Mission Hills ResortHOT SPRINGS
(观澜湖, Guàn Lán Hú 1 Mission Hills Lu, 澜湖大道1号 admission ¥198; h1pm-midnight; c)
With 168 different pools, Mission Hills has – officially – more bathing options than anywhere in the world. Making use of Hǎikǒu’s natural mineral springs and perfumed with different herbs and spices, the baths are arranged ‘It’s a Small World’ style into themes by continent. This is the place to spend one of Hǎikǒu’s frequently overcast days; for hot sunny days there’s a wave pool with a man-made beach. You’ll need a swimsuit; towels and slippers are provided.
Tourist bus 3 leaves from Báishāmén Park for Mission Hills (¥20, 45 minutes) several times a day.
Velo ChinaCYCLING, BICYCLE RENTAL
(%189 7617 5016; www.velochina.com; Mission Hills Resort)
English-speaking Frank Li arranges well-researched, professional cycling tours all over Hǎinán from his bases in Hǎikǒu and Wǔzhǐshān. If you just want to cycle on your own, he can arrange that too: bicycle rentals start from ¥500 per week or ¥80 per day (depending on the type of bicycle).
4Sleeping
Travellers tend to stay around Hǎikǒu Park or north of the river on Hǎidiàn Island (海甸岛; Hǎidiàn Dǎo). These are both older, less flashy neighbourhoods (especially compared with the western sections of the city), but all your life-support systems, including banks, food and travel agents, can be found here.
Unlike in the more seasonal Sānyà, prices in Hǎikǒu tend to be greatly discounted from the published rates pretty much year-round.
oHǎikǒu Banana Youth HostelHOSTEL$
(海口巴纳纳国际青年旅舍, Hǎikǒu Bānànà Qīngnián Lǚshè MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0898 6628 6780; www.haikouhostel.com; 3 Dong, 6 Bieshu Liyuan Xiaoqu, 21 Renmin Dadao, 人民大道21号梨园小区6号别墅3栋 dm/s/tw/tr ¥50/98/138/168; aiW)
The digs of choice for international budget travellers, the simple, friendly Banana Youth Hostel is tucked away down a quiet residential alley. Staff speak English, and amenities include laundry, internet and common areas, as well as a super-informative bulletin board and website. The on-site restaurant is a popular expat hang-out, thanks to the superb pizzas (from ¥45).
Mountain bikes for multiday trips (per day ¥30; book in advance) are available for rent. This is also a good place to meet up with fellow cyclists and get current route information.
Hǎinán Mínháng BīnguǎnHOTEL$$
(海南民航宾馆, Hǎinán Civil Aviation Hotel MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0898 6650 6888; www.mhbghotel.com; 9 Haixiu Donglu, 海秀东路9号 r from ¥268; aW)
This hotel isn’t going to win any design awards, but it’s solid all around: a convenient central location with clean and comfortable rooms. Bonus: the airport shuttle starts and stops here. Also known as the 'Green Hotel'.
Golden Sea View HotelHOTEL$$$
(黄金海景大酒店, Huángjīn Hǎijǐng Dà Jiǔdiàn %0898 6851 9988; www.goldenhotel.com.cn; 67 Binhai Dadao, 滨海大道67号 r incl breakfast from ¥825; paW)
With discounts of 40% to 50%, rooms in this well-run, three-star hotel are priced similarly to those stuck deep in the city. The Sea View, however, sits across from Evergreen Park (a useful bus hub), at the start of the beaches just to the west of town. Rates include a breakfast buffet.
PRICE RANGES
SLEEPING
The following price ranges refer to a double room with bathroom.
$ less than ¥200
$$ ¥200–¥600
$$$ more than ¥600
EATING
The following price ranges refer to a main course or meal.
$ less than ¥30
$$ ¥30–¥100
$$$ more than ¥100
5Eating
Hǎikǒu is a great place to sample Hainanese cooking. Though much of the city’s street-food scene has been, unfortunately, swept into hawker markets following a city-wide ‘clean-up’ campaign, you can still find barbecue stalls lining up from around 9pm on Haidian 2 Donglu, between Renmin Dadao and Heping Beilu. There are several branches of the supermarket Carrefour (家乐福 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 18 Haifu Lu; 海府路18号 h8am-10pm) around town.
