide alternative medical treatments, along with a comprehensive range of inpatient and outpatient care. There is a critical-care unit. Emergency room staffed by expat physicians.
Hong Kong International Medical Clinic (北京香港国际医务诊所, Běijīng Xiānggǎng Guójì Yīwù Zhěnsuǒ GOOGLE MAP ; %010 6553 2288; www.hkclinic.com/en; 9th fl, Office Tower, Hong Kong Macau Center, Swissôtel, 2 Chaoyangmen Beidajie; 朝阳门北大街2号 港澳中心-瑞士酒店办公楼9层, Cháoyáng h9am-9pm, dental 9am-7pm; bLine 2 to Dongsi Shitiao, exit C) Well-trusted dental and medical clinic with English-speaking staff. Includes obstetric and gynaecological services and facilities for ultrasonic scanning. Immunisations can also be performed. Prices are more reasonable than at International SOS. Full medical check-ups start from ¥3000 for men, ¥3500 for women and ¥2200 for children. Dental check-up ¥350; medical consultation ¥690. Has night staff on duty too, so you can call for advice round the clock.
International SOS (国际SOS医务诊所; Guójì SOS Yīwù Zhěnsuǒ GOOGLE MAP ; %24hr alarm centre 010 6462 9100, clinic appointments 010 6462 9112, dental appointments 010 6462 0333; www.internationalsos.com; Suite 105, Wing 1, Kunsha Bldg, 16 Xinyuanli, off Xin Donglu, Cháoyáng; h8am-8pm; bLine 10 to Liangmaqiao, exit D) Offering 24-hour emergency medical care, with a high-quality clinic with English-speaking staff. Dental check-up ¥620; medical consultation ¥1320.
Money
Most ATMs (取款机; qǔkuǎnjī) in Běijīng accept foreign credit cards and bank cards connected to Plus, Cirrus, Visa, MasterCard and Amex; a small withdrawal charge will be levied by your bank. Most large banks change money. Credit and debit cards are now used more widely than before, especially in hotels, shopping malls and upmarket restaurants, but cash remains king in Běijīng, so carry money with you at all times.
The following banks have extensive ATM networks.
ABank of China (中国银行, Zhōngguó Yínháng)
AIndustrial & Commercial Bank of China (ICBC; 工商银行, Gōngshāng Yínháng)
AChina Construction Bank (中国建设银行, Zhōngguó Jiànshè Yínháng)
AAgricultural Bank of China (ABC; 中国农业银行, Zhōngguó Nóngyè Yínháng)
ATM screens almost always offer the choice of English or Chinese operation. There are ATMs in the arrivals hall at Capital Airport, and in many large department stores and hotels.
Banks
Bank of China (中国银行; Zhōngguó Yínháng GOOGLE MAP ; %010 6513 2214; 19 Dong’anmen Dajie, 东安门大街19号 ) One of dozens of branches around Běijīng with money-changing facilities.
HSBC (汇丰银行; Huìfēng Yínháng GOOGLE MAP ; www.hsbc.com.cn; 1st fl, Block A, COFCO Plaza, 8 Jianguomennei Dajie, Dōngchéng; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat) One of 26 branches and ATMs in the capital.
Opening Hours
China officially has a five-day working week, but much remains open at weekends.
ABanks, offices and government departments Normally 9am to 5pm or 6pm (some close for two hours at midday), Monday to Friday. Some banks open weekends.
AMuseums Most close Mondays. Museums stop selling tickets half an hour before closing.
AParks 6am to 9pm or later, shorter hours in winter.
AShops 10am to 9pm.
ARestaurants 11am to 11pm, some close 2pm to 5.30pm. Some open for breakfast (6am–8.30am).
AInternet cafes Usually 24/7.
ABars To 2am, sometimes later. Some bars close one day of the week.
Post
Large post offices are generally open daily between 9am and 6pm. You can post letters via your hotel reception desk, or at green post boxes around town.
Letters and parcels marked ‘Poste Restante, Běijīng Main Post Office’ will arrive at the International Post Office (Zhōngguó Yóuzhèng; GOOGLE MAP ; %010 6512 8114; Jianguomen Beidajie; 建国门北大街 h8.30am-6pm; bLines 1, 2 to Jianguomen, exit B), 200m north of Jianguomen station. Outsized parcels going overseas should be sent from here (packaging can be bought at the post office); smaller parcels (up to around 20kg) can go from smaller post offices. Both outgoing and incoming packages will be opened and inspected. If you’re sending a parcel, don’t seal the package until you’ve had it inspected.
Letters take around a week to reach most overseas destinations. China charges extra for registered mail, but offers cheaper postal rates for printed matter, small packets, parcels, bulk mailings and so on.
Express Mail Service (EMS; 快递; kuàidì) is available for registered deliveries to domestic and international destinations from most post offices around town. Prices are very reasonable.
Public Security Bureau
PSB Main OfficePOLICE
(北京公安局出入境管理处, Běijīngshì Gōng’ānjú Chūrùjìng Guǎnlǐchù GOOGLE MAP ; %010 8402 0101, 010 8400 2101; www.bjgaj.gov.cn; 2 Andingmen Dongdajie, 东�
�区安定门东大街2号 h9am-5pm Mon-Sat; bLine 2, 5 to Yonghegong-Lama Temple, exit B)
The Foreign Affairs Branch of the local PSB – the police force – handles visa extensions. The visa office is on the 2nd floor, accessed from the North 2nd Ring Rd. Allow around seven working days to get your visa extension. You can also apply for a residence permit here.
Tourist Information
Tourist information offices are aimed at domestic tourists. Foreigners are better off using hotels or, better still, hostels.
Běijīng Tourist Information Centers (北京旅游咨询; Běijīng Lǚyóu Zīxún Fúwù Zhōngxīn h9am-5pm) Free tourist maps and brochures.
Travel with Children
The Chinese have a deep and uncomplicated love of children and openly display their affection for them. Běijīng may have less child-friendly facilities than equivalent-sized cities in the West, but the locals will go out of their way to accommodate your kids.
Travellers with Disabilities
If you are wheelchair-bound or have a mobility disability, Běijīng can be a major obstacle course. Pavements are often crowded and in a dangerous condition, with high curbs often preventing wheelchair access. Many streets can be crossed only via underground or overhead walkways with steps. You will also have to stick to the main roads, as parked cars and bicycles often occupy the pavements of smaller alleys and lanes, forcing others on to the road. Escalators in subways normally only go up, but wheelchair lifts have been installed in numerous stations (although you may have to send someone down to find a member of staff to operate them). Getting around temples and big sights such as the Forbidden City and the Summer Palace can be trying for those in wheelchairs. It is recommended that you take a lightweight chair so it can be collapsed easily when necessary, such as to load it into the back of a taxi. Most, but not all, hotels will have lifts, and while many top-end hotels do have rooms for those with disabilities as well as good wheelchair access, hotel restaurants may not.
Lonely Planet China Page 17