(per person day/evening ¥80/100; h9am-5pm, 7.30pm & 8.30pm)
Cruises along the Hǎi River are very popular, especially at night. There are three main boat docks: by the main train station, by Ancient Culture Street and by the Tiānjīn Eye. During the day you can get on and off, but at night you'll only be allowed to disembark where you got on. The round trip takes about 50 minutes.
WǔDàDàO
The area of Wǔdàdào (五大道; Five Great Avenues) is rich in the villas and pebble-dash former residences of the well-to-do of the early 20th century. It consists of five roads in the south of the city – Machang Dao, Changde Dao, Munan Dao, Dali Dao and Chengdu Dao – and the streetscapes are European, lined with charming houses dating from the 1920s and before.
Filled with tiny cafes and boutiques, this is the most enjoyable part of the city for exploration on foot or by bike.
zFestivals & Events
Great Wall MarathonSPORTS
(www.great-wall-marathon.com; hMay)
This certifiably insane adventure marathon includes 5164 steps along a gorgeous (and very steep) Huángyáguān stretch of the Great Wall, 150km from Tiānjīn. If you're not a glutton for punishment, no need to do the full thing: a half-marathon and 8.5km fun run are held on the same day.
ERIC LIDDELL
Olympic champion, rugby international and devout Christian, Scotsman Eric Liddell is best known as the subject of the 1981 Oscar-winning film Chariots of Fire, but few know about his connection to Tiānjīn. He was born here in 1902 before being educated in Scotland; he then embarked on a short but astonishing sporting career. He was capped seven times by the Scotland rugby union team and won gold in the 400m at the 1924 Paris Olympics. Famously, he pulled out of his favoured event – the 100m – because, as a Christian, he refused to run on a Sunday. A year later, he returned to Tiānjīn to follow his true passion as a Christian missionary, and he stayed in China until his death in 1945 in a Japanese internment camp in Shāndōng province.
While in Tiānjīn, he lived at 38 Cambridge Rd – now Chongqing Dao (李爱锐旧居; Lǐ Àirùi Jiùjū MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 38 Chongqing Dao; 重庆道38号 ); look for the plaque – and he helped build the Mínyuán Stadium, also in Cambridge Road, in 1926. It's said that he based its design on Stamford Bridge (Chelsea Football Club's home ground and his favourite running track back in Britain). The stadium was demolished in 2012 before being reincarnated as Mínyuán Plaza. It still has a running track (which is free to use), but the building itself is now a leisure and restaurant complex from where tourists can rent bicycles or hop on horse-drawn carriages for tours of the surrounding concession-era streets.
4Sleeping
Tiānjīn has a good selection of midrange and luxury hotels. Budget accommodation fills up fast, however – make reservations well in advance.
oThree Brothers Youth HostelHOSTEL$
(戈萨国际青年旅舍, Gēsà Guójì Qīngniánlǚshè MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %022 2723 9777; [email protected]; 141 Chongqing Dao, 重庆道141号 dm ¥60-100, d ¥238; aiW; g951 to Guilin Lu)
Friendly hostel, with a laid-back atmosphere and a pleasant location right in the middle of historic Wǔdàdào. The small, covered front yard of the 90-year-old building has been turned into a cafe area; simple but clean rooms are upstairs at the back. Take bus 951 from the main train station and get off at Guilin Lu, which intersects Chongqing Dao.
Cloudy Bay HostelHOSTEL$
(云雾之湾, Yúnwù Zhīwān MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %022 2723 0606; [email protected]; 120 Harbin Dao, 哈尔滨道120号 dm ¥60-100; mHeping Rd)
Young and friendly, Cloudy Bay is housed in a four-storey building that's been renovated Greek-island-style: whitewashed walls, blue trim and splashes of mosaic tiling. The theme carries over into the cool rooftop terrace, although stops short of Mediterranean views. Apart from one private room (¥280), all rooms are dorms (six to eight beds), including a female-only dorm. English is limited.
Orange HotelHOTEL$$
(桔子酒店, Júzi Jiǔdiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %022 2734 8333; www.orangehotel.com.cn; 7 Xing’an Lu, 兴安路7号 r from ¥338, with river view from ¥428; aW; mDongnanjiao)
Good value with stylish, unfussy rooms, some of which have river views. It's a bit tricky to find: it's accessed from behind another building, via an alley running off Xing’an Lu. Convenient location next to the Dongnanjiao metro. Online discounts drop prices by ¥100.
oMin Yuan 33BOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(民园三三, Mínyuán Sānsān MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %022 2331 1626; www.minyuan33.com; 31-33 Changde Dao, 常德道31-33号 r ¥910-1300; aW)
Located in a beautifully renovated stretch of hundred-year-old town houses known as the Minyuan Terrace, this Tiānjīn trendsetter has minimalist, all-white rooms that feature stripped-wood furniture and flooring, and tons of space.
