8Getting Around
The ¥50 shuttle ticket includes four bus rides: from the main ticket office to Jiǔhuá village (the base for the mountain ascent), from the village to Phoenix Pine cable car station (凤凰松站; Fènghuáng Sōng Zhàn ) and back to the village, and from the village back to the main ticket office (first bus 7am, last bus 5pm).
To get to Phoenix Pine, catch the bus (every 30 minutes or when full) from the bus station north of the main gate (cross the bridge on the right after the Jùlóng Hotel). On busy days you may need to queue for more than two hours for the cable car to/from the peak.
Héféi 合肥
%0551 / Pop 7.79 million
Héféi (合肥) is the capital of Ānhuī. Besides the excellent provincial museum, the city has little to offer tourists and works best as a transit hub.
1Sights
Central Héféi, a few kilometres southwest of the train station (and 6km north of the south train station) is ringed with parks and ponds. Changjiang Zhonglu, the main commercial street, cuts east–west through here. Huaihe Lu Buxing Jie, a busy pedestrian shopping street, runs parallel just to the north. The city's main historical sights are clustered around here.
Ānhuī New Provincial MuseumMUSEUM
(安徽省博物馆新馆, Ānhuīshěng Bówùguǎn Xīnguǎn www.ahm.cn; 268 Huaining Lu, 怀宁路268号 h9am-5pm Tue-Sun)F
If you really want to get to know Ānhuī, it's worth taking a half-day to explore the four floors of this museum, which opened in 2011. It begins with Palaeolithic artefacts (some are replicas) mined from the earliest known settlements in Eurasia, which happen to be in Ānhuī. Other exhibitions cover the region's Three Kingdoms Period history (including a replica of Cao Cao's fabulous jade burial suit) and the symbolism evoked by Huīzhōu architecture and artworks.
You'll need to show your passport to enter. The museum is 10km southwest of downtown, about a ¥30 taxi ride. The building itself is a sight to behold.
4Sleeping
Budget chain hotels can be found around the train station and on Huaihe Lu Buxing Jie. Midrange ones are located on the main commercial street of Changjiang Zhonglu.
Green Tree InnHOTEL$
(格林豪泰, Gélín Háotài GOOGLE MAP ; %0551 6265 0988; www.998.com; 24 Hongxing Lu, 红星路24号 d ¥209; aiW)
This reliable, modern midrange chain hotel offers compact, cheap and clean accommodation in a 24-room branch along a quiet residential street. There’s food and shopping within walking distance.
Holiday Inn Express DowntownHOTEL$$$
(Héféi Zhōngxīn Zhìxuǎn Jiàrì Jiǔdiàn, 合肥中心智选假日酒店 GOOGLE MAP ; %0551 6570 6888; 279 Changjiang Zhonglu, 长江中路279号 r from ¥780; paiW)
Héféi's best midrange deal is this branch of the Holiday Inn (not to be confused with all the other branches in town). It's centrally located in a building shared by a bookstore and cafe (enter the hotel around the back). Rooms are modern, clean and comfortable. Look for 50% discounts online.
WestinHOTEL$$$
(合肥万达威斯汀酒店, Héféi Wàndá Wēisītīng Jiǔdiàn GOOGLE MAP ; %0551 6298 9888; www.starwoodhotels.com/westin; 150 Ma’anshan Lu, 马鞍山路150号 d ¥2800; aiWs)
If you're counting on a good night's sleep, the Westin, Héféi's top hotel, is a safe bet. Facilities include a fitness centre, swimming pool, spa, good restaurants, and elegant and modern rooms, equipped with Westin's trademark Heavenly Beds. Look online for discounts of up to 60%.
5Eating
For food, head to the pedestrianised Huaihe Lu Buxing Jie. The side streets have cheap eats and there’s everything from fast-food chains to noodle shops. A night market sets up in the area too.
6Drinking & Nightlife
The little alley Dongxi Xiang (东西巷), off Shuguang Lu (曙光路), is a colourful strip of tiny bars and cafes with a DIY vibe – a refreshing change from the usual KTV. It's a 15-minute taxi ride from downtown, just south of Tunxi Lu (屯溪路).
ShipyardBAR, CAFE
(造船厂咖啡店, Zàochuánchǎng Kāfēidiàn 50 Shuguang Lu, 曙光路50号 h2pm-2am)
Popular expat hang-out Shipyard has decent burgers (¥55), Guinness on tap (¥60) and live music on weekends. If it gets too loud, retreat to the small courtyard out back. In the afternoon it serves coffee.
