Lonely Planet China

by Lonely Planet

  On a street of German buildings, this copper-capped beauty was designed by Curt Rothkegel and built in 1908. The interior is simple and Lutheran in its sparseness, apart from some carvings on the pillar cornices. You can climb up to inspect the clock mechanism (from Bockenem, dated 1909).

  Qīngdǎo City Art MuseumMUSEUM

  (青岛市美术馆, Qīngdǎo Shì Měishùguǎn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0532 8288 8886; http://qdmsg.sdgw.com; 7 Daxue Lu, 大学路7号 h9am-5pm; g1, 25, 221, 367)F

  Contemporary works are on display in this compact museum housed in its own architectural masterpiece, a 1930s structure reflecting an eclectic mix of architectural styles from deco to Byzantine, Islamic and imperial Chinese.

  Qīngdǎo Municipal MuseumMUSEUM

  (青岛市博物馆, Qīngdǎo Shì Bówùguǎn %0532 8889 6286; http://qingdaomuseum.com; 51 Meiling Lu, 梅岭路51号 h9am-5pm, closed Mon; g230, 321)F

  This massive collection of relics anchors the budding cultural zone about 13km east of Old Town in Láo Shān district. It has the usual broad span of exhibits expected in a big-city museum, ranging from the prehistoric to the industrial age. Collections of folk-art woodcuts and intriguing coins pressed with Kyrgyz script stand out.

  Chinese Navy MuseumMUSEUM

  (中国海军博物馆, Zhōngguó Hǎijūn Bówùguǎn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0532 8286 6784; www.hjbwg.com; 8 Caiyang Lu, 菜阳路8号 ¥50; h8.30am-5.30pm; g26, 202, 501)

  Adjacent to Little Qīngdǎo lighthouse, this museum’s main attractions are the rusty submarine and destroyer anchored in the harbour. There are also, of course, displays on Chinese naval history.

  Huāshí LóuNOTABLE BUILDING

  (花石楼, Huāshí Lóu GOOGLE MAP ; %0532 8387 2168; 18 Huanghai Lu, 黄海路18号 ¥8.50; h9am-6pm; g26, 231, 604)

  This granite and marble villa built in 1930 was first the home of a Russian aristocrat, and later the German governor’s hunting lodge. It is also known as the ‘Chiang Kaishek Building’, as the generalissimo secretly stayed here in 1947. While most of the rooms are closed, you can clamber up two narrow stairwells to the turret for a great view.

  It's located on the east end of No 2 Bathing Beach at the southern tip of Zijingguan Lu in Bādàguān.

  Parks

  Many parks with ticket booths, including Little Fish Hill by No 1 Bathing Beach and Signal Hill Park in Old Town, are free to wander in after 6.30pm.

  Zhōngshān ParkPARK

  (中山公园, Zhōngshān Gōngyuán MAP GOOGLE MAP ; h24hr; g25, 26)

  Within central Qīngdǎo, Zhōngshān Park is a vast 69 hectares of lakes, gardens and walking paths; it's an amusement park for kids and is also the venue of lively festivals in the spring and summer. In the park’s northeast rises Tàipíng Hill with a cable car to the TV Tower at the top. Also within the park is Qīngdǎo’s largest temple, Zhànshān Temple (湛山寺; Zhànshān Sì MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ¥10; h8am-4pm), an active Buddhist sanctuary.

  When you get off the cable car at the temple, look for a round concrete dome on the right. This is the entrance to a bunker, which the Germans used as a wine cellar, and today houses a wine bar.

  Tàipíng HillMOUNTAIN

  (太平山, Tàipíng Shān MAP GOOGLE MAP )

  Rising up on the northeast side of Zhōngshān Park, Tàipíng Hill hosts Qīngdǎo TV Tower (电视塔; Diànshì Tǎ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0532 8361 2286; admission depending on view ¥50-100) at its summit, connected to the base by a scenic cable car.

  Little Fish HillPARK

  (小鱼山公园, Xiǎoyúshān Gōngyuán MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0532 8286 5645; 24 Fushanzhi Lu, 福山支路24号 ¥10; h6am-8pm)

  This sweet little park is located near No 1 Bathing Beach. Admission is free after 6.30pm.

  Signal Hill ParkPARK

  (信号山, Xìnhào Shān MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 16 Longshan Lu, 龙山路16号 viewing platform ¥15; h8.30am-5.30pm)

  This park in Qīngdǎo's Old Town is free to wander in after 6.30pm.

  Beaches

  Qīngdǎo has very pleasant beaches, though they are often afflicted in summer with outrageous blue-green algae blooms and litter. Chinese beach culture is low-key, with men sporting the skimpy swimwear and women covering up – even under Spandex ski-masks. Swimming season (June to September) means hordes of sun-seekers fighting for towel space on weekends. Shark nets, lifeguards, lifeboat patrols and medical stations are on hand.