The same owners run the Malaysian restaurant Cafe Sambal and the cosy cafe 31 Cups, both of which are in the same complex.
oAstor HotelHOTEL$$$
(利顺德大饭店, Lìshùndé Dàfàndiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %022 5852 6888; www.starwoodhotels.com; 33 Tai’erzhuang Lu, 台儿庄路33号 d from ¥780; naiWs)
China's oldest foreign-run hotel, the Astor dates back to 1863, when it was opened by British missionary John Innocent. Although it's not as luxurious as some of the city's international chains, there’s an undeniable character to the place that's hard to find elsewhere.
Make sure you reserve a room in the historic wing, rather than the modern wing – you'll be rewarded with a four-poster bed, parquet flooring and bundles of charm. The Astor House Museum (¥50; 11am to 8pm), with its attendant memorabilia, is free for guests.
St Regis TiānjīnHOTEL$$$
(天津瑞吉金融街酒店, Tiānjīn Ruìjí Jīnróngjiē Jiǔdiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %022 5830 9999; www.starwoodhotels.com; 158 Zhangzizhong Lu, 张自忠路158号 d from ¥817; naiWs; mHeping Rd)
The last word in luxury in Tiānjīn, the St Regis has a prime riverside location, with alfresco seating on the back terrace – perfect for enjoying its signature Lapsang Souchong Bloody Mary. The heated pool, spa treatments and personal butler service promise serious R & R, while the staff are well attuned to the expectations of international visitors.
PRICE RANGES
SLEEPING
Prices given are for a double room.
$ less than ¥250
$$ ¥250–¥500
$$$ more than ¥500
EATING
Prices given are for a meal for one.
$ less than ¥40
$$ ¥40–¥80
$$$ more than ¥80
5Eating
Jīnfú LóuDUMPLINGS$
(金福楼 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 143 Chongqing Dao, 重庆道143号 meals around ¥10; h7am-2pm; v)
Simple but clean dumpling joint run by a friendly guy who doesn't speak English, but does have an English menu. There's only five things on it, mind you, and they're all dumplings (including vegetarian options). There's no English sign, but it's next to the easily spotted Three Brothers Youth Hostel.
In and OutYUNNAN$$
(一坐一忘餐厅, Yī Zuò Yī Wàng Cāntīng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %022 5870 1999; Xiānnóng Block, 55 Luoyang Dao, 洛阳道55号先农大院内 dishes ¥28-118; h11am-10pm; W)
Photos of lush rice terraces and elderly Dai women shouldering woven baskets effortlessly transport you – and all the local 30-somethings who pack the place out – to the land south of the clouds, where pineapple rice, across-the-bridge noodles and other Yúnnán classics tempt with promises of a temporary escape from the big city. Top choice in the Xiānnóng Block.
YY Beer House – WǔdàdàoTHAI$$
(粤园泰餐厅, Yuèyuán Tàicāntīng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %022 5835 2835; 1 Hunan Lu, 湖南路1号 dishes ¥28-68; h11am-10pm)
This cosy, atmospheric Thai restaurant has an enviable location at the entrance to the Xiānnóng Block, with a few outdoor stools to perch at while you enjoy an eponymous beer (¥35).
Gǒubùlǐ (main branch)DUMPLING
S$$
(狗不理 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 77 Shandong Lu, 山东路77号 dishes ¥38-128; h7.30am-9pm; v)
Tiānjīn’s most famous restaurant chain is a mixed bag. While the trademark bāozi (steamed dumplings) are big, juicy and delicious, locals will also tell you they’re overpriced (¥46 for eight). Nonetheless, it's been in business since 1858, they've got vegetarian options and there's an English picture menu. Another branch (狗不理 (金塔店) MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 34 Dagu Beilu, 大沽北路34号 dishes ¥38-128; h7.30am-9pm; v; mHeping Rd) is a short walk away.
Shāguō LǐCHINESE$$
(砂锅李 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %022 2326 0075; 46 Jiujiang Lu, 九江路46号 dishes ¥36-80; h11.30am-2.30pm & 5.30-8.30pm; mXiaobailou)
Of all Tiānjīn’s restaurants, this is one the locals consistently recommend. They flock here for the speciality – pork spare ribs in a sweet barbecue sauce, so tender that they pull apart at the touch of a chopstick. The small portion (¥68) is easily enough for two people.
