Lonely Planet China
Page 106
oArmouryCLOTHING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2804 6991; www.thearmoury.com; 307 Pedder Bldg, 12 Pedder St, Central; h11am-8pm Mon-Sat; mCentral, exit D1)
The Armoury can help any man look like a dapper gentleman, whatever his build – the elegant shop is a specialist in refined menswear sourced from around the world. You can choose from British-, Italian- and Asian-tailored suits, and a high-quality selection of shoes and ties to match. Still not good enough? Ask about their bespoke suits and custom footwear.
oPicture ThisGIFTS & SOUVENIRS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2525 2803; www.picturethiscollection.com; 13th fl, 9 Queen's Rd, Central; h10am-7pm Mon-Sat, noon-5pm Sun; mCentral, exit H)
The vintage posters, photographs, prints and antique maps of Hong Kong and Asia on sale here will appeal to collectors or anyone seeking an unusual gift. There’s also an assortment of antiquarian books related to Hong Kong. Prices are not cheap but they guarantee all maps and prints to be originals.
oBlanc de ChineFASHION & ACCESSORIES
(源 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2104 7934; www.blancdechine.com; Shop 123, Prince’s Bldg, 10 Chater Rd, Central; h10.30am-7.30pm Mon-Sat, noon-6pm Sun; mCentral, exit H)
This sumptuous store specialises in Chinese men’s jackets and silk dresses for women, both off-the-rack and made-to-measure. A gorgeous sequinned gown takes about four weeks to make, including one fitting. If you’re not in Hong Kong after a month, the shop will ship it to you.
The satin bed linens are also exquisite (as are the old ship’s cabinets in which they are displayed).
IFC MallMALL
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2295 3308; www.ifc.com.hk; 8 Finance St, Central; mHong Kong, exit F)
Hong Kong’s most luxurious shopping mall boasts 200 high-fashion boutiques linking the One and Two IFC towers and the Four Seasons Hotel. Outlets include Prada, Gucci, Céline, Jimmy Choo, Vivienne Tam, Zegna…we could go on. The Hong Kong Airport Express Station is downstairs.
The Peak & Northwest Hong Kong Island
oPMQHANDICRAFTS, JEWELLERY
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2870 2335; www.pmq.org.hk; 35 Aberdeen St, Central; hmost shops 11am-7pm)
The modernist building that was once the police married quarters is now one of the best places in Hong Kong to shop for pieces by local designers, jewellery makers and artisans, with dozens of shops and boutiques occupying the old apartments. Top picks include the hip streetwear of Kapok, Hong Kong–themed gifts at HKTDC Design Gallery, industrially inspired jewellery at The Little Finger, and bamboo kitchenware at Bamboa Home.
oChan Shing KeeANTIQUES
(陳勝記 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2543 1245; www.chanshingkee.com; 228-230 Queen's Rd Central, Sheung Wan; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat; g101, 104)
This shop with a three-storey showroom is run by Daniel Chan, the third generation of a family that’s been in the business for 70 years. Chan Shing Kee is known to collectors and museums worldwide for its fine classical Chinese furniture (16th to 18th century). Scholars' objects, such as ancient screens and wooden boxes, are also available.
oGallery of the Pottery WorkshopART, HOMEWARES
(樂天陶社 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 9842 5889, 852 2525 7949; www.potteryworkshop.com.cn; 3rd fl, Hollywood House, 27-29 Hollywood Rd, Soho; h1-6pm Tue-Sun; g26)
This gallery showcases playful ceramic objects made by local ceramic artists and artisans from the mainland and overseas. The lovely pieces range from crockery to sculptures.
oGrotto Fine ArtART
(嘉圖 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2121 2270; www.grottofineart.com; 2nd fl, 31C-D Wyndham St, Lan Kwai Fong; h11am-7pm Mon-Sat; mCentral, exit D2)
This exquisite gallery, founded by a scholar in Hong Kong art, is one of very few that represents predominantly local artists. The small but excellent selection of works shown ranges from painting and sculpture to ceramics and mixed media. Prices are reasonable too.
2Walking Tour
Hong Kong’s Wholesale District
Start Sutherland St stop, Kennedy Town tram
End Sheung Wan MTR station, exit B
Length 1.9km; one hour
Set off from the Sutherland St stop of the Kennedy Town tram. Have a look at (and a sniff of) Des Voeux Rd West’s many 1dried seafood shops piled with all manner of desiccated sea life. Walk south on Sutherland St to Ko Shing St to browse the medieval-sounding goods on offer from the 2herbal-medicine traders.
