AFóshān ¥60 to ¥75, three hours, 10 daily
AGuǎngzhōu ¥60 to ¥75, 2½ hours, frequent
AKāipíng ¥40 to ¥75, three hours, four daily
AShàntóu ¥180, 6½ hours, two daily
AShēnzhèn ¥80, three hours, every 30 minutes
AZhàoqìng ¥100, 4½ hours, 10 daily
Light Rail
Guǎngzhōu–Zhūhǎi Light Rail (广珠城轨 %0756 9510 5105) Serves Zhūhǎi North station (珠海北站) and Guǎngzhōu South station (¥36, 70 minutes). Zhūhǎi North station can be reached by buses K1, 3A and 65.
8Getting Around
Zhūhǎi’s airport, 43km southwest of the centre, runs an airport shuttle bus ( GOOGLE MAP ) (¥25, 50 to 70 minutes) to the city centre (every 30 minutes, 6am to 9.30pm) from Jiǔzhōu Port and the Zhōngzhū Building (中珠大厦; Zhōngzhū Dàshà GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Yuehua Lu & Yingbin Nanlu). A taxi to the centre costs about ¥150.
Flag fall for taxis is ¥10 for the first 3km, then ¥0.60 for each additional 250m.
Cháozhōu 潮州
%0768 / Pop 2.7 million
Charming Cháozhōu (潮州) was once a thriving trading and cultural hub in southern China, rivalling Guǎngzhōu. Today, it still preserves its distinct dialect, cuisine and opera. Cháozhōu is best appreciated at a leisurely pace, so do consider spending a night here.
Paifang Jie (牌坊街; Street of Memorial Arches), running 1948m from north to south in the old quarter, has signage to the main sights and is a good place to orient yourself. It’s made up of Taiping Lu (太平路; 1742m) and Dongmen Jie (东门街; 206m).
Cháozhōu
1Top Sights
1Guǎngjǐ BridgeD3
2West LakeB1
1Sights
3Cháozhōu City WallC2
4Hánbì BuildingB1
5Hánwén TempleD3
6Jǐluè Huáng TempleC2
7Kāiyuán TempleC3
8Paifang JieC4
9Phoenix BuildingB1
4Sleeping
10Fǔchéng InnC3
11Zàiyáng InnC2
5Eating
12Liánhuā VegetarianC3
13Zhèng's Private KitchenC2
6Drinking & Nightlife
14Pǐnyǔ TeahouseC3
7Shopping
15Cháozhōu Opera Costumes & PropsC3
1Sights
Sights abound in Cháozhōu but admission charges can add up. Before you go sightseeing, buy a combo ticket (¥80) from Jīnlóng Travel Service, located across Huangcheng Nanlu from the southern entrance of Street of Memorial Arches. Tickets are good for two days and cover six or seven sights.
oWest LakePARK
(西湖; Xīhú MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0768 222 0731; Huancheng Xilu, 环城西路 h8am-11pm)F
The moat of ancient Cháozhōu is a lake inside a park well-loved by locals. Around the lake are a few notable buildings. Hánbì Building ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; West Lake) served as a military office during anti-warlord expeditions in 1925. Sitting on a knoll is Phoenix Building (凤楼; Fènglóu MAP GOOGLE MAP ; h6am-6pm), with its bird-like shape, iron moongate, gourd-shaped ceiling openings, and quirky interior spaces formed by the fowl’s anatomy.
oGuǎngjǐ BridgeBRIDGE
(广济桥; Guǎngjǐ Qiáo MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0768 222 2683; ¥50; h10am-5.30pm)
Originally a 12th-century pontoon bridge with 86 boats straddling the Hán River, Guǎngjǐ Bridge suffered repeated destruction over the centuries. The current version is a brilliant, faux-ancient passageway with 18 wooden boats hooked up afresh every morning and 24 stone piers topped with pagodas.
A ticket allows you one crossing. If you want to come back, remember to tell the staff ‘I want to come back’ (我要回来; ‘wǒyào huílai’) before leaving the bridge.
Jǐluè Huáng TempleTEMPLE
(己略黄公祠; Jǐluè Huánggōngcí MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0768 225 1318; 2 Tie Xiang, Yian Lu; ¥10; h8.30am-5pm)
The highlights here are the ancient Cháozhōu woodcarvings decorating the walls and thresholds – most single pieces took a decade to complete. The art form is famous for its rich and subtle details, intricate designs and exquisite craftsmanship. Emerging 1000 years ago, it flourished during the Qing dynasty, which was also when this small temple (1887) was built. It's a short walk from Paifang Jie. No English explanations.
