When to Go
AJun–Sep Best months to visit Chángbái Shān.
AJul–Aug Countryside around the Korean Autonomous Prefecture at its most bucolic.
ANov–Mar Ski season at Běidàhú Ski Resort.
Best Places to Eat
A Quánzhōu Bànfàn Guǎn
A Sān Qiān Lǐ Cold Noodles
A Sānyú Zhúyuàn
Best Places to Sleep
A Days Hotel Landscape Resort
A Lánjǐng Spa Holiday Inn
A Sōngyuàn Hotel
Jílín Highlights
1 Chángbái Shān Nature Reserve Visiting China’s largest nature reserve, with its waterfalls, birch forests and, most of all, the aptly named Heaven Lake.
2 Běidàhú Ski Resort Hitting the slopes at one of China’s premier skiing spots.
3 Koguryo Kingdom Exploring the mysterious remains of this ancient kingdom in Jí’ān, just across the Yālù River from North Korea.
4 Imperial Palace of the Manchu State Shadowing the trail of Puyi, the last emperor of China, immortalised in film, at this palace in Chángchūn.
5 Yánjí Savouring China’s ethnic Korean culture in the capital of the Korean Autonomous Prefecture.
History
Korean kings once ruled parts of Jílín, and the discovery of important relics from the ancient Koguryo kingdom (37 BC–AD 668) in the small southeastern city of Jí’ān has resulted in the area being designated a World Heritage Site by Unesco.
The Japanese occupation of Manchuria in the early 1930s pushed Jílín to the world’s centre stage. Chángchūn became the capital of what the Japanese called Manchukuo, with Puyi (the last emperor of the Qing dynasty) given the role of figurehead of the puppet government. In 1944 the Russians wrested control of Jílín from the Japanese and, after stripping the area of its industrial base, handed the region back to Chinese control. For the next several years Jílín would pay a heavy price as one of the front lines in the civil war between the Kuomintang and the Chinese Communist Party (CCP).
Jílín’s border with North Korea has dominated the region’s more recent history. As of 2012, there were an estimated 200,000 North Korean refugees in China. The Chinese government has not looked favourably on these migrants, refusing to grant them protected refugee status and has deported those discovered by the authorities.
A goal has been set to begin transforming Jílín into a biopharmaceutical powerhouse. The first milestone will be the industry contributing 7% to Jílín's total GDP by 2020.
Climate
Jílín is bitterly cold during its long winter, with heavy snow, freezing winds and temperatures as low as -20°C. In contrast, summer is pleasantly warm, especially along the coastal east, but short. Rainfall is moderate.
8Getting There & Around
The airport connects Chángbái Shān with Chángchūn and other major Chinese cities.
The rail and bus network connects all major cities and towns. High-speed D and G trains link Chángchūn with cities south to Shěnyáng, Dàlián and Dāndōng; north to Harbin and Qíqíhā'ěr; and east to Chángchūn, Jílín City and Yánjí.
Chángbái Shān Nature Reserve 长白山
Chángbái Shān (长白山; Ever-White Mountains), China’s largest nature reserve, covers 2100 sq km (densely forested) on the eastern edge of Jílín. By far the region’s top attraction, the park’s greenery and open space offers a welcome contrast to Jílín’s industrial cities.
The centrepiece of Chángbái Shān is the spellbinding Heaven Lake, whose white frozen surface melts into azure waters stretching across an outsized volcanic crater straddling the China–North Korea border come summer. Heaven Lake’s beauty and mystical reputation, including its Loch Ness–style monster (guàiwu), lures visitors from all over China, as well as many South Koreans. For the latter, the area is known as Mt Paekdu, or Paekdusan. North Korea claims that Kim Jung-il was born here (although he’s believed to have entered the world in Khabarovsk, Russia).
At lower elevations, the park’s forests are filled with white birch, Korean pines and hundreds of varieties of plants, including the much-prized Chángbái Shān ginseng. Above 2000m the landscape changes dramatically into a subalpine zone of short grasses and herbs. Giant patches of ice cover parts of the jagged peaks even in mid-June, and mountain streams rush down the treeless, rocky slopes. With the lake at an altitude of nearly 2200m, visitors should be prepared for lower temperatures. It might be sunny and hot when you enter the reserve, but at higher altitudes strong winds, rain and snow are possible.
