oCafé Nga TimMACANESE$
(雅憩花園餐廳 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Rua do Caetano, Coloane Village; mains MOP$70-200; hnoon-1am; c; g21A, 25, 26A)
We love the Chinese-Portuguese food, the small-town atmosphere, the view of the Chapel of St Francis Xavier, the prices and the owner – a guitar- and erhu-strumming ex-policeman named Feeling Wong.
Lord Stow’s BakeryBAKERY$
(澳門安德魯餅店 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 1 Rua da Tassara; egg tarts MOP$9; h7am-10pm Thu-Tue, to 7pm Wed)
Though the celebrated English baker Andrew Stow has passed away, his cafe (9 Largo do Matadouro) and Lord Stow’s Bakery keep his memory alive by serving his renowned pastéis de nata – a warm egg-custard tart (MOP$9) – and cheesecake (MOP$14) in unusual flavours, including black sesame and green tea.
oAntónioPORTUGUESE$$$
(安東尼奧 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %853 2888 8668; www.antoniomacau.com; 7 Rua dos Clérigos, Taipa Village; meals MOP$350-1200; hnoon-midnight; g22, 26)
The cosy mahogany-framed dining room, the meticulously thought-out menu and the entertaining chef, António Coelho, all make this the go-to place for traditional Portuguese food. If you can only try one Portuguese restaurant in Macau, make it this one. The octopus salad, homemade sausage (served flaming) and the African chicken are exceptional.
oRestaurante FernandoPORTUGUESE$$
(法蘭度餐廳 GOOGLE MAP ; %853 2888 2264; 9 Hác Sá beach; meals MOP$150-270; hnoon-9.30pm; c; g21A, 25, 26A)
Possibly Coloane's most famous restaurant, sprawling Fernando's contains two separate dining rooms and a large courtyard bar area. Devoted customers and travellers pack the chequered-tablecloth-covered tables to chow on plates of garlicky clams, golden roast suckling pig, and piles of codfish rice. Expect lines during peak lunch and dinner times, especially on weekends. Cash only.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Most visitors stick to the casino bars, many of which are top-notch, but there are plenty of interesting wine bars, cafes and dives sprinkled throughout the city.
Macau Peninsula
oMacau SoulBAR
(澳感廊 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %853 2836 5182; www.macausoul.com; 31a Rua de São Paulo; h3-10pm Wed & Thu, to midnight Fri-Sun; g8A, 17, 26)
An elegant haven in wood and stained glass, where twice a month a jazz band plays to a packed audience. On most nights, though, Thelonious Monk fills the air as customers chat with the owners and dither over their 430 Portuguese wines. Opening hours vary; phone ahead.
oSingle OriginCOFFEE
(單品 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %853 6698 7475; 19 Rua de Abreu Nunes; coffee MOP$35; h11.30am-8pm Mon-Sat, 2-7pm Sun; W; g2, 4, 7, 7A, 8)
This airy corner cafe opened by coffee professional Keith Fong makes a mean shot of espresso. You can choose your poison from a daily selection of 10 beans from various regions. If you can't decide, the well-trained barristas are more than happy to help.
Lion's BarCLUB
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %853 8802 2375; www.mgmmacau.com/lion-bar; MGM Grand, Avenida Dr Sun Yat Sen; h7pm-5am Thu-Tue)
Sleekly dressed revellers dance to the house DJ and band at this open-till-5am bar and club in the MGM Grand, your best bet for Vegas-style debauchery in Macau.
Terra Coffee HouseCAFE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %853 2893 7943; 1 Largo de St Agostinho; h11am-8pm; W; g9, 16)
This tiny haven overlooking pretty St Augustine Sq will make you forget you're only a five-minute walk away from heaving Largo do Senado. Stop here for a strong and carefully crafted cuppa after visiting the nearby Sir Robert Ho Tung Library.
The Islands
oMacallan Whisky Bar & LoungeBAR
( GOOGLE MAP ; %853 8883 2221; www.galaxymacau.com; 203, 2nd fl, Galaxy Hotel, Cotai; h5pm-1am Mon-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat; g25, 25X)
Macau's best whisky bar is a traditional affair featuring oak panels, Jacobean rugs and a real fireplace. The 400-plus whisky labels include representatives from Ireland, France, Sweden and India, and a 1963 Glenmorangie. The pre-9pm happy hour means you get your age in years discounted as a percentage from your drink (30 years old = 30 percent off).