Kāiyuán TempleBUDDHIST SITE
(开元寺; Kāiyuán Sì MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Kaiyuan Lu, 开元路 h6am-5.30pm)F
Built in AD 738, Cháozhōu’s most famous temple has old bodhi trees and an embarrassment of statues, including one of a 1000-arm Guanyin. Roof tiles can be daubed by a calligraphist (by donation) with your wishes, to be later installed in the complex ceiling (at least for a while).
Hánwén TempleTEMPLE
(韩文公祠; Hánwéngōng Cí MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ¥20; h8am-5.30pm)
On the east bank of the Hán, this is the oldest and best-preserved temple dedicated to the Tang dynasty philosopher Han Yu, who was banished to ‘far-flung’ Guǎngdōng for his anti-Buddhist views.
Cháozhōu City WallHISTORIC SITE
(潮州古府城墙; Cháozhōu Gǔfǔ Chéngqiáng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; h24hr)F
The remains of the ancient city wall run alongside and back from the river. You can walk on the top of most sections.
4Sleeping
The most convenient place to stay to see the sights is near Guǎngjǐ Bridge and Paifang Jie. The glut of lower-midrange options and chain hotels tend to be further out, near the main bus station or city centre.
oZàiyáng InnHOTEL$
(载阳客栈; Zàiyáng Kèzhàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0768 223 1272; www.czdafudi.com; 15 Zaiyang Xiang, Taiping Lu; 太平路, 载阳巷15号 s ¥128, d ¥168-368; W)
This classy Qing-style inn with graceful courtyards and antique woodcarvings is the place to stay in Cháozhōu. Rooms are small, but clean and far from street noise, though wooden-gate-style doors might feel too exposed for some. Prices more than double during holidays. Located in an alley off Paifang Jie; ¥10 by pedicab from the main bus station.
Fǔchéng InnHOTEL$
(府城客栈; Fǔchéng Kèzhàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0768 222 8585; 9 Fensi Houxiang, Taiping Lu; 太平路, 分司后巷9号 s/d ¥128/208; aW)
Located in an old building inside an alley off Paifang Jie, Fǔchéng Inn offers decent accommodation and opportunities to meet fellow travellers. Rooms on the ground floor can be noisy. It's ¥10 by pedicab from the main bus station (汽车总站).
5Eating
Food is generally good in Cháozhōu. On Paifang Jie you'll find China's best beef balls with noodles (牛丸粉; niúwán fěn) and oyster omelette (蚝烙; háolào), though prices can be a little more local just a block away. There are also a number of trendy cafes, all offering free wi-fi.
oLiánhuā VegetarianCHINESE$
(莲华素食府; Liánhuā Sùshífǔ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0768 223 8033; 9 Kaiyuan Guangchang, 2nd fl, 开元广场9号2楼 mains ¥18-48; h11am-2pm & 5-8pm; v)
An excellent vegetarian restaurant opposite Kāiyuán Temple. The menu also features Cháozhōu specialities, including the delightful desserts on the last page.
oZhèng’s Private KitchenCHINESE$$
(郑厨私房菜; Zhèngchú Sīfángcài MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0768 399 1310; 1 Shangdong Pinglu; 上东平路1号 per person ¥50-100; hlunch & dinner)
A private kitchen that whips up impressive Cháozhōu-style seafood dishes. Ask a Mandarin- or Cantonese-speaking friend to call and book at least a day in advance. Also tell them your budget per person; and if you don't want shark's fin, a speciality here, say so too. It's in the first lane opposite Shàngshuĭmén Gate Tower (上水门城楼; Shàngshuĭmén Chénglóu).
Walk down the lane until you see the stairs.
6Drinking & Nightlife
By night you can try your luck with a few of the cafes catering to tourists on or just off Paifang Jie, but options are very limited after 9pm, especially during the week.
oPǐnyǔ TeahouseTEAHOUS
E
(品羽茶居; Pǐnyǔ Chájū MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %133 7673 9198; 15 Xima Lu; 西马路15号 per hr ¥30; h10am-10pm)
A lovely place for a tea experience with an English speaker in a minimalist, modern-meets-ancient Chinese teahouse. You pay for a taste test of bottomless different Cháozhōu teas and learn the difference between exquisite brews, such as Oolong winter versus spring tea, and how to pour tea. If you're lucky, the owner might play one of the Chinese musical instruments on display.
7Shopping
Cháozhōu Opera Costumes & PropsGIFTS & SOUVENIRS
(吉元戏剧歌舞用品 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0768 222 6041; 12 Kaiyuan Lu; h9am-10.30pm)
Diagonally across the road from Kāiyuán Temple is this tiny shop that makes gowns, headdresses, swords, sedans and shoes for the Cháozhōu opera stage.
