HKTB Island TourBUS
(%852 2368 7111; www.discoverhongkong.com; half-/full-day adult HK$530/740, child HK$400/620)
Includes Man Mo Temple, the Peak, Aberdeen, Repulse Bay and Stanley Market.
Big Foot ToursWALKING
(%852 6075 2727; www.bigfoottour.com)
Small group tours tailored to your interests really get behind the scenes of daily Hong Kong life. Itineraries can focus on food (wanna try snake soup?), architecture, nature or whatever strikes your fancy, and guides are full of interesting facts. Four-hour tours are about HK$700 per person, depending on group size. Private tours start from HK$2200 for two people.
Walk Hong KongWALKING
(%852 9187 8641; www.walkhongkong.com)
Offers a range of hiking tours to some of most beautiful places in Hong Kong, including deserted beaches (HK$800 per person, 8½ hours), Dragon’s Back in Shek O (HK$500 per person, four hours), WWII battlefields (HK$500, half-day), as well as half-day local market tours (HK$450).
Ten Feet TallMASSAGE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2971 1010; www.tenfeettall.com.hk; 20th & 21st fl, L Place, 139 Queen’s Rd, Central; h11am-midnight Mon-Thu, 10.30am-1.30am Fri & Sat, 10.30am-12.30am Sun; mCentral, exit D2)
This sprawling comfort den (745 sq metres) offers a range of treatments from foot reflexology and shoulder massage to hardcore pressure-point massage and aromatic oil treatments. The interiors were created by French restaurant designers.
Hong Kong DolphinwatchWILDLIFE WATCHING
(香港海豚觀察 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2984 1414; www.hkdolphinwatch.com; 15th fl, Middle Block, 1528A Star House, 3 Salisbury Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui; adult/child HK$420/210; hcruises Wed, Fri & Sun)S
Hong Kong Dolphinwatch was founded in 1995 to raise awareness of Hong Kong's wonderful pink dolphins and promote responsible ecotourism. It offers 2½-hour cruises to see them in their natural habitat. About 97% of the cruises result in the sighting of at least one dolphin; if none are spotted, passengers are offered a free trip.
Wan Kei Ho International Martial Arts AssociationMARTIAL ARTS
(尹圻灝國際武術總會 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2544 1368, 852 9506 0075; www.kungfuwan.com; 3rd fl, Yue’s House, 304 Des Voeux Rd Central, Sheung Wan; h10am-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat & Sun; mSheung Wan, exit A)
English-speaking Master Wan teaches northern Shàolín kung fu to a wide following of locals and foreigners. Classes are offered in the evenings from Monday to Thursday. Depending on how many classes you take, the monthly fees may range from HK$350 to HK$1600.
Fringe ClubCOURSE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2521 7251; www.hkfringe.com.hk; 2 Lower Albert Rd, Lan Kwai Fong)
The Fringe Club offers any number of courses and workshops centred on visual arts.
TTours
Mai Po Nature Reserve ToursNATURE TOURS
(米埔自然保護區導賞團 GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2526 1011; www.wwf.org.hk; Mai Po, Sin Tin, Yuen Long; tours HK$120-220; hweekends & public holidays; g76K from Sheung Shui East Rail or Yuen Long West Rail stations)
World Wide Fund for Nature Hong Kong (WWF) runs year-round and seasonal tours of Mai Po Nature Reserve. The three- or four-hour tours are led by bilingual guides when there are English speakers present. Note that different age requirements for child participants apply. Details and booking online.
zFestivals & Events
Hong Kong Arts FestivalART
(香港藝術節 www.hk.artsfestival.org; from HK$150; hFeb-Mar)
A feast of music and performance arts, ranging from classical to contemporary, by hundreds of local and international talents.
Art Basel Hong KongART
(香港巴塞爾藝術展 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.artbasel.com/hong-kong; HK$180-850; hMar)
The Hong Kong edition of the world's premier art fair is a mega event where hundreds of galleries, thousands of artists, as well as art collectors from all over the world flock to Hong Kong for five days of buying, selling, mingling and viewing. Satellite happenings are hosted by galleries all over town but the big shows are at the Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre in Wan Chai.
Hong Kong International Film FestivalFILM
(香港國際電影節 www.hkiff.org.hk; from HK$45; hMar & Apr)
One of Asia's top film festivals, the 40-year-old HKIFF screens the latest art-house and award-winning movies from around the world for two to three weeks straddling the Easter holidays. Those who missed the festival can catch screenings all year round at regular cinemas through the festival's Cine Fan program (http://cinefan.com.hk).