3Entertainment
Macau’s nightlife may be dominated by the ever-expanding casino scene, but a number of interesting live-music venues have also sprung up about town. For entertainment/cultural events listings, check out the bimonthly CCM+ and monthly Destination Macau available for free at MGTO outlets and larger hotels.
oVenetianCASINO
(澳門威尼斯人度假村酒店 GOOGLE MAP ; %853 2882 8877; www.venetianmacao.com; g25, 26A)
Said to be one of the 10 largest buildings in the world, the Venetian is 980,000 sq metres of what might be described as Casino Gothic architecture, packed to the gills with busloads of goggle-eyed tourists. Features include some 3000 hotel suites, a full-sized arena, an on-site medical and plastic surgery clinic and more than 500,000 sq ft of gaming floor. Its centrepiece is the Grand Canal Shoppes, an indoor mall surrounding three enormous curved canals, where gondoliers push boats of tourists through pool-blue waters while singing opera. The ceiling is painted and lit to resemble the sky at dusk, the shops are housed behind Venetian-style facades, and wandering magicians dressed like carnival revellers entertain the crowds. Surreal.
oHouse of Dancing WaterTHEATRE
(水舞間 GOOGLE MAP ; %853 8868 6688; http://thehouseofdancingwater.com; City of Dreams, Estrada do Istmo, Cotai; tickets MOP$580-1480; g50, 35)
‘The House of Dancing Water’, Macau’s most expensively made show, is a breathtaking melange of stunts, acrobatics and theatre designed by Franco Dragone, the former director of Cirque du Soleil. The magic revolves around a cobalt pool the size of several Olympic-sized swimming pools. Over, around, into and under this pool a cast of 80, dressed in glorious costumes, perform hair-raising stunts.
oLive Music AssociationLIVE MUSIC
(LMA; 現場音樂協會 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/LMA.Macau; 11b San Mei Industrial Bldg, 50 Avenida do Coronel Mesquita; g3, 9, 32, 12, 25)
The go-to place for indie music in Macau, this excellent dive inside an industrial building has hosted local and overseas acts, including Cold Cave, Buddhistson, Mio Myo and Pet Conspiracy. See the website for what's on. Macau indie bands to watch out for include WhyOceans (www.whyoceans.com) and Turtle Giant (www.turtlegiant.com).
7Shopping
Browsing through the shops in the old city, specifically on crumbly Rua dos Ervanários and Rua de Nossa Senhora do Amparo near the Ruins of St Paul, can be a great experience. You can also look for antiques or replicas at shops on or near Rua de São Paulo, Rua das Estalagens and Rua de São António. Rua de Madeira and Rua dos Mercadores, which lead up to Rua da Tercena and its flea market, have shops selling mah-jong tiles and bird cages.
Macau Peninsula
Livraria PortuguesaBOOKS, GIFTS
(Portuguese Bookstore; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %853 2851 5915; Rua de São Domingos 18; h11am-7pm; g3, 4, 6A, 8A, 19, 33)
Right in the heart of Macau's historic district, this two-storey bookshop carries both English and Portuguese titles, including some hard-to-find Macanese cookbooks. It also stocks gift items, like imported Portuguese soaps and perfumes. Founded more than 30 years ago, it's one of the few places in Macau where you can reliably hear Portuguese spoken.
Macau Design CentreGIFTS & SOUVENIRS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %853 2852 0335; www.dcmacau.com/en; Travessa da Fabrica 5; h11am-7pm; g1A, 2, 6A, 8, 8A, 10, 12, 19, 22, 28B, 28BX, 28C, 34)
In a gritty working-class neighbourhood, this shop/gallery/exhibition space showcases Macau designers. Look out for handmade ceramics, high-quality leather bags, trendy clothes, framed graphics and more.
Mercearia PortuguesaFOOD
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %853 2856 2708; www.merceariaportuguesa.com; 8 Calçada da Igreja de São Lazaro; h1-9pm Mon-Fri, noon-9pm Sat & Sun; g7, 8)
The charming Portuguese corner shop opened by a film director and actress has a small but well-curated selection of provisions, w
hich includes honey, chinaware, wooden toys and jewellery from Portugal – gorgeously packaged and reasonably priced.
