Zhūjiājiǎo can also be reached from the bus station in Tónglǐ (¥15, 1½ hours).
Fújiàn
Xiamen
Glang Y
Fujian Tlou
Quanzhou
Around Quanzhou
Fuzhou
Wyi Shan
Fújiàn
Pop 37.2 million
Why Go?
Fújiàn (福建) is an attractive coastal province with a long seafaring history. As a significant stop on the maritime Silk Road, its cities developed an easy cosmopolitan outlook and visitors are surprised by the traces of elsewhere in its architecture, food, language and people.
Xiàmén is the star attraction to visitors, with its long seaside promenade and easy access to little Gǔlàng Yǔ, a hip island enclave just offshore. Many travellers also pass through the area en route to the Taiwanese island of Kinmen.
Away from the coast, the Unesco World Heritage-listed tǔlóu (roundhouses) rise out of the countryside and for generations have housed traditional Hakka and Fujianese communities. Further north, the hill station of Wǔyí Shān offers year-round hiking opportunities and a memorable river cruise on bamboo rafts.
When to Go
AMar & Apr Sleeping in a traditional tǔlóu (roundhouse) in spring is an inspiring way to experience rural life.
AJun & Sep Relax in one of Gǔlàng Yǔ’s countless cafes and cool off in the sea.
AOct Hike away from the crowds around the lush Wǔyí Shān in the northwest of the province.
Best Places to Eat
A Lucky Full City Seafood
A Lāohǎi Wù
A Gǔcuò Cháfáng
Best Places to Sleep
A Xiàmén International Youth Hostel
A Miryam Boutique Hotel
A 54 Coffee Inn
A Fúyù Lóu Chángdì Inn
Fújiàn Highlights
1 Gǔlàng Yǔ Drifting between cat-filled cafes on a car-free Chinese island with European flair.
2 Fújiàn Tǔlóu Sleeping in packed earth fortresses like a character from Game of Thrones.
3 Quánzhōu Exploring the city’s temples and near-medieval streets on the maritime Silk Route.
4 Wǔyí Shān Hiking and cleansing your lungs at a quaint hill station in the province’s northwest.
5 Xiàmén Strolling the seaside promenade of one of China’s most attractive cities.
6 Nine Twists River Reclining in a rattan chair on a zhúpái (bamboo raft) cruise.
History
The coastal region of Fújiàn, known in English as Fukien or Hokkien, has been part of the Chinese empire since the Qin dynasty (221–207 BC), when it was known as Min. Sea trade transformed the region from a frontier into one of the centres of the Chinese world. During the Song and Yuan dynasties the coastal city of Quánzhōu was one of the main ports on the maritime Silk Road, which transported not only silk but other textiles, precious stones, porcelain and a host of other valuables. The city was home to more than 100,000 Arab merchants, missionaries and travellers.
Despite a decline in the province’s fortunes after the Ming dynasty restricted maritime commerce in the 15th century, the resourcefulness of the Fújiàn people proved itself in the numbers heading for Taiwan, Singapore, the Philippines, Malaysia and Indonesia. Overseas links that were forged continue today, contributing much to the modern character of the province.
8Getting there & Away
Fújiàn is well connected to the neighbouring provinces of Guǎngdōng and Jiāngxī by train and coastal highway. Xiàmén and Fúzhōu have airline connections to most of the country, including Hong Kong, and Taipei and Kaohsiung in Taiwan. Wǔyí Shān has flight connections to China’s larger cities, including Běijīng, Shànghǎi and Hong Kong. The coastal freeway also goes all the way to Hong Kong from Xiàmén. The D class train links Xiàmén to Shànghǎi in eight hours.
8Getting Around
For exploring the interior, high-speed D trains are more comfortable than travelling by bus, but not always more convenient. Wǔyí Shān is linked to Fúzhōu, Quánzhōu and Xiàmén by train. There are also daily flights between Xiàmén and Wǔyí Shān.
Xiàmén 厦门
%0592 / Pop 2.1 million
Xiàmén (厦门), the island city formerly known in Western circles as Amoy, is emerging as southern China’s most sophisticated city. Chinese travellers have long understood the lure of its long seaside promenade and European city architecture, but international ‘jetizens’ are now descending on the fun.