Cheung Chau Bun FestivalFOOD & DRINK
(www.cheungchau.org; Apr or May)
Taking place over four days in late April or early May, Cheung Chau's annual Bun Festival is one of Hong Kong's most unique cultural experiences. Honouring the Taoist god Pak Tai, the festival involves days of parades, music and sweet buns galore. The main event is the scramble up the 'bun tower' – whoever grabs the top bun first wins.
Hong Kong International Dragon Boat RacesSPORTS
(香港國際龍舟邀請賽 www.hkdba.com.hk; hMay or Jun)
For several days round the fifth day of the fifth lunar month, as has been the custom for hundreds of years, dragon-boaters race in waterways all over Hong Kong. It's also around this time that the government-hosted Hong Kong International Dragon Boat Races take place at Victoria Harbour. The event features thousands of the world's top dragon-boaters over three exciting days of racing and partying.
Clockenflap Outdoor Music FestivalMUSIC
(香港音樂及藝術節 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.clockenflap.com; tickets HK$600-1800; hNov or Dec)
Hong Kong's largest outdoor music festival incorporates international, regional and local live music of a mostly indie variety, as well as art installations and pop-ups. Acts that have played the festival include New Order, The Libertines, A$AP and Primal Scream.
4Sleeping
Hong Kong offers a full range of accommodation, from closet-sized rooms to palatial suites. Most hotels on Hong Kong Island are between Central and Causeway Bay; in Kowloon, they fall around Nathan Rd, where you’ll also find budget places. During low seasons prices fall sharply, particularly the midrange and top-end options, when booking online can get you discounts of up to 60%.
Central District
The lion’s share of Hong Kong Island’s luxury hotels is in Central, catering predominantly to moneyed leisure travellers and busy, corporate types. The service and facilities you’ll find here are the best in town. Whether it’s child-minding service, dinner reservations or combating jetlag you need, it will be done with efficiency, and possibly a smile.
oHelena MayHOTEL$
(梅夫人婦女會主樓 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2522 6766; www.helenamay.com; 35 Garden Rd, Central; s/d HK$580/760, studio per month HK$16,300-21,240; g23)
If you like the peninsula’s colonial setting but not its price tag, this grand dame could be your cup of tea. Founded in 1916 as a social club for single European women, it is now a private club for women of all nationalities and a hotel with 43 creaky but charming rooms. Rooms are women-only; studios are open to men.
Rooms are in the main building and have shared bathrooms, while the rent-by-the-month studios are in an adjacent building. You must be 18 or above to stay at the Helena May. The building is a stone’s throw from the Peak Tram Terminus and the Zoological & Botanical Gardens.
All guests must pay a HK$180 membership fee, plus a HK$120 monthly subscription.
oMandarin OrientalLUXURY HOTEL$$$
(文華東方酒店 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2522 0111; www.mandarinoriental.com/hongkong; 5 Connaught Rd, Central; r HK$3655-7400, ste HK$6120-65,000; iWs; mCentral, exit J3)
The venerable Mandarin has historically set the standard in Asia and continues to be a contender for the top spot, despite competition from the likes of the Four Seasons. The styling, service, food and atmosphere are stellar throughout and there’s a sense of gracious, old-world charm. The sleek Landmark Or
iental ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2132 0088; www.mandarinoriental.com/landmark; 15 Queen’s Rd, Central; r HK$5470-9000, ste HK$9300-45,000; iWs; mCentral, exit D1), just across the way, offers modern luxury, but with a business vibe.
Four SeasonsLUXURY HOTEL$$$
(四季酒店 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 3196 8888; www.fourseasons.com/hongkong; 8 Finance St, Central; r HK$4800-8100, ste HK$9800-65,000; iWs; mHong Kong, exit F)
The Four Seasons arguably edges into top place on the island for its amazing views, pristine service, and its location close to the Star Ferry Pier, Hong Kong station and Sheung Wan. Also on offer are palatial rooms, a glorious pool and spa complex, and award-winning restaurants Caprice ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 3196 8888; www.fourseasons.com/hongkong; Four Seasons Hotel, 8 Finance St, Central; set lunch/dinner from HK$540/1740; hnoon-2.30pm & 6-10.30pm; W; mHong Kong, exit E1) and Lung King Heen.
