Lonely Planet China

by Lonely Planet

  Zhèngzōng Lánzhōu LāmiànNOODLES$

  (正宗兰州拉面, Authentic Lanzhou Noodles 25 Sanyuesan Dadao, 三月三大道25号, Wǔzhǐshān City dishes from ¥15; h6.30am-10pm)

  This Hui Muslim restaurant sells a wide range of cheap but excellent noodle and lamb dishes. Try the gānbànmiàn (干伴面; ¥15), a kind of stir-fried spaghetti bolognese with hand-pulled noodles.

  Shuǐmǎn YìjiāHAINAN$$

  (水满一家 Shuǐmǎn Town, 水满乡 dishes ¥38-138; h8am-10pm)

  Steps from where the bus will let you off in Shuǐmǎn Town (look for the yellow sign), this is the best place in town for local food. Dishes to try include Shuǐmǎn yā (水满鸭; local Shuǐmǎn duck) and wǔjiǎo zhū (五脚猪; ‘five-foot pig’ – local slang for the pigs that root around the villages).

  8Getting There & Away

  Travelling in the region is easy, as a decent bus system links major and minor towns. Key transit hubs include Wǔzhǐshān and Qióngzhōng.

  THE LI & THE MIAO

  The Li, who today number over one million and can only be found on Hǎinán, were the island’s first-known settlers, likely immigrating from southern China several thousand years ago. The Li were followed by the Miao (H’mong), who can also be found across stretches of northern Vietnam, Laos and Thailand; their arrival pushed the Li into the central highlands. When Han settlers arrived in big numbers during the Qing dynasty, they pushed the Miao, who in turn pushed the Li even further into the mountains.

  Today both populations occupy some of the most rugged terrain on the island, in the forested areas covering the Límǔlǐng Shān (Mother of the Li Mountain) range that stretches down the centre of the island. Since 1987, several counties in the central highlands have been designated as Li and Miao autonomous regions, which afford the minority groups a degree of independent governance.

  Visitors to the central highlands will see visual markers of Li culture, including architecture adorned with traditional geometric symbols and children in school uniforms hemmed with colourful embroidery.

  Bǎotíng 保亭

  %0898 / Pop 170,000

  Bǎotíng (保亭) is the gateway to the Qī Xiān Lǐng Hot Spring Forest Park (七仙岭温泉国家森林公园; Qī Xiān Lǐng Wēnquán Guójiā Sēnlín Gōngyuán), where the main attraction is the ridge of jagged, spear-like crags that make up Seven Fairy Mountain. It’s a well-developed town with a large population of Li and Miao. The mountain entrance and hot-springs area are 8km out of town. The area around the bus station has some amenities, including restaurants and an ATM.

  There are frequent buses to Bǎotíng’s main bus station from Sānyà (¥20, 1½ hours).

  Seven Fairy MountainMOUNTAIN

  (七仙岭, Qī Xiān Lǐng ¥48; hticket office 7.30am-5.30pm)

  Seven Fairy Mountain, named for its dramatic seven pinnacles, is found inside Qī Xiān Lǐng Hot Spring Forest Park. It’s a three-hour return trip to the top of the first point along a stepped path through a dense, healthy rainforest buzzing with bird and insect life. The final 100m climb to the peak runs up a pitted slope with chains and railings in place to aid your near-vertical climb. The views from the top are worth the effort. Purchase tickets at the excessively large park administration building at the entrance.

  From Bǎotíng’s bus station, you can take bus 1 (¥1, 10 minutes) to Xiàn Zhèng Fǔ (县政府) and then transfer to bus 2 (¥3, 15 minutes) to the entrance of the park, though it’s easier to catch a motorcycle taxi (¥30). Make sure not to catch a motorcycle with a side car as they lack the power to make it the last 4km from the hot springs area up to the trailhead.

  There’s an ever-growing number of hot-spring resorts in the forest, which have a certain appeal after hiking. Otherwise, it’s best to visit as a day trip from Sānyà as accommodation is hard to find in town.

  Narada ResortRESORT$$$

  (君澜度假酒店, Jūnlán Dùjià Jiǔdiàn %0898 8388 8888; www.naradahotels.com; Qī Xiān Lǐng Hot Spring Forest Park; r from ¥2488; paWs)

  At the foot of Seven Fairy Mountain, the Narada is an elegant surprise in the middle of the peaceful (though increasingly developed) rainforest. The 222 bright, airy rooms are done up in wood with ethnic minority art; the manicured grounds are spotted with fruit trees; and the bathtubs, behind bamboo screens on the verandah, are filled with natural hot-spring water.