Many use Xiàmén as a stepping-off point for the much smaller island of Gǔlàng Yǔ, perhaps the highlight of the entire province. Strewn with crumbling embassies, lush gardens and beaches, and hip boutique cafes and hotels, this island feels like a kind of Chinese Mediterranean, in all its wonderful oddity.
History
Xiàmén was founded around the mid-14th century in the early years of the Ming dynasty, when the city walls were built and the town was established as a major seaport and commercial centre. In the 17th century it became a place of refuge for the Ming rulers fleeing the Manchu invaders. Xiàmén and nearby Kinmen (金门; Jīnmén) were bases for the Ming armies who, under the command of the general Koxinga, raised their anti-Manchu battle cry, ‘resist the Qing and restore the Ming’.
The Portuguese arrived in the 16th century, followed by the British in the 17th century, and later by the French and the Dutch, all attempting, rather unsuccessfully, to establish Xiàmén as a trade port. The port was closed to foreigners in the 1750s and it was not until the Opium Wars that things began to change. In August 1841 a British naval force of 38 ships carrying artillery and soldiers sailed into Xiàmén harbour, forcing the port to open. Xiàmén then became one of the first treaty ports.
Japanese and Western powers followed soon after, establishing consulates and making Gǔlàng Yǔ a foreign enclave. Xiàmén turned Japanese in 1938 and remained that way until 1945.
Xiàmén & Gǔlàng Yǔ
1Sights
1Bo'ai HospitalB4
Consulate InnB4
2Ecclesia CatholicaA4
3Former Japanese ConsulateA4
Former Spanish ConsulateA4
Guāncǎi LóuA3
4Kāihé Lù Fish MarketB2
5Koxinga Memorial HallA4
6Law CourtA3
7Nánpǔtuó TempleD4
8Organ MuseumA3
9Railroad Culture ParkD2
10Sānyī ChurchA3
11Sunlight Rock ParkA4
Yìzú ShānzhuāngA3
4Sleeping
12Gǔlàng Yǔ International Youth HostelA3
13Gǔlàng Yǔ Lù Fēi International Youth HostelA3
14Hotel Indigo Xiàmén HarbourB3
15Liángzhù Boutique Lifestyle HotelC1
16Miryam Boutique HotelA4
17Mogo Cafe HotelA4
18Xiàmén International Youth HostelD4
19Xiàmén Locanda International Youth HostelB3
5Eating
32/HOW cafeC1
20Babycat CaféA3
21Chu Family CoffeeA4
22Huángzéhé Peanut Soup ShopB2
23Huìyí Mǐntái TèchǎnB2
24Kāihé ShāchámiànB1
25Líjì Mùdān FishballA3
26Lóngtóu FishballA3
27Lucky Full City Seafood Dim SumA2
28Seaview RestaurantB2
3Entertainment
29Huāng Róngyuǎn VillaB4
7Shopping
30Xinhua BookshopB2
1Sights
The town of Xiàmén is on the island of the same name. It’s connected to the mainland by a 5km-long causeway bearing a railway, a Bus Rapid Transit (BRT) line, road and footpath. The most absorbing part of Xiàmén is near the western (waterfront) district, directly opposite the small island of Gǔlàng Yǔ. This is the old area of town, known for its colonial-era architecture, parks and winding streets.
Báilùzhōu ParkPARK
(白鹭洲公园, Bá
ilùzhōu Gōngyuán Bailuzhou Lu, 思明区白鹭洲路 )
Xiàmén positions itself as China’s most liveable city and this huge green expanse on an islet north of town is a quiet exclamation mark on that claim. Perfect for families or broken souls who need to touch grass for a while.
Kāihé Lù Fish MarketMARKET
(开禾路菜市场, Kāihélù Càishìchǎng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Kaihe Lu)
In the old district of Xiàmén, this tiny but lively market sells various (weird) sea creatures to a backdrop of qílóu (骑楼; shophouses) and a church. Access is from Xiahe Lu, where you can also find lots of Taiwanese food.
Nánpǔtuó TempleBUDDHIST SITE
(南普陀寺, Nánpǔtuó Sì MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Siming Nanlu; h8am-6pm)F
This Buddhist temple complex on the southern side of Xiàmén is one of the most famous temples among the Fujianese, and is also considered a pilgrimage site by dedicated followers from Southeast Asia. The temple has been repeatedly destroyed and rebuilt. Its latest incarnation dates to the early 20th century, and today it’s an active and busy temple with chanting monks and worshippers lighting incense.
