Guìlín's main bus station also has buses to Dàzhài and Lóngjǐ (Píng’ān; ¥50, three hours, 8.30am, 9am and 2pm). Renting a car from Guìlín to here is about ¥400.
Six buses run daily between Lóngshèng and Píng’ān (¥12, one hour, 7.30am, 9am, 11am, 1pm, 3pm and 5pm). Buses (¥10, 1½ hours, 8am to 5pm) also run direct hourly between Lóngshèng and Dàzhài.
To continue to Sānjiāng, catch a bus (¥22, regular) from Lóngshèng bus station. The bus runs scenically along the river to Sānjiāng.
Sānjiāng 三江
%0772 / Pop 367,707
Riverside Sānjiāng (三江) town is a rather nondescript place in itself, but is a convenient springboard to the ethereal Dong villages and their architectural wonders in Chéngyángqiáo Scenic Area.
The town is best treated as an arrival, overnighting and departure point, with high-speed trains to Guìlín and slower trains north into Húnán province.
oDrum TowersTOWER
(鼓楼; Gǔlóu )
A drum tower resembles a flamboyant, multieaved pagoda plonked on a rectangular pavilion; many are found in Dòng villages in the region. The taller ones are built entirely of cedar. Donate a few coins as you enter, and look up at the receding beams and the scalelike tiles. Some towers have a fire pit. Once the social and religious heart of the village, they're now colonised by old men watching TV and playing ping pong.
1Sights
oChéngyáng Wind & Rain BridgeBRIDGE
(程阳桥; Chéngyángqiáo 林溪; Línxī ¥80, incl with Chéngyángqiáo Scenic Area admission)
Around 18km north of Sānjiāng, the grandest of over 100 nail-less wind-and-rain bridges in the area, this photogenic black-and-white structure (78m) was built from cedar and stone over 12 years in the early 1900s. It features towers with upturned eaves, pavilions where people gather to socialise or take shelter from the elements, and a sweeping corridor with handrails and benches.
Chéngyángqiáo Scenic AreaAREA
(程阳桥景区; Chéngyángqiáo Jǐngqū ¥80)
Beyond the standout Chéngyáng Wind & Rain Bridge, the best way to take in this scenic area's natural and human-made beauty is by walking among the fields. Each hamlet has a distinctive-looking drum tower and a stage on which tables are set up for mah-jong games. The homes are simple one- or two-storey cabins made of chocolate-toned cedar bark that exude an ancient grace evocative of Kyoto. The Dong are known for their exquisite carpentry and each home is a celebration of that skill.
4Sleeping & Eating
Most visitors aim to spend the night near the Chéngyáng Wind & Rain Bridge. Sānjiāng itself has many hotels, especially along Furong Lu (芙蓉路), not far from the east bus station, but the town is not a particularly appealing place. It is handy, however, if you only want to take a day trip to the bridge.
Dòng Village HotelINN$$
(程阳桥侗家宾馆; Chéngyángqiáo Dòngjiā Bīnguǎn %0772 858 2421; www.donghotel.com; Chéngyángqiáo; 程阳桥 d/tr ¥200/250; naW)
This popular inn run by a friendly host, English-speaking Michael Yang, is excellently located right by the bridge. Rooms, connected by a creaking staircase, come with balconies, air-con and bathrooms. Pray for quiet neighbours – the walls are very thin. It's immediately on your left after the bridge crossing and has been a staple of visitors for years.
Sanjiang HotelHOTEL$$
(三江饭店; Sānjiāng Fàndiàn Furong Lu; 芙蓉路 d ¥388-518, tr/ste ¥508/888; aW)
Conveniently located in-between the east and west bus stations, this reasonably glossy three-star hotel has very clean, spacious and comfortable rooms. Staff are not that used to dealing with foreigners, but are friendly. The hotel has a lift and in-room wi-fi. In the off season, you can usually get a room for around ¥130.
Lánzhōu LāmiànNOODLES$
(兰州拉面 46 Furong Lu; 芙蓉路46号 noodles from ¥7; h6.30am-3am)
This really popular noodle spot is often full of locals feasting on steaming bowls of beef noodles (牛肉拉面; niúròu lāmiàn); warm, filling and value for money. It's on the far side of the road from the Sānjiāng Hotel, towards the higher, southern end.
