8Information
Bank of ChinaBANK
(中国银行; Zhōngguó Yínháng GOOGLE MAP ; Duanzhou Wulu; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat)
China PostPOST
(中国邮政; Zhōngguó Yóuzhèng GOOGLE MAP ; Jianshe Sanlu; h9am-8pm)
China Travel ServiceTOURIST INFORMATION
(CTS; 中国旅行社; Zhōngguó Lǚxíngshè GOOGLE MAP ; %0758 226 8090; Duanzhou Wulu; h8am-9pm)
8Getting There & Away
Bus
The main bus station (肇庆汽车客运总站; Zhàoqìng Qìchē Kèyùn Zǒngzhàn GOOGLE MAP ; %0758 223 5173; Duanzhou Silu) has frequent services to the following:
AGuǎngzhōu ¥55, 1½ hours, frequent (6.30am to 9.30pm)
AShēnzhèn ¥100, three hours, frequent (7.30am to 7.30pm)
AZhūhǎi ¥100, four hours, 13 daily (7.40am to 6.30pm)
The east bus station (肇庆城东客运站; Zhàoqìng Chèngdōng Kèyùnzhàn %0758 271 8474; Duanzhou Sanlu), around 1.5km east of the main bus station, has services to Kāipíng (¥55, 2½ hours).
Ferry
Ferries ( GOOGLE MAP ) take passengers across to a tiny island on Dǐng Lake (Dǐnghú).
Train
The fastest train to Guǎngzhōu (¥17 to ¥28, every 30 minutes) takes two hours.
8Getting Around
Bus 12 links the train station (¥2, every 10 minutes) and main bus station with the ferry pier. A taxi to the train station from the centre costs about ¥15.
Around Zhàoqìng
Dǐnghú Shān 鼎湖山
The reserve of Dǐnghú Shān (鼎湖山), northeast of Zhàoqìng, offers great walks among lush vegetation, rare trees and roaring waterfalls, and makes for a relaxing day trip.
1Sights
Dǐnghú Shān ReserveNATURE RESERVE
(鼎湖山自然保护区; Dĭnghúshān Zìrán Băohù Qū %0758 262 2510; 21 Paifang Lu; ¥78; h8am-6pm)
The 11.3-sq-km Dǐnghú Shān Reserve lies 18km northeast of Zhàoqìng. A boat (¥35) will ferry you to a butterfly reserve on a tiny wooded island on Dǐng Lake (Dǐnghú). From there, a guide will take you on an hour-long hike through a scenic forest with ponds and waterfalls, to emerge near Băodĭng Garden (宝鼎园; Băodĭng Yuán), which has the world's largest dǐng, a three-legged ceremonial cauldron. Battery-operated carts (¥20) are useful for navigating the reserve.
4Sleeping & Eating
Most people visit Dǐnghú Shān as a day trip and stay in Zhàoqìng.
oQìngyún Vegetarian RestaurantVEGETARIAN$$
(庆云寺斋堂; Qìngyúnsì Zhāitáng %0758 262 1585; mains ¥38-135; h8am-2pm & 5-7pm; v)
An excellent but pricey eatery in Dǐnghú Shān Reserve that serves the famous Dǐnghú Vegetarian Dish (鼎湖上素; Dǐnghú Shàngsù; ¥68), supposedly an invention by monks around here. It also does an exceptional sweet-and-sour pork (糖醋咕噜肉; tángcù gūluròu; ¥50) with fried winter melon, no less.
Things to note: when servers give you tea, make sure it's regular tea (普通茶; pǔtōngchá; ¥3 per person) and not an exotic variety that will inflate your bill by ¥30 to ¥100; snacks left at your table also cost money.
8Getting There & Away
Bus 21 (¥2) goes to Dǐnghú Shān from the local bus station in Zhàoqìng. Dǐnghú Shān's local bus station ( GOOGLE MAP ; Duanzhou Silu) is on Duanzhou Silu.
Bāguà Villages
Two villages, exceptional for their shape and feng shui, make great excursions from Zhàoqìng. These 'bāguà villages' (八卦村; bāguà cūn) are designed according to bāguà, an octagon-shaped Taoist symbol with eight trigrams representing different phases in life.
Xiǎngǎng VillageVILLAGE
(蚬岗村; Xiǎngǎng Cūn )
Around 15km southeast of downtown Zhàoqìng, Xiǎngǎng village, founded in the Ming dynasty, is a large and lively bāguà village, and has a market at its entrance. Its 16 ancestral halls, some opulent, only open on the first and 15th days of the lunar month. Board bus 308 (¥11, one hour) at Qiáoxī bus station ( GOOGLE MAP ) in Zhàoqìng to get here.