  CYCLING HǎINáN

  Hǎinán is a great destination for recreational touring. You’re rarely more than an hour from a village with food and water, and never more than a few hours from a town with a decent hotel. At the same time, you’ll find most of your riding is out in nature or through pretty farming valleys, not urban sprawl. Roads, even to minor villages, are generally in excellent condition (and new ones are being created regularly). Preparation time for a tour can be minimal.

  AROUND HǎIKǒU

  A network of narrow, paved lanes connect the picturesque villages around the Hǎikǒu Volcanic Cluster Geopark, which are perfect for a day or afternoon trip. Velo China runs short, one- to three-hour cycling tours (free with the cost of bicycle rental, which starts at ¥80) that leave daily at 9am and 3pm from in front of the Mission Hills Resort; for reservations call 0898 6868 3888.

  EAST COAST

  The most popular of the multiday routes, because it is largely flat, runs from Hǎikǒu to Sānyà along the eastern highway, covering about 300km. The main road runs somewhat inland, though, so if you want to strike out along the coast, you’ll need a good map to follow the small roads that run to the seaside villages.

  CENTRAL HIGHLANDS

  This is the most spectacular ride, if you have the stamina for it. The central highway, which runs 300km from Hǎikǒu to Sānyà via Wǔzhǐshān, has a good shoulder most of the way, and allows for endless side trips up small country roads and stops in tiny villages.

  After a day riding through the lush Túnchāng County valley, the route climbs into some fine hill country around Shíyùn (什运). The village, 32km southwest of Qióngzhōng, sits on a grassy shelf above a river and is worth a look around. Local cyclists recommend the 42km side trip from here up a wooded canyon to Báishā (白沙). The major towns in this area are Túnchāng (屯昌) and Qióngzhōng (琼中), the latter a major settlement for the Miao.

  After Shíyùn you can look forward to a long climb (at least 10km), followed by a long fast descent into Wǔzhǐshān. If you are continuing on to Sānyà, the road is one long, steep downhill after the turn-off to Bǎotíng.

  BICYCLE RENTAL

  If you’re not bringing your own wheels, you can rent decent-quality mountain bikes at Hǎikǒu Banana Youth Hostel from ¥30 a day. The hostel’s website has detailed information on cycling Hǎinán. Velo China also rents mountain and touring bicycles (from ¥80/500 per day/week) and can arrange custom tours with English-speaking guides. Six-day tours, which include hotel accommodation, bicycle rental and maintenance, picnic lunch and insurance, start at ¥2860 per person person.

  MAPS

  Road maps are available at Xīnhuá Bookstore (新华书店; Xīnhuá Shūdiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 10 Jiefang Xilu; 解放西路10号 h9am-10pm) in Hǎikǒu. It’s worth noting that people in Hǎinán call bikes dānchē. Buses will accept bicycles in the hold but trains require you to box them up.

  The East Coast

  %0898

  Hǎinán’s east coast is a series of spectacular palm-lined beaches, long bays and headlands, most of which are, unfortunately, not usually visible from the main roads, not even at bicycle level. With the best beaches developed or being developed, there is little reason to make a special trip out here (Bó’áo being the exception) unless you are surfing or wish to stay at a resort. Biking or motorcycling is another story, however, as there are endless small villages and rural roads to explore and even a few near-deserted bays.

  In the past, the east coast was the centre of Han settlement. If you are coming from the highlands you will start to notice temples, grave sites, shrines and other signs of Chinese
culture dotting the landscape.

  We’ve heard reports of travellers camping on the undeveloped beaches with no trouble. There are camping facilities at Dà Huā Jiǎo (大花角), a pretty beach with bobbing fishing boats at the end of the outstretched finger of land due east of Wànníng.

  Frequent high-speed trains and buses run down the eastern side of the island, stopping at Qiónghǎi (for Bó’áo), Wànníng (for Rì Yuè Bay) and Língshuǐ.

  Note that the eastern highway runs quite a bit inland; if you’re keen to cycle along the coast, you’ll need a good map to navigate the tiny roads that flit in and out of the waterfront towns.