At the end of Ko Shing St, re-enter Des Voeux Rd West and head northeast. Continue along Connaught Rd West, where you’ll find the attractive colonial building that houses the 3Western Market.
At the corner of Morrison St, walk south past Wing Lok St and Bonham Strand, which are both lined with 4shops selling ginseng root and edible birds’ nests. Then turn right onto Queen’s Rd Central to the 5incense shops selling paper funeral offerings for the dead.
Retrace your steps, and if you're hungry, progress to Queen’s Rd West for a quick Chiu Chow meal at 6Chan Kan Kee. Climb up Possession St, then take a left into Hollywood Rd, before turning right to ascend Pound Lane to where it meets Tai Ping Shan St. Here you’ll see four charming 7temples.
Head southeast down Tai Ping Shan St, then left to descend Upper Station St to the start of Hollywood Rd’s 8antique shops. There’s a vast choice of curios and rare, mostly Chinese, treasures.
Continuing east on Hollywood Rd brings you to 9Man Mo Temple, one of the oldest and most significant temples in the territory.
Take a short hop to the left down Ladder St to Upper Lascar Row, home of the aCat Street Market, which is well stocked with inexpensive Chinese memorabilia. Ladder St brings you back to Queen’s Rd Central. Cross the road and follow Hillier St to Bonham Strand. Sheung Wan MTR station is due north.
Aberdeen & South Hong Kong Island
oG.O.D.CLOTHING, HOUSEWARES
(Goods of Desire; GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2673 0071; www.god.com.hk; Shop 105, Stanley Plaza, 22-23 Carmel Rd, Stanley; h10.30am-8pm Mon-Fri, to 9pm Sat; g6, 6A, 6X, 260)
One of the coolest born-in-Hong Kong shops around, G.O.D. does irreverent takes on classic Hong Kong iconography. Think cell phone covers printed with pictures of Hong Kong housing blocks, light fixtures resembling the ones in old-fashioned wet markets, and pillows covered in lucky koi print. There are a handful of G.O.D. shops in town, but this is one of the biggest.
Wan Chai & Northeast Hong Kong Island
oEsliteBOOKS
(誠品 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 3419 6789; 8th-10th fl, Hysan Place, 500 Hennessy Rd, Causeway Bay; h10am-10pm Sun-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat; c; mCauseway Bay, exit F2)
You could spend an entire evening inside this swanky three-floor Taiwanese bookstore, which features a massive collection of English and Chinese books and magazines, a shop selling gorgeous stationery and leather-bound journals, a cafe, a bubble-tea counter, and a huge kids' toy and book section.
oWan Chai Computer CentreELECTRONICS
(灣仔電腦城 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 1st fl, Southorn Centre, 130-138 Hennessy Rd, Wan Chai; h10am-9pm Mon-Sat, noon-8pm Sun; mWan Chai, exit B2)
This gleaming, beeping warren of tiny shops is a safe bet for anything digital and electronic.
JoyceFASHION & ACCESSORIES
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2523 5944; www.joyce.com; Shop 232, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty; h10.30am-8pm Sun-Thu, to 8.30pm Fri & Sat; mAdmiralty, exit F)
This Pacific Place outlet of one of Hong Kong's most famous luxury fashion retailers features a shrewdly curated collection of international brands that strikes a balance between the popular and the edgy.
Kowloon
oShanghai StreetMARKET
(上海街 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Yau Ma Tei; mYau Ma Tei, exit C)
Wander Kowloon's kitchen district for food-related souvenirs such as wooden mooncake moulds, chopsticks, woks and ceramic teapots.
oYue Hwa Chinese Products EmporiumDEPARTMENT STORE
(裕華國貨 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 3511 2222; www.yuehwa.com; 301-309 Nathan Rd, Jordan; h10am-10pm; mJordan,
exit A)
This five-storey behemoth is one of the few old-school Chinese department stores left in the city. Gets here include silk scarves, traditional Chinese baby clothes and embroidered slippers, jewellery both cheap and expensive, pretty patterned chopsticks and ceramics, plastic acupuncture models and calligraphy equipment (to name a few). The top floor is all about tea, with various vendors offering free sips. Food is in the basement.
