Whether it’s comfort food or a carb fix you’re craving, the juicy Shànghǎi dumplings and hearty northern-style noodles at this beloved Taiwanese chain will do the trick. Queues are the norm and there are no reservations, but service is excellent. Must-eats include the famous xiǎolóngbāo (soup dumplings), fluffy steamed pork buns and the greasy-but-oh-so-good fried pork chop.
Gaddi’sFRENCH$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2696 6763; www.peninsula.com; 1st fl, The Peninsula, 19-21 Salisbury Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui; set lunch/dinner HK$500/2000; hnoon-2.30pm & 7-10.30pm; mTsim Sha Tsui, exit E)
Gaddi’s, which opened just after WWII, was the kind of place where wealthy families went to celebrate special occasions. Today the classical decor may be a tad stuffy and the live Filipino band gratuitous, but the food – traditional French with contemporary touches – is without a doubt still some of the best in town.
New Territories
The New Territories whips up Hong Kong's best Hakka and walled village cuisines (Yuen Long, Fan Ling) and makes a solid bowl of noodles (Tai Po, Yuen Long, Fan Ling). Waterfront areas in Sai Kung, Tuen Mun (Sam Shing Hui) and Po Toi O fishing village feature exciting seafood places. Village teahouses can be found in Tai Mo Shan and world-famous roast goose in Tsuen Wan and Tai Po.
oYat Lok Barbecue RestaurantCANTONESE$
(一樂燒臘飯店 GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2656 4732; 5 Tai Ming Lane; meals HK$50-180; h11am-11pm; mTai Po Market, exit A2)
Glossy roast goose with shatteringly crisp skin and a pillow of succulent fat is the order of the day at this one-Michelin-star, family-run eatery, which counts celebrity chef Anthony Bourdain among its many fans. Char siu (roast pork) is a bit dry, so focus on the bird. Chinese menu only, but friendly servers will help you order.
oLoaf OnCANTONESE, SEAFOOD$$
(六福菜館 GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2792 9966; 49 See Cheung St, Sai Kung; dishes from HK$100; h11am-11pm; g1)
The motto here is: eat what they hunt. This three-storey Michelin-star restaurant is where fish freshly caught from Sai Kung waters in the morning lands on customers’ plates by midday. The signature fish soup and steamed fish sell out fast. There is no English signage, but it’s identifiable by a lone dining table set outside and the shiny brass sign. Reservations recommended.
oSha Tin 18CANTONESE, CHINESE$$
(沙田18 GOOGLE MAP ; %852 3723 7932; www.hongkong.shatin.hyatt.com; 18 Chak Cheung St, Hyatt Regency Hong Kong; meals HK$300-700; h11.30am-3pm & 5.30-10.30pm; mUniversity)
The Peking duck (whole HK$785, half HK$500) here has put this hotel restaurant, adjacent to the Chinese University, in the gastronomic spotlight. Book your prized fowl 24 hours in advance, and tantalise your taste buds in three ways – pancakes with the crispy skin, meat and leeks, duck soup and wok-fried minced duck. The Asian fusion desserts here are also famous.
oYue Kee Roasted Goose RestaurantCANTONESE$$
(裕記大飯店 GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2491 0105; www.yuekee.com.hk/en; 9 Sham Hong Rd, Sham Tseng; meals HK$150-500; h11am-11pm; gminibus 302 from Tai Wo Hau MTR)
In an alley lined with roast-goose restaurants, 54-year-old Yue Kee is king. Order gorgeous plates of coppery-skinned charcoal-roasted goose (half is plenty for four people) and sample house specialities including soy-braised goose web (feet), wine-infused goose liver, and stir-fried goose intestines. If that's not your speed, there are plenty of standard Cantonese dishes on offer. Book ahead.
Outlying Islands
Eating on the Outlying Islands is all about seafood. Many local villages have rows of eateries dedicated to frying, poaching and sautéing everything that swims or wriggles in the ocean. Lamma's large foreign population ensures there's lots of funky international eateries as well.
oMavericksBURGERS, INTERNATIONAL$
( GOOGLE MAP ; %852 5402 4154; Pui O beach; meals from HK$100; h5.30-11.30pm Fri, 11.30am-11.30pm Sat & Sun; g1 from Mui Wo)S
Sunburned beach-goers gather for house-made sausages and burgers on artisan buns at this hip surf-themed weekend spot, right on the water in Pui O. Many of the veggies are grown on the restaurant's own farm, the meat and dairy used are hormone-free, and menus are printed on recycled bamboo paper. Wash your meal down with a locally brewed Young Master Ale.