Though you can visit most of the year, the best time to see the crater (and be assured the roads are open) is from June to early September.
Wanda Chángbái Shān International ResortSKIING
(万达长白山国际度假区, Wàndá Chángbái Shān Guójì Dùjià Qū %0400 098 7666; www.wanda-group.com/2013/videos_0721/1.html; 455 Baiyun Lu, 白云路455号 )
About 15km from the local airport, this resort has 20 runs over two mountains with some decent hiking in summer. Certainly, the skiing is superlative in the winter.
Accommodation is widely available and most travellers stay in the scruffy gateway towns of Báihé and Sōngjiānghé.
The gateway town for the Northern Slope is Báihé; for the Western Slope it is Sōngjiānghé. It is possible to take buses or trains here from Chángchūn, Yánjí, Tōnghuà and Shěnyáng.
Chángbáishān Airport, halfway between the reserve and Sōngjiānghé, has flights to/from Shànghǎi, Chángchūn and Běijīng.
Báihé 白河
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The views of Chángbái Shān from the Northern Slope (北坡; Běi Pō) are the best and most popular. The gateway town for this area, where travellers have to stay, is Èrdào Báihé (二道白河), generally known as Báihé. The town continues developing with roads and new buildings being upgraded to meet the increased tourist traffic.
1Sights
You can see all of the sights on the Northern Slope in a day.
Heaven LakeLAKE
(天池, Tiān Chí )
The jewel of the area, this heavenly blue lake seems impossibly elevated by a ring of 16 mountainous peaks. The dormant crater lake, 13km in circumference, was formed around AD 969. A fixed route takes you around part of the crater lip with panoramic views of its glorious mirrored surface, at such an altitude (2194m) that it feels other-worldly. Legend has it that the lake is home to a large, but shy, beastie with the magical power to blur any photo taken of him.
Chángbái WaterfallWATERFALL
(长白瀑布, Chángbái Pùbù )
From the bus stop, walk up to a small hot spring where you can soak your feet or buy delicious boiled eggs (cooked in the spring). Past that a 1km trail leads to the viewpoint for the magnificent 68m Chángbái Waterfall. In the past you could follow the dramatic-looking caged trail beside the falls up to the base of the Heaven Lake, but that route is now officially sealed. And don’t bother trying to sneak in; park staff will quickly call you back.
Small Heaven LakeLAKE
(小天池, Xiǎo Tiān Chí )
Grab a bus from the Chángbái Waterfall to Small Heaven Lake. Nowhere near the size or majesty of the main crater lake, this is instead a placid lake (or large pond) worth circling. You could venture off into the surrounding forests for a short hike, but don't get lost and be careful not to cross into North Korea! A boardwalk takes you along a fissure stream to the Green Deep Pool.
Green Deep PoolLAKE
(绿渊潭, Lǜ Yuān Tán )
This large, aptly named pool of water, fed by Chángbái Waterfall, is 450m ahead of the Small Heaven Lake. The beautiful milky green pool is great for photos, but not for swimming in. Cross the bus parking lot and head up the stairs to reach it. Buses run from the waterfall down to the main junction and the Underground Forest.
Underground ForestFOREST
(地下森林, Dìxià Sēnlín )
Lying between the park entrance and transport
junction, this verdant woodland area, also known as the Dell Forest (谷底森林; Gǔdǐ Sēnlín), has a 3km boardwalk through the woods to the forest base and back. Allow at least 1½ hours for the walk. Buses run from here back to the junction and north gate.
4Sleeping & Eating
On your arrival at the train or bus station, touts for cheap guesthouses will likely approach. Many of these guesthouses can be found in the small lanes around town. Private rooms without bathroom go for ¥30 to ¥80. The more expensive rooms sometimes have their own computer.
There are small restaurants in all areas of Báihé. Overpriced snacks are also sold inside the park on the Northern Slope, but there are no restaurants, so it pays to bring your own supplies.