oLadies' MarketMARKET
(通菜街, 女人街; Tung Choi Street Market GOOGLE MAP ; Tung Choi St; hnoon-11.30pm; mMong Kok, exit D3)
The Tung Choi Street market is a cheek-by-jowl affair offering cheap clothes and trinkets. Vendors start setting up their stalls as early as noon, but it's best to get here between 1pm and 6pm when there's much more on offer. Beware, the sizes stocked here tend to suit the lissom Asian frame. A terrific place to soak up local atmosphere.
oK11 SelectACCESSORIES, CLOTHING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Shop 101, K11 Mall, 18 Hanoi Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui; h10am-10pm)
In the K11 ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 18 Hanoi Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui; mEast Tsim Sha Tsui, exit D2) mall, this shop gathers the best of Hong Kong designers in one spot. Look for theatrical clothing from Daydream Nation, founded by a pair of Hong Kong siblings, and unisex accessories from Kapok.
8Information
Dangers & Annoyances
Hong Kong is generally a safe place, but as everywhere, things can go awry.
AAfter dark Although it is safe to walk around just about anywhere in the territory after dark, it’s best to stick to well-lit areas.
ATheft Hong Kong has its share of local pickpockets and thieves. Carry as little cash and as few valuables as possible, and if you put a bag down, keep an eye on it.
AReporting If robbed, you can obtain a loss report for insurance purposes at the police station in the area in which the crime occurred. See ‘e-Report Room’ at www.police.gov.hk.
Emergency & Important Numbers
To make a phone call to Hong Kong, dial your international access code, Hong Kong’s country code, then the eight-digit number.
Hong Kong country code 852
International access code US & Canada 011
International access code UK 00
Police emergency 999
Police 852 2527 7177
EXCHANGE RATES
Australia A$1 HK$5.99
Canada C$1 HK$5.92
China ¥1 HK$1.13
Euro €1 HK$8.21
Japan ¥100 HK$6.88
Macau MOP$1 HK$0.97
New Zealand NZ$1 HK$5.78
UK UK£1 HK$9.74
USA US$1 HK$7.76
Internet Access
Getting online in Hong Kong is a breeze.
AFree wi-fi Increasingly available in hotels and public areas, including the airport, public libraries, key cultural and recreational centres, large parks, major MTR stations, shopping malls and almost all urban cafes and bars. You can also get a free 60-minute PCCW Wi-Fi pass, available at HKTB visitor centres.
APCCW account You can also purchase a PCCW account online or at convenience stores and PCCW stores, and access the internet via any of PCCW’s 7000-plus wi-fi hot spots in Hong Kong.
If you don’t have a computer there are a few options where you can log on.
Central Library (香港中央圖書館 GOOGLE MAP ; %852 3150 1234; www.hkpl.gov.hk; 66 Causeway Rd, Causeway Bay; h10am-9pm Thu-Tue, 1-9pm Wed; mTin Hau, exit A1) Free access.
Pacific Coffee Company ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2735 0112; www.pacificcoffee.com; Shop L121, The One, 100 Nathan Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui; h7am-midnight Mon-Thu, 7am-1am Fri & Sat, 8am-midnight Sun) Internet is free for customers. There are dozens of other branches throughout Hong Kong.
LGBTIQ Travellers
Hong Kong has a small but vibrant and growing gay-and-lesbian scene and the annual Pride Parade in November now attracts rainbow flag-wavers by the thousands.
In 1991 the Crimes (Amendment) Ordinance removed criminal penalties for homosexual acts between consenting adults over the age of 18. Since then gay groups have been lobbying for legislation to address the issue of discrimination on the grounds of sexual orientation. Despite these changes, however, Hong Kong Chinese society remains fairly conservative, and it can still be risky for gays and lesbians to come out to family members or their employers.
Contact Pink Alliance (http://tcjm.org) for information about LGBTIQ culture and events in Hong Kong. Or check out the latest events in Hong Kong’s first free gay lifestyle magazine, Dim Sum Magazine (http://dimsum-hk.com).
Les Peches (%852 9101 8001; lespechesinfo@yahoo.com) is Hong Kong’s premier lesbian organisation and has monthly events for lesbians, bisexual women and their friends.
Medical Services
Hong Kong Island
Queen Mary Hospital (瑪麗醫院 GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2255 3838; www3.ha.org.hk/qmh; 102 Pok Fu Lam Rd, Pok Fu Lam; g30x, 55, 90B, 91) Public.
Ruttonjee Hospital (律敦治醫院 GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2291 2000; www.ha.org.hk; 266 Queen's Rd E, Wan Chai; mWan Chai, exit A3) Public.