oRainbow Seafood RestaurantCHINESE, SEAFOOD$$
(天虹海鮮酒家 GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2982 8100; www.rainbowrest.com.hk; Shops 1A-1B, ground fl, 23-25 First St, Sok Kwu Wan; meals from HK$180; h10am-10.30pm; fSok Kwu Wan)
Gigantic Rainbow may boast 800 seats but you still need to book ahead for prime hours. Steamed grouper, lobster and abalone are the specialities at this waterfront restaurant. You have the option of being transported by its own ferries from Central pier 9 or Tsim Sha Tsui Public Pier; call or check its website for sailings.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Energetic Hong Kong knows how to party and does so visibly and noisily. Drinking venues run the gamut from British-style pubs through hotel bars and hipster hang-outs, to karaoke bolt-holes aimed at a young Chinese clientele. The last few years have seen a heartening surge in the number of wine bars and live-music venues, catering to a diverse, discerning and fun-loving population.
Central District
MO BarBAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2132 0077; 15 Queen’s Rd Central, Landmark, Central; h7am-1.30am; W; mCentral, exit D1)
If you want to imbibe in the quiet or catch up with a chat, the swish MO Bar, attached to the Mandarin's swanky outpost at the Landmark, offers peace, soft lighting and a first-rate drinks list of wines and cocktails.
SevvaCOCKTAIL BAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2537 1388; www.sevva.hk; 25th fl, Prince’s Bldg, 10 Chater Rd, Central; hnoon-midnight Mon-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat; W; mCentral, exit H)
If there was a million-dollar view in Hong Kong, it’d be the one from the balcony of ultra-stylish Sevva – skyscrapers so close you can see their arteries of steel, with the harbour and Kowloon in the distance. At night it takes your breath away. To get there, though, you have to overcome expensive drinks and patchy service.
Book ahead if you want a table on the balcony, but even if you don’t, you can go out to take pictures.
Red BarBAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 8129 8882; www.pure-red.com; Level 4, 8 Finance St, Two IFC, Central; hnoon-midnight Mon-Wed, to 1am Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat, to 10pm Sun, happy hour 6-9pm; W; mHong Kong, exit E1)
Red Bar’s combination of alfresco drinking and harbour views is hard to beat. Expect to meet lots of smartly dressed finance types from the corporate offices nearby. DJs playing funk and jazz turn up the volume as the weekend approaches.
Hint: if you're on a budget, grab some beers at a 7-Eleven and take one of the rooftop tables adjacent to Red; it's public space.
The Peak & Northwest Hong Kong Island
oQuinaryCOCKTAIL BAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2851 3223; www.quinary.hk; 56-58 Hollywood Rd, Soho; h5pm-2am Mon-Sat; mCentral, exit D2)
A sleek, moodily lit cocktail bar, Quinary attracts a well-dressed crowd to sip Asian-inspired cocktail creations such as the Quinary Sour (whisky, licorice root, Chinese black sugar), the Oolong Tea Collins (vodka, oolong tea cordial) or the Checkers (vodka, black sesame syrup, vanilla ice cream). Prices are high, making this a good place to start the evening before moving on to cheaper and less elegant environs.
oClub 71BAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Basement, 67 Hollywood Rd, Soho; h3pm-2am Mon-Sat, 6pm-1am Sun, happy hour 3-9pm; g26, mCentral, exit D1)
This friendly bar with a bohemian vibe is named after a protest march on 1 July 2003. It's a favourite haunt of local artists and activists who come for the beer and jamming sessions. In the garden out the front, revolutionaries plotted to overthrow the Qing dynasty a hundred years ago. Enter from the alley next to 69 Hollywood.
oPing Pong GintoneriaBAR
( GOOGLE MAP ; %852 9835 5061; www.pingpong129.com; 135 Second St, Sai Ying Pun; h6-11.30pm; mSai Ying Pun, exit B2)
An unmark
ed red door leads you downstairs into a cavernous former ping-pong hall, now one of Hong Kong's coolest bars. The drink here is gin – the bar stocks more than 50 types from across the globe, served in a variety of cocktails both classic and creative. Crowds here are artsy, and the decor is even artsier – look out for original work by infamous Hong Kong graffiti artist the King of Kowloon.