YY Beer HouseTHAI$$
(粤园泰餐厅, Yuèyuán Tàicāntīng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %022 2339 9634; 3 Aomen Lu, 澳门路3号 dishes ¥28-68; h11am-10pm; mXiaobailou)
Despite the name, this cosy, atmospheric place is actually a Thai restaurant with a wide range of flavourful dishes from the land of smiles. It does, however, have some craft beers (¥35) too. It’s tucked away down a quiet street behind Nanjing Lu. A new, smaller branch has opened up in Wǔdàdào.
6Drinking & Nightlife
While you won't be clubbing till dawn in Tiānjīn, there are a handful of welcoming, laid-back bars throughout the city, as well as atmospheric cafes in the Wǔdàdào area.
31 CupsCAFE
(31杯咖啡, Sānshíyī Bēi Kāfēi MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 29 Changde Dao, 常德道29号 h11am-11pm; W)
The inviting courtyard of this cool Wǔdàdào cafe is hard to resist – and once you see the menu of milkshakes, tiramisu and evening cocktails, you may find it hard to leave.
Le Procope LoungeCOCKTAIL BAR
(普寇酒廊, Pǔkòu Jiǔláng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %022 2711 9858; cnr Shandong Lu & Chengde Dao, 山东路与承德道交口 h7.30pm-3am)
Distressed urban flair, single-malt whiskys and craft cocktails are the thing at this cool, candlelit lounge.
Ali Baba'sBAR
(阿里巴巴, Ālǐ Bābā GOOGLE MAP ; %186 3092 0830; Bldg 4, Weihua Nanli, off Tong'an Dao, 同安道卫华南里小区4号楼 h11am-3am; mWujiayao)
One of Tiānjīn's longest-running bars, this expat-friendly, slightly gritty student hang-out has an unlikely location hidden away in the middle of an apartment block – but it's ever popular. It offers food too.
Come out of Exit A2 of Wujiayao subway station and walk north along Qixiangtai Lu for about 300m, then turn left down Tong'an Dao. After passing the road called Wujiayao Si Haolu, take the first lane on your left. Ali Baba's is up on the right.
7Shopping
Binjiang Dao, between Nanjing Lu and Dagu Beilu, is one huge, long pedestrianised shopping strip.
In markets, look out for Tiānjīn nírén (天津泥人) – these chubby clay figurines are the city's trademark souvenir. You can get them at the Ancient Culture Street, as well as in the lobby of the main branch of the restaurant Gǒubùlǐ.
Shěnyángdào Antiques MarketMARKET
(沈阳道古物市场, Shěnyángdào Gǔwù Shìchǎng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Shenyang Dao & Shandong Lu, 沈阳道与山东路交叉口 h8am-5pm)
Best visited on Sunday, this antiques market is great for rifling through stamps, silverware, porcelain, clocks, Mao badges and Cultural Revolution memorabilia.
8Information
There are foreign-friendly ATMs inside and outside the train station.
Bank of China (中国银行; Zhōngguó Yínháng GOOGLE MAP ; 80-82 Jiefang Beilu; 解放北路80-82号 )
HSBC (汇丰银行; Huìfēng Yínháng GOOGLE MAP ; 75 Nanjing Lu, 南京路75号 ) There’s an HSBC ATM inside the International Building.
China PostPOST
(中国邮政,; Zhōngguó Yóuzhèng GOOGLE MAP ; 89 Jiefang Beilu, 解放北路89号 )
Public Security BureauPOLICE
(PSB; 公安局出入境管理局, Gōng’ānjú Chūrùjìng Guǎnlǐjú GOOGLE MAP ; %022 2445 8825; 19 Shou'an Jie, 寿安街19号 )
Tiānjīn International SOS ClinicHOSPITAL
(天津国际紧急救援诊所, Tiānjīn Guójì Jǐnjí Jiùyuán Zhěnsuǒ %022 2352 0143; Sheraton Tianjin Hotel, Zijinshan Lu, 紫金山路喜来登大酒店 )
Located in the Sheraton, about 1km southeast of the Tianta metro station.
THE GREAT PALL OF CHINA
Eight of China's 10 most polluted cities are in Héběi, though thankfully, besides Tiānjīn and Shíjiāzhuāng, most of them are not tourist destinations. Always check the air quality index (www.aqicn.org) before your trip to get a sense of what the current levels are like – this is of particular concern for children and anyone with respiratory issues (such as asthma). The two most harmful pollutants are fine particulate matter (PM2.5, which can be filtered with a quality mask) and ozone (which cannot be filtered – so stay inside).