  Bó'áo 博鳌

  %0898 / Pop 29,000

  For cyclists, Bó’áo (博鳌) is a natural stop along the coast. For all travellers, it’s an unpretentious (though rapidly developing) beach town surrounded by pretty countryside. Just to the west are small villages of stone and brick buildings where locals dry rice in the middle of the lanes, and burn incense for their local folk deities in small shrines.

  Officially Bó’áo is starting to cover a large area, but the ‘downtown’ blocks, where most travellers both stay and eat, are tiny. The beach is a five-minute walk away.

  Avoid visiting during, or the week before, the Bó’áo Forum for Asia (BFA), an annual April meet-up of top-level officials, academics and economists exclusively from the Asia region. The town is pretty much closed off under the scrutiny of high-level security (there are even warships in the harbour).

  1Sights & Activities

  A network of small lanes and boardwalks makes the surrounding villages easily accessible to cyclists and strollers. Some places to aim for are Dà Lù Pō Village (大路坡村; Dà Lù Pō Cūn) and Nánqiáng Village (南强村; Nánqiáng Cūn) off the main road about 2km west of the downtown junction.

  Cai Family Former ResidenceHISTORIC SITE

  (蔡家宅, Càijiā Zhái Liú Kè Cùn, 留客村 h9am-5pm)F

  This sprawling, and pleasantly decaying, mansion was built in 1934 by several brothers who made their fortune in the Indonesian rubber industry. The building was abandoned in 1937 after the Japanese invaded Hǎinán, and later became a guerrilla outpost for resistance fighters. In 2006 it was declared a heritage site and these days you can wander around inside for a look if the caretaker is about.

  It’s about 5km from town. Take a sānlúnchē (三路车; pedicab; ¥60 round trip) or make an afternoon bike ride out of it: head west out of town and when the road ends at a junction turn left (south) and cross two long bridges. After crossing the second bridge, head right at the English sign. In a couple of blocks stay left and enjoy a sumptuous ride through green fields and collections of handsome old and new houses alongside the road.

  Bó’áo BayBEACH

  (博鳌湾, Bó’áo Wān )

  Bó’áo’s beach is a long, narrow strip of golden sand, just a few hundred metres east of the town’s main road. If you plan to swim, head at least 500m north to avoid dangerous currents. The best stretches are even further north, particularly around the Asia Bay resort hotel.

  SāNYUèSāN FESTIVAL

  SānyuèsānCULTURAL

  (三月三, March 3rd Festival )

  Held on the third day of the third (lunar) month, this is the biggest festival for Hǎinán’s native Li people. Traditional dancing and singing contests take place in town and villages across the central highlands.

  4Sleeping

  Bó’áo has resorts that looked like they beamed in from Dubai and a growing number of hostels, but nothing in between. Note that hostels often book out completely with cycling tours; you’ll want to book in advance.

  Bó’áo 517 YìzhànGUESTHOUSE$

  (博鳌517驿站 %133 7991 7175; www.hn517.cn; 22 Dongning Lu, 东宁路22号 d ¥90; W)

  Some travellers will find the rooms at tiny Bó’áo 517 Yìzhàn, occupying a traditional stone house just minutes from the main town junction and the beach, charming. (Those who find them dark and cramped can bunk at the modern, utilitarian sister hostel down the road.) There are just three rooms set in a courtyard with a shared bathroom and laundry room. Call ahead as there’s no reception.

  Bó’áo Golden Coast Hot Spring HotelRESORT$$$

  (琼海博鳌金海岸温泉大酒店, Qiónghǎi Bó'áo Jīnhǎi'àn Wēnquán Dàjiǔdiàn %0898 6277 8888; www.boao-golden.com.cn; 8 Jinhai’an Dadao, 金海岸大道8号 r from ¥1380; paWs)

  One of the more classically resort-like options in town, this sprawling complex has more than 300 rooms, an enormous pool, manicured lawns, and several restaurants and bars. In the off-season (most of the year), when discounts upwards of 50% are available, it’s great value.

  5Eating

  Bó’áo has a good spread of eating options. Around 4pm each day look for stalls on either side of Haibin Lu near the Hainan Bank selling succulent Jiājī duck (加积鸭; Jiājī yā; ¥10 for a leg), a Hǎinán speciality. Don’t be tardy as it sells out quickly. On the main streets there are grocery stores and fruit stands.

  oSea StorySEAFOOD, CAFE$$

  (海的故事, Hǎide Gùshì dishes ¥28-138; h8am-late; W)

  Bó’áo’s most famous restaurant is surprisingly un-flashy, cobbled together from driftwood and with a courtyard full of weathered old fishing junks. The kitchen turns out excellent local and Southeast Asian dishes (think barbecued spare ribs and curried prawns). Outside, the breezy, seaside deck is an ideal spot for cocktails. Sea Story is a 15-minute walk north along the beach path.