8Information
With no Bank of China in town, there is nowhere to change money in Sānjiāng, so make sure you bring enough cash. As there is also nowhere to change money at the Lóngjǐ Rice Terraces, and many travellers will be coming from that direction, make sure you have enough money changed either in Guìlín or elsewhere.
ICBCBANK
(工商银行; Gōngshāng Yínháng 22 Dongxiang Dadao; 侗乡大道22号 )
ICBC cannot change money, but there is a 24-hour ATM.
Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION
(旅游服务中心; Lǚyóu Fúwù Zhōngxīn %0772 861 6567; 19 Dongxiang Dadao; 侗乡大道19号 h8am-6pm)
English-language skills are not strong here, but the office is well-equipped and helpful.
8Getting There & Away
Bus
For Chéngyáng Bridge, take the half-hourly bus bound for Línxī (林溪) from Sānjiāng west bus station (¥31, 30 minutes, 7.30am to 5.30pm). If you miss the last bus, private minivans to Línxī wait on the main road outside the west bus station. The fare is the same but they won’t leave until they’re full.
Most buses go to/from Sānjiāng’s east bus station (河东车站; hédōng chēzhàn), but buses to Chéngyáng Bridge go from the west bus station (河西车站; héxī chēzhàn), a 10-minute walk (about 500m, or a ¥4 pedicab ride) across the river. To reach the west bus station, turn right from the east bus station, right again over the river and right once more after you cross the river.
Buses from the east bus station include:
ABěihǎi ¥200, nine hours, 9.50am
AChángshā ¥220, seven hours, 9pm
AGuìlín ¥60, five hours, 8.30am, 9.35am, 2pm and 3.10pm
ALóngshèng ¥22, three hours, regular 7am to 5.55pm
ANánníng ¥160, seven hours, three daily
Apart from regular buses to Línxī (for Chéngyáng Bridge), the west bus station also has one bus a day to Guǎngzhōu (¥170, 3.20pm) and four buses (¥26) a day to Tōngdào across the border in Húnán province.
Train
High-speed trains (¥27 to ¥34) from Guìlín arrive at and depart from the South Train Station (三江南站; Sānjiāng Nánzhàn), taking between 30 minutes and an hour, depending on which station in Guìlín they leave from. Heading north towards Húnán and Fènghuáng, you'll need to go to Sānjiāng Train Station (三江县站; Sānjiāng Xiàn Zhàn), a minute train station around 10km north of town. There is one train (¥36) per day from here to Huáihuà at 7.44pm. For a ¥5 commission, you can get train tickets from a booth opposite the Bird's Nest (三江侗乡鸟巢; Sānjiàng Dòngxiāng Niǎocháo) on Dongxiang Dadao, which is just beyond the tourist office.
8Getting Around
Bus 1 (¥1) links the east and west bus stations. Sānjiāng Train Station is a ¥10 minivan ride away; a taxi will cost ¥50. Taxi flagfall is ¥5.
Yángshuò 阳朔
%0773 / Pop 308,296
Yángshuò (阳朔) is one of China's gold-ticket draws. The once-peaceful settlement is now a collage of Chinese tour groups, bewildered Westerners, pole-dancing bars, construction and the glue that binds any tourist hot spot together – touts. Come evening, Xijie is all thumping music and bristling with selfie-sticks, but go up a few flights to a hotel rooftop bar and behold the ethereal beauty of the surrounding karsts, their peaks lit up by searchlights.
Outside of town, which is the reason you will be here, the karst landscape becomes even more surreal and other-worldly. Take a bamboo-raft ride or cycle through the dreamy valleys and you’ll see. And with the best hotels and guesthouses immersed in the surrounding countryside or plonked next to sublime river views, there is less reason to base yourself in Yángshuò town itself.