The Islands
oCunha BazaarGIFTS & SOUVENIRS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.cunhabazaar.com; Rua do Cunha 33-35, Taipa Village; h9.30am-10pm)
This four-storey shop on the corner of Taipa Village's Rua do Cunha pedestrian street has the motherlode of made-in-Macau gifts, T-shirts, candies and more. You'll find traditional foods like almond cookies and jerky on the ground floor, while the 1st floor is dedicated to goods bearing the image of Macau's own Soda Panda, a perpetually grumpy cartoon panda who likes to do Macanese things like eat egg tarts and play roulette. The remaining two floors are dedicated to leather goods, ceramics, notebooks, sketches and so on by local designers.
8Information
Dangers & Annoyances
Violent crime against visitors in Macau is rare, but pickpocketing and other street crime can occur in busy areas.
Take extra caution with passports and valuables in crowded areas and when visiting casinos late at night.
Emergency & Important Numbers
Police, fire & ambulance 999
24hr tourist emergency hotline 110, 112
International directory assistance 101
Local directory assistance 181
EXCHANGE RATES
Australia A$1 MOP$6.17
Canada C$1 MOP$6.10
China ¥1 MOP$1.16
Euro €1 MOP$8.46
Hong Kong HK$1 MOP$1.03
Japan ¥100 MOP$7.09
New Zealand NZ$1 MOP$5.78
UK UK£1 MOP$10.04
USA US$1 MOP$7.99
Gay & Lesbian Travellers
Gay culture is not particularly visible in Macau, though a handful of activists and lawmakers are seeking to change that. Gay and lesbian travellers are unlikely to be bothered by locals, though displays of affection may bring stares. Rainbow of Macau (www.rainbow.mo), the territory's only gay-rights association, has information about the state of same-sex civil rights.
Internet Access
You can access free public wi-fi in select government premises, tourist hot spots and public areas daily from 8am to 1am the following day. See www.wifi.gov.mo for details.
Most cafes and hotels in Macau have free wi-fi.
You can also buy prepaid phonecards from CTM, ranging from MOP$50 to MOP$130, to enjoy mobile broadband; or buy a mobile broadband pass for unlimited internet access for one day (MOP$120) or five days (MOP$220).
Medical Services
Two of Macau's hospitals have 24-hour emergency services.
Centro Hospitalar Conde São Januário (山頂醫院 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %853 2831 3731; Estrada do Visconde de São Januário) Southwest of Guia Fort.
Hospital Kiang Wu (鏡湖醫院 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %853 2837 1333; Rua de Coelho do Amaral) Northeast of the ruins of the Church of St Paul.
Money
Macau’s currency is the pataca (MOP$). Most ATMs allow you to choose between patacas and Hong Kong dollars. Credit cards are readily accepted at Macau’s hotels, larger restaurants and casinos. You can also change cash and travellers cheques at the banks lining Avenida da Praia Grande and Avenida de Almeida Ribeiro, as well as at major hotels.
Opening Hours
ABanks 9am to 5pm weekdays and to 1pm on Saturday.
AGovernment offices Usually 9am to 1pm and 2.30pm to 5.30pm (or 5.45pm) on weekdays.
ARestaurants Noon to 2.30pm and 6pm to 10pm.
AShops 10am to 6pm.
Post
Correios de Macau, Macau’s postal system, is efficient and inexpensive. The Main Post Office (郵政總局 GOOGLE MAP ; %853 2832 3666; www.macaupost.gov.mo; 126 Avenida de Almeida Ribeiro; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat) faces Largo do Senado; pick up poste restante from counter 1 or 2.
EMS Speedpost is available at the main post office. Other companies, such as Federal Express and DHL, can also arrange express forwarding.
Telephone
Local calls are free from private telephones; at a public payphone they cost MOP$1 for five minutes. Most hotels will charge you MOP$3.
Macau’s telephone service provider is Companhia de Telecomunicações de Macau. There are several conveniently located CTM branches in Macau.
Companhia de Telecomunicações de Macau (澳門電訊總店; Companhia de Telecomunicações de Macau GOOGLE MAP ; 25 Rua Pedro Coutinho, Pedro Coutinho Shop; h10.30am-8pm) Two blocks northeast of the Lou Lim Ieoc Garden.
Phonecards
All payphones permit International Direct Dialling (IDD) using an Easy Call phonecard available for purchase from CTM for MOP$100. Rates are cheaper from 9pm to 8am on weekdays and all day Saturday and Sunday. Prepaid SIM cards are available from CTM for MOP$50 (for local calls) and MOP$50/100/130 (with IDD and international roaming), which allow internet access through mobile broadband.