  Áogōng Hǎixiān ChéngSEAFOOD$$

  (鳌宫海鲜城 %0898 6277 9699; meals around ¥100; h11am-9pm)

  Come see what the local fishing boats haul in, and then splash out on a spread of fresh seafood. Pick and choose from among the tanks, which helpfully have prices listed – so you know how much that giant lobster will cost you. The ‘Legendary Turtle’ (as the name translates) is a 30-minute walk north along the beach road, from the town junction.

  6Drinking & Nightlife

  The beach road leading north from downtown has been redeveloped into a ‘Seaside Bar Street’ lined with open-air bars and cafes, which are lit up in the evenings.

  Lǎo Wood Coffee Rest AreaCAFE

  (老房子, Lǎo Fángzi drinks from ¥20; h10am-10pm; W)

  The owner of this cafe, a local dancer and art administrator, literally had a traditional old stone house taken apart and reassembled on Bó’áo’s coastal path to make his dream of opening a stylish cafe come true. Inside is chock-full of antiques and objets d’art, while in front is a sculpture-filled garden dotted with cafe tables.

  8Information

  Bank of ChinaBANK

  (中国银行, Zhōngguó Yínháng 99 Haibin Lu, 海滨路99号 )

  Has an ATM. It’s about 200m north of the main intersection near ABC Bank.

  Wàn Yuè Travel AgencyTICKET OFFICE

  (万悦旅行社, Wàn Yuè Lǚxíngshè 60-3 Haibin Lu, 海滨路60-3号 h7.30am-10pm)

  Sells high-speed train tickets. It’s about 200m north of the main intersection, across from an ABC Bank.

  8Getting There & Away

  From Hǎikǒu’s east bus station, catch a bus to the main station in Qiónghǎi (琼海; ¥30, 1½ hours, every 20 minutes) then cross the street to the Kentucky Fried Chicken side, and look for the bus stop just down the road to the left. Catch bus 2 to Bó’áo (¥6, 30 minutes, frequent). Passengers get dropped off at the main junction in Bó’áo. All transport from Bó’áo passes through Qiónghǎi.

  The nearest train station to Bó’áo is actually Qiónghǎi (not Bó’áo Station); from there you’ll need to catch a taxi (¥40) the rest of the way to town. Alternatively, catch bus 6 or 7 (¥2) outside the train station to Qiónghǎi East Bus Station (琼海东站) and then take bus 2 the rest of the way.

  AHǎikǒu ¥34, 50 minutes, hourly

  ASānyà ¥48.50, 70 minutes, hourly

  8Getting Around

  There are a handful of shops around town renting bicycles (¥50 per day), though it’s common
for tour groups to have reserved all the stock in advance.

  Shíméi Bay & Rì Yuè Bay 石梅湾、日月湾

  This is a wild, rocky stretch of coastline. Shíméi Bay (石梅湾; Shíméi Wān) is now lined with resorts, but Rì Yuè Bay (日月湾; Rì Yuè Wān; Sun & Moon Bay), further south, is still largely undeveloped and is popular with local surfers. Both bays have strong currents and aren’t considered safe for casual swimmers.

  Rì Yuè BayBEACH

  (日月湾, Rì Yuè Wān; Sun & Moon Bay )

  If you like your ocean slate-blue and reckless (and largely resort free), Rì Yuè Bay is for you. Colour is provided by local surfers rather than the usual flotilla of inflatable children’s toys. The beachside restaurant (8am to 10pm) run by the friendly people at Surfing Hǎinán (冲浪海南; Chōnglàng Hǎinán %0898 6225 4626; www.surfinghainan.com; Rì Yuè Bay; 日月湾 board/wetsuit rental per day ¥100/50; h8am-7.30pm) is a good place to hangout.

  Rì Yuè Bay has just one combined hotel and hostel, which is unappealing. Camping is an option: Surfing Hǎinán rents tents and sleeping bags.

  There are few amenities on the beaches along this stretch of coast that aren’t attached to resorts.