Yángshuò
1Top Sights
1Lí Riverside PathD1
1Sights
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2Bìlián PeakD2
3House of Xu BeihongD1
2Activities, Courses & Tours
4Bike AsiaC1
5Insight Adventures YángshuòD2
4Sleeping
6Green Forest HostelC1
7Leisure Inn YangshuoC1
8River View HotelD1
9Rosewood InnC2
10Yángshuò Senior Leader Youth HostelC1
5Eating
11Echo CafeC1
12Lèngwá Shǎnxī FēngwèiguǎnC1
13Lucy'sC1
River View Hotel RestaurantD1
6Drinking & Nightlife
14Mojo BarD1
Transport
15Dàcūnmén North StationD1
1Sights
The most accessible of Yángshuò's limestone peaks is Bìlián Peak (碧莲峰; Bìlián Fēng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ¥30), which overlooks Xijie and the Lí River, and can be climbed in half an hour. Look for the signboard that says 山水园. Yángshuò Park (阳朔公园; Yángshuò Gōngyuán) is a short walk west of Xijie and that's where you’ll find Man Hill (西郎山; Xīláng Shān) 'bowing' to Lady Hill (小姑山; Xiǎogū Shān). Don't overlook going for a walk along the Lí River, to get away from the crowds and see what coming to Yángshuò is all about.
oLí Riverside PathRIVER
(Líjiāng Jiāngbīn Dào; 漓江江滨道 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Binjiang Lu; 滨江路 )
When Xijie, the crowds and postcard hawkers get too much, head down the steps to the Lí River. Unfolding before you is a beautiful panorama of karst peaks, glittering river water and green bamboo. It's a stunning sight, and you can walk for a fair distance along the bank of the river, past folk practising taichi or playing with their children.
House of Xu BeihongMUSEUM
(徐悲鸿故居; Xú Bēihóng Gùjū MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 5 Xianqian Jie; 县前街5号 h8.30am-7pm)F
This small shrine to the 20th-century artist Xu Beihong (famed most chiefly for his pictures of galloping horses) – in a small one-storey house where he once lived – is simple and understated, but makes a charming cultural addition to town. Photographs and paintings all have (occasionally misfiring) English captions.
2Activities
Yángshuò is one of the hottest climbing destinations in Asia. There are eight major peaks in regular use, already providing more than 250 bolted climbs.
Bike AsiaCYCLING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0773 882 6521; www.bikeasia.com; 8 Guihua Lu; 桂花路8号 h8.30am-6.30pm)
Bike Asia has the best equipment and advice on trips. Bikes are ¥70 per day (deposit ¥300), including safety helmet and map. English-speaking guides (from ¥300 per day) are available.
Yángshuò Cooking SchoolCOOKING
(阳朔烹饪学校; Yángshuò Pēngrèn Xuéxiào %137 8843 7286; Cháolóng Village)
A classy cooking school worth checking out.
Insight Adventures YángshuòCLIMBING
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0773 881 1033; www.insight-adventures.com; 12 Furong Lu; 芙蓉路12号 h9am-9pm)
Offers local advice for experienced climbers and fully guided, bolted climbs for beginners. Prices start at ¥350 per person for a half-day climb. Kayaking and other activities are also organised.
4Sleeping
Yángshuò teems with hotels run by English-speaking staff, and virtually all provide wi-fi access. While the Xijie neighbourhood is stuffed with choices, quieter and more attractive lodgings lie on the outskirts.
For total peace and quiet and a glorious setting, opt for one of the accommodation choices in the Lí River area.
Green Forest HostelHOSTEL$
(瓦舍; Wǎshě MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0773 888 2686; [email protected]; 3rd fl, Zone A, Business St, Chéngzhòngchéng, Diecui Lu; 叠翠路, 城中城, 城南商业街A区3楼 dm/r ¥40/200; aiW)
This hostel's attractiveness is highlighted by the rundown building it's in. Rooms are painted white with colourful accents and have earth-toned furnishings; communal areas are flooded in natural light. From the bus station, turn right and walk along Diecui Lu, past Guihua Lu. At the junction with Chengzhong Lu, turn right and look for 99 Shopping Centre (99超市).
