Tour boats (游船; yóuchuán) leave from the dock across from the temple itself for 30-minute day (¥60) and evening (¥80) trips along the Qínhuái River (秦淮河; Qínhuái Hé) between 9am and 10pm.
Taiping Heavenly Kingdom History MuseumMUSEUM
(太平天国历史博物馆, Tàipíng Tiānguó Lìshǐ Bówùguǎn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 128 Zhonghua Lu, 中华路128号 ¥30; h8am-5pm; mSanshan Jie)
Hong Xiuquan, the Hakka leader of the quasi-Christian Taiping, had a palace built in Nánjīng (then named Tiānjīng or 'Heavenly Capital'), but the building was completely destroyed when Nánjīng was bloodily retaken in 1864, after a long siege. This museum is set in a beautiful Ming dynasty garden complex that once housed Taiping officials. Displays of maps show the progress of the Taiping army, Taiping coins, weapons, uniforms and texts that describe the radical Taiping laws on agrarian reform, social law and cultural policy.
The museum was closed for refurbishment at the time of writing, although some of its contents had been moved to a nearby hall within Zhān Garden.
Imperial Examinations History MuseumMUSEUM
(江南贡院历史陈列馆, Jiāngnán Gòngyuàn Lìshǐ Chénlièguǎn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 1 Jinling Lu, 金陵路1号 ¥20; h8.30am-10pm; mFuzimiao)
This museum is a reconstruction of the building where scholars once spent months – or years – in tiny cells studying Confucian classics in preparation for the exacting civil-service examinations. The exhibition provides valuable insights into the overexacting culture of Confucian officialdom in dynastic China.
West Nánjīng
oMemorial Hall of the Nánjīng MassacreMEMORIAL
(南京大屠杀纪念馆, Nánjīng Dàtúshā Jìniànguǎn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 418 Shuiximen Dajie, 水西门大街418号 h8.30am-4.30pm Tue-Sun; mYunjin Lu)F
In the city’s southwestern suburbs, the disturbing exhibits in the Memorial Hall of the Nánjīng Massacre document the atrocities committed by Japanese soldiers against the civilian population during the occupation of Nánjīng in 1937. They include pictures of actual executions – many taken by Japanese army photographers – and a gruesome viewing hall built over a mass grave of massacre victims. At times it feels overwhelming but visitors will begin to fathom the link between the massacre and the identity of the city.
THE RAPE OF NáNJīNG
In 1937, with the Chinese army comparatively weak and underfunded and the Japanese army on the horizon, the invasion and occupation of Nánjīng appeared imminent. As it packed up and fled, the Chinese government encouraged the people of Nánjīng to stay and the city gates were locked, trapping more than half a million citizens inside.
What followed in Nánjīng was six weeks of brutality to an extent unwitnessed in modern warfare. According to journalists and historians such as Iris Chang and Joshua Fogel, between 200,000 and 300,000 Chinese civilians were killed, either in group massacres or individual murders, during Japan’s occupation of Nánjīng. Within the first month at least 20,000 women between the ages of 11 and 76 were raped. Women who attempted to refuse or children who interfered were often bayoneted or shot.
The Japanese, however, underestimated the Chinese. Instead of breaking the people’s will, the invasion fuelled a sense of identity and determination. Those who did not die – broken as jade – survived to fight back.
North Nánjīng
Jīmíng TempleBUDDHIST TEMPLE
(鸡鸣寺, Jīmíng Sì MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jimingsi Lu, 鸡鸣寺路 ¥5; h7.30am-5pm, to 5.30pm summer; mJimingsi)
Alongside the city's Ming walls and Xuánwǔ Lake (Xuánwǔ Hú) is Buddhist Jīmíng Temple, first built in AD 527 during the Three Kingdoms period and rebuilt many times. The seven-storey-tall Yàoshīfó Pagoda (药师佛塔) offers views over Xuánwǔ Lake. Enter the base of the pagoda to see the spectacle of hundreds of gold Buddha figures in cabinets and then head up to the rear of the temple for a lovely walk along the city wall (admission ¥15; 8am-4pm).
Xuánwǔ Lake ParkPARK
(玄武湖公园, Xuánwǔhú Gōngyuán MAP GOOGLE MAP ; h7am-9pm; mXuanwumen)F
The vast lake within this lovely, verdant 530-hectare park – backing onto the towering city wall – is studded with five interconnected isles, scattered with bonsai gardens, camphor and cherry-blossom trees, temples and bamboo groves. It's a lovely escape from Nánjīng's urban expanses, while the entire lake circuit is a whopping (and enjoyable) 9.5km jaunt. There are also boat rides (¥70 per hour), pedalos (¥60 to ¥100 per hour) and buggy rides (¥12).