Wan Chai & Northeast Hong Kong Island
oMyHouseWINE BAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2323 1715; www.myhousehk.com; 26th fl, QRE Plaza, 202 Queen's Rd E, Wan Chai; h6pm-2am Tue & Wed, to 3am Thu-Sat, closed Sun; mWan Chai, exit A3)S
MyHouse brings together vinyls and natural wine in a spacious Euro-chic setting. Furniture is made from natural wood, illuminated wine bottles hang alongside cured meats, and guests can take their pick from a vinyl library, slip it on individual turntables, and kick back with an organic, chemical-free Beaujolais, or surrender to the whims of a resident DJ (analogue, of course).
oTai Lung FungBAR
(大龍鳳 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2572 0055; 5-9 Hing Wan St, Wan Chai; hnoon-1am Mon-Thu, to 1.30am Fri & Sat, happy hour noon-9pm; mWan Chai, exit A3)
This capriciously retro bar takes its name from a 1960s Cantonese opera troupe. In common parlance, Tai Lung Fung (Big Dragon Phoenix) means 'much ado'. Appropriately, the decor is fabulously over-the-top. Tai Lung Fung attracts artsy types who prefer its funky aesthetics and quiet environment to a more conventional partying vibe. Cocktails, less adventurous than the decor, are the speciality.
Kowloon
oKubrick Bookshop CaféCAFE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2384 8929; www.kubrick.com.hk; Shop H2, Prosperous Garden, 3 Public Square St, Yau Ma Tei; h11.30am-9.30pm; mYau Ma Tei, exit C)
The airy bookshop-cafe attached to the Broadway Cinematheque (百老匯電影中心 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2388 3188; Ground fl, Prosperous Gardens, 3 Public Square St, Yau Ma Tei; mYau Ma Tei, exit C) serves decent coffee and simple eats, attracting an eclectic, arty crowd. While waiting for your cuppa, you can browse the shop's strong collection of art, film and cultural studies titles.
oInterContinental Lobby LoungeBAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2721 1211; www.hongkong-ic.intercontinental.com; Hotel InterContinental Hong Kong, 18 Salisbury Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui; h7am-12.30am; W; mEast Tsim Sha Tsui, exit J)
Soaring plate glass and an unbeatable waterfront location make this one of the best spots to soak up the Hong Kong Island skyline and take in the busy harbour, although you pay for the privilege. It’s also an ideal venue from which to watch the evening light show at 8pm.
oAquaBAR
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 3427 2288; www.aqua.com.hk; 29 & 30th fl, 1 Peking Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui; h4pm-2am, happy hour 4-6pm; W; mTsim Sha Tsui, exit L5)
When night falls, you'll know why this uberfashionable bar has dim illumination and black furniture – the two-storey, floor-to-ceiling windows command sweeping views of the Hong Kong Island skyline that come to life after sundown. The tables by the windows are awesome for bringing a date. On the weekends, a DJ spins hip hop and lounge jazz.
OzoneBAR
( GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2263 2263; www.ritzcarlton.com; 118th fl, ICC, 1 Austin Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui; h5pm-1am Mon-Wed, to 2am Thu, to 3am Fri, 3pm-3am Sat, noon-midnight Sun; W; mKowloon, exit U3)
Ozone is the highest bar in Asia. The imaginative interiors, created to evoke a cyber-esque Garden of Eden, have pillars resembling chocolate fountains in a hurricane and a myriad of refracted glass and colour-changing illumination. Equally dizzying is the wine list, with the most expensive bottle selling for over HK$150,000. Offers potential for a once-in-a-lifetime experience, in more ways than one.
Oh, that temptingly empty corner table? That's HK$10k just to sit there.
Outlying Islands
On Lamma, Island Bar ( GOOGLE MAP ; h5pm-late Mon-Fri, noon-late Sat & Sun, happy hour 5-8pm; fYung Shue Wan) is the closest bar to Yung Shue Wan's ferry pier. It's a favourite with older expats and hosts the best jam sessions on the island.
3Entertainment
Hong Kong’s arts and entertainment scene is healthier than ever. The increasingly busy cultural calendar includes music, drama and dance hailing from a plethora of traditions. The schedule of imported performances is nothing short of stellar. And every week, local arts companies and artists perform anything from Bach to stand-up to Cantonese opera and English versions of Chekhov plays.
Hong Kong TicketingBOOKING SERVICE
(%852 3128 8288; www.hkticketing.com; h10am-8pm)
You can book tickets to plays, concerts and other cultural events here.
UrbtixBOOKING SERVICE
(%852 2734 9009; www.urbtix.hk; h10am-8pm)
Books tickets to shows at venues operated by the government's Leisure and Cultural Services Department.
