When to Go
AMay Cooler than the sapping summer months and not as blustery as early spring.
ALate May–early Sep Good time for trips to cooler, mountainous Wǔtái Shān.
ALate Sep Enjoy the comfortable start of the lovely Shānxī autumn.
Best Places to Eat
A Fènglín Gé
A Dōngfāng Xiāo Miàn
A Tónghé Dàfàndiàn
A Déjūyuán
Best Places to Sleep
A Jing's Residence
A Harmony Guesthouse
A Garden Hotel
A Déjūyuán Guesthouse
A Hongqi Hotel
Shānxī Highlights
1 Píngyáo Wandering the cobblestone ancient streets of this time-warped, walled town.
2 Yúngāng Caves Discovering the grandeur of these magnificent Buddhist statues.
3 Dàtóng Checking out the lavish restoration of the city wall and the old town.
4 Wǔtái Shān Hanging up your traveller’s hat in this scenic and mountainous monastic enclave.
5 Guōyù Journeying to this still-inhabited historical walled village in Shānxī’s remote southeast.
6 Lǐjiā Shān Experiencing 'old' China with an overnight stay at the Ming-dynasty cave village.
7 Mián Shān Hiking among the sublime and vertigo-inducing scenery on this magnificent mountain.
8 Shuānglín Temple Admiring some of China's most ancient in situ temple statuary.
History
Though home to the powerful state of Jin, which split into three in 403 BC, Shānxī really only rose to greatness with the Tuoba, a clan of the Xianbei people from Mongolia and Manchuria who made Dàtóng their capital during the Northern Wei (AD 386–534). Eventually the Tuoba were assimilated, but as China weakened following the Tang collapse, the northern invaders returned; most notable were the Khitan (907–1125), whose western capital was also in Dàtóng.
After the Ming regained control of northern China, Shānxī was developed as a defensive outpost, with an inner and outer Great Wall constructed along the northern boundaries. Local merchants took advantage of the increased stability to trade, eventually transforming the province into the country’s financial centre with the creation of China’s first banks in Píngyáo.
Today Shānxī is best known for its many mines; the province contains one-third of all China’s coal deposits and parts of it are heavily polluted, while Dàtóng has experienced an astonishing, if controversial, facelift.
8Getting There & Around
There are airports at Dàtóng and Tàiyuán, with flights to cities across China. Tàiyuán and Píngyáo are connected to Běijīng and other cities by high-speed rail, while long-distance buses run to neighbouring provinces and further afield.
Modern railway lines and roads split Shānxī on a northeast–southwest axis, so getting between Dàtóng, Tàiyuán and Píngyáo is no problem, with long-distance buses taking up the slack.
Dàtóng 大同
%0352 / Pop 3.3 million
Dàtóng today is fascinating, and charming to boot. Come night-time, the old-town sensations – with red lanterns swinging in the breeze and wind chimes tinkling on the illuminated city walls – are hard to beat. Most of this has been re-created from scratch by an overambitious mayor: a mountain of cash – an estimated ¥50 billion – has been ploughed into a colossal renovation of the old quarter. The city wall has been rebuilt in its entirety (well, almost) and the city has shown how it can cut it with other drawcard cities such as Hángzhōu and Xī'ān. What's more, the town is the gateway to the awe-inspiring Yúngāng Caves, one of China’s most outstanding Buddhist treasures. Dàtóng is also a launchpad to the photogenic Hanging Monastery, the world’s oldest wooden pagoda, crumbling earthen sections of the Great Wall and onward trips to sacred Wǔtái Shān.
History
Dàtóng has long held a strategic position on the edge of the Mongolian grasslands, first rising to greatness as the capital of the Tuoba. A federation of Turkic-speaking nomads who united northern China (AD 386–534) and converted to Buddhism, the Tuoba were eventually assimilated into Chinese culture (like most other invaders). The Tuoba established the Northern Wei dynasty, whose greatest achievement here was the Yúngāng Caves, a collection of sublime 5th-century Buddhist carvings that capture a quiet, timeless and evocative beauty. The dynastic capital was later moved to Luòyáng in Hénán province and the rock carving continued at the astonishing Lóngmén Grottoes.