Zhōngyāng GateMONUMENT
(中央门, Zhōngyāng Mén MAP GOOGLE MAP )
One of the original 13 Ming city gates, located in the north of town. The name means 'Central Gate'.
Nánjīng UniversityUNIVERSITY
(南京大学, Nánjīng Dàxué MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Hankou Lu, 汉口路 )
This delightfully historic campus is worth a stroll to appreciate its traditional architecture, lovely trees and green spaces.
Nánjīng Normal UniversityUNIVERSITY
(南京师范大学, Nánjīng Shīfàn Dàxué GOOGLE MAP ; www.njnu.edu.cn; 122 Ninghai Lu, 宁海路122号 mZhujianglu)
Established in 1902 and located in the centre of town; the lovely campus is well worth an exploration.
Yangzi River BridgeBRIDGE
(南京长江大桥, Nánjīng Chángjiāng Dàqiáo GOOGLE MAP ; g67, mShangyuanmen)
Opened on 23 December 1968, the Yangzi River Bridge is one of the longest bridges in China – a double-decker with a 4.5km-long road on top and a train line below. Stirring socialist-realist sculptures can be seen on the approaches. Odds are that you’ll probably cross the bridge if you take a train from the north. Probably the easiest way to get up on the bridge is to go through the Bridge Park (Dàqiáo Gōngyuán; Baotaqiao Dongjie; 宝塔桥东街 adult/child ¥12/10; h7.30am-6.30pm; g67).
Tragically, it has become the world's premier suicide site, surpassing even the Golden Gate Bridge in San Francisco.
Catch bus 67 from Jiangsu Lu, northwest of the Drum Tower (鼓楼; Gǔlóu), to its terminus opposite the park. The nearest metro station is at Shangyuanmen, but that's a few kilometres away to the northeast.
Zǐjīn Mountain
Dominating the eastern fringes of Nánjīng is Zǐjīn Mountain (紫金山; Zǐjīn Shān), or ‘Purple-Gold Mountain’, a heavily forested and hilly area of parks, and the site of the lion's share of Nánjīng’s historical attractions. It’s one of the coolest places to flee the steamy summer heat, but it can get crowded. Give yourself a day to explore it properly; discounts exist if tickets to various sights are purchased together. The area is accessible by bus, metro and taxi, and small tourist buses shuttle between some of the main sights.
oSun Yatsen MausoleumMEMORIAL
(中山陵, Zhōngshān Líng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; h6.30am-6.30pm; g9, Y1, Y2, Y3, mXiamafang)
An astonishing sight at the top of an enormous stone stairway (a breathless 392 steps), Sun Yatsen's tomb is a mandatory stop for Chinese visitors. Reverentially referred to as guófù (国父; Father of the Nation), Dr Sun is esteemed by both communists and Kuomintang. He died in Běijīng in 1925, and had wished to be buried in Nánjīng, no doubt with far less pomp than the Ming-style tomb his successors fashioned for him. Within a year of his death, however, construction of this mausoleum began.
At the start of the path stands a dignified marble gateway, capped with a roof of blue-glazed tiles. The blue and white of the mausoleum symbolise the white sun on the blue background of the Kuomintang flag.
The crypt lies at the top of the steps at the rear of the memorial chamber. A tablet hanging across the threshold is inscribed with the ‘Three Principles of the People’, as formulated by Dr Sun: nationalism, democracy and people’s livelihood. Inside is a statue of a seated Dr Sun (who is better known to the Chinese as Sun Zhongshan, rather than Sun Yatsen). The walls are carved with the complete text of the 'Outline of Principles for the Establishment of the Nation' put forward by the Nationalist government. A
prostrate marble statue of Dr Sun seals his copper coffin.
Shuttle buses (¥5) resembling red steam trains speed to and from the Línggǔ Temple Scenic Area.
oLínggǔ Temple Scenic AreaBUDDHIST TEMPLE
(灵谷寺风景区, Línggǔ Sì Fēngjǐng Qū GOOGLE MAP ; ¥80; h7am-6.30pm; gY2, Y3, mZhonglingjie)
This expansive temple complex contains one of the most historic buildings in Nánjīng – the Beamless Hall (无梁殿; Wúliáng Diàn), built in 1381 entirely out of brick and stone and containing no beam supports. Buildings during the Ming dynasty were normally constructed of wood, but timber shortages meant that builders had to rely on brick. The structure has a vaulted ceiling and a large stone platform where Buddhist statues once sat.