8Information
Jīnlóng Travel ServiceTRAVEL AGENCY
(金龙旅行社; Jīnlóng Lǚxíngshè GOOGLE MAP ; %0768 222 1437; 39 Huangcheng Nanlu; h9am-5.30pm)
Before you go sightseeing in Cháozhōu, buy a combo ticket (¥80) from Jīnlóng Travel Service, located across Huangcheng Nanlu from the southern entrance of Paifang Jie.
8Getting There & Away
Bus
Services from Cháozhōu’s main bus station (潮州汽车总站; Cháozhōu qìchē zŏngzhàn GOOGLE MAP ; %0768 220 2552; 2 Chaofeng Lu):
AGuǎngzhōu ¥110 to ¥170, 5½ hours, eight daily (8am to 11.55pm)
AMéizhōu ¥58, two hours, two daily (8.30am and 3pm)
ARaópíng ¥19, one hour, 13 daily (6.30am to 6.30pm)
AShànghǎi ¥389, 20 hours, one daily (2.45pm)
AShàntóu ¥14, one hour, 13 daily (7am to 6.40pm)
AShēnzhèn ¥120 to ¥140, five hours, five daily (8am to 11pm)
AXiàmén ¥100, 3½ hours, four daily (7am to 2.20pm)
AZhūhǎi ¥140, 9½ hours, two daily (8.30am and 9.10pm)
Train
A taxi to Cháozhōu’s train station, 8km west of the centre, costs about ¥35. Services:
AGuǎngzhōu ¥91 to ¥167, seven hours, two daily (8.41am and 12.45pm)
AShàntóu ¥9, 35 minutes, three daily (7.45am, 3.30pm and 6.53pm)
Around Cháozhōu
DàoyùnlóuHISTORIC SITE
(道韵楼 ¥20; h8.30am-5.30pm)
China’s largest octagonal Hakka earthen house, Dàoyùnlóu is located in Raópíng (饶平), 53km from Cháozhōu. Some 600 villagers once resided in this stunning complex built in 1587; now only 100 remain. Ascend to the upper floors from unit 18 to admire the views and frescoes.
Buses to Raópíng (¥20, one hour) leave from the Cháozhōu main bus station. Change to a bus to the village of Sānráo (三饶; ¥13), another 50km away. From there, motor-rickshaws will take you to Dàoyùnlóu (¥5, 10 minutes).
Méizhōu 梅州
%0753 / Pop 5 million
Méizhōu (梅州), populated by the Hakka (Kèjiā in Mandarin; 客家) people, is home to China’s largest cluster of ‘coiled dragon houses’ or wéilóngwū (围龙屋). Specific to the Hakka, these are dwellings arranged in a horseshoe shape evocative of a dragon napping at the foot of a mountain. You’ll also see tǔlóu (roundhouses) dotting the fields like mysterious flying saucers, and a jumble of other architectural treasures.
1Sights
oXuán VillaHISTORIC BUILDING
(旋庐; Xuánlú 115 Dahua Lu; 大华路115号 )
Foreboding and beautiful Xuán Villa was built in 1936 by a wealthy Malaysian Chinese who was a member of a secret society tied to Sun Yatsen. Parts of the building doubled up as an air-raid shelter. If the owners let you in, you’ll see crumbling but elegant staircases and sweeping balconies with views of tea fields.
Huang Zunxian MemorialHOUSE
(黄遵宪纪念馆; Huáng Zūnxiàn Jìniànguǎn Hakka Park; 客家公园; Kèjiā Gōngyuán h9am-5pm)F
The former home of famous Qing dynasty era Méizhōu writer-philosopher Huang Zunxian (1848–1905) is hands on, allowing you to sit in the Lǐngnán-style courtyard table under a small painted pagoda and ponder civilisation (文明; wénmíng), a word that Huang was the first to use in Chinese. There are no English explanations but personal items, such as the lovely gold and red bed, speak for themselves. He is credited with convincing the emperor to allow overseas Chinese to return to China, previously punishable by torture!
Méizhōu Thousand Buddha PagodaTEMPLE
(梅州千佛塔寺; Méizhōu Qiān Fó Tǎsì %0753 229 0362; www.qianfotasi.com; Jinshao Jie; 梅江区金山街道东岩莲花山顶 ¥8; h8am-5pm; g20 to terminus, or 6 to Gangbei)
Cast in AD 965, there are indeed 1000 buddha statues (250 on each side) of varying sizes on the iron pagoda that sits on a 36m-high tower. The complex itself surprises with each turn as it takes you through an ascending journey of white, columned temples, statues built into a faux cliff, long, open corridors, bridges and finally the towering pagoda and (hazy) views across Méizhōu. The complex emphasises gold and colour, reminiscent of Thai temples. A taxi here costs about ¥35.