Líchá VillageVILLAGE
(黎槎村; Líchá Cūn ¥25; h8.15am-5.30pm)
At 700-year-old Líchá village, 21km east of Zhàoqìng, houses, many with wok-handle roofs and bas-relief sculptures, radiate from a taichi (a symbol of yin and yang) on a central terrace, turning the village into a maze. Most residents have emigrated to Australia; only the elders remain. Bus 315 (¥11, 40 minutes) leaves for Líchá behind Qiáoxī bus station in Zhàoqìng every 15 minutes.
Qīngyuǎn 清远
%0763 / Pop 3.7 million
The industrial town of Qīngyuǎn (清远) is where to set off for a scenic jaunt down the Běijiāng River (北江). The secluded temple in Fēilái and the monastery in Fēixiá are the main attractions. Four-hour cruises (¥380 to ¥600 for the whole boat, depending on size) leave from Qīngyuǎn’s Wǔyī dock (五一码头; Wǔyī Mǎtóu).
1Sights
FēixiáMONASTERY
(飞霞 ¥50; h7.30am-5.30pm)
The admission fee to the monastery at Fēixiá, 4km upstream from Fēilái, includes an eight-minute ride (every 15 minutes) to the Taoist relics uphill. Cángxiá Ancient Cave (藏霞古洞; c 1863) is a maze of whispering shadows, abandoned courtyards and crumbling alleys connected by arboured paths. Further up, there is a pagoda; further down, a nunnery.
Fēilái TempleBUDDHIST SITE
(飞来寺; Fēilái Sì ¥15; h7.30am-5pm)
Cruise along the Běijiāng River (北江) from Qīngyuǎn’s Wǔyī dock (五一码头; Wǔyī Mǎtóu), heading past ancient pagodas to the Buddhist temple complex of Fēilái. Though it has been around for more than 1400 years, the complex was destroyed by a landslide in 1997 and subsequently rebuilt. The mountain-top pavilion offers terrific views of the river gorge below.
4Sleeping
Most people do Qīngyuǎn boat tours as a day trip from Guǎngzhōu. If you do get stuck, there are budget hotels (from ¥120) a block or two back from the docks.
8Getting There & Away
To visit Fēilái and Fēixiá on a day trip from Guǎngzhōu, catch one of the 10 high-speed trains from Guǎngzhōu South railway station that stop in Qīngyuǎn (¥25 to ¥40, 30 minutes).
Buses run every 25 minutes from Guǎngzhōu’s long-distance bus stations (¥37 to ¥42, 70 to 80 minutes, 6.30am to 9pm).
8Getting Around
It’s a 15-minute walk from Qīngyuǎn station to Qīngyuǎn’s Wǔyī dock. Turn right as you leave the station.
Nánlǐng National Forest Park 南岭国家森林公园
%0751 / Pop 2000
Lying 285km north of Guǎngzhōu, the Nánlǐng (南岭; Southern Mountains) ranges stretch from Guǎngxī to Jiāngxī provinces, separating the Pearl River from the Yangzi River.
1Sights & Activities
Come here with water and your walking boots. There are four trails, most of which can be completed in under three hours.
The Nánlǐng National Forest Park entrance is at the southern end of the village of Wúzhǐshān (五指山), which is small enough to cover on foot. Farmers nearby do their weekly shopping and stock clearance at Wúzhǐshān’s lively Sunday market. Staying in Orange House here will give you access to the park the next day. Just get your ticket and receipt stamped at the hotel.
From Wúzhǐshān it’s 6km to the start of the trails to Pùbù Chángláng waterfalls and Water Valley, and another 6km to Little Yellow Mountain. The best way of getting around is to hire a car from Wúzhǐshān. For between ¥350 and ¥500 you can hire one for the whole day. The driver can drop you at one end of the trail and wait for you at the other. A one-way trip to the lower entrance of the trail to Little Yellow Mountain costs ¥120.
Nánlǐng National Forest Park ReserveNATURE RESERVE
(南岭国家森林公园; Nánlǐng Guójiā Sēnlín Gōngyuán 327 Xian Dao, Rŭyuán Yao Autonomous Region, 乳源瑶族自治区县道327号; ¥80; h6am-6pm)
The Nánlǐng mountain range in Guǎngdōng is
home to the only ancient forests in the province, and is a reserve for old-growth blue pines, a species unique to this part of Guǎngdōng.
Water ValleyHIKING
(亲水谷; Qīnshuǐgǔ )
The easiest of the four walks through Nánlǐng National Forest Park, this 6km trail follows a stream and leads you through the steep-sided gorges and crystalline pools of Water Valley.
Pùbù ChánglángHIKING
(瀑布长廊 )
This short but interesting 3.5km trail through Nánlǐng National Forest Park takes you past roaring waterfalls.
4Sleeping & Eating
As camping inside Nánlǐng National Forest Park is prohibited, the only option is to stay in Wúzhǐshān. There are a couple of zhāodàisuǒ (招待所; basic lodgings), where you can get a room from ¥90.
