Hofang International Youth HostelHOSTEL$
(荷方国际青年旅社, Héfāng Guójì Qīngnián Lǚshè MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0571 8706 3299; 67 Dajing Xiang, 大井巷67号 dm ¥55, s/d ¥188/288; aiW)
Pleasantly tucked away from the noise down a historic alley off Qīnghéfāng Old Street, this hostel has an excellent location and exudes a pleasant and calm ambience, with attractive rooms, the cheapest of which come with tatami. Note that prices go up by between ¥30 and ¥60 on weekends and holidays. The adjoining hostel cafe is a cosy place to check emails with a coffee.
In Lake Youth HostelHOSTEL$
(柳湖小筑青年旅社, Liǔhú Xiǎozhù Qīngnián Lǚshè MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0571 8682 6700; 5 Luyang Lu, 绿杨路5号 dm ¥70, tw/d ¥378/408; aW)
Well located a few steps from West Lake off Nanshan Lu, this attractive choice is all Mediterranean arches and ochre shades, with a lovely plant-filled interior courtyard. Rooms have wood flooring and tall radiators, six-person dorms (all with shower) are clean and there's a roof terrace for barbecues, a downstairs cafe and bar, and welcoming staff. Prices rise at weekends.
Mingtown Youth HostelHOSTEL$
(明堂杭州国际青年旅社, Míngtáng Hángzhōu Guójì Qīngnián Lǚshè MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0571 8791 8948; 101-11 Nanshan Lu, 南山路101-11号 dm/s/d ¥65/180/210; aW)
With its pleasant lakeside location, this friendly and highly popular hostel is often booked out, so reserve well ahead. It has a relaxing cafe-bar, offers ticket booking, internet access, self-service kitchen and laundry and has an attractive outdoor area.
West Lake 7 Service ApartmentsAPARTMENT$$
(西湖柒号酒店公寓, Xīhú Qīhào Jiǔdiàn Gōngyù MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 1 Yuewang Lu, 岳王路1号 d ¥320)
These large and comfortable serviced apartments offer excellent value for money, with facilities including a washing machine, kitchen and surprisingly speedy wi-fi. The location is not bad, set right next to the Wushan Lu Night Market, and just a few blocks' walk from the West Lake.
Crystal Orange HotelHOTEL$$
(桔字水晶酒店, Júzi Shuǐjīng Jiǔdiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0571 2887 8988; www.orangehotel.com; 122 Qingbo Jie, 清波街122号 d from ¥408; aiW)
Sleek chain hotel with a modern and stylish interior. Bold Warhol prints decorate the high lobby walls, and there's a glass lift to take you up the four floors. Sadly no views of West Lake from the neat rooms (some of which don't have windows), but this is reflected in the reasonable room rates.
Tea Boutique HotelHOTEL$$$
(杭州天伦精品酒店, Hángzhōu Tiānlún Jīngpǐn Jiǔdiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0571 8799 9888; www.teaboutiquehotel.com; 124 Shuguang Lu, 曙光路124号 d incl breakfast ¥898; naiW)
The simple but effective wood-sculpted foyer area with its sinuously shaped reception is a perfect introduction to the lovely accommodation at this hotel. A Japanese-minimalist mood holds sway with celadon tea sets and tall, elegant stems of greenery artfully arranged. Muted colours and natural materials in the bedrooms create a zen atmosphere.
Four Seasons Hotel HángzhōuHOTEL$$$
(杭州西子湖四季酒店, Hángzhōu Xīzihú Sìjì Jiǔdiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0571 8829 8888; www.fourseasons.com/hangzhou; 5 Lingyin Lu, 灵隐路5号 d ¥3500, ste from ¥6500; naiWs)
More of a resort than a hotel, the fabulous 78-room, two-pool Four Seasons enjoys a seductive position in lush grounds next to West Lake. Low-rise buildings and three private villas echo traditional China, a sensation amplified by the osmanthus trees, ornamental shrubs, ponds and general tranquillity.
