Chéngběi Youth HostelHOSTEL$
(城北国际青年旅舍, Chéngběi Guójì Qīngnián Lǚshě MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0531 8691 7661; [email protected]; 111 Bianzhi Xiang, off Quancheng Lu, 鞭指巷111号 dm ¥35-55, d ¥120; aW; g3, 5, K50)
This youth hostel in a small, converted courtyard residence is your best option for a cheap bed. Dorms and common bathrooms are decent, but the one available double room is just a mattress on the ground. There's a small bar, solid travel advice, train ticketing, organised biking trips to interesting sites in and around Jǐ'nán, and hiking gear for rent.
To get here, follow the flow of traffic, turn right off Quancheng Lu down Bianzhi Xiang, a small alley, and at the police station turn left down an even smaller alley. The hostel is through the gate with the red horse.
Silver Plaza Quancheng HotelHOTEL$$
(银座泉城大酒店, Yínzùo Quánchéng Dàjiǔdiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0531 8692 1911; 2 Nanmen Dajie, 南门大街2号 d/tr ¥493/531; nai)
You know this is a Chinese business hotel from the blinding Euro-style bling in the lobby. Professional staff and a prime spot overlooking Quancheng Sq make up for that and the compact rooms with stained tile ceilings. Shell out for an upgrade in the renovated B-wing.
Sofitel Silver PlazaHOTEL$$$
(索菲特银座大饭店, Suǒfēitè Yínzuò Dàfàndiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0531 8606 8888; www.sofitel.com; 66 Luoyuan Dajie, 泺源大街66号 r from ¥690, plus 10% service charge; nais)
This five-star hotel in the commercial district is still an excellent option, though we wish standard rooms were as spacious as the lobby suggests.
PRICE RANGES
SLEEPING
The following price ranges refer to a double room with private shower or bathroom.
$ less than ¥200
$$ ¥200–¥500
$$$ more than ¥500
EATING
The following price ranges refer to a main course.
$ less than ¥30
$$ ¥30–¥60
$$$ more than ¥60
5Eating
Jǐ’nán is a famed centre of Lǔ (Shāndōng) cuisine, characterised by bold flavours brought out by cooking over a high heat with plenty of oil and spices. Most of the best eating is had in the city’s streets and alleys.
Off Quancheng Lu’s shopping strip, Furong Jie is a pedestrian alley crammed with restaurants and food stalls.
Lǔxī’nán Flavor RestaurantSHANDONG$
(鲁西南老牌坊, Lǔxī’nán Lǎopáifāng, 大观园 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0531 8605 4567; 2 Daguan Yuan, 大观园2号 dishes ¥28-98; h11am-2.30pm & 5-10pm)
Just inside Dàguān Gardens (大观园; Dàguān Yuán MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jing Silu; 经四路 dishes from ¥10)’ north gate, this is the place for a refined take on Lǔ (Shāndōng) cuisine. Order the down-home classics like sweet and spicy cabbage with glass noodles (¥22) and lamb (braised or sautéed, from ¥19), accompanied with sesame cakes (¥2) – not rice. Chinese menu with pictures.
Yǐnhǔchí JieSTREET FOOD$
(饮虎池街 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; dishes from ¥10)
Evenings are smoky on Yǐnhǔchí Jie in the Hui district near the Great Southern Mosque. Hawkers fan the flames of charcoal grills lining the street, roasting up all manner of shāokǎo (barbecue on a stick). They make crisp scallion pancakes and fresh noodles too.
Seasons MínghúCANTONESE$$
(四季明湖, Sìjì Mínghú MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0531 6666 9898; 7th fl, Parc66, 188 Quancheng Lu, 泉城路188号 dim sum from ¥18, mains from ¥38; h11am-10pm)
It may be a chain, but this is an elegant choice on the top of the Parc66 Mall, where dandy waiters don gloves while serving southern Chinese classics, including dim sum, salt-baked chicken and durian cakes.
8Information
Bank of ChinaBANK
(中国银行, Zhōngguó Yínháng GOOGLE MAP ; 22 Luoyuan Dajie, 泺源大街22号 h9am-5pm Mon-Fri)
Currency exchange/24-hour ATMs accepting foreign cards.
China PostPOST
(中国邮政, Zhōngguó Yóuzhèng GOOGLE MAP ; 162 Jing Erlu, 经二路162号 h8.30am-6pm)
A red-brick building on the corner of Wei Erlu.
Public Security BureauPOLICE
(PSB, 公安局, Gōng’ānjú %0531 8508 1000, visa inquiries ext 2459; 777 Shuhuaxi Lu, 舜华西路777号 h9am-noon & 2-4.40pm Mon-Fri)
About 9km (a ¥18 taxi ride) east of the city centre.