  There are ways to enjoy the water without jumping in. If you give in to touts, 20-minute rides around the bay are ¥10 to ¥40, depending on the boat. Or stroll the Bīnhǎi boardwalk (滨海步行道; Bīnhǎi bùxíngdào), which stretches 30km along the city’s shoreline.

  Shílǎorén BeachBEACH

  (石老人海水浴场, Shílǎorén Hǎishuǐ Yùchǎng g301)

  On the far east side of town in Láo Shān district, this 2.5km-long strip of clean sand is Qīngdǎo’s largest and has the highest waves in town (decent for bodyboarding); it can be very quiet in the morning too. The ‘Old Stone Man’ from which the beach gets its name is the rocky outcrop to the east. Take bus 301 (¥2, 50 minutes) or a taxi (¥50) from Old Town.

  No 6 Bathing BeachBEACH

  (第六海水浴场, Dì Liù Hǎishuǐ Yùchǎng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; g25, 202)

  Closest to the train station is the No 6 Bathing Beach, a short strip of sand and tide pools, next to Zhàn Bridge (栈桥; Zhàn Qiáo MAP GOOGLE MAP ), the pier that reaches into the bay. At its tip, the eight-sided Huílán Pavilion is a graceful sight, but is often packed to the rafters. If the pavilion looks familiar, that’s because it’s on every Tsingtao beer label.

  No 1 Bathing BeachBEACH

  (第一海水浴场, Dì Yī Hǎishuǐ Yùchǎng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; g304)

  South of tree-lined Bādàguān, No 1 Bathing Beach is a very popular spot, perhaps for its snack stalls and kiddie toy selection, but more likely for its muscle beach.

  No 2 Bathing BeachBEACH

  (第二海水浴场, Dì Èr Hǎishuǐ Yùchǎng GOOGLE MAP ; g214)

  Once reserved only for the likes of Mao and other state leaders, this sheltered cove just east of Bādàguān has calm waters good for a swim. Take bus 214 directly, or bus 26 to the Wǔshèngguān (武胜关) stop to first wander past the villas and sanatoriums scattered in Bādàguān’s wooded headlands down to the sea.

  No 3 Bathing BeachBEACH

  (第三海水浴场, Dì Sān Hǎishuǐ Yùchǎng GOOGLE MAP ; g26, 202)

  On the eastern side of Tàipíng Cape in Bādàguān is this cove with dedicated swim lanes, paddle boats and gentle waves.

  Golden Sand BeachBEACH

  (金沙滩, Jīnshā Tān g2)

  For wide open spaces of sand, sea and sky, there’s Golden Sand Beach on the western peninsula of Huángdǎo district (团岛区). An undersea tunnel linking Huángdǎo and Shìnán puts it within easy reach of Old Town. Take red double-decker sightseeing bus 2 (¥15, 50 minutes) by the train station at 9am, 11am or 1.30pm, or tunnel bus 3 (隧道3; ¥2) from in front of the Municipal Hospital (市立医院) on Jiaozhou Lu in Old Town to the terminus and then transfer to bus 18 (¥1).

  A taxi the whole way costs ¥70 including toll.

  zFestivals & Events

  Cherry Blossom FestivalCULTURAL

  (hApr)

  The cherry blossoms explode with colour in Zhōngshān Park around April, bring splashes of colour to Qīngdǎo's oldest and largest park.

  oInternational Beer FestivalBEER

  (www.qdbeer.cn; 9am-3pm ¥10, 3-10.30pm ¥20; hAug)

  The city’s premier party draws more than three million tipplers every August. It's not just Tsingtao on the menu, so expect a galaxy of international and domestic brands.

  International Sailing WeekSPORTS

  (www.qdsailing.org; hAug/Sep)

  Watch (or join) the regattas and windsurfing by the Olympic Sailing Center every August/September.

  4Sleeping

  Old Town has excellent budget and midrange options. The CBD and Dōngbù have the top-end international chains but a lot l
ess soul. Rates increase by as much as 30% in July and August, when sun-seekers fill the beaches.

  oKǎiyuè Hostelling InternationalHOSTEL$

  (凯越国际青年旅馆, Kǎiyuè Guójì Qīngnián Lǚguǎn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0532 8284 5450; kaiyuehostel@126.com; 31 Jining Lu, 济宁路31号 dm ¥55-75, r ¥100-300, without bathroom ¥70-150; aW)

  This spacious, sociable, friendly and helpful hostel in a historic church at Sifang Lu and Jining Lu has a lively congregation. They come to worship in the slick new bar and restaurant (Jinns' Café), which serves great pizza and desserts on the ground floor; there's a great movie room too. Rooms are good value for money. Live music kicks off in the bar.