Hakka ParkPARK, MUSEUM
(客家公园; Kèjiā Gōngyuán Dongshan Dadao; 东山大道 hXiānqín Bldg 8.30am-5.10pm, Dáfū Bldg 8.30-11.30am & 2-5.30pm; g1, 6)
Pebbled paths and a willow-fringed pond make this small park on the north bank of the Méijiāng River a delight to stroll around in. The Hakka Museum here offers a quick warm-up to the culture of Hakkaland, and there are a couple of interesting 1930s buildings – Xiānqín Building (先勤樓; Xiānqínlóu), a courtyard-style Hakka house; and the East–West hybrid Dáfū Building (達夫樓; Dáfūlóu), which evokes a pseudo-Western train terminal drawn by Japanese animator Miyazaki.
The Huáng Zūnxiàn Memorial is a famous Qing dynasty writer's home.
Nánkǒu VillageVILLAGE
(南口; Nánkǒu )
This quiet village about 16km west of Méizhōu is where you’ll see fine examples of wéilóngwū (围龙屋) dwellings nestled between paddy fields and the hills, like dragons in repose. If you make your way to the back of Dōnghuā Lú (東華盧) and Déxīn Táng (德馨堂), you'll see rooms arranged in a semi-circle on an undulating slope, like the coiled body of a dragon. Another of the old houses, Nánhuá Yòulú (南华又庐) charges an admission of ¥11.
Bus 9 from Méizhōu's local bus terminal and buses to Xìngníng (兴宁; ¥12, every 20 minutes) from Méizhōu's main bus station go to Nánkǒu. Once you get off, walk 1km to the village entrance. The last bus back leaves at 4.30pm. A one-way taxi ride costs around ¥35.
Méizhōu Old StreetSTREET
(梅州老街; Méizhōu Lăojiē Lingfeng Lu, 凌风路 )
Méizhōu's sleepy Old Street covers four blocks on Lingfeng Lu. There's not much to see by way of building design, but there are traditional industries that cannot be found elsewhere producing fishing implements, funereal and wedding accessories, and more. Walk through the vehicular passage in the brown building opposite Huáqiáo Dàxià (華僑大廈) at 12 Jiangbian Lu (江边路) and you'll see it.
Hakka MuseumMUSEUM
(客家博物馆; Kèjiā Bówùguǎn %0753 2258 830; Dongshan Dadao; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun; g1, 6)F
This museum inside Hakka Park (客家公园; Kèjiā Gōngyuán) on the north bank of the Méijiāng River is a good warm-up to the culture of Hakkaland with model 'coiled dragon houses'. If you're interested, there's a part two outside the park. From the back entrance/exit near the stream, go straight ahead for 50m, turn right and you’ll see the small, old houses and the room full of inscribed tablets (匾額) that essentially make up Huang Zunxian Memorial Gallery (黃遵憲紀念館).
4Sleeping
Jǐnjiāng InnHOTEL$
(锦江之星旅馆; Jǐnjiāng Zhīxīng Lǚguǎn %0753 218 9999; www.jinjianginns.com; 88 Binfang Dadao; 彬芳大道88号 d ¥161-218; aW)
Near the city centre and a short walk from the Jiāngnán bus station south of the river. Modern rooms are warm in mood and tone and come with movies on demand, strong wi-fi, large co
mfy beds and small but spotless bathrooms. A taxi from the train station costs ¥20.
Royal Classic HotelHOTEL$$
(皇家名典酒店; Huángjiā Míngdiǎn Jiǔdiàn %0753 867 7777; www.hjmd-hotel.com; 35 Dongmen Lu; 東門路35号 r ¥128-1278, ste ¥1888-2888)
This glitzy Hong Kong–owned hotel has clean, quiet rooms, with wide, comfortable beds. Lifts can only be activated with guestroom card-keys, which makes it feel safe. The extravagant breakfast buffet (¥50 per person) in the revolving restaurant offers a good selection of local delicacies. Rates are often 30% to 50% of those posted.
5Eating
The local speciality is wok-tossed Hakka noodles (腌面; yānmiàn) smothered in minced pork, resembling spaghetti bolognaise. You'll find stalls all over town dishing up the noodles from 9pm and long into the night.
oDàbù Handmade NoodlesNOODLES$
(大埔手工面馆; Dàbù Shŏugōng Miànguăn 15 Bingfang Dadao; noodles ¥5-15, soup ¥5; h6.30am-2pm & 5pm-2am)
This neighbourhood shop whips up al dente Hakka tossed noodles (腌面; yānmiàn) and pig-innards soup (三及第湯; sānjídì tāng). The strands also come stir-fried (炒面; chăomiàn). Bus 4, which runs from Méizhōu train station, a 15-minute walk away, stops here. Disembark at Méiyuán Xīncūn (梅園新村). It's on your left.
Lonely Planet China Page 119