Shāndōng Provincial Qiānfó Shān Hospital International ClinicHOSPITAL
(千佛山医院国际医疗中心, Qiānfó Shān Yīyuàn Guójì Yīliáo Zhōngxīn GOOGLE MAP ; %0531 8926 8018, 0531 8926 8017; www.sdhospital.com.cn; 16766 Jingshi Lu, 经十路16766号 h8-11am & 2-5.30pm Mon-Fri)
English and Japanese spoken. Take bus K51 or K68 to the Nánkǒu (南口) stop on Lishan Lu.
8Getting There & Away
Air
Jǐ’nán's Yáoqiáng Airport (%0531 8208 6666) is 40km from the city and connects to most major cities, with daily flights to Běijīng (¥630, one hour 15 minutes), Dàlián (¥502, one hour), Guǎngzhōu (¥1660, 2½ hours), Hā’ěrbīn (¥1450, two hours), Seoul (¥1034, one hour 40 minutes), Shànghǎi (¥1310, 1½ hours), and Xī’ān (¥910, one hour 50 minutes).
Bus
Jǐ’nán’s most convenient station is the main long-distance bus station (长途总汽车站; Chángtú Zǒng Qìchē Zhàn GOOGLE MAP ; %0531 8594 1472; 131 Jiluo Lu), about 3km north of the train station, though buses to destinations within the province also leave from the bus station ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %8830 3030; 22 Chezhan Jie; 车站街22号 ) directly across from the train station.
Some buses departing regularly from the main long-distance bus station:
ABěijīng ¥129, 5½ hours, nine daily (8.30am to 9pm)
AQīngdǎo ¥96 to ¥109, 4½ hours, hourly (8.10am to 9.20pm)
AQūfù ¥55, two hours, every 50 minutes (7am to 6pm)
AShànghǎi ¥266, 12 hours, four daily (10.30am, 6pm, 7pm and 8.30pm)
ATài’ān ¥25, two hours, every 30 minutes (6.30am to 6pm)
ATiānjīn ¥124, 4½ hours, six daily (9am, 9.30am, 11.40am, 2pm, 2.20pm and 9pm)
AYāntái ¥150, 5½ hours, hourly (6.30am to 9.30pm)
Train
Jǐ’nán is a major hub in the east China rail system and has several busy train stations. Most travellers can rely on the main train station (火车总站; huǒchē zǒng zhàn), a 4km ride on bus 3 (¥2) from the city centre, but there is also Jǐnán West train station (济南西站; Jǐnán Xīzhàn Dajinzhuang Lu; 大金庄路 ), which largely services high-speed trains.
Lines at the station’s ticket office can be very slow, and automatic ticket machines don't work for foreigners. Ticket offices only charge ¥5 commission and are all around the train-station square, including the plane/train ticket office (盛祥源航空铁路售票处, Shèngxiángyuán Hángkōng Tiělù Shòupiàochù MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0531 8610 9666; Quánchéng Hotel lobby, 115 Chezhan Jie; hplane 7.30am-10pm, train 8am-8pm) in the Quánchéng Hotel lobby and the Jǐ’nán Railway Hotel (济南铁道大酒店, Jǐ’nán Tiědào Dàjiǔdiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 19 Chezhan Jie, Jǐ’nán Railway Hotel lobby; commission ¥5; h8am-midnight). Chéngběi Youth Hostel can also book tickets.
Some express trains (1st-/2nd-class seat) departing from the main train station:
ABěijīng ¥330/195, two hours, frequently (7.15am to 8.02pm)
AQīngdǎo ¥145/120, two hours 40 minutes, every 10 minutes (7.20am to 8.20pm)
AQūfù ¥100/60, 30 minutes, regular
AShànghǎi ¥674/399, four hours, four daily (9.40am, 12.08pm, 4.37pm and 7.08pm)
ATài’ān ¥50/30, 24 minutes, five daily (7.26am, 9.40am, 12.08pm, 12.32pm and 5.22pm)
AWéifāng ¥80/65, one hour 20 minutes, every 20 minutes (6.09am to 8.20pm)
Some regular trains (seat/hard sleeper):
AXī’ān ¥149/264, 13 to 18 hours, six daily (11.13am to 10.36pm)
AYāntái ¥165/198, three hours 20 minute
s, 12 daily (7.16am to 6.10pm)
8Getting Around
To/From the Airport
Airport shuttles ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %96888; adult ¥20; hhourly 6am-6pm) connect the main train station and the Yùquán Simpson Hotel with Jǐ’nán’s Yáoqiáng airport. The shuttle also runs directly to Tài'ān (¥80, two hours, eight daily from 11.30am to 8pm).