  Héngshān No 5 HostelHOSTEL$

  (恒山路5号国际青年旅社 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0532 8288 9888; http://hengshan5.com; 5 Hengshan Lu, 恒山路5号 dm/r ¥60/175; ai)

  On a short street south of the Governor’s House Museum, this bright and cheery hostel in a white, three-storey mansion was once the servants' quarters. Beds and bunks in dorms and doubles are similar (tidy, pine frame, reasonably soft). In the garden, sunny Luka Garden Cafe & Bistro serves fantastic coffee and Kiwi fare, and feels like home on the patio.

  YHA Old ObservatoryHOSTEL$

  (奥博维特国际青年旅舍, Àobówéitè Guójì Qīngnián Lǚshè MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0532 8282 2626; www.hostelqingdao.com; 21 Guanxiang Erlu, 观象二路21号 dm ¥80-90, r with/without bathroom from ¥428/380, discounted to ¥198/168; aiW)

  Perched on a hill in a working observatory, this quiet hostel has unbeatable views of the city and bay. Take them in with a drink in hand in the pleasant rooftop Sunset Lounge. Staff provide all the usual hostel services, plus they organise outings around town and Láo Shān. Comfort levels vary – some doubles have nicer bathrooms. Book in advance.

  Wheat Youth HostelHOSTEL$$

  (麦子青年旅社, Màizi Qīngnián Lǚshè MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0532 8285 2121; www.qdmaizi.com; 35 Hebei Lu, 河北路35号 dm ¥80-148, r with/without bathroom ¥385/355; aiW)

  The Maizis fell in love with backpacking and each other in western China, and this fine hostel is the result of their partnership. It's in a beautiful, restored pīcháiyuàn, the courtyard apartments of 1920s Qīngdǎo, within a 10-minute walk of the train station. They designed this to provide all the services a weary traveller could possibly hope for.

  Rooms are spotless with nostalgic details and creaky hardwood floors (if only there was more than one common shower room on busy mornings). There's a modern library and entertainment lounge, plus a bar where you can pick up good travel advice. Discounts of 50%.

  oShangri-La HotelHOTEL$$$

  (香格里拉大酒店 GOOGLE MAP ; %0532 8388 3838; www.shangri-la.com/qingdao/shangrila/; 9 Xianggang Zhonglu, 香港中路9号 d ¥1100-1500, ste ¥1800-6000; naWs)

  The Shangri-La brand is a reliable symbol of excellence throughout China, and even more so in this outstanding hotel. We could point to the stylish and comfortable rooms, the dazzling 25m swimming pool or the panoply of fine dining choices and we would be right on the money. But it's the staff that make this place a clear cut above the rest.

  Sea View Garden HotelHOTEL$$$

  (海景花园大酒店, Hǎijìng Huāyuán Dàjiǔdiàn %0532 8587 5777; http://seaviewgardenqingdao.com; 2 Zhanghua Lu, 彰化路2号 r ¥900-1700, ste from ¥1360; naiWs; g231, 232)

  Numerous five-star offerings have brought intense competition to the top bracket, but this hotel on the water distinguishes itself with beyond professional service. Refreshments, hot towels and even unsolicited delivery of homemade soup to ease a cough – we could get used to this, assuming our credit cards don’t max out. Fortunately, the service charge is already included and discounts up to 40% are available.

  China Community Art & CultureHOTEL$$$

  (老转村公社文华术酒店, Lǎozhuǎncūn Gōngshè Wénhuá Yìshù Jiǔdiàn GOOGLE MAP ; %0532 8576 8776; www.chinagongshe.com; 8 Minjiang Sanlu, 闽江三路8号 s/d from ¥288/328, ste ¥1088; g228, 402, 604)

  With silk lanterns illuminating the hallways, ceramic bowls serving as sinks, wood-floor showers and antique furnishings, each sumptuously decorated room in this polished hotel in the heart of Dōngbù has the feel of a courtyard residence. There’s a fantastic restaurant on premises. Discounts of 10%. Some English spoken.

  5Eating

  Qīngdǎo’s kitchens have no problem satisfying all tastes. The waterfront area from No 6 to No 1 Bathing Beach is brimming with restaurants – priced for tourists. The Dōngbù neighbourhood of Hong Kong Garden (香港花园; Xiānggǎng Huāyuán) around Xianggang Zhonglu is jam-packed with hip, international eateries: Korean, Japanese, Thai, Italian and Russian are just some of the cuisines on offer. Take bus 222 or 231.