Tourist Information
The Macau Government Tourist Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; %853 8397 1120, tourism hotline 853 2833 3000; www.macautourism.gov.mo; Edificio Ritz, Largo do Senado; h9am-1pm & 2.30-5.35pm Mon-Fri) is a well-organised and helpful source of information. It dispenses a large selection of free literature, including pamphlets on everything from Chinese temples and Catholic churches to fortresses, gardens and walks. The MGTO also runs a 24-hour tourist hotline (853 2833 3000) and a 24-hour tourists’ emergency hotline (110 or 112).
MGTO has a Hong Kong branch and half a dozen outlets scattered all over Macau.
MGTO–Macau Ferry Terminal (旅遊局外港碼頭分局 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %853 8790 7039; h9am-10pm)
MGTO – Macau International Airport (澳門旅遊局; Macau Government Tourism Office GOOGLE MAP ; %853 2886 1418; www.macautourism.gov.mo; Macau International Airport; h10am-10pm) Mezzanine level.
The Macau Cultural Affairs Bureau (www.icm.gov.mo) lists Macau's cultural offerings month by month.
Travel Agencies
China Travel ServiceTRAVEL AGENCY
(中國旅行社; Zhōngguó Lǚxíngshè; CTS MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %853 2870 0888; www.cts.com.mo; Nam Kwong Bldg, 207 Avenida do Dr Rodrigo Rodrigues; h9am-6pm)
Express China visas (MOP$1250 plus photos) are available to most passport holders in two days.
Travel with Children
Macau's emphasis on historic buildings and gambling doesn't make it the most child-centric destination in the world, but intrepid family travellers will find plenty to do. Many of the newer casinos are selling themselves as family-friendly, with indoor playgrounds and kid-approved food courts. There are also a handful of museums of interest to children, notably the Macau Science Centre.
Travellers with Disabilities
Macau is not exactly friendly to travellers with disabilities. The historical part of Macau sits on a hilly landscape and pavement is often uneven, though some major sights do have provisions for disability access. The newer parts, eg around the Cotai Strip, are flat and have wider streets.
Macau law requires accessible facilities in public buildings (usually in the form of a ramp) and disabled parking bays in public parking lots. Traffic lights generally have audible signals to help the sight-impaired cross the street.
Public transport, including taxis, is not equipped to accommodate people with physical disabilities. The airport is quite accessible, but accessing the ferries from Hong Kong to Macau would require assistance from the staff.
Visas
Most travellers can enter Macau with just their passports for between 30 and 90 days, including citizens of the following:
Australia
Canada
EU
New Zealand
South Africa
USA
Travellers who do require visas can get them, valid for 30 days, on arrival in Macau. They cost MOP$100/50/200 per adult/child under 12 years/family.
You can get a single one-month visa extension from the Peninsula or Taipa (澳門入境處 GOOGLE MAP ; %853 2872 5488; Travessa Um do Cais de Pac On, Taipa; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri)
branches of the Macau Immigration Department.
8Getting There & Away
Most travellers arrive in Macau by ferry from Hong Kong. If you are coming from mainland China, you can take the ferry or a bus from Guǎngdōng, or fly from select cities in mainland China.
Macau International Airport is connected to a limited number of destinations in Asia. If you are coming from outside Asia and destined for Macau, your best option is to fly to Hong Kong International Airport and take a ferry to Macau without going through Hong Kong customs.
Nationals of Australia, Canada, the EU, New Zealand and most other countries (but not US citizens) can purchase their China visas at Zhūhǎi on the border, but it will ultimately save you time if you get one in advance. These are available in Hong Kong or in Macau from China Travel Service, usually in one day.
Air
Located on Taipa Island, Macau International Airport ( GOOGLE MAP ; %853 2886 1111; www.macau-airport.com) is only 20 minutes from the city centre. It has frequent services to destinations including Bangkok, Chiang Mai, Kaohsiung, Kuala Lumpur, Manila, Osaka, Seoul, Singapore, Taipei and Tokyo.
Air MacauAIRLINE
(澳門航空; NX MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %853 8396 5555; www.airmacau.com.mo; ground fl, 398 Alameda Doutor Carlos d'Assumpção; h9am-6pm)
Lonely Planet China Page 111