Public Transport
Bus 15 or 84 (¥1) connects the main long-distance bus station with the main train station. Bus K51 (¥2) runs from the main train station through the city centre and then south past Bàotū Spring park to Thousand Buddha Mountain.
Taxi
Taxis cost ¥8 for the first 3km then ¥1.75 (slightly more at night) per kilometre thereafter.
Water Taxi
Open-air, motorised boats circle clockwise around the lovely Húchéng River and the south side of Dàmíng Lake, making 10 stops at major sights including Bàotū Spring, Black Tiger Spring, Five Dragon Pool and Quancheng Sq, as well as rising and falling several storeys via two fascinating locks. It takes about 1½ hours for the full circuit.
Zhūjiāyù 朱家峪
%0531 / Pop 1550
Eighty kilometres east of Jǐ’nán is one of Shāndōng’s oldest hamlets. Zhūjiāyù’s (朱家峪) intact structures mostly date back to the Ming and Qing dynasties, and many have been recently spruced up to serve as movie and soap-opera sets, but strolling the stone-paved streets is still a journey back in time.
Zhūjiāyù and its bucolic panoramas of rolling hills can be explored in an easy day trip from Jǐ’nán.
Admission to the village is ¥40. You can wander on your own, though there are official, Chinese-speaking guides (¥60) and eager long-time residents (¥30) ready to show you around. Posted maps are in English.
Follow the Ming-dynasty, double-track ancient road (双轨古道; shuāngguǐ gǔdào) to the Qing-dynasty Wénchāng Pavilion (文昌阁; Wénchāng Gé ), an arched gate topped by a single-roofed shrine where teachers would take new pupils to make offerings to Confucius before their first lesson. On your left is Shānyīn Primary School (山阴小学; Shānyīn Xiǎoxué), a series of halls and courtyards with exhibits on local life.
Walk on to see the many ancestral temples, including the Zhu Family Ancestral Hall (朱氏家祠; Zhūshì Jiācí ), with packed mudbrick homesteads, and quaint, arched shíqiáo (stone bridges). The Kāngxī Overpass (康熙双桥; Kāngxī Shuāng Qiáo ) is one of the earliest examples in the world of such a traffic structure and dates from 1671. A further 30-minute climb past the last drystone walls of the village will take you to the gleaming white Kuíxīng Pavilion (魁星楼; Kuíxīng Lóu) crowning the hill.
If you want to stay overnight, an attractive idea compared to the great urban roar of Jǐnán, look for flags posting '农家乐' (nóngjiālè; a guesthouse or homestay) or '住宿' (zhùsù; accommodation). There are plenty of options in the village.
Gǔcūn InnGUESTHOUSE$
(古村酒家, Gǔcūn Jiǔjiā %0531 8380 8135; dm ¥30, d with bathroom ¥100; W)
This earthy choice has basic but clean rooms in a courtyard house with chickens roaming the yard. The friendly Zhang family running the place also cook up meals using ingredients they forage and grow in the garden (English menu, mains ¥15 to ¥40). Pass under the Kāngxī Overpass and take the low road at the split, following the bend to the left.
Humble restaurants in the village cook up excellent fare from local ingredients, although proprietors may steer you to the more expensive free-range chicken and pork.
Lǎo Yī Mín RestaurantSHANDONG$
(老衣民菜馆, Lǎo Yī Mín Càiguǎn %138 8498 9061; dishes ¥14-25)
This humble restaurant cooks up excellent fare from local ingredients. The genial owners take their yellow dog hunting for wild rabbit (¥40 per jīn) and forage for fresh mushrooms and greens in the surrounding hills. It's located about 100m past Zhūjiāyù's large Mao portrait.
Zhūjiāyù Movie ExperienceCINEMA
(incl entry ¥80; h10am Mon-Fri, 10am & 2pm Sat & Sun)
This half-hour, immersive movie experience is loosely based on the harrowing journeys of Shāndōng natives seeking opportunity.
To get here from Jǐ’nán, catch bus K301 (¥14, 1½ hours, 7am to 6.30pm) to the Jìshī Xuéyuàn (技师学院) stop in front of a large technical college. Returning to Jǐ’nán, reverse the process or flag down a bus across from the white gate on the main road. Buses back after 5pm are rare.
From the Jìshī Xuéyuàn stop, catch bus 9 (¥1) to the large white gate marking the village drop-off. It’s another 2km walk (locals offer lifts) to the tourist centre. Taxis from the college will go the whole way for ¥15.