  Chūn Hé LóuSHANDONG$

  (春和楼 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0532 8282 4346; 146-150 Zhongshan Lu; 中山路146-150号 mains from ¥25; h11am-3.30pm & 5-9.30pm; g2, 228)

  In the old quarter of town, this Lǔ (Shāndōng) cuisine institution was founded in 1891 and makes legendary pot stickers (锅贴; guōtiē) and crispy, fragrant chicken (香酥鸡; xiāngsū jī). The top-floor tables have the most atmosphere and get the full attention of the chefs. Downstairs is a fast-food version, with a takeaway counter for dumplings.

  oWángjiě ShāokǎoGRILL$

  (王姐烧烤 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 113 Zhongshan Lu, 中山路113号 skewers ¥3-12; h10am-9.30pm)

  Qīngdǎo’s kebabs are legendary and these are among the best, so give them your palate's undivided attention. Join the throng outside this streetside stand gorging on lamb (羊肉; yángròu), cuttlefish (鱿鱼; yóuyú) and chicken hearts (鸡心; jīxīn), and toss your spent skewers in the bucket. There’s a sit-down restaurant around the corner.

  Huángdǎo MarketSTREET FOOD$

  (黄岛路市场, Huángdǎo Lù Shìchǎng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; mains from ¥8; h7am-late; g228, 231)

  In the heart of Old Town, this long-standing, frenetic street market is chock-a-block with vendors selling (depending on the time of day) squirming seafood, fried chicken, pancakes, fruit, soy milk…it’s all cheap, so just stop when something catches your fancy. Nearby Zhifu Lu has sit-down, curbside joints (look for a ‘加功' – jiā gōng – sign) that will prepare whatever seafood you bring them for ¥5.

  Mǎ Jiā LāmiànNOODLES$

  (马家拉面 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 44 Gaomi Lu, near Yizhou Lu, 高密路44号 noodles ¥8-14; h9am-11pm; g222, 308)

  This Old Town hole-in-the-wall isn't as done up as its neighbours, but the Hui family that runs it makes a variety of handmade noodles and skewers without short cuts. You can taste the effort. The beef noodle soup (牛肉面; niǔròu mìan) is savoury and good, but you can’t go wrong and it’s all cheap.

  Bottomless refills of soup and raw garlic or chilli sauce for accompaniment.

  oChina Community Art & CultureSHANDONG, SICHUANESE$$

  (老转村公社文华艺术酒店, Lǎozhuǎncūn Gōngshè Wénhuá Yìshù Jiǔdiàn GOOGLE MAP ; %0532 8077 6776; 8 Minjiang Sanlu, 闽江三路8号 mains from ¥48, 8-course set meal ¥68; h11.30am-10pm; g228, 312)

  This lovely restaurant next to its namesake hotel is in a stylised Hakka roundhouse (the sort once mistaken by the CIA for missile silos). The kitchen turns out sophisticated regional cuisine from Shāndōng and Sìchuān. Everything from the mushrooms to water for the tea is locally sourced from Láo Shān.

  Cafè YumINTERNATIONAL$$$

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0532 8388 3838 ext 6008; 9 Xianggang Zhonglu, 香港中路9号 buffet breakfast/lunch/dinner ¥159/193/274; h6-10am, 11.30am-2.30pm & 5.30-9.30pm)

  All-you-can-eat buffets go on all day in the swish Shangri-La Hotel, so save it for an empty tummy. They're pricey, perhaps, but the international spreads are a glutton’s paradise. Did we mention the free-flow beer? Dress is smart-casual, so ditch the beachwear. Reservations recommended.

  LOCAL SEAFOOD

  For the staple local seafood, stick to the streets. The Táidōng neighbourhood between Taidong Yilu (台东一路)
and Taidong Balu (台东八路) in Shìběi district (市北区) north of Old Town is packed with restaurants, street markets and carts. Take bus 2, 222 or 217. For the quintessential Qīngdǎo meal, buy a jīn of clams – in local-speak gálá (蛤蜊; from ¥18) – and take it to a streetside stall with ‘加功' (jiā gōng) on its sign. They’ll cook up your catch for ¥5, and pour you a bag of fresh Tsingtao beer for ¥8 more (decanting it into a glass is tricky). (Pints and pitchers also available if you want to be fancy.)

  6Drinking & Nightlife

  The first stop for any committed tipplers should probably be the many drinking holes along Beer Street where you can sample the delicious dark, unfiltered yuánjiāng (原浆啤酒; pint ¥15), which is hard to find elsewhere.

  The youth hostel bars are pleasant, particularly Sunset Lounge on the top of YHA Old Observatory and Jinns' Café in Kǎiyuè Hostelling International.

  Luka Garden Cafe & BistroCAFE

  (路过花园咖啡, Lùguò Huāyuán Kāfēi MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %185 0024 2021; 5 Hengshan Lu, 恒山路5号 h8.30am-9pm; W)

  In a city where new coffee shops open up daily, here in the garden of Hengshan No 5 Hostel there's excellent java a-brewing (from ¥25). There's also food inspired by barista Matt's New Zealand roots, from legit meat pies (¥62) to fresh lamb chops (¥120) and fish and chips (¥52).