Dàtóng
1Top Sights
1China Sculpture MuseumB3
2Dài WángfǔB3
3Nine Dragon ScreenB3
1Sights
4Dàtóng CathedralB3
5Huáyán TempleB3
6Old TownB3
7Shànhuà TempleB4
4Sleeping
8Garden HotelB4
9Green Island Youth HostelB1
10Hongqi HotelB1
5Eating
11Dōngfāng Xiāo MiànA4
12Fènglín GéB4
Tónghé DàfàndiànB1
8Information
13Agricultural Bank of ChinaB4
14Industrial & Commercial Bank of ChinaB1
1Sights
oNine Dragon ScreenWALLS
(九龙壁, Jiǔlóng Bì MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Da Dongjie, 大东街 ¥10; h8am-6.30pm)
With its nine beautiful multicoloured coiling dragons, this 45.5m-long, 8m-high and 2m-thick Ming dynasty spirit wall was built in 1392. One of the finest in China (there are two more in Běijīng), it’s the largest glazed-tile yǐngbì (影壁) spirit wall in China and is a truly amazing sight; the palace it once protected belonged to the 13th son of a Ming emperor and burnt down in 1644. Amazingly, the palace is being rebuilt in its entirety, covering a vast area of town.
Old TownHISTORIC SITE
(老城区, Lǎochéngqū MAP GOOGLE MAP )
Dàtóng’s old town has been massively resurrected at colossal expense to put Dàtóng back on the map. The former mayor – now Tàiyuán's mayor – ploughed a fortune into trying to turn Dàtóng back into an old town (by rebuilding it). Sadly, and typical in China, a considerable amount of the original old town was levelled before being rebuilt. Nonetheless, what is on show is alluring, especially at night when lanterns delightfully illuminate the old town.
oDàtóng City WallFORTRESS
(大同城墙, Dàtóng Chéngqiáng ¥30; h8am-9.30pm)
This incredible city wall has been rebuilt from the soles up in what must be one of the greatest feats of engineering to hit Dàtóng since, well, since the last time it was built. Prior to the rebuild, the wall had been denuded of bricks and reduced to earthen stumps. At present, you can only walk around three sides of the wall – the gate in the west is still under construction. The wall is not the original, but looks sublime.
oDài WángfǔPALACE
(代王府 MAP GOOGLE MAP )
Originally built in 1392 but burned to the ground in a huge conflagration in 1644 during the last gasps of the Ming dynasty, this vast palace (191,000 sq metres) complex reaches all the way north from Da Dongjie to a street shy of the city walls. Under construction since 2011, all that survives of the original palace is the Nine Dragon Screen. The palace was still undergoing construction at the time of writing.
oChina Sculpture MuseumGALLERY
(中国雕塑博物馆, Zhōngguó Diāosù Bówùguǎn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Da Beijie, 大北街 h8.30am-11.30am & 2.30-5.30pm Tue-Sun)F
This cavernous museum is built within the north Wǔdìng Mén gate section of the restored city walls, with seemingly endless corridors of excellent contemporary sculpture by Chinese and foreign artists. When you get bored of looking at statues and photography, look out for uncovered sections of the original city walls at the very rear, dating from the Ming, Jin, Liao and Northern Wei dynasties. You will need your passport for admission.
Dàtóng CathedralCHURCH
(大同天主堂, Dàtóng Tiānzhǔtáng MAP GOOGLE M
AP ; Lǐhuáijiǎo, 李怀角 )
This cathedral – also called the Cathedral of the Immaculate Heart of Mary – is an astonishing sight once you find it and stand before its twin bell towers. Built in 1891, the church was burned down on 13 July 1900 during the xenophobic and anti-Christian Boxer Rebellion, taking a few Catholics with it; it was rebuilt in 1906. Both bell towers were destroyed in 1966 during the Cultural Revolution, but the house of worship was repaired in 1982 and 2006.
Shànhuà TempleBUDDHIST SITE
(善化寺, Shànhuà Sì MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Nansi Jie, 南寺街 ¥40; h8am-6pm)
Originally constructed in AD 713 and today standing just inside the magnificent and rebuilt city walls, Shànhuà Temple was rebuilt during the Jin dynasty. The grand wooden-bracketed hall at the rear contains five beautiful central Buddhas and expressive statues of celestial generals in the wings. Look out for the impressive and quite colossal turquoise, yellow and ochre five-dragon screen (五龙壁; wǔlóngbì). It stands outside the current temple perimeter, so is free to admire.