Brings snacks and water as the only reliable places to get food are in Wúzhǐshān.
Orange HouseBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
(橙屋; Chéngwū %0751 523 2929; www.ctrip.com; d ¥398-498, Ranger House tr ¥198; ai)
A cheery boutique hotel with 32 comfortable but slightly musty rooms. The hotel also manages the air-con-free Ranger House (林舍, Lińshè) behind Orange House. Discounts of 30% to 40% online. They can arrange transport to and from the park.
Feng’s KitchenCANTONESE$
(冯家菜; Féngjiācài %138 2799 2107; mains ¥10-40; h7am-8.30pm)
A farmer restaurant that cures its own meat and grows its own vegetables (¥10 per plate). Reservations necessary. Mr Feng can arrange for car hire of any duration.
8Getting There & Away
Bus
Sháoguān (韶关) is your gateway to Nánlǐng. Buses (¥75 to ¥95, 3½ hours) leave Guǎngzhōu’s long-distance bus stations for Sháoguān’s Xīhé bus station every hour (6.50am to 8.30pm).
If you miss the bus to Wúzhǐshān, catch a bus to Rǔyuán (乳源; ¥10, one hour, every 15 minutes). From Rǔyuán, three buses to Wúzhǐshān (¥10) leave at 9am, 12.45pm and 4.30pm, or you can hire a taxi (¥90).
In Wúzhǐshān, buses to Sháoguān leave at 7.30am, 12.30pm and 3.30pm.
Train
High-speed trains (¥105, one hour) leave from Guǎngzhōu South railway station for Sháoguān train station (韶关高铁站, Sháoguān Gāotiézhàn). From there, board bus 22 and get off at Xīhé bus station (西河汽车站; Xīhé Qìchēzhàn %0751 875 4176; Gongye Donglu). Buses to Wúzhǐshān (¥22, two hours) depart at 8am, 11.45am and 3.30pm.
Guǎngzhōu’s main train station has trains that stop over at Sháoguān East train station (韶关东站, Sháoguān Dōngzhàn ) (韶 关东站; Sháoguān Dōngzhàn, ¥38, 2½ hours). Buses to Wúzhǐshān leave at 7.45am, 11.15am and 3.15pm.
Shēnzhèn 深圳
%0755 / Pop 10.6 million
One of China’s wealthiest cities and a Special Economic Zone (SEZ), Shēnzhèn (深圳) draws a mix of business people, investors and migrant workers to its golden gates. It's a popular, easy day trip from Hong Kong, surprising most visitors who just expect a peek at a very serious mainland China, but find a thriving club and indie-music nightlife, or squads of housewives breaking out dance moves in public squares into the evening. The myriad theme parks, which include fun miniature landmarks, also amuse, as do the quirky specialty markets where you can grab a bargain house decoration or dozen. Shēnzhèn is also a useful transport hub for other parts of China.
It's worth remembering if you're planning a day trip from Hong Kong, you'll still need a mainland Chinese visa to enter Shēnzhèn.
Shēnzhèn
4Sleeping
1Shangri-LaD3
2Shēnzhèn Vision Fashion HotelA2
5Eating
3Bollywood CafeD2
4DōngméndīngD1
5LaurelD3
6Mǐ Mǐ JiāD2
Yúnláijū VegetarianD1
8Information
7China Travel ServiceD1
8Great Land International Travel ServiceC1
Internet CafeD1
9Tourist OfficeC3
1Sights
oOCT-LOFTARTS CENTRE
(华侨城创意文化园; Huáqiáochéng Chuàngyì Wénhuàyuán %0755 2691 1976; Enping Jie, Huáqiáochéng, 南山区华侨城恩平街 h10am-5.30pm; mQiáochéngdōng, exit A)
The sprawling OCT-LOFT complex, converted from fashionably austere communist-era factories, is one of the best places to see contemporary art in Shēnzhèn, and makes for a wonderful (if ever-more commercial) browse-as-you-stroll experience. Large exhibition spaces and private galleries – many closed on Mondays – are complemented by chilled cafes (not to mention the ubiquitous Starbucks), restaurants with exposed ventilation ducts, quirky fashion boutiques, a gem of a bookstore, and the obligatory 'lifestyle' outlets.
Shēnzhèn MuseumMUSEUM
(深圳博物馆新馆; Shēnzhèn Bówùguǎn Xīnguǎn GOOGLE MAP ; %0755 8812 5800; www.shenzhenmuseum.com.cn; East Gate, Block A, Citizens’ Centre, Fuzhong Sanlu, Fútián District; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun; mLine 4, Shìmín Zhōngxīn, exit B)F
The hulking Shēnzhèn Museum provides a solid introduction to Shēnzhèn's short yet dynamic history of social transformation, both before and after the implementation of Deng Xiaoping’s policies of reform. Highlights include propaganda art popular in the 1940s and the colourful scale models in the folk culture hall.