PRICE RANGES
EATING PRICE INDICATORS
$ less than ¥60
$$ ¥60 to ¥120
$$$ more than ¥120
SLEEPING PRICE INDICATORS
$ less than ¥300
$$ ¥300 to ¥800
$$$ more than ¥800
5Eating
Hángzhōu has endless zones dedicated to the art of feasting – try Gaoyin Jie, a long sprawl of neon-lit restaurants or Zhongshan South Road Food Street. Many of the smarter restaurants around the West Lake itself also offer good-value and interesting meals.
oGreen Tea RestaurantHANGZHOU$
(绿茶, Lǜchá MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 250 Jiefang Lu, 解放路250号 mains from ¥20; h10.30am-11pm; mLongxiangqiao)
Often packed, this excellent Hángzhōu restaurant has superb food. With a bare-brick finish and rows of clay teapots, the low-lit dining room is sleek and trendy. Prices are surprisingly low, with the signature fish-head dish the most expensive thing on the menu at ¥48. Eggplant claypot and a Cantonese bread and ice-cream dessert are also sensational.
Ordering can get complicated: scan the QR code on the table and select dishes direct through the menu that will load up on your phone. If you're having trouble, staff are happy to help.
oGrandma’s HomeHANGZHOU$
(外婆家, Wàipójiā MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 3 Hubin Lu, 湖滨路3号 mains ¥15-35; hlunch & dinner; mLongxiangqiao)
There's no end to the hype about this restaurant, which now has branches across the whole country, with eager diners constantly clustering outside. It almost lives up to its reputation, with low prices and generous portions but dishes do vary enormously in quality. The braised pork and tea-scented chicken are both good bets to get a taste of classic Hangzhou flavours.
Take a paper ticket when you arrive and be prepared to wait a long time for a table.
Zhongshan South Road Food StreetMARKET$
(中山南路美食街, Zhōngshān Nánlù Diàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Zhongshan Nanlu, 中山南路美食街 h5.30pm-late)
Hángzhōu is spoilt for choice when it comes to foodie streets, and this stretch of Zhongshan Nanlu (starting at the Drum Tower) is an absolute delight. Casual sit-down restaurants line the road, and stalls that run along the middle of the road sell everything from fresh seafood and deep-fried insects to Beggar's Chicken and the absolute stinkiest of stinky tofu.
Northwest Family RestaurantXINJIANG$
(西北人家, Xīběi Rénjiā MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 22 Youdian Lu, 上城区邮电路9号 mains ¥35-45; h9.30am-11.30pm)
A busy neighbourhood restaurant serving typical Uighur fare with rich, hearty gravies, lots of lamb and bread. The range of fresh fish and traditional soups is also excellent. Quiet during the day, this place does a roaring trade at night, with a barbecue of meat skewers outside, available to have at your table or takeaway.
Xièxie Tea & CoffeeCAFE$
(谢谢咖啡, Xièxie Kāfēi MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 180 Nanshan Lu, 南山路180号 mains ¥47-67; h9am-midnight; W)
A beautifully airy three-storey cafe, Xièxie looks out onto the treetops of the park over the road and is a great spot to unwind over a cup of tea or coffee. A young crowd armed with phones, laptops and tablets sprawl on comfy sofas that are never more than arm's reach from a plug socket.
Yīhé Zángxiāng Beef NoodlesNOODLES$
(伊禾藏香牛肉面, Yīhé Zángxiāng Niúròu Miàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 238 Yan'an Lu, 延安路238号 noodles from ¥19; h6.30am-11.30pm)
A superb lunch stop, where the restaurant's namesake – beef noodles – is a must-order. These are done Lanzhou-style (read: magnificently fiery) and the meat is served separately so you can drop it in yourself. Long spacious tables looking out onto bustling Yan'an Lu make this a great stop for families or solo diners, and service is efficient and friendly.
Innocent Age Book BarCHINESE$
(纯真年代书吧, Chúnzhēn Niándài Shūbā 8 Baochuta Qian Lu, 保俶塔前山路8号 dishes from ¥22; h9.30am-midnight)
You couldn't ask for a prettier setting than this cafe, set just down the slope of Bǎoshí Shān from Bǎochù Pagoda. Indoors, there's a quiet reading-room atmosphere and the shelves are full of books. Outside is a glorious terrace overlooking the West Lake. Snacks, cakes, tea and coffee are available or for good-value fuel before you continue your walk, go for a huge and flavoursome bowl of Hángzhōu beef noodles.
Nan Fang Mi ZongDUMPL
INGS$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Youdian Lu, 邮电路 per bun ¥2; h6.30am-6.30pm)
Who would have thought the humble bāozi could taste so good? The fluffy steamed buns served at this small stall near the Rénhé Hotel building are simply huge, and come with either pork or a sweet bean filling. The pork ones are sensational, with top-quality meat and a rich gravy. Queues stretch right down the street in the morning.