Woodland Youth HostelHOSTEL$
(望松国际青年旅舍, Wàngsōng Guójì Qīngnián Lǚshě %0433 571 0800; [email protected]; Wenhua Lu, 文化路 dm/tw ¥45/100; aiW)
Set in a former hotel, the friendly Woodland offers same-sex dorms, clean twins and the usual hostel amenities such as a restaurant (dishes from ¥18 to ¥88), laundry, wi-fi and travel information. The hostel runs its own return shuttle to the North and Western slopes (¥30 and ¥70 respectively) and also sometimes offers overnight camping trips in the park.
To get here from the train or bus station, take a taxi (¥8) or ask about free daytime pick-up.
Lánjǐng Spa Holiday InnHOTEL$$$
(蓝景温泉度假酒店, Lánjǐng Wēnquán Dùjià Jiǔdiàn %0433 505 2222, 0433 574 5555; r from ¥1500; ai)
The top accommodation in the area, this 200-room European-style lodge (with obligatory touches of Chinese kitsch) is just 500m from the north gate entrance but is quietly secluded in a wooded setting off the main road. In addition to multiple food and beverage outlets, the inn features a high-end hot-spring spa with indoor and outdoor facilities. Large discounts available.
PRICE RANGES
SLEEPING
$ Less than ¥200
$$ ¥200–¥400
$$$ More than ¥400
EATING
$ Less than ¥30
$$ ¥30–¥80
$$$ More than ¥80
8Information
The Bank of China (中国银行; Zhōngguó Yínháng Baishan Jie; 白山街 ) is on the main street in Báihé towards the end of town. It has an ATM.
8Getting There & Away
Bus
Public transport for the Northern Slope only goes as far as Báihé.
Buses leave from the long-distance bus station (kèyùnzhàn). From the train station head to the main road; the station is across and to the left. Buses include the following:
AChángchūn ¥133, 6½ hours, 6.10am and 5pm
ASōngjiānghé ¥11, two hours, 9.10am, 12.30pm and 2pm
AYánjí ¥53, 3½ hours, five daily
Train
Trains from Báihé include the following:
AShěnyáng Hard/soft sleeper ¥172/263, 13½ hours, two daily (5.35pm and 7.10pm)
ASōngjiānghé Seat ¥11, two hours, five daily
ATōnghuà Hard seat/sleeper ¥32/86, six to seven hours, four daily
8Getting Around
Bus
From Báihé train or bus station, a tourist bus (¥45) will drop you off at the flashy main entrance of the Northern Slope where you buy tickets (¥125) before proceeding to queue for a tourist shuttle (¥85) to the main transport junction/parking lot. From here you can catch a vehicle for the final 16km trek to Heaven Lake, or a shuttle to the Changbai Waterfall and other sights. Unlimited park bus rides are all included in the park's obligatory ¥85 tourist-shuttle fee, but the Heaven Lake vehicle is another ¥80 return.
From the Woodland Youth Hostel, you can take the hostel's own return shuttle (¥30, departs 8am and returns 4.30pm) to the Northern Slope entrance.
Taxi
A taxi from the train station into town costs ¥10. Taxi rides within town districts cost ¥5.
Taxis charge ¥60 to ¥70 (per car) for the one-way trip from Báihé to the Northern Slope entrance. Returning, it’s usually easy to share a taxi back (per person ¥20), but not if you leave after 5.30pm.
THE LITTLE-KNOWN KOREAN AUTONOMOUS PREFECTURE
Ask people to list some of China’s ethnic minorities and you will hear talk of Tibetans, Uighur, Mongolians, Hui and perhaps the Li or Dai. Mention that China also has almost two million ethnic Koreans, and that the majority live in their own autonomous prefecture along the North Korean border, and you’ll likely get some astonished looks.
The Yánbiān Korean Autonomous Prefecture (延边朝鲜族自治州, Yánbiān Cháoxiǎnzú Zìzhìzhōu) is the only minority prefecture in the north of China. While established in 1955, in part as a reward for Koreans who fought on the side of the communists during the Civil War, the region has in fact been settled by Koreans since the 1880s. Today, street signs are officially bilingual, much of the population is bilingual (thanks to state-sponsored Korean-language schools), TV shows and newspapers are in Korean, and fusion food is ubiquitous.