Báichéng BeachBEACH
(Báichéng Shātān, 白城沙滩 )
You can rarely swim here due to council restrictions, but there are few more convenient places in the city to enjoy a beautiful natural environment, especially at sunset. Except on weekends, when every man and his mobile turn up.
Railroad Culture ParkPARK
(铁路文化公园, Tiělù Wénhuà Gōngyuán MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Huyuan Lu, 虎园路 )
The charming 3km walking trail on an abandoned railway track in this park makes a welcome change from the crowds of the city. It is reached by bus number 1, 15, 20, 122, 135. Get off at Dashengli (大生里站).
Húlǐ Shān FortressNOTABLE BUILDING
(胡里山炮台, Húlǐ Shān Pàotái admission ¥25; h7.30am-5.30pm)
Across Daxue Lu, south of Xiàmén University, is this gigantic German gun artillery built in 1894. You can rent binoculars to peer over the water to the Taiwanese-occupied island of Kinmen (金门; Jīnmén), formerly known as Quemoy and claimed by both mainland China and Taiwan. To get here, walk for 2km south along the coastal path.
THE HEYDAY OF AMOY
When you are in Xiàmén, get a copy of Old Xiamen, Cradle of Modern Chinese Business & Chinese Business Education, edited by Dr Bill Brown, a long-time local resident from the US. The book explains in a most readable way how Xiàmén has historically played a vital role in fostering cultural interactions between the East and the West, and it also has a wonderful collection of old prints, news clips and literary extracts about the city dating back to as early as Marco Polo’s time. The affordable paperback (¥30) is available in Xinhua Bookshop (新华书店; Xīnhuá Shūdiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 155 Zhongshan Lu; h9am-5pm).
zFestivals & Events
Dragon Boat RacesSPORTS
(龙舟竞渡, Lóngzhōu Jìngdù hJun)
Held in Xiàmén at the Dragon Pool (龙舟池; Lóngzhōu Chí) in Jíměi (集美) every June. They are quite a sight.
4Sleeping
Xiàmén International Youth HostelHOSTEL$
(厦门国际青年旅舍, Xiàmén Guójì Qīngnián Lǚshè MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0592-208 2345; www.yhaxm.com; 41 Nanhua Lu, 南华路41号 dm from ¥60, d ¥218-298, f ¥318-348; aiW)
This is the best hostel in Fújiàn. Spacious mixed dorms share a clean bathroom between up to six guests; stylish double rooms – some with balcony – would suit a boutique hotel; and the excellent family rooms make it a popular base for the entourage. Reception can be a little regimented, but sunlight pours through the splendid backyard and into the communal lounge room.
Jinjiang Inn Xiamen UniversityHOSTEL$
(厦门锦江之星大学店, Xiàmén Jǐnjiāng Zhīxīng Dàxuédiàn %0592 252 2666; www.jinjiang.com; 5 Fengchaoshan Lu, Siming District, 思明区蜂巢山路5号 r ¥200-300; aW)
You won’t need to re-visit your university days just yet – this branch of the J1 budget hotel franchise is far from a frat house – but you will have easy access to the beautiful grounds of Xiàmén University. Rooms are blissfully quiet and self-contained. Top value.
Xiàmén Locanda International Youth HostelHOSTEL$
(厦门卢卡国际青年旅舍, Xiàmén Lúkǎ Guójì Qīngnián Lǚshè MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0592-208 2918; www.locandahostel.com; 35 Minzu Lu, 民族路35号 4-/6-bed dm ¥60/55, s/d & tw ¥208/258; aiW)
Xiàmén’s ‘other’ hostel feels like a family guesthouse set over two levels and has a large, pleasant garden, though the dorm rooms are much smaller than at the more famous rival. Staff compensate though with gregarious service and the location in Siming is very relaxing.
Liángzhù Boutique Lifestyle HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
(良筑, Liángzhù MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0592 207 1322; www.liangzhu22.com; 22 Huaxin Lu, 华新路22号 r ¥410-618; aW)
Old-world hospitality makes a guest appearance at this 1950s chocolate-coloured villa discreetly located in central Xiàmén. The eight rooms are designed in competing aesthetics – some busier than others – so look at a few before settling. The garden provides a lovely breakfast setting.