The Peak & Northwest Hong Kong Island
Some of the city's better midrange hotels can be found in the Sheung Wan area, which is close enough to the action, but too far for the well-heeled business crowds.
oBishop Lei International HouseHOTEL$
(宏基國際賓館 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2868 0828; www.bishopleihtl.com.hk; 4 Robinson Rd, Mid-Levels; s/d/ste from $550/700/1250; is; g23 or 40)
This hotel in residential Mid-Levels, though out of the way, provides a lot of bang for your buck. It boasts good service, a swimming pool, a gym and proximity to the Zoological & Botanical Gardens. The standard single and double rooms are small. It’s worth paying a little more for the larger, harbour-facing rooms, which offer good views of the skyline and the cathedral from high up. Buses to Central and Wan Chai stop in front of the hotel.
Jockey Club Mt Davis Youth HostelHOSTEL$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2817 5715; www.yha.org.hk; 123 Mount Davis Path, Pok Fu Lam; dm high season/low season HK$250/180, r from HK$500; W)
If you're not afraid of ghosts (Mt Davis, an isolated Pok Fu Lam peak, is said to be haunted) then this newly refurbished hostel may be for you. Though it's not walking distance from anything, it makes up for it with a free shuttle bus and killer views of Victoria Harbour. Must be a Hong Kong Youth Hostels Association (香港青年旅舍協會; HKYHA GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2788 1638; www.yha.org.hk; Shop 118, 1st fl, Fu Cheong Shopping Centre,Shum Mong Rd, Sham Shui Po; HI card under/over 18yr $70/150; h9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat; mNam Cheong, exit A) member, or arrive with one.
oPottingerBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2308 3188; www.thepottinger.com; 74 Queen's Rd Central, enter from Stanley St, Central; r from HK$2700, ste from HK$4200; mCentral D2)
Smack in the heart of Central, this unobtrusive new boutique hotel has 86 airy, white-and-cream rooms with subtle Asian touches – carved wooden screens, calligraphy work, black-and-white photos of old Hong Kong. The Envoy, the Pottinger's excellent hotel bar, has a colonial theme, with dark panelling and afternoon high tea, a tribute to Sir Henry Pottinger, Hong Kong's first governor and the hotel's namesake.
Wan Chai & Northeast Hong Kong Island
Admiralty, with easy access to Hong Kong Park, the Pacific Place mall and the Asia Society Hong Kong Centre, has a handful of high-end hotels. Wan Chai, favoured by trade-fair regulars and mainland tourists, has midrange lodging, with a sprinkling of cheaper options in old residential buildings and some luxury addresses near the harbour. In addition to good-value midrange options, Causeway Bay is served by some inexpensive hostels. During the low season, guesthouses often struggle to fill beds and rooms; most will offer discounts to anyone staying longer than a few nights.
Check InnHOSTEL$
(卓軒旅舍 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2955 0175; www.checkinnhk.com; Room A, 3rd fl, Kwong Wah Mansion, 269-273 Hennessy Rd, Wan Chai; dm HK$160-200, r HK$450-600; W; mWan Chai, exit A2)
Twelve basic dorms (female and mixed) and four simple en suite rooms in an old, centrally located building. The reception and hang-out area (2nd floor) is cosy and spacious, featuring books and coffee next to a wall of windows. The knowledgeable staff hosts two or three free tours a week for guests, who just need to pay for food and transport.
oTuveBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 3995 8800; www.tuve.hk; 16 Tsing Fung St, Tin Hau; from HK$980; iW; mTin Hau, exit A1)
From the dungeon-like entrance to the noir-ish reception area with black iron grille and the brass-and-concrete slab that is the front desk, everything here spells design. Industrial glam continues in the rooms where concrete walls are discreetly highlighted with gold foil, and grey-and-white marble plays off against oak and wired glass, and all are grounded by immaculate white linen and excellent service.
oUpper HouseBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2918 1838; www.upperhouse.com; 88 Queensway, Pacific Pl, Admiralty; r/ste from HK$5000/17,000; iW; mAdmiralty, exit F)
Every corner here spells Zen-like serenity: the understated lobby, the sleek ecominded rooms, the elegant sculptures, the warm and discreet service, and the manicured lawn where guests can join free yoga classes. Other pluses include a free and ‘bottomless’ minibar, a 24-hour gym, and easy access to Admiralty MTR station. The cafe is famous for its afternoon tea.
oHotel IndigoBUSINESS HOTEL$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 3926 3888; www.ihg.com; 246 Queen's Rd E, Wan Chai; dm HK$2000-3800, ste HK$4500-6000; iWs; mWan Chai, exit A3)
Excitingly located near markets and hipster hang-outs, Indigo has slightly over-the-top modern Chinese decor and 138 large-ish, tech-forward, and very comfortable rooms. A dragon-shaped heat-absorbing grid covers its exterior, giving texture to sceneries framed by the rooms' floor-to-ceiling windows. The rooftop pool has views of the hills and, dizzyingly – the courteous staff will remind you – the street below.