A road runs on both sides of the hall and up two flights of steps to the graceful Pine Wind Pavilion (松风阁; Sōngfēng Gé), originally dedicated to Guanyin as part of Línggǔ Temple. The ochre-walled temple is also home to the Dàbiàn Juétáng (大遍觉堂) memorial hall, dedicated to Xuan Zang (the Buddhist monk who travelled to India and brought back the Buddhist scriptures). Inside the memorial hall is a statue of the travelling monk, pen aloft, with a cabinet housing a golden model of a pagoda with part of Xuan Zang’s skull within it. To his right is a model wooden pagoda, also within a cabinet.
Uphill to the rear of the temple is the colourful Línggǔ Pagoda (灵谷塔; Línggǔ Tǎ). This nine-storey, 60m-high, octagonal pagoda was finished in 1933 under the direction of a US architect, to remember those who died during the Kuomintang revolution. A vegetarian restaurant can be found nearby. Both tour buses Y2 and Y3 run to the Línggǔ Temple from Nánjīng Train Station. Alternatively, take the metro to Zhonglingjie station, then hop on tour bus Y2 from a stop a short walk west. Bright red shuttle buses (¥5) resembling steam trains regularly connect the area to the Sun Yatsen Mausoleum, shuttling to and fro.
oMíng Xiàolíng TombTOMB
(明孝陵, Míng Xiàolíng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ¥70; h8am-5.30pm, to 6.30pm summer; gY3, mMuxuyuan)
Zhu Yuanzhang (1328–1398), the founding emperor of the Ming dynasty (also known as the Hongwu Emperor), was buried in the tomb of Míng Xiàolíng; he was the only Ming emperor buried outside Běijīng. The area surrounding the tomb is the Míng Xiàolíng Scenic Area (明孝陵风景区; Míng Xiàolíng Fēngjǐngqū MAP GOOGLE MAP ). A tree-lined pathway winds around pavilions and picnic grounds and ends at scenic Zǐxiá Lake (Zǐxiá Hú; 紫霞湖 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ¥10; h6.30am-6pm), ideal for strolling. A combo ticket for the tomb and the Lińggǔ Temple Scenic Area is ¥100.
The first section of this magnificent mausoleum is a 618m ‘spirit path’, lined with stone statues of lions, camels, elephants and horses that drive away evil spirits and guard the tomb. Among them lurk two mythical animals: a xiè zhì, which has a mane and a single horn on its head, and a qílín, which has a scaly body, a cow’s tail, a deer’s hooves and one horn.
As you enter the first courtyard, a paved pathway leads to a pavilion housing several stelae. The next gate leads to a large courtyard with the Línghún Pagoda (Línghún Tǎ), a mammoth rectangular stone structure. Follow the crowds through a long uphill tunnel to a wall (which children and visitors clamber up!) and a huge earth tumulus (called the Soul Tower; 明楼; Mínglóu), beneath which is the unexcavated tomb vault of the emperor. On the wall are inscribed the characters '此山明太祖之墓' ('This hill is the tomb of the first Ming emperor'). The other Ming emperors are buried outside Běijīng at the Ming Tombs (十三陵; Shísān Líng).
Near the entrance is Plum Blossom Hill.
From Muxuyuan metro station (Line 2), it’s a 1.6km walk uphill. Tour bus Y3 from the city centre also takes you here.
Plum Blossom HillHILL
(梅花山, Méihuā Shān )
Near the entrance to the Míng Xiàolíng Tomb, this large copse of plum trees bursts into floral fragrance each spring, drawing crowds. It's the site of the Nánjīng International Plum Blossom Festival.
zFestivals & Events
oNánjīng International Plum Blossom FestivalCULTURAL
(梅花节, Méihuā Jié hFeb/Mar)
Held yearly from the last Saturday of February to early March, this festival takes place on Plum Blossom Hill near the Míng Xiàolíng Tomb when the mountain explodes into pink and white blossoms. It's a gorgeous sight.
4Sleeping
Most of Nánjīng’s accommodation is midrange to top end in price and it's very hard to score a bargain. Cheaper guesthouses will not take foreigners, but you can try your luck. All places have wi-fi (signal strength can vary from room to room) and most places can also help to book air and train tickets. There are a couple of hostels of note, however, and at least one of excellent repute.
oNánjīng Time International Youth HostelHOSTEL$
(南京时光国际青年旅舍, Nánjīng Shíguāng Guójì Qīngnián Lǚshè MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %025 8556 9053; www.yhachina.com; 6-5 Yongyuan, Méiyuán Xīncūn, 梅园新村雍园6-5号 dm ¥60, r ¥180-220; ai; mXi'anmen)
Time – for atmosphere alone it’s the best in town – is in a republican-era mansion not far from the Presidential Palace. The area is lovely: small, leafy alleys with period properties and some serious tranquillity. Dorms are very clean and rooms offer a simplistic charm. There are a lot of common areas, including a relaxing rooftop terrace and a fine ground-floor bar.