8Getting There & Away
Air
Tiānjīn Bīnhǎi International Airport (天津滨海国际机场, Tiānjīn Bīnhǎi Guójì Jīchǎng %022 96777; www.tbia.cn) is 15km east of the city centre and has flights to all major cities in China, plus a few international destinations, including Bangkok, Singapore, Tokyo and Seoul. Buy tickets through www.elong.net or www.english.ctrip.com.
Boat
The nearest passenger port is the Tiānjīn International Cruise Home Port (天津国际邮轮母港; Tiānjīn Guójì Yóulún Mǔgǎng %022 2560 5128; www.tichp.com), 70km east of the city.
This port is primarily for cruise passengers who are making a stopover in Tiānjīn or Běijīng (180km). Be aware that this is a very inconvenient place to disembark, with no easy way to get to either city from the port. The simplest way to get to Běijīng is to arrange for a private car or bus (eg through www.tour-beijing.com) to pick you up and take you directly there (three hours).
There are two bullet trains per day between the nearby ghost city of Yújiābǎo and Běijīng South (于家堡; also written 'Yujiapu'; ¥75, one hour), but tickets can be hard to come by. Taxis charge ¥300 to get from the port to this station. There are also numerous bullet trains running from Tiānjīn and Tánggū (塘沽) to Běijīng; arrange for a private shuttle to take you directly to these stations.
Bus
Tiānjīn's main long distance bus station (天津通莎客运站; Tiānjīn Tōngshā Kèyùnzhàn GOOGLE MAP ), located at the train station's north entrance, serves destinations in Héběi, Shāndōng and Liáoníng, plus 12 other provinces. Check train schedules before hopping on a bus – trains are usually faster and more comfortable.
ABěijīng (Sìhuì bus station) ¥35, 3½ hours, hourly
ACāngzhōu ¥47, three hours, nine daily
AChéngdé ¥137, five hours, three daily (7am, 8am, 3pm)
ADàtóng ¥159, seven hours, two daily (9am, 3pm)
AJǐ’nán ¥140, five hours, three daily (8.30am, 9.30am, 10.30am)
AQīngdǎo ¥179, eight hours, one daily (8.15am)
AShíjiāzhuāng ¥125, 4½ hours, three daily (9.30am, 11.30am, 3pm)
Train
Tiānjīn has four train stations: main, north, south and west, all of which are connected to the metro system. Most trains leave from the main train station, though it's not uncommon for similar routes to also run from the south and west stations.
Bullet trains between here and Běijīng make day trips extremely feasible. No need to prebook (except on holidays and Sunday evenings); just turn up and buy a ticket on the next available train. You'll rarely have to wait more than an hour. The last train back to Tiānjīn leaves Běijīng at 10.43pm.
Note that for some destinations, such as Xī'ān, it can be quicker to take bullet trains from Běijīng.
Services from the main train station(天津站; Tiā
njīn Zhàn):
ABěijīng South C train ¥55, 30 minutes, frequent service
AQīngdǎo G train ¥259, 4½ hours, three daily (2.43pm, 3.53pm, 6.04pm)
AShànghǎi Hóngqiáo G train ¥517, six hours, seven daily
AShānhǎiguān G train ¥130, 1½ hours, five daily
AShíjiāzhuāng G train ¥132, two hours, 10 daily
AWǔhàn G train ¥493, six to seven hours, two daily (10.58am and 11.47am)
AXī’ān hard sleeper ¥326, 18 hours, four daily
Services from the south train station (天津南站; Tiānjīn Nánzhàn):
AHángzhōu East G train ¥495, 5½ hours, six daily
AQīngdǎo G train ¥259, 4½ hours, six daily
AShànghǎi Hóngqiáo G train ¥509, five hours, 10 daily
8Getting Around
To/From the Airport
Metro line 2 runs from the city centre all the way to the airport (¥4).
An airport shuttle bus (机场巴士; jīchǎng bāshì; ¥15, 40 minutes, every 30 minutes 6.30am to 6pm) leaves from the long distance bus station, at the north exit of the main train station.
Taxis to the airport cost around ¥60.
Public Transport
Local buses (tickets ¥2 to ¥4) run from 5am to 11pm.
Tiānjīn’s easy-to-use metro (地铁; dìtiě; tickets ¥2 to ¥5) runs from around 6.30am to 10pm. Ticket machines have bilingual instructions. Four lines were in operation at the time of writing; two new lines are expected to be open by 2017.
Lonely Planet China Page 23