Hǎikǒu Qílóu Snack StreetHAINAN$
(海口骑楼小街, Hǎikǒu Qílóu Xiǎo Jiē MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Datong Lu & Jiefang Lu, 大同路解放路的路口 dishes ¥6-30; h7am-11.30pm)
This marvellous colonial arcade is the repository of many of the street vendors swept off the street in the clean-up campaign and is easily the best place to sample local Hainanese dishes. Buy a prepaid plastic card at the window on the right of the entrance, then use that to pay for your snacks (you can refund the unused amount).
oĀ Bo PóHAINAN$$
(阿卜婆 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; stall 5, 2nd fl, Tailong Cheng, Datong Lu, 大同路泰龙城二楼5号铺 chicken ¥138; h11am-8pm)
Ā Bo Pó means ‘grandma’ in Hainanese, though we’d also translate it as ‘best chicken ever'. Indeed made by a 70-something grandma, the chicken here is buried in sea salt and baked for four hours, then sealed in plastic to pull in all the juices. Just tear into it with your hands (plastic gloves are provided). One bird feeds two to three people.
It’s on the 2nd floor of the shopping arcade next to Hǎikǒu Qílóu Snack Street. Best to come early before they sell out for the day.
Bǎnqiáo Road Seafood MarketSEAFOOD, MARKET$$
(板桥路海鲜市场, Bǎnqiáo Lù Hǎixiān Shìchǎng Banqiao Lu, 板桥路 meals per person from ¥50; h11am-4am)
For a fresh seafood dinner with lots of noise, smoke and toasting, head to the hectare of tables at the Bǎnqiáo Road Seafood Market, known island-wide. First bargain for the raw ingredients from the market – local oysters for ¥5 or enormous tiger prawns for ¥20 per 100g – and then have one of the restaurants cook it up for you.
It’s best to go with a group; prices average ¥50 per person (not including beer).
Banquiao Lu is about 3km south of the city centre. A taxi to the market from downtown costs ¥15.
Red BarSICHUAN$$
(红吧, Hóng Bā %0898 6856 1314; Jiǔdū Villas, 38 Guomao Lu, 九都别墅国贸路38号 dishes ¥15-128; h11am-midnight)
This moody, lantern-lit villa down an alley in Guómào is where you’ll find Hǎikǒu’s cool kids sampling fiery Chóngqìng-style street food (refined to yuppie standards). On the northwestern corner of Guomao Lu and Yusha Lu, head down the lane in between the Soho club and an apartment tower and look for the crowd. There’s a picture menu.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Guómào is the newest downtown area, with the flashiest nightlife. Along Hadian 5 Xilu, in front of the south gate of Hǎinán University, you’ll find bars popular with students.
Small stands selling lemon drinks and teas are plentiful. Liángchá (cool tea) is a little medicinal in taste but locals swear it helps cool the body’s fires on a hot day.
Small CafeCAFE
(蓝庭咖啡小馆, Lántíng Kāfēi Xiǎoguǎn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 62 Zhongshan Lu, 中山路62号 coffee ¥18; h10am-midnight; W)
You have your pick of charming cafes along Old Town’s pedestrian street, but this one gets our vote thanks to the garden patio out back.
Drunk BearBAR
(百熊酒馆, Báixióng Jiǔguǎn 11 Tea Plaza, Guomao Beilu, 国贸北路大坤茶叶园11号 h8pm-late)
With half a dozen local craft brews on tap, this Guómào watering hole is naturally a favourite expat hang-out.
8Information
Cafes and fast-food restaurants around town have free wi-fi.
Bank of ChinaBANK
(中国银行, Zhōngguó Yínháng GOOGLE MAP ; 29-31 Datong Lu, 大同路29-31号 h9am-5pm, ATM 24hr)
Changes money and travellers cheques. ATMs are plentiful around town.
China PostPOST
(中国邮政, Zhōngguó Yóuzhèng GOOGLE MAP ; 16 Jiefang Xilu, 解放西路16号 h8am-6pm)
VISAS
Travellers from countries with diplomatic relations with C
hina – except for the US and France – may apply for a visa on arrival at the airport in Hǎikǒu or Sānyà for stays of up to 15 days. You must be arriving on an international flight (so if you transfer in-country you are not eligible). However, keep in mind that the same arbitrary approval process applies here and in rare cases travellers have been rejected. Some travellers also report not being able to board flights as ground crew may not be aware of the latest visa regulations.
8Getting There & Away
Air
Hǎikǒu’s Měilán Airport (美兰国际机场; Měilán Guójì Jīchǎng www.mlairport.com), 25km to the east of town, is well connected to most of China’s major cities, including Hong Kong and Macau, with international flights to Bangkok, Singapore, Kuala Lumpur and Taipei. Low-season one-way domestic fares are cheap. Destinations include Běijīng, Guǎngzhōu and Shànghǎi.