CarbonEUROPEAN
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 10 Beishan Lu, 北山路10号 mains ¥130-250; h11am-11pm)
The crowd is super-stylish, the lakeside location is outstanding, and the chandeliers, gorgeous botanical arrangements and soft-wood decor make Carbon a fine place for an evening meal. The food itself doesn't quite live up to the lovely setting, with a menu that's trying to please everyone and zigzags between cuisines (think baked snails to flammekueche via pineapple fried rice).
Follow up your meal with a drink in the balmy night air on the outdoor terrace if the mood takes you.
HáNGZHōU IN...
ONE DAY
Day trippers should start as early as possible to enjoy the misty air and relative solitude of the early-morning West Lake. Stroll along the water's edge until you come to one of the cruise boat departure points and settle back to enjoy the ride to Xiǎoyíng Island and Gushan Island. Both deserve at least an hour to explore at a leisurely pace. Jump in a taxi to the glorious Léifēng Pagoda, climbing to the top to see Hángzhōu's finest panorama, then cross the road to visit Jìngcí Temple and admire the huge seated Buddha effigy. Finish the day with a slap-up meal at Green Tea.
TWO DAYS
Take a morning hike into Hángzhōu's hills, stopping off to see the serene Bàopǔ Taoist Temple (抱朴道院; Bàopǔ Dàoyuàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ¥5; h6am-5pm) along the route. Coming back into town, take some time to stroll through one of Hángzhōu's green spaces, such as Qūyuàn Garden or Tàizǐwān Park before continuing to the noisy buzz of Qīnghéfāng Old Street for a spot of shopping. Walk to Zhongshan South Road Food Street to try everything from local delicacy Beggar's Chicken or squid on sticks to fresh seafood and juice. Once full, head to JZ Club or Midtown Brewery for great drinks, music and a taste of Hángzhōu's increasingly sophisticated nightlife.
6Drinking & Nightlife
oJZ ClubCLUB
(黄楼, Huáng Lóu MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0571 8702 8298; www.jzclub.cc; 6 Liuying Lu, by 266 Nanshan Lu, 柳营路6号 h7pm-2.30am)
The folk that brought you JZ Club in Shànghǎi have the live jazz scene sewn up in Hángzhōu with this neat three-floor venue in a historic building near West Lake. There are three live jazz sets nightly, with music kicking off at 9.15pm (until 12.30am). There's no admission charge, but you’ll need to reserve a seat on Fridays and Saturdays.
Smokers get to go upstairs.
oMidtown BreweryPUB
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 1st fl, Shangri-la Hotel, 6 Changshou Lu, 长寿路6号杭州城中香格里拉大酒店1楼 )
The craft-beer craze has certainly hit Hángzhōu and the standout place to sample some top-notch craft beers is Midtown Brewery. Housed in the Shangri-La hotel, the beers are brewed on-site and are genuinely outstanding. If you need convincing, order the tasting paddle (¥99) of seven samplers, including pale ale, porter and stout. Service is smooth and the setting smart and contemporary.
Eudora StationBAR
(亿多瑞站, Yìduōruìzhàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 101-107 Nanshan Lu, 南山路101-107号 h9.30am-2am)
A fab location by West Lake, roof terrace, outside seating and great happy-hour deals conspire to make this welcoming watering hole a solid choice. There’s sports TV, live music, a good range of imported beers, and barbecues fire up on the roof terrace in the warmer months.
WEST LAKE CRUISE BOATS
West Lake Cruise BoatsBOATING
(游船, Yóuchuán MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Hubin Lu, 湖滨路 round trip adult/child ¥70/35; h7am-5pm)
Wooden cruise boats shuttle from a number of points around West Lake (including Gushan Island, Yue Fei Temple, Red Carp Pond and No 1 Park at the south end of Hubin Lu) past the Mid-Lake Pavilion to Xiǎoyíng Island, which has a fine central pavilion and ‘nine-turn’ causeway. Boats depart either every 20 minutes or when full.
Your ticket allows you to take another boat on to Gushan Island or to any of the other cruise-boat docks.
If you want to contemplate the moon at a slower pace, hire one of the smaller six or 11 person boats (小船; xiǎo chuán; about one hour; small boat ¥150, large boat ¥180) rowed by a boatsperson. Look for them along the causeways. Self-rowing boats are also available, but foreign tourists are not allowed to access these without a Chinese escort.