The temple name literally means 'Betterment Temple'.
Huáyán TempleBUDDHIST SITE
(华严寺, Huáyán Sì MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Huayan Jie, 华严街 ¥80; h8am-6.30pm; g38)
Built by the Khitan during the Liao dynasty (AD 907–1125), this temple faces east, not south (it’s said the Khitan were sun worshippers) and is divided into two separate complexes. One of these is an active monastery (upper temple), while the other is a museum (lower temple). Dating to 1140, the impressive main hall of the Upper Temple (上华严寺; Shàng Huáyán Sì) is one of the largest Buddhist halls in China, with Ming murals and Qing statues within.
4Sleeping
oGreen Island Youth HostelHOSTEL$
(绿岛青年旅舍, Lǜdǎo Qīngnián Lǚshě MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %158 3524 4211; www.facebook.com/datongyouthhostel; 5th fl, block A, Jinhu Guoji building, 1029 Weidu Dadao, 魏都大道1029号金湖国际A座5层 dm ¥50-55, d ¥160-210; aW)
This new hostel in a huge tower block puts dorm beds and comfortable double rooms within an easy stroll of the train station, while numerous buses trundle into the walled city not far away. The main common area is a bit small, but everything is neat and Simon the owner is helpful and friendly. It has excellent coffee too.
The entrance is at the rear of the building; go in and you will find a lift. The hostel can sort out ticketing and offers very handy travel tips. It's also very convenient for the bus to the Yúngāng Caves, which leaves from just outside.
oHongqi HotelHOTEL$$
(红旗饭店, Hóngqí Fàndiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0352 536 6111, 0352 536 6666; www.hongqihotel.com; 11 Zhanqian Jie, 站前街11号 s & tw ¥380, ste ¥680-1288, all incl breakfast; aW)
This classic place opposite the train station has excellent rooms, drinkable tap water, fully equipped shower rooms with regularly restocked toiletries, very friendly staff (in huge abundance) and prices that regularly dip to a very attractive ¥218. The included buffet-style breakfast is also excellent, with a Western option provided.
oGarden HotelHOTEL$$$
(花园大饭店, Huāyuán Dàfàndiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0352 586 5888; www.gardenhoteldatong.com; 59 Da Nanjie, 大南街59号 d & tw incl breakfast ¥1080-1780, tw ¥1380-1580, ste ¥2880-3880; naiW)
The large impeccable rooms at this hotel feature goose-down quilts, carved rosewood bed frames, reproduction antique furnishings and superb bathrooms. There's an attractive atrium with a cafe lounge and fake palms, Latin American and Chinese restaurants, plus excellent staff. The impressive breakfast spread includes decent espresso coffee. Significant discounts (even in high season) knock prices as low as ¥320: excellent value.
PRICE RANGES
SLEEPING
These prices are for a double room with private bathroom or shower room.
Category Cost
$ less than ¥200
$$ ¥200–¥500
$$$ more than ¥500
EATING
The following prices are for a main dish at a restaurant.
Category Cost
$ less than ¥30
$$ ¥30–¥60
$$$ more than ¥60
5Eating
Fènglín GéCHINESE$
(凤临阁 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0352 205 9799; near cnr Gulou Xijie & Huayan Jie, 鼓楼西街华严街路口 mains from ¥25; h6.30-9.30am, 11.30am-2pm & 5.30-9pm; aW)
Exquisite and delectable shāomai (steamed dim-sum dumpling) is the star of the show at this traditionally styled restaurant at the heart of the old town. Order by the steamer (笼; lóng) or half steamer. The crab shāomai are succulent and gorgeous, but not cheap (¥15 each, half steamer ¥45); there's lamb too (¥7 each, half steamer ¥26) and other tempting fillings.
Dōngfāng Xiāo MiànNOODLES$
(East Wheat, 东方削面 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Yingze Jie, 迎泽街 noodles from ¥6; h7am-10pm)
Forgive the chain-store decor and bear the long queues (always a good sign) and you'll soon be in noodle heaven. Steaming bowls of the humble Shānxī speciality (削面; xiāo miàn) is the star here; have it with pork, beef or lamb and pair it with a variety of side dishes such as sliced cucumbers. A beer will help top it all off.