Bus
Long-distance buses to the mainland depart from Xiùyīng Harbour Station (海口秀英港客运站; Hǎikǒu Xiùyīnggǎng Kèyùn Zhàn 102 Binhai Dadao; 滨海大道102号 ), far to the west of town. To get here, take bus 37 (30 minutes) to the Marine Bureau (海事局站; Hǎi Shìjú Zhàn; ¥2) stop. A taxi costs about ¥30 from downtown.
Destinations from Xiùyīng Harbour Station include:
AGuǎngzhōu ¥352, 12 hours, hourly
AGuìlín ¥411, 13 hours, 3.30pm
ANànníng ¥280, 10 hours, hourly (11am to 9pm)
Buses from the south bus station (汽车南站 32 Nanhai Dadao; 南海大道32号 ), 3km south of downtown, go to:
AQióngzhōng ¥35, 2½ hours via the central highway, half-hourly
Buses from the east bus station (汽车东站 148 Haifu Lu; 海府路148号 ),1.5km south of downtown, go to:
AQiónghǎi ¥30, 1½ hours, every 20 minutes
AWénchāng ¥20, 1½ hours, every 15 minutes
ASānyà ¥80, 3½ hours, 10 daily
Train
Hǎikǒu Railway Station (海口火车站; Hǎikǒu Huǒchēzhàn ), the main train station, is in the northwest corner of the city. Bus 37 (¥2) connects the train station and the Clock Tower bus stop; for destinations in the southern part of the city, take bus 40 (¥2).
There are five trains daily to/from Guǎngzhōu (hard/soft sleeper ¥267/418, 12 hours). Buy tickets (¥5 service fee) at the train station or from the dedicated counter at China Southern Airlines (中国南方航空; Zhōngguó Nánfāng Hángkōng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 9 Haixiu Donglu; 海秀东路9号).
High-Speed Train
High-speed trains running down the east coast to Sānyà mostly start from Hǎikǒu East Railway Station (海口东站; Hǎikǒu Dōngzhàn ), in the southeast corner of the city. Trains down the west coast depart from Hǎikǒu Railway Station, on the western side.
AQiónghǎi ¥34, 50 minutes, hourly
ASānyà ¥84, two hours, hourly
AWànníng ¥49, 1½ hours, hourly
8Getting Around
To/From the Airport
An airport shuttle bus (¥20, half-hourly) runs to/from Hǎinán Mínháng Bīnguǎn in downtown. A taxi costs around ¥80 to downtown; negotiate the price. The high-speed rail also has a stop at the airport; this train will take you to the Hǎikǒu East Railway Station.
Bus
Both Hǎikǒu’s city centre and Hǎidiàn Island are easy to get around on foot. The bus system (¥1 to ¥2) is decent, though it often takes transfers to get around. Key bus hubs include Clock Tower (钟楼; Zhōng Lóu GOOGLE MAP ) and Evergreen Park (万绿园; Wànlǜyuán), both serviced by the handy bus 37. Tourist buses depart from near the entrance to Báishāmén Park (白沙门) on the northern end of Hǎidiàn Island.
Taxi
Taxis charge ¥10 for the first 3km. They’re easy to spot, but difficult to catch on large roads because of roadside barriers.
Around Hǎikǒu
1Sights
Hǎikǒu Volcanic Cluster GeoparkVOLCANO
(雷琼世界地质公园, Léiqióng Shìjiè Dìzhì Gōngyuán Shíshān Town, 石山镇 admission ¥60; h8.30am-6pm)
While this geopark encompasses about 108 sq km of rural countryside, the main attraction here is a corny tourist park surrounding a (genuinely cool) extinct volcano cone. Make haste past the snack stands and gift kiosks to descend the stairs winding down into the lushly vegetated crater, which feels more like a cave. Then climb back up for luscious views of the countryside all the way to the sea.
The geopark entrance is about 18km west of Hǎikǒu. The easiest way to get here is to take tourist bus 1 (¥30, 45 minutes, 8.30am and 12.30pm) from Báishāmén Park. The return bus leaves three hours later. A taxi to the park costs ¥60.
Měi Shè VillageHISTORIC SITE
(美社村, Měi Shè Cūn )
Photogenic Měi Shè was built out of the rough grey volcanic stone so prevalent in this part of Hǎinán. Wander the quiet back alleys and gawp at the castle-like five-storey gun tower in the town centre. It was built in the early 20th century to protect the village from bandits. The village is a 20-minute walk from the Hǎikǒu Volcanic Cluster Geopark entrance (or a ¥60 taxi ride from Hǎikǒu).