7Shopping
Hángzhōu Silk CitySILK
(丝绸城, Sīchóu Shìchǎng GOOGLE MAP ; 253 Xinhua Lu, 新华路253号 h8am-5pm)
Hángzhōu is famous for its silks and there are certainly bargains to be found in this seven-storey market. You'll have to work hard to get them, though. Head straight for the 5th and 6th floors (lower levels just sell regular clothes) to find scarves, slinky nightwear, dresses, qìpào (traditional Chinese sheath dresses) and other silk items. If you haggle with persistence, vendors will usually let you bargain them down by around 30%.
Wushan Lu Night MarketMARKET
(吴山路夜市, Wúshān Lù Yèshì MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Huixing Lu, 惠兴路 h7-10.30pm)
Wushan Lu Night Market doesn't have too much to offer by way of interesting souvenirs, but it's still a pleasant place to stroll for half an hour or so. Stalls sell knock-off cosmetics and bags, cheap clothes, shoes, plastic jewellery and other knick-knacks to an excited crowd of mostly teenagers. Get the gloves off and haggle hard if something catches your eye.
Better still, spend your cash at the street-food stalls that line Renhe Lu, where you can pick up skewers of spicy beancurd, seasoned sweetcorn, noodles, fried dumplings and a vast range of other snacks.
The market is located on Huixing Lu (惠兴路), between Youdian Lu (邮电路) and Renhe Lu (仁和路).
WEST LAKE HILLS WALK
For a manageable and breezy trek into the forested hills above West Lake, walk up a lane called Qixialing, immediately west of the Yuè Fēi Temple. The road initially runs past the temple’s west wall to enter the shade of towering trees, with stone steps leading you up. At Zǐyún Cave (Purple Cloud Cave; 紫云洞 GOOGLE MAP ) the hill levels out and the road forks; take the right-hand fork towards the Bàopǔ Taoist Temple, 1km further, and the Bǎochù Pagoda. At the top of the steps, turn left and, passing the Sunrise Terrace, again bear left. Down the steps, look out for the tiled roofs and yellow walls of the charming Bàopǔ Taoist Temple to your right; head right along a path to reach it. Come out of the temple’s back entrance and turn left towards the Bǎochù Pagoda and, after hitting a confluence of three paths, take the middle track towards and up Toad Hill (蛤蟆峰; Hámá Fēng), which affords supreme views over the lake, before squeezing through a gap between huge boulders to meet the Bǎochù Pagoda rising ahead. Restored many times, the seven-storey grey brick pagoda was last rebuilt in 1933, although its spire tumbled off in the 1990s. Continue on down and pass through a páilou (牌楼) – or decorative arch – erected during the Republic (with some of its characters scratched off) to a series of stone-carved Ming-dynasty effigies ( GOOGLE MAP ), all of which were vandalised in the tumultuous 1960s, save two effigies on the right. Turn left here and walk a short distance to some steps heading downhill to your right past the remarkable weathered remains of a colossal stone Buddha by the cliff-face (with square niches cut in him) – all that remains of the Big Buddha Temple. Continue on down to Beishan Lu.
8Information
Dangers & Annoyances
Hángzhōu is overall a safe, clean city. It's wise to take extra care on public holidays when crowds can be overwhelming.
Gay & Lesbian Travellers
Local attitudes towards members of the LGBT community are mixed, but there are a handful of thriving gay bars in Hángzhōu. Check out lo
cal listings mag More Hangzhou (http://morehangzhou.com) for more info.
Internet Access
Twenty-four-hour internet cafes are in abundance around the main train station (typically ¥8 per hour); look for the neon signs ‘网吧’.
Medical Services
Zhèjiāng University First Affiliated HospitalHOSPITAL
(浙江大学医学院附属第一医院, Zhèjiāng Dàxué Yīxuéyuàn Fùshǔ Dìyī Yīyuàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0571 8723 6114; 79 Qingchun Lu, 庆春路79号 h8am-4pm)
Money
Bank of China – Yanan LuBANK
(中国银行, Zhōngguó Yínháng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 320 Yanan Lu, 延安路320号 h9am-5pm)
A useful central branch with currency exchange.
Bank of China – Laodong LuBANK
(中国银行, Zhōngguó Yínháng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 177 Laodong Lu, 劳动路 177 h9am-5pm)
Offers currency exchange plus 24-hour ATM.
Industrial & Commercial Bank of ChinaBANK
(ICBC, 工商银行, Gōngshāng Yínháng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 300 Yan’an Lu, 延安路300号 )
Has a 24-hour ATM.
Lonely Planet China Page 51