8Information
Internet cafes (网吧; wǎngbā) are clustered about 80m west of Motel 168, off Huaihe Lu Buxing Jie. You’ll need to show a passport. They're generally open from 8am to midnight and cost ¥2 per hour.
Bank of ChinaBANK
(中国银行, Zhōngguó Yínháng GOOGLE MAP ; h8.15am-5pm)
Branches on Wuwei Lu and Shouchun Lu, with currency exchange and international ATMs.
China PostPOST
(中国邮政, Zhōngguó Yóuzhèng GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Changjiang Zhonglu & Suzhou Lu, 伥江中路宿州路的路口 h8am-5pm)
There’s also a branch beside the train station.
Civil Aviation Ticket CenterTICKET OFFICE
(民航合肥售票中心, Mínháng Héféi Shòupiào Zhōngxīn GOOGLE MAP ; %0551 637 7777; 212 Shouchun Lu, 寿春路212号 h8am-6pm)
Air and train tickets.
First People’s HospitalHOSPITAL
(第一人民医院, Dìyī Rénmín Yīyuàn GOOGLE MAP ; %front desk 0551 218 3401; 390 Huaihe Lu, 淮河路390号 )
Public Security BureauPOLICE
(PSB, 公安局, Gōng’ānjú GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Shouchun Lu & Liu'an Lu, 寿春路六安路的路口 )
8Getting There & Away
Air
Héféi Xīnqiáo International Airport is 32km northwest of Héféi.
Daily flights include the following:
ABěijīng ¥1760, two hours, five daily
AGuǎngzhōu ¥1080, two hours, seven daily
AShànghǎi ¥1130, one hour, two daily
AXiàmén ¥910, 1½ hours, four daily
Airport shuttles (¥25, one hour) depart hourly (5.40am to 7.30pm) from the main bus station and the long-distance bus station. A taxi (45 minutes) costs around ¥100, including the ¥10 toll for the highway.
Bus
Centrally located Héféi long-distance bus station (合肥长途汽车站; Héféi Chángtú Qìchēzhàn GOOGLE MAP ; 168 Mingguang Lu; 明光路168号 h5.30am-9pm), near Xiāoyáojīn Park, has buses to destinations in the surrounding provinces, including:
AHángzhōu ¥138, six hours, 10 daily
ANánjīng ¥63, 2½ hours, hourly 6.55am to 5.30pm
AShànghǎi ¥160, six hours, 10am
AWǔhàn ¥148, six hours, 9am
Buses to Jiǔhuá Shān (¥88, 3½ hours, every 40 minutes, 6.40am to 5pm) leave from the tourist bus station (旅游汽车站, Lǚyóu Zìchēzhàn Zhanqian Jie; 站前街 ), 500m west of the train station.
Buses to Túnxī (¥98, four hours, 7.50am, 10.10am, 1pm and 3.20pm) via Huángshān (¥98, 3½ hours) depart from the east bus station (汽车东站; qìchē dōngzhàn 517 Changjiang Donglu; 长江东路517号 ), 5km east of the city centre.
The so-called main bus station (客运总站; Kèyùn Zǒngzhàn Zhanqian Jie; 站前街 ), just outside the train station, is for local buses only.
Train
Most (but double-check your ticket) high-speed trains depart from the new Héféi South station (合肥火车南站; Héféi Huǒchē Nánzhàn ), 6km southeast of the city centre. Express D and G trains:
ABěijīng ¥436, 4½ hours, hourly
AHuángshān North ¥141, 75 minutes, frequent
ANánjīng South ¥61, one hour, frequent
AShànghǎi Hóngqiáo ¥156 to ¥205, 3½ hours, frequent
AWǔhàn & Wǔhàn Hànkǒu ¥105 to ¥127, 2½ hours, frequent
Regular-service trains depart from Héféi train station (合肥火车站; Héféi Huǒchēzhàn ), 4km northeast of the city centre:
ABěijīng hard/soft sleeper from ¥270/420, 10 to 14 hours, six daily
AShànghǎi hard/soft sleeper from ¥173/268, 6½ to 8½ hours, seven daily
ATúnxī hard/soft sleeper from ¥114/176, six to seven hours, four daily
8Getting Around
Héféi has an extensive local bus system (rides ¥1) though it isn't helpful for visitors. Metered taxis start at ¥8. The 25-minute ride from Héféi South station to the city centre should cost ¥25; from Héféi train station expect to pay ¥20.