There is a network of small roads that run from Měi Shè to other villages, making this an ideal area for cycling.
Tónggǔ LǐngMOUNTAIN
(铜鼓岭, Bronze Drum Ridge )
Tónggǔ Lǐng is famous locally for its great views up and down the coast from the top, especially of the moon-shaped beach at Yuè Liàng Wān’s beach. It’s 3km to the top; there’s a shuttle bus (¥20 round trip, 9am to 6pm) or you can hike along the road (though this is not so pleasant with the buses going up and down).
To get to Tónggǔ Lǐng, take a bus from Hǎikǒu’s east bus station to Dōngjiāo (¥23, 1½ hours, five daily), and then transfer to a minibus bound for Lónglóu (龙楼镇; ¥6, 30 minutes, hourly). At the Lónglóu bus stop, sānlúnchē (pedicab) drivers wait to take tourists the last 8km to the ridge; expect to pay about ¥20. Alternatively, you can cycle here from Dōngjiāo Yēlín in about two hours.
WǔZHǐSHāN
Wǔzhǐshān (五指山; Five Finger Mountain), the highest peak in the land, rises 1867m out of the centre of Hǎinán. It is the symbol of the island and is naturally steeped in local lore: the five peaks, for example, are said to represent the Li people’s five most powerful gods. It is also the source of the Wànquán (万泉河) and Chānghuà (昌化江) rivers and part of the Wǔzhǐshān National Nature Reserve, a rich, threatened ecosystem containing 6.5% of all vascular plant species in China.
At the time of research, local authorities were making it very hard for foreign travellers to visit Wǔzhǐshān. You must apply for a permit through a licensed travel agency at least a week in advance – though your permit may be rejected or remain pending for no reason (as ours was) – and be accompanied by a guide. Should you receive permission and decide to climb, know that it is pretty much an all-day event to reach the summit and back. Most people can reach the top of the first finger (the second is highest) in three hours. The path is clear but very steep and includes a number of ladder climbs further up. Coming down is not much faster than going up, so give yourself six to eight hours. Be sure to bring plenty of water, as there are no amenities on the mountain.
Wǔzhǐshān sits about 4km from the village of Shuǐmǎn (水满), 30km northeast of Wǔzhǐshān City. You’ll need to first take a bus to Wǔzhǐshān City from Bǎotíng (¥10, 40 minutes, hourly), Hǎikǒu (¥80, four hours, seven daily) or Sānyà (¥28, 1½ hours, frequent) and then transfer to a local bus to Shuǐmǎn (¥10, one hour, hourly 7.30am to 5.30pm). Buy your ticket on the bus, which leaves across the street from the Wǔzhǐshān City bus station, 50m to the right. Make sure to get a bus going to Shuǐmǎn via Nánshèng. In Shuǐmǎn, motorcycle taxis will take you the remaining 4km for ¥15. The last bus back to Wǔzhǐshān leaves Shuǐmǎn around 5.30pm.
If you need to overnight in Shuǐmǎn, Shuǐmǎn Hotel (水满园酒店; Shuǐmǎn Yuán Jǐudiàn %0898 8655 0333; Shuǐmǎn Town; 水满乡 tw ¥688; aW), near to the
bus stop and overlooking rice paddies and the Li temple, is a good bet.
Central Highlands
%0898
Hǎinán’s reputation rests on its tropical beaches, but for many travellers it’s in this region of dark-green mountains and terraced rice-growing valleys that they make genuine contact with the island’s culture. Bǎotíng, with its rainforest and hot springs, is the most accessible destination. With more time, and especially if you’re on two wheels, you can head to Wǔzhǐshān, Qióngzhōng and their surrounding villages.
Until recently, Han Chinese had left almost no footprint here, and even today visible signs of Chinese culture, such as temples or shrines, are very rarely seen. Instead, the region is predominantly Li and Miao – minority ethnic groups who have lived a relatively primitive subsistence existence for most of their time on the island. Indeed, groups of Li living as hunter-gatherers were found in the mountainous interior of Hǎinán as recently as the 1930s. Today they are by far the poorest people on Hǎinán.
The central highlands have a good range of accommodation, from luxurious rainforest resorts to village guesthouses. Transport hubs like Wǔzhǐshān City have business hotels around the bus station if you find yourself stuck.
One of the joys of visiting the highlands is getting to feast on wild mountain vegetables (野菜; yěcài) and free-range duck and pork. On the sidewalks, Li women sell zhú tǒng fǎn (rice baked in fragrant bamboo stalks; ¥10).
Lonely Planet China Page 121