Tài'ān 泰安
%0538 / Pop 1.1 million
The gateway to Tài Shān’s sacred slopes is the town of Tài’ān (泰安), which has had a tourist industry in full swing since before the Ming dynasty. In the 17th century, historian Zhang Dai described package tours that included choice of lodging (enormous inns with more than 20 kitchens and hundreds of servants, opera performers and courtesans), a post summit congratulatory banquet, plus an optional sedan-chair upgrade (climbing tax not included).
Tài'ān
1Sights
1Balking Horse RidgeB1
2Black Dragon PoolA3
3Cypress CaveB2
4Dài TempleC6
5Dǒumǔ HallC2
6First Gate of HeavenC3
7Geoheritage Scenic AreaC3
8Guandi TempleC4
9Hall of Heavenly BlessingC6
10Hòu Zài GateC5
11Longevity BridgeA3
12Pervading Light TempleB4
13Red Gate PalaceC3
14Wànxiān TowerC3
15Yáocān PavilionD6
16Zhèngyáng GateD6
4Sleeping
17Hóngmén International Youth HostelC4
18Ramada Plaza Tài'ānA4
19Tàishān International Youth HostelC6
5Eating
20Ā Dōngde ShuǐjiǎoC5
21Beǐxīn Snack StreetC5
22Central Night MarketC6
23Dài Běi MarketD5
24Dōngzūn CourtA4
Transport
25Airport ShuttleC4
Bus 16 to Peach Blossom ValleyB6
26Bus 19 to Tiānzhú Peak TrailheadB6
27Bus 3 – Central or Western RouteB6
28Long-Distance Bus StationB7
29Train and Plane Ticket BookingsC6
30Train and Plane Ticket OfficeC4
31Western Route Tiānwài Village Bus StopA4
1Sights
Dài TempleTAOIST TEMPLE
(岱庙, Dài Miào MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Daimiao Beijie, 岱庙北街 adult/child ¥30/15; h8am-6pm summer, to 5pm winter)
This magnificent Taoist temple complex is where all Tài’ān roads lead, being the traditional first stop on the pilgrimage route up Tài Shān. The grounds are an impressive example of Song-dynasty (960–1127) temple construction with features of an imperial palace, though other structures stood here 1000 years before that.
Many visitors enter from the north through Hòu Zài gate (候载门 MAP GOOGLE MAP ), but entering from the south through Zhèngyáng gate (正阳门 MAP GOOGLE MAP ) allows you to follow the traditional passage through the main temple and up Hongmen Lu to the start of Tài Shān's central route ascent.
From the south end, two lions watch cars pass by on Dongyue Dajie, flanking the splendid páifāng (ornamental arch). Beyond this and the Zhèngyáng gate is the Yáocān Pavilion (遥参亭; Yáocān Tíng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; h6.30am-6pm).
Between the buildings, the courtyards are filled with prized examples of poetry and imperial records. Fossilised-looking bìxì (the mythical tortoise son of the dragon), dating from the 12th century onward, carry stelae on their backs documenting everything from the civil exam process to emperors’ birthdays. The Han Emperor Wudi himself is said to have planted some of the massive, twisting trees in the Cypress Tree Pavilion 2100 ye
ars ago.
The main hall is the colossal Hall of Heavenly Blessing (天贶殿; Tiānkuàng Diàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; shoe covers ¥1).
4Sleeping
Since you will need at least a full day to explore the mountain, spending the night in Tài’ān or at the summit is advised. It's cheaper and more comfortable to sleep in Tài’ān, and there's far more choice, although staying on the mountain naturally has its own appeal. There are many midrange options in town, mostly clustered around the Tàishān train station. Ask for discounts.
oHóngmén International Youth HostelHOSTEL$
(红门国际青年旅舍, Hóngmén Guójì Qīngnián Lǚshě MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0538 808 6188; www.yhachina.com; 89 Hongmen Lu, 红门路89号 dm ¥45-65, s & d ¥188, tr ¥218; W; gK3, K37)
In a red courtyard building, and formerly part of the Taoist Guandi Temple next door, this fresh hostel offers the best of all worlds – the mountain within a few steps, a cafe-bar and bright rooms with all necessary conveniences including wi-fi. The very knowledgeable staff organise night climbs and advise about how to take in the sights to the fullest.
Tàishān International Youth HostelHOSTEL$
(泰山国际青年旅舍, Tàishān Guójì Qīngnián Lǚshè MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0538 628 5196; 65 Tongtian Jie, 通天街65号 dm ¥40-60, s & d ¥100-188; aiW; g1, 4, 7, 8, 17)
This youth hostel is rather simple, with clean spartan rooms, pine furnishings and old propaganda posters, but staff are very helpful and the location is superb. Bike rental, free laundry and a bar on the 4th floor make this a pleasant experience. Look for the pair of arches just off Tongtian Jie. Discounts get rooms down to around ¥128.
Lonely Planet China Page 37