Hénán
Zhengzhou
Nanjiecun
Song Shan & Dengfeng
Luoyang
Around Luoyang
Guoliangcun
Kaifeng
Zhuxian Zhen
Hénán
Pop 94 million
Why Go?
Affluent Chinese may roll their eyes at the mention of impoverished and land-locked Hénán (河南), but the province’s heritage takes us back to the earliest days of Chinese antiquity. Ancient capitals rose and fell in Hénán’s north, where the capricious Yellow River (Huáng Hé) nourished the flowering of a great civilisation.
Hénán is home to China’s oldest surviving Buddhist temple and one of the country’s most astonishing collections of Buddhist carvings, the Lóngmén Grottoes. There is also the Shàolín Temple, that legendary institution where the martial way and Buddhism found an unlikely but powerful alliance. Hénán’s inability to catch up with the rest of the land perhaps helps to explain why the unusual village of Nánjiēcūn still sees a future in Maoist collectivism. Hénán is also home to the excellent walled town of Kaīfēng and the 1000-year-old craft of woodblock printing in Zhūxiān.
When to Go
AApr Luòyáng is a blaze of floral colour during the peony festival.
AJun Trips to cool Guōliàngcūn up in the Mountains of the Ten Thousand Immortals.
ASep & Oct Catch the lovely and fleeting north China autumn.
Best Places to Eat
A Luòyáng's Old Town Night Market
A Xīsī Square Night Market
A Hé Jì
Best Places to Sleep
A Courtyard & Sunlight Inn
A Luòyáng Yìjiā International Youth Hostel
A Kungfu Hostel
A Sofitel
Hénán Highlights
1 Shàolín Temple Fathoming the martial mysteries of Shàolín boxing and hiking the surrounding peaks.
2 Lóngmén Grottoes Admiring the artistry of 1500-year-old carved Bodhisattvas.
3 Guōliàngcūn Discovering the unreal scenery of the Mountains of the Ten Thousand Immortals from the perch of a cliff-top village.
4 Kāifēng Taking a trip back in time to the former capital of the Northern Song dynasty.
5 White Horse Temple Exploring the vast complex of China’s oldest Buddhist shrine, found outside Luòyáng.
6 Zhūxiān Getting acquainted with the ancient craft of Chinese woodblock printing.
7 Nánjiēcūn Rediscovering communism with Chinese characteristics.
History
It is believed that the first Shang capital, perhaps dating back 3800 years, was at Yǎnshī, west of modern-day Zhèngzhōu. Around the mid-14th century BC, the capital is thought to have moved to Zhèngzhōu, where its ancient city walls remain visible.
Hénán again occupied centre stage during the Song dynasty (AD 960–1279), but political power deserted it when the government fled south from its capital at Kāifēng following the 12th-century Jurchen invasion.
Modern Hénán has been poor and strife-prone. In 1975 Hénán’s Bǎnqiáo Dam collapsed after massive rainfall, leading to a string of other dam failures that caused the deaths of 230,000 people. In the 1990s a scandal involving the sale of HIV-tainted blood led to a high incidence of AIDS in several Hénán villages.
8Getting There & Around
Hénán is that rarity in China: a province in which travellers can get in, out and around with ease. Zhèngzhōu is the main regional rail hub; high-speed G-class and D-class trains zip between Zhèngzhōu, Luòyáng and, to a lesser extent, Kāifēng.
Luòyáng has a small airport, but Zhèngzhōu is the main hub for flying to/from Hénán.
Zhèngzhōu 郑州
%0371 / Pop 6.4 million
The provincial Hénán capital of Zhèngzhōu (郑州) is a rapidly modernising, smog-filled metropolis with few relics from its ancient past (due to Japanese bombing in WWII). Zhèngzhōu can be largely zipped through, serving as a major transport hub and access point for the Shàolín Temple and the left-field Maoist collective of Nánjiēcūn.
Zhèngzhōu
1Sights
1Chénghuáng TempleD2
4Sleeping
2Jǐnjiāng InnA3
3SofitelD1
5Eating
4Hé JìC1
5Hénán ShífǔB2
6Drinking & Nightlife
6Target PubC1
Transport
7Airport BusA3
8Zhèngzhōu Long-Distance Bus StationA3
1Sights
Despite a history reaching back to the earliest chapters of Chinese history, the city now has few sights of interest to travellers.