Over the past decades, however, the percentage of ethnic Koreans has dropped: from 60% in the 1950s to 38% today. In part this reflects the Chinese government’s desire to stamp out any potential for irredentism (many Koreans refer to Yánbiān as the ‘third Korea’, after the South and North) by encouraging Han migrants. More positively, it seems to indicate that the well-educated ethnic population experiences little to no discrimination in seeking employment or advancement outside the prefecture. Yánbiān may occupy a quarter of all Jílín province (it’s about half the size of South Korea), but the population is little more than two million, and opportunities are limited.
For those doing an extensive tour of northern China, consider looping up through Yánbiān as you go from Dāndōng or Chángbáishān to Harbin. The regional capital, Yánjí, is an attractive laid-back place, loaded with excellent Korean food, and the high-speed trains zoom through a bucolic landscape of corn fields, rolling forested hills and little brick villages to Harbin in four hours.
Sōngjiānghé 松江河
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Chángbái Shān’s Western Slope (西坡; Xī Pō) offers much the same experience as the Northern Slope. The set-up is fancier, but as in the north, you have little chance of getting away from the crowds.
Sōngjiānghé (松江河) is the jumping-off point for trips to the Western Slope, 40km southeast. The town is sometimes ignored by visitors who base themselves in Báihé and make day trips to this side of the reserve. They miss blankets of summer flowers and picturesque hardwood forests on the approach from this side.
The view from the crater is the main attraction, though Chángbái Shān Canyon is worth a look. There is a ¥125 admission fee for the reserve.
Chángbái Shān CanyonCANYON
(长白山大峡谷, Chángbái Shān Dàxiágǔ )
Filled with dramatic rock formations, the 70km-long, 200m-wide and 100m-deep canyon really deserves more fame, but it's tough to measure up against Heaven Lake. There's an easy 40-minute route along a boardwalk that follows the canyon rim through the forest.
Sōngjiānghé offers midrange accommodation similar to Báihé, while closer to the reserve a number of resorts have popped up in recent years, including Days Hotel Landscape Resort (蓝景戴斯度假酒店; Lánjǐngdàisī Dùjià Jiǔdiàn %0433 633 7999; r from ¥850; aiW), a stylish lodge with a lobby fireplace, high-end eating and drinking venues, and wood, glass and stone decor.
The gateway town for the Western Slope is dusty Sōngjiānghé, 40km to the northwest, from where there are buses and trains to Tōnghuà and Shěnyáng. Chángbáishān Airport, halfway between the reserve and Sōngjiānghé, has flights to/from Shànghǎi (¥1400, 2½ hours), Chángchūn (¥1000, 45 minutes) and Běijīng (¥1400, two hours).
Woodland Youth Hostel in Báihé has a return shuttle to the Western Slope for ¥70 (1½ hours). Taxis also run the route for ¥200 one way. Transport within the reserve costs ¥85.
Yánjí 延吉
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p 432,000
The relaxed and youthful capital of China’s Korean Autonomous Prefecture, Yánjí (延吉) has one foot across the nearby border with North Korea. About a third of the population is ethnic Korean and it’s common to both hear people speaking Korean – even switching from Mandarin midsentence – and to see Korean written everywhere, from billboards to official road signs. From this fusion springs delicious food, as most northeasterners will tell you, especially budget eats. Yánjí's well-regarded university and a sprawling high school fuel a cool, young cafe vibe, while Yánjí's air quality is as equally fresh, with locals claiming it is cleaner than Hainan's.
Yánjí is also a launching point for tours into Rason in North Korea.
1Sights & Activities
The Bù’ěrhǎtōng River (布尔哈通河; Bù’ěrhātōng Hé) that bisects the city has pleasant parks and walkways running alongside that are worth strolling on. By night the colourfully lit bridges attract young people coming to hang out.
Mào'ér MountainMOUNTAIN
(帽儿山, Mào‘ér Shān )F
The clear favourite of Yánjí families, especially on weekends, this relatively small mountaintop is dotted with young people lounging in the woods in tents or hammocks (¥40 to buy, or ¥10 per day) or walking the 60- to 90-minute return loop to the peak. The whole way is boardwalked, and the locals in all-white outfits and high heels reflects what an easygoing ascent it is, though the last section is quite steep. The views of Yánjí are the best around, and the air is as fresh as locals claim of the city, though not crystal clear.
Lonely Planet China Page 31