The cheapest double rooms come without window. The salubrious – central yet very quiet – neighbourhood guarantees you a good night's sleep. The hostel is hidden away down an alley with lots of twists and turns in the Méiyuán Xīncūn district, north of Changjiang Lu. Download a map from the hostel website for directions.
Orange Hotel (Dashiba)HOTEL$$
(桔子酒店, Júzi Jiǔdiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %025 8696 8090; www.orangehotel.com.cn; 26 Dashiba Jie, 大石坝街26号 r ¥329-529; aiW; mFuzimiao or Wudingmen)
In a great riverside location within walking distance to the Fūzǐ Temple area, this branch of the very popular chain has modern rooms, with good bedding and lighting and every gizmo and gadget your computer, tablet or mobile phone might ever need. It’s worth paying a few more bucks for the rooms with river-facing balconies. Other pluses include complimentary fruit and free use of the hotel’s bikes.
oHilton HotelHOTEL$$$
(南京万达希尔顿酒店, Nángjīng Wàndá Xī'ěrdùn Jǐudiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %025 8665 8888; www3.hilton.com; 100 Jiangdong Zhonglu, 江东中路100号 d/ste ¥1200/2300; aWs; mJiqingmen)
This sleekly polished five-star hotel, opening to a gargantuan marbled lobby with a huge calligraphic dedication and a vast and stylised depiction of Zǐjīn Mountain behind reception, is the town's best choice. Rooms are spacious and modern, there are three restaurants and service is tip-top. It's slightly out of the action in the southwest of town, but the metro is nearby.
PRICE RANGES
EATING
The following price ranges refer to the cost of a main course.
$ less than ¥30
$$ ¥30–¥70
$$$ more than ¥70
SLEEPING
The following price ranges refer to the cost of a double room with private bathroom or shower room.
$ less than ¥250
$$ $$¥250–¥800
$$$ more than ¥800
5Eating
Nánjīng abounds with a fantastic choice of restaurants. For street food, snacking zones and loads of restaurants, the main eating quarters include the Fūzǐ Temple complex and Shīziqiáo (狮子桥) off Hunan Lu, where you can find snack stands and small eateries. Slick restaurants can be found towards the centre around Xinjiekou, and dotted around town.
oDàpái DàngJIANGSU$
(大牌档, Nanjing Impressions MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 7th fl, Deji Plaza, 18 Zhongshan Lu, 中山路18号德基广场7楼 mains from ¥16; h11am-10.30pm; mXinjiekou)
This hectic, fun and vast place, decorated like a Qing dynasty eatery, with waiters scurrying around in period garb and lanterns hanging o
verhead, is deservedly packed out. There's a handy photo menu for ordering fried dumplings with pork, leek and mushroom (¥12 for three), sliced fish soup with preserved vegetables (¥48), Nánjīng fried noodles (¥16) and oodles of other tasty local dishes.
With eight branches in town, it's a big name in Nánjīng, but if you arrive during a busy period (such as weekends), you'll have to grab a ticket and wait in line outside. It's on the 7th floor of Deji Plaza just north of the Xinjiekou intersection at the heart of town: take exit 7 from the Xinjiekou metro station and take the lift or escalators upstairs.
oXiānmǎn Táng Shíguō MǐxiànNOODLES$
(鲜满堂石锅米线 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %025 853 0017; 488 Zhujiang Lu, 珠江路488号 noodles from ¥16; h9am-9pm; mFuqiao)
If you've only ¥16 to your name and you're half-starved, hand your cash over to the staff. For ¥16 to ¥18 you can get a vast steaming bowl of rice noodles with copious amounts of chicken, beef, pork or fish thrown in. The fish noodles (水煮鱼片米线; shuǐzhǔ yúpiàn mǐxiàn) in particular is superb (watch out for bones); free refills of noodles available.
There are three degrees of spiciness: slightly (微辣; wēilà), moderately (中辣; zhōnglà) and full-on (香辣; xiānglà). It's not a hole in the wall and is pleasantly designed with blond wood and grey brickwork. Packed at meal times.
Běijīng KǎoyādiànPEKING DUCK$
Lonely Planet China Page 45