Grappa’s CellarLIVE MUSIC
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2521 2322; http://elgrande.com.hk/restaurant/grappas-cellar/; 1 Connaught Pl, Central; h9pm-late; mHong Kong, exit B2)
For at least two weekends a month, this subterranean Italian restaurant morphs into a jazz or rock music venue – chequered tablecloths and all. Call or visit the website for event and ticketing details.
oPeel FrescoJAZZ
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2540 2046; www.peelfresco.com; 49 Peel St, Soho; h5pm-late Mon-Sat; g13, 26, 40M)
Charming Peel Fresco has live jazz six nights a week, with local and overseas acts performing on a small but spectacular stage next to teetering faux-Renaissance paintings. The action starts around 9.30pm, but get there at 9pm to secure a seat.
Fringe ClubLIVE MUSIC, THEATRE
(藝穗會 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %theatre bookings 852 2521 9126, 852 2521 7251; www.hkfringe.com.hk; 2 Lower Albert Rd, Lan Kwai Fong; hnoon-midnight Mon-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat; mCentral, exits D1, D2 & G)
The Fringe, housed in a Victorian building (c 1892) that was part of a dairy farm, offers original music in the Dairy several nights a week, with jazz, rock and world music getting the most airplay. The intimate theatres host eclectic local and international performances. The Fringe sits on the border of Lan Kwai Fong.
Focal FairLIVE MUSIC
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/focalfair; 28th fl, Park Avenue Tower, 5 Moreton Tce, Causeway Bay; mTin Hau, exit A1)
Finally, a conveniently located indie music venue – Focal Fair is right by the Hong Kong Central Library! It hosts several gigs a month, and everyone from Canadian hardcore punks Career Suicide to local noise artists Dennis Wong and Eric Chan have played here. See the Facebook page for the latest.
Hong Kong Arts CentreDANCE, THEATRE
(香港藝術中心 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2582 0200; www.hkac.org.hk; 2 Harbour Rd, Wan Chai; mWan Chai, exit C)
A popular venue for dance, theatre and music performances, the Arts Centre has theatres, a cinema and a gallery.
oCanton Singing HouseLIVE MUSIC
(艷陽天 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 49-51 Temple St, Yau Ma Tei; HK$20; h3-7pm & 8pm-5am; mYau Ma Tei, exit C)
The oldest and most atmospheric of the singalong parlours, Canton resembles a film set with its mirror balls and glowing shrines. Each session features 20 singers, all with fan following. Patrons tip a minimum of HK$20 (per patron) if they like a song.
Even if you don't, it's nice to tip every now and then for the experience – just slip your money into a box on stage. For HK$100, you can sing a song.
oHidden AgendaLIVE MUSIC
( GOOGLE MAP ; %852 9170 6073; www.hiddenagenda.hk; 2A, Wing Fu Industrial Bldg, 15-17 Tai Yip St, Kwun Tong; mNgau Tau Kok, exit B6)
Hong Kong's best-known music dive has the setting (former warehouse), line-up (solid indie acts) and elusiveness (it's out of the way) all other dives wish they had. Located in the gritty industrial hub of Kwun Tong (about a five-block walk from the MTR), Hidden Agenda is synonymous with underground music. The entrance has a small metal gate that’s open after-hours.
Hong Kong Cultural CentreTHEATRE, MUSIC
(香港文化中心 MAP G
OOGLE MAP ; www.lcsd.gov.hk; 10 Salisbury Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui; h9am-11pm; W; mEast Tsim Sha Tsui, exit L6)
Hong Kong’s premier arts performance venue, this world-class cultural centre contains a 2085-seat concert hall with an impressive Rieger pipe organ, plus two theatres and rehearsal studios.
7Shopping
Everyone knows Hong Kong as a place of neon-lit retail pilgrimage. This city is positively stuffed with swanky shopping malls and brand-name boutiques. All international brands worth their logo have outlets here. These are supplemented by the city’s own retail trailblazers and a few creative local designers. Together they are Hong Kong’s shrines and temples to style and consumption.
Central District
oShanghai TangCLOTHING, HOMEWARE
(上海灘 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2525 7333; www.shanghaitang.com; 1 Duddell St, Shanghai Tang Mansion, Central; h10.30am-8pm; mCentral, exit D1)
This elegant four-level store is the place to go if you fancy a body-hugging qípáo (cheongsam) with a modern twist, a Chinese-style clutch or a lime-green mandarin jacket. Custom tailoring is available; it takes two weeks to a month and requires a fitting. Shanghai Tang also stocks cushions, picture frames, teapots, even mah-jong tile sets, designed in a modern chinoiserie style.
Lonely Planet China Page 105