A large bowl of noodles with pork will only set you back ¥7.50, for lamb it's ¥10.
Tónghé DàfàndiànCHINESE$
(同和大饭店 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Zhanqian Jie; dishes ¥16-40; h11am-2pm & 6-9pm)
This fantastic, bright and cheery spot alongside the Hongqi Hotel can look a little intimidating with its big round tables better suited to functions, but solo diners can pull up a chair no problem. There’s a huge range of tasty, well-presented dishes on the picture menu, suiting all budgets.
8Information
Agricultural Bank of ChinaBANK
(ABC, 中国农业银行, Zhōngguó Nóngyè Yínháng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Da Nanjie; 大南街 )
ATM and money exchange.
China PostPOST
( GOOGLE MAP ; Da Nanjie, 大南街 )
A short walk south from the Garden Hotel.
China PostPOST
( GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Weidu Dadao & Zhanbei Jie, 魏都大道站北街路口 )
Industrial & Commercial Bank of ChinaBANK
(ICBC, 工商银行, Gōngshāng Yínháng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Weidu Dadao, 魏都大道 )
Public Security BureauVISA AGENCY
(PSB, 公安局出入境接待处, Gōng’ānjú Chūrùjìng Jiēdàichù %0352 206 1833; junction Heng'an Jie & Wenxing Lu, 恒安街与文兴路交汇处 h9am-noon & 3-5.30pm Mon-Fri)
In the east of town, beyond the city walls.
8Getting There & Away
Air
Located 20km east of the city, small Dàtóng Yúngāng Airport has flights to Běijīng (¥450, one hour), Shànghǎi (¥1450, 2½ hours) and Guǎngzhōu (¥1650, 4½ hours). Buy tickets at www.ctrip.com or www.elong.net.
Bus
Buses from the south bus station (新南站; xīnnán zhàn), located 9km from the train station:
ABěijīng ¥120, four hours, hourly, 8am to 5.30pm
AMùtǎ ¥26, 1½ hours, hourly, 7.30am to 7pm
ATàiyuán ¥100, 3½ hours, 8.50am, 10am, 11am and 1.30pm
AWǔtái Shān ¥75, 3½ hours, two daily, 8.30am, 9am and 2pm; summer only
You can also catch minibuses to some of these destinations from outside the train station.
Buses from the main bus station (大同汽车站; Dàtóng Qìchēzhàn GOOGLE MAP ; %0352 246 4464; Weidu Dadao; 魏都大道 ):
AHanging Monastery ¥30, two hours, hourly, 7am to 11am
AHohhot ¥65, 3½ hours, hourly, 7.20am to 4.20pm
Regular buses (¥80) to Hohhot depart hourly from next to the Tónghé Dàfàndiàn by the train station.
Train
Train departures from Dàtóng include the following:
ABěijīng Hard seat/sleeper ¥48/108, six hours, 11 daily
AHohhot Hard seat ¥42, four hours, 16 daily
APíngyáo Hard seat/s
leeper ¥63/122, seven to eight hours, four daily
ATàiyuán Hard seat/sleeper ¥44/98, four hours, seven daily
AXī’ān Hard seat/sleeper ¥114/223, 16½ hours, one daily (4.40pm)
8Getting Around
No public transport goes to the airport. A taxi costs around ¥50.
Bus routes are being readjusted owing to the massive construction all around town, so expect changes. Buses 4 and 15 run from the train station to the main bus station. Bus 30 takes 30 minutes to run from the train station to the new south bus station. Buses 27 and 35 go to the old town from Weidu Dadao. Bus 603 runs to the Yúngāng Caves.
Taxi flagfall is ¥7.
Around Dàtóng
Yúngāng Caves
oYúngāng CavesCAVE
(云冈石窟, Yúngāng Shíkū %0352 302 6230; Dec-Feb ¥80, Mar-Nov ¥125; h8.30am-5.30pm 1 Apr-15 Oct, to 4.50pm 16 Oct-31 Mar)
Lonely Planet China Page 71