Ring Island Coast InnGUESTHOUSE$$
(环岛海岸客栈, Huándǎo Hǎiàn Kèzhàn %0592-219 6677; www.xm-inn.com; 20 Zeng Cuo An, Huandao Nanlu, 环岛南路曾厝安20号 r ¥150-350; ai)
Further southeast of Xiàmén University is the fishing village of Zēng Cuō Ān where locals tourists descend on weekends for street food and coastal breezes. Of the numerous guesthouses, Ring Island has the most experience with foreigners and perhaps the best views from its two elevated rooms. The cheaper rooms, all decorated like vibrant student digs, have neither the view nor an attached bathroom. To get there, catch bus 29 from Siming Nanlu.
Kempinski Hotel XiamenLUXURY HOTEL$$$
(厦门源昌凯宾斯基大酒店, Xiàmén Yuánchāng Kǎibīnsījī Dàjiǔdiàn %0592 258 8888; www.kempinskihotel.com/en/xiamen; 98 Hubin Zhonglu, 湖滨中路98号 d ¥920-1220; paWs)
The Kempinski label is growing in stature and the futuristic design of the Xiàmén branch, located splendidly on Bailuzhou Lake, will do its reputation no harm. Inside the lobby glitters, and the ceilings are high enough for an abseiling wall. When you reach the rooms, enjoy the beauty products and fluffy pillows. There’s a top gym to work off your meal at the German restaurant.
Hotel Indigo Xiàmén HarbourHOTEL$$$
(厦门海港英迪格酒店, Xiàmén Hǎigǎng Yīndígé Jiǔdiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0592-226 1666; www.hotelindigo.com; 16 Lujiang Dao, 鹭江道16号 d ¥1200-1400; nai)
The small rooms at the sea-facing Indigo are daubed in bright colours and have Gulang Yu firmly in their sights. Staff work hard to please, especially at check-in where generous discounts are common.
PRICE RANGES
SLEEPING
The following price ranges refer to a double room with bathroom:
$ less than ¥250
$$ ¥250–¥500
$$$ more than ¥500
EATING
The following price ranges refer to a main meal:
$ less than ¥40
$$ ¥40–¥100
$$$ more than ¥100
5Eating
Kāihé ShāchámiànNOODLES$
(开禾沙茶面 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 126 Xiahe Lu, 厦禾路126号 noodles from ¥12; h24hr)
Shāchámiàn is Fújiàn’s favourite street noodle dish sauced with dried fish, onion and chilli. Which animal protein you choose to add on top depends on personal preference – pork and shellfish feature prominently – or you can opt for tofu and egg. This simple shop is identifiable by the yellow characters on the green front panel.
Huángzéhé Peanut Soup ShopSOUP$
(黄则和花生汤店, Huángzéhé Huāshēng Tāngdiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 22-24 Zhongshan Lu, 中山路20号 snacks ¥4-10; h6.30am-10.30pm)
For 60 years this humble counter-service restaurant has filled an unusual craving f
or sweet huāshēng tāng (花生汤; peanut soup). Other snacks include fried zǎo (枣; red dates) and hǎlìjiān (海蛎煎; oyster omelette). You need to purchase coupons that you hand over when you order food.
Huìyí Mǐntái TèchǎnSWEETS$
(汇怡闽台特产 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 75 Zhongshan Lu, 中山路75号 h9am-9pm)
Fújiàn sweets include zǐcài huāshēng (紫菜花生, sweet seaweed peanuts; ¥20 per bag), liúlián táng (榴莲糖, durian candy) and li hing mui (旅行梅, sugared plum kernels). Box them up to go.
oLucky Full City SeafoodDIM SUM$$
(潮福城, Cháofú Chéng 28 Hubin Beilu, 湖滨北路28号 dim sum from ¥14, meals from ¥70; h10am-1am)
If you eat out once in Xiàmén, join the queues for this Cantonese culinary masterclass. Stack up the exquisite dim sum dishes like egg buns, roasted pigeon and pork dumplings. Try to visit outside peak times. Catch a taxi here: the driver will know where it is. It also has a branch 200m north of Lúndù ferry terminal.
Lucky Full City Seafood Dim SumDIM SUM$$
Lonely Planet China Page 66