Chénghuáng TempleTAOIST TEMPLE
(城隍庙, Chénghuáng Miào MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Shangcheng Lu, 商城路 h9am-6pm)F
The 600-year-old City God temple bustles with worshippers who leave its trees festooned with red ribbons and its entrances swirling with incense smoke. Take bus 2 from the train station.
Hénán MuseumMUSEUM
(河南博物院, Hénán Bówùyuàn GOOGLE MAP ; http://english.chnmus.net; 8 Nongye Lu, 农业路8号 h9am-5.30pm Tue-Sun, shorter hours rest of year)F
Closed for renovations (estimated to last until 2018), only temporary exhibits in a side building are currently on display. An audio guide (¥20, deposit ¥200) in English is available. Take your passport as ID for admission. The museum is around 2km north of Jinshui Lu; a taxi there will cost about ¥20. (A huge swath of Nongye Lu was also closed for total renovation during research; as a result no buses were running here.)
Shang City WallsRUINS
(商代城墙遗址, Shāngdài Chéngqiáng Yízhǐ GOOGLE MAP )F
Zhèngzhōu's eastern outskirts are marked by long, high mounds of earth, the remains of the old city walls. You can climb up to explore.
4Sleeping
At the time of research, only international chains and a select few domestic hotels were accepting foreigners.
Jǐnjiāng InnMOTEL$$
(锦江之星, Jǐnjiāng Zhīxīng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0371 6693 2000; 77 Erma Lu, 二马路77号 d from ¥200; aW)
This modern chain has crisp, well-looked-after rooms (work desks, flat-screen TVs) in a convenient location near the train station. The cheapest rooms have no windows; staff will likely upgrade you to the mid-level rooms. It is currently the city's only midrange hotel accepting foreigners.
Hilton ZhèngzhōuHOTEL$$$
(希尔顿酒店, Xīěrdùn Jiǔdiàn GOOGLE MAP ; %0371 8996 0888; www3.hilton.com; 288 Jinshui Lu, 金水路288号 d from ¥688; niWs; mMinhang Rd)
The Hilton combines stylish elegance with a highly exacting level of service and a tempting range of five-star amenities and dining choices in a tower on Jinshui Lu. Rooms are contemporary, invitingly spacious and fully equipped. It's close to the city's Central Business District.
SofitelHOTEL$$$
(索菲特国际饭店, Suǒfēitè Guójì Fàndiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0371 6595 0088; www.sofitel.com; 289 Chengdong Lu, 城东路289号 d from ¥600; naiWs; mYanzhuang)
Fresh off a multi-year renovation in 2016, rooms at the five-star Sofitel are excellent. Muted gold and brown tones provide a soothing counterpoint to Zhèngzhōu's chaotic street life, and plusher rooms are equipped with plenty of modern conveniences, including Nespresso machines and swivel TVs. Note that the entrance is off Jinshui Lu.
PRICE RANGES
SLEEPING
Prices given are for a double room.
$ less than ¥200
$$ ¥200–¥500
$$$ more than ¥500
EATING
Prices given are for a meal for one.
$ less than ¥35
$$ ¥35–¥100
$$$ more than ¥100
5Eating
A short walk north of the train station is the busy February 7 Sq (二七广场; Eŕqī Guángchǎng), also called Eŕqī Sq, with nearby shops, restaurants and a night market. Look out for the large white pagoda.
Hé JìHENAN$
(合记 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 3 Renmin Lu, 人民路3号 noodles ¥14-25; h10.30am-10pm; mRenmin Rd)
This Zhèngzhōu stalwart has racked up numerous awards over the years, and judging by the raucous crowds inside, it hasn't lost its touch. There's only one thing on the menu – noodle soup in a nourishing mutton broth (烩面; huìmiàn). Order at the window: basic (普通; pǔtõng) or deluxe (特优; tèyōu), with a bit more meat.
Add coriander and chilli to taste, but eat the pickled garlic on the side.
Hénán ShífǔHENAN$$
(河南食府 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0371 6622 2108; 25 Renmin Lu, 人民路25号 dishes ¥22-98; h10am-2pm & 5-9.30pm; mRenmin Rd)
Tucked away in a courtyard off Renmin Lu, this well-known restaurant’s photo menu is full of local specialities, such as tofu potstickers (锅贴豆腐; guōtiē dòufu) or Hakka beef (客家牛肉粒; Kèjiā niúròu lì), which is cleverly encased in a circular wall of rice. Flip to the end of the menu for some unusual steamed buns and noodle dishes.
Lonely Planet China Page 84