OCT Art & Design GalleryGALLERY
(华美术馆; Huá Měishùguǎn %0755 3399 3111; www.oct-and.com; 9009 Shennan Dadao, 深南大道9009号 adult/child ¥15/8; h10am-5.30pm Tue-Sun; mHuáqiáochéng, exit C)
The bare interiors of this former warehouse are filled with the works of excellent mainland and international graphic designers. Exhibits change frequently. It's a glass-encased steel structure adjacent to Hé Xiāngníng Art Gallery.
Window of the WorldAMUSEMENT PARK
(世界之窗; Shìjiè Zhīchuāng %0755 2660 8000; www.szwwco.com; 9037 Shennan Dadao, 深南大道9037号 adult/child under 12yr ¥180/90; h9am-10.30pm; c; g90 or 245 from Shēnzhèn Bay Port, mShìjiè Zhīchuāng, exit J)
Just a few minutes' walk from the OCT Art & Design Gallery is a series of dated theme parks that are always packed with snap-happy Chinese tourists. They're fun destinations for a family day out. Window of the World sports a collection of scale replicas of famous world monuments. Foreigners being misidentified as part of the exhibits is not unheard of. Not all replicas are lit up at night, so come before sunset if you must see everything.
4Sleeping
oShēnzhèn Loft Youth HostelHOSTEL$
(深圳侨城旅友国际青年旅舍; Shēnzhèn Qiáochéng Lǚyǒu Guójì Qīngnián Lǚshè %0755 8609 5773; www.yhachina.com; 7 Xiangshan Dongjie, OCT-LOFT, Huáqiáochéng, Nánshān District; 南山区，华侨城香山东街7号 dm/d/ste from ¥70/220/410; naiW; mQiáochéngdōng, exit A)
Located in a tranquil part of OCT-LOFT, near the junction of Enping Jie and Xiangshan Dongjie, this immaculate YHA hostel has over 50 private rooms, all with showers, and dormitory-type accommodation with shared bathrooms. The staff are well-trained and helpful.
Shēnzhèn Vision Fashion HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
(深圳视界风尚酒店; Shēnzhèn Shìjiè Fēngshàng Jiǔdiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0755 2558 2888; www.visionfashionhotel.com; 5018 Shennan Donglu; 深南东路5018号 d ¥488-1888; aiW; mGrand Theatre, exit B)
Inside a theatre complex is this boutique hotel featuring eclectic designs in its rooms. Some are chic, some bizarre. Its prime location and quiet environment make it a very good choice. Discounts of 50% to 70% are available.
Shangri-LaHOTEL$$$
(香格里拉大酒店; Xiānggélǐlā Dàjiǔdiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0755 8233 0888; www.shangri-la.com/shenzhen; 1002 Jianshe Lu, 建设路1002号 d ¥1700-2010, ste ¥3500; pWs)
This classic, luxury hotel, on a corner next to Luóhú train station, is one of the best places to stay in Luóhú District. Rooms are spacious and sparkling, and there is a full-sized outdoor pool. Rates are nearly half-price on its website.
5Eating
oBollywood CafeSOUTH INDIAN$
(宝莱坞印度餐厅; Bǎoláiwù Yìndù Cāntīng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0755 8222 0370; 3rd fl, 2055 Renmin Nanlu; 人民南路2055-3号 mains ¥45-58; h10.30am-3pm & 5.30-11.30pm; aWv; mGuómào)
One of the top restaurants for international food in Guǎngdōng – definitely the best Indian. The South Indian flavours have kick in the Kedai chicken or flaky naan. A steady flow of Indian families and businessmen to the white-tableclothed tables gives a nod to the authenticity. English spoken by the Indian owners and staff. Look for yellow steps at street level.
Mǐ Mǐ JiāCHINESE$
(米米嘉 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0755 8222 9839; 3015 Dongmen Nanlu; 东门南路3015号 dishes ¥4-13; h10am-9pm; mGúomào)
You might get flashbacks to school dinners, but this casual restaurant is great for trying out dishes. Small plates such as whole baked fish with ginger slivers, stewed pork or chilli tofu are hot, fresh and on display, making for easy selection – no menu needed. It's opposite a 7 Days Inn on a small street off the larger Dongmen Nanlu of the same name..
Yúnláijū VegetarianVEGETARIAN$
(云来居素食馆(东门店; Yúnláijū Sùshíguǎn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0755 8238 3253; 4th fl, Rénmín Běilù Dōngmén Xīngànxiàn; 人民北路东门新干线4层 dishes ¥13-48; h10am-10pm; v; mLǎojiē)
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