Kowloon
Hong Kong Baptist Hospital (瑪嘉烈醫院 GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2339 8888; 222 Waterloo Rd, Kowloon Tong) Private.
Princess Margaret Hospital (瑪嘉烈醫院 GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2990 1111; www.ha.org.hk; 2-10 Princess Margaret Hospital Rd, Lai Chi Kok) Public.
Queen Elizabeth Hospital (伊利沙伯醫院 GOOGLE MAP ; %852 2958 8888; 30 Gascoigne Rd, Yau Ma Tei; g112, mJordan, exit C1) Public.
Money
ATMs are widely available. Credit cards are accepted in most hotels and restaurants; some budget places only take cash.
ATMs
Most ATMs are linked up to international money systems such as Cirrus, Maestro, Plus and Visa Electron.
Some of HSBC's so-called Electronic Money machines offer cash withdrawal facilities for Visa and MasterCard holders.
American Express (Amex) cardholders have access to Jetco ATMs and can withdraw local currency and travellers cheques at Express Cash ATMs in town.
Newspapers & Magazines
The main English-language newspaper in the city is the South China Morning Post (www.scmp.com). A daily broadsheet that has always toed the government line, both before and after the handover, it has the largest circulation and is read by more Hong Kong Chinese than expatriates.
Other options include Hong Kong Standard (www.thestandard.com.hk) and Hong Kong Economic Journal (www.ejinsight.com).
The Běijīng mouthpiece China Daily (www.chinadaily.com.cn) also prints an English-language edition.
Hong Kong has its share of English-language periodicals, including a slew of homegrown (and Asian-focused) business-related magazines. Time, Newsweek and the Economist are all available in their current editions.
Opening Hours
The following list summarises standard opening hours.
ABanks 9am to 4.30pm or 5.30pm Monday to Friday, 9am to 12.30pm Saturday.
AMuseums 10am to between 5pm and 9pm; closed Monday, Tuesday or Thursday.
AOffices 9am to 5.30pm or 6pm Monday to Friday (lunch hour 1pm to 2pm).
ARestaurants 11am to 3pm and 6pm to 11pm.
AShops Usually 10am to 8pm.
Post
Hong Kong Post (www.hongkongpost.com) is generally excellent; local letters are often delivered the same day they are sent and there is Saturday delivery. The staff at most post offices speak English, and the green mail boxes are clearly marked in English.
Telephone
ACodes The 'country' code for Hong Kong is 852. To call someone outside Hong Kong, dial 001, then the country code, the local area code (you usually drop the initial zero if there is one) and the number.
ARates Phone rates are cheaper from 9pm to 8am on weekdays and throughout the weekend. If the phone you’re using has registered for the IDD 0060 service, dial 0060 first and then the number; rates will be cheaper at any time.
Mobile Phones
AAccess Any GSM-compatible phone can
be used here.
ACoverage Mobile phones work everywhere, including in the harbour tunnels and on the MTR.
APurchase Service providers, including PCCW ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Ground fl, 113 Des Voeux Rd, Central; h10am-8.30pm Mon-Sat, 11am-8pm Sun; mHong Kong Station, exit A1 or A2), have mobile phones and accessories along with rechargeable SIM cards for sale from HK$98. Local calls cost between 6¢ and 12¢ a minute (calls to the mainland are about HK$1.80/minute).
Tourist Information
Hong Kong Tourism Board (香港旅遊發展局 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Star Ferry Concourse, Tsim Sha Tsui; h8am-8pm; fStar Ferry) has helpful and welcoming staff, and reams of information – most of it free. Also sells a few useful publications.
In addition to the office at the Star Ferry Visitor Concourse, HKTB has visitor centres at the airport ( GOOGLE MAP ; Chek Lap Kok; h7am-11pm), in Halls A and B on the arrivals level in Terminal 1 and the E2 transfer area; at The Peak (港島旅客諮詢及服務中心 GOOGLE MAP ; www.discoverhongkong.com; Peak Piazza, The Peak; h11am-8pm; Peak Tram ), between the Peak Tower and the Peak Galleria; and at the border to mainland China (羅湖旅客諮詢及服務中心 2nd fl, Arrival Hall, Lo Wu Terminal Bldg; h8am-6pm).
China Travel Service has four counters at the airport (中國旅行社, CTS %customer service 852 2998 7333, tour hotline 852 2998 7888; www.ctshk.com; h7am-10pm).