Choose an upper-floor 'deluxe' room for the best views and more natural light. Indigo also has a small 24-hour gym, a meeting room seating eight, a quaint cafe that makes attractive use of the eponymous colour, and Skybar ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 3926 3888; www.ihg.com; 29th fl, Hotel Indigo, 246 Queen's Rd E, Wan Chai; h4pm-1am, happy hour 5-8pm; mWan Chai, exit A3), which has killer views.
Kowloon
Splendour rubs shoulders with squalor in Kowloon. There is a huge range of hotels and guesthouses, catering to all budgets, between the two extremes. Tsim Sha Tsui has a number of top-end hotels, some glamorous, some anonymous. Things start getting cheaper as you go north. Yau Ma Tei has several midrange options, plus cheap, basic hotels and a good assortment of guesthouses.
oUrban PackHOSTEL$
(休閒小窩 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2732 2271; www.urban-pack.com; Unit 1410, 14th fl, Haiphong Mansion, 99-101 Nathan Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui; dm HK$200-500, r from HK$500, apt from HK$700; W; mTsim Sha Tsui, exit A1)
If your idea of a great hostel involves a chilled vibe, lots of interaction with fellow travellers, and bar-hopping with the owners, Urban Pack is the place for you. Run by two friendly Canadian-Chinese, Albert and Jensen, Urban Pack also offers solid dorms (mixed and women's), as well as new private rooms and suites.
oMariner’s ClubHOTEL$
(海員之家 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2368 8261; www.themarinersclubhk.org; 11 Middle Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui; s/d without bathroom from HK$370/520, with bathroom from HK$550/750, ste from HK$1140; iWs; mEast Tsim Sha Tsui, exit K)
The Mariner's Club, overlooking the Middle Road Children's Playground, offers a lazy, old-world charm, as well as a first-rate swimming pool. The hotel has 100 rooms – 30 new (with wi-fi, on the 4th and 5th floors), and 70 old (austere-looking with retro furniture). Anyone can book this great budget option but there may be discounts if you can show a mariner’s ID or proof of shipping-company employment at check-in.
oSalisburyHOTEL$
(香港基督教青年會 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2268 7888; www.ymcahk.org.hk; 41 Salisbury Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui; dm HK$360, s/d/ste from HK$1200/1360/2200; niWs; mTsim Sha Tsui, exit E)
If you can manage to book a room at this fabulously located YMCA hotel, you’l
l be rewarded with professional service and excellent exercise facilities. Newly renovated rooms and suites are comfortable but simple, so keep your eyes on the harbour: that view would cost you five times as much at the Peninsula next door. The dormitory rooms are a bonus, but restrictions apply.
The four-bed dorm rooms are meant for short-stay travellers, hence no one can stay there more than 10 nights in a 30-day period, and walk-in guests aren’t accepted if they’ve been in Hong Kong for more than seven days; check-in is at 2pm. The same restrictions do not apply to the other rooms at the Salisbury. Sports enthusiasts will love it here – the hotel has a 25m swimming pool, a fitness centre and a climbing wall.
Empire KowloonHOTEL$$
(尖沙咀皇悅酒店 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 3692 2222; www.empirehotel.com.hk; 62 Kimberley Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui; r/ste from HK$1045/2000; iWs; mTsim Sha Tsui, exit B2)
This hotel offers decent rooms and an excellent indoor atrium swimming pool and spa. It’s in the old residential quarter of Tsim Sha Tsui. Weekday rates can be 30% lower or more. Guests get use of a free mobile phone with data for use around the city.
oPeninsula Hong KongHOTEL$$$
(香港半島酒店 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2920 2888; www.peninsula.com; Salisbury Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui; r/ste from HK$4000/6000; iWs; mTsim Sha Tsui, exit E)
Lonely Planet China Page 103