Yángshuò Senior Leader Youth HostelHOSTEL$
(阳朔老班长国际青年旅舍; Yángshuò Lǎobānzhǎng Guójì Qīngnián Lǚshè MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0773 691 9780; 36 Fuqian Xiang, Diecui Lu; 叠翠路，府前巷36号 dm ¥45-50, d & tw ¥180; naiW)
A conveniently located hostel with friendly staff, basic rooms and a large, comfy and inviting lobby with a gurgling water feature in the corner. Note that the doubles have squat loos, but the twins have Western loos. The hostel is not far from the Sunshine 100 (阳光100) and Huāróng Hotel (华荣大酒店). Step into the alley below the sign of Huāróng Hotel and you’ll reach the hostel.
Rosewood InnHOTEL$$
(玫瑰木宾馆; Méiguī Mù Bīnguǎn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0773 881 3918; www.yangshuorosewood.com; 95 Guihua Lu; 桂花路95号 s ¥228, d ¥258-288, tr ¥388-488, ste ¥388-488; aiW)
Right by the water in the centre of town, but tucked away and out of the action, this decent, quite charming and comfortable choice has wood-panelled rooms, many with balcony (the cheapest of each type are without balcony). Service is very professional and friendly, making it a cut above the rest. Breakfast is an extra ¥41.
River View HotelHOTEL$$
(望江楼酒店; Wàngjiāngloú Jiǔdiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0773 882 2688; www.riverview.com.cn; 11 Binjiang Lu; 滨江路11号 r ¥360-680; aiW)
If you prefer staying downtown but want to avoid the crowds, this good-value hotel is a decent bet. The balcony rooms overlook the Lí River and are somewhat old-fashioned but decent and the restaurant on the ground floor is a good choice. The street below can be noisy, so tell the friendly staff you'd like a room on the 3rd or 4th floor.
Leisure Inn YangshuoHOTEL$$$
(阳朔丽怡假日酒店; Yángshuò Lìyí Jiàrì Jiǔdiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0773 888 2999; www.leisureinn-yangshuo.com; 17 Diecui Lu; 叠翠路17号 r ¥1288-1388, ste ¥3288; naiW)
A good upmarket option in the Sunshine 100 (阳光100) block. The lobby has an outmoded, ethnic look but all 71 rooms feature subdued aesthetics and sleek modern lines that won a German design award. Do not be intimidated by the rack rates of the guest rooms – prices usually go down by half and include breakfast.
5Eating
Local specialities include tiánluóniàng (田螺酿; stuffed snails) and píjiǔ yú (啤酒鱼; beer fish). The fish with the least bones are jiàngǔyú (剑骨鱼) and the bigger and cheaper ones máogǔyú (毛骨鱼). Almost all restaurants have English menus.
You can find anything from wood-fired pizza and chicken korma to full English breakfasts, frankfurters served by German chefs and outposts of US fast-food empires.
oEcho CafeCAFE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 2 Fuqian Jie; 府前街2号 mains from ¥30; h9am-midnight)
This lovely cafe is tucked a long way from the tourist maelstrom, despite being just around the corner from Xijie. Very relaxing and tranquil, guitars and ukuleles lie around randomly, awaiting musical fingers. Sounds are (ballpark) classic jazz ballads. Staff are sweet and a small library rounds it off. There's a tasty and changing German/Western menu too, and breakfasts (9am to midday). Great cheesecake.
Lucy'sINTERNATIONAL$
(露茜; Lùxī MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 30 Guihua Lu; 桂花路30号 mains from ¥25; h7am-midnight; W)
With graffiti-splattered walls, Lucy's is quite an institution. Western and Chinese food are done with equal aplomb – aim for one of the terrace seats upstairs overlooking the tourist traffic below. There's shepherd's pie (¥40), beer fish (¥88), sizzling beef platter (¥40), tuna spaghetti (¥35) and more, plus full English brekkies (¥38).
Lèngwá Shǎnxī FēngwèiguǎnCHINESE$
(愣娃陕西风味馆 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 21 Diecui Lu; 叠翠路21号 mains from ¥10; h8am-11pm)
This small and simple Shǎnxī eatery specialises in the addictive ròujiāmó (肉夹馍;
flat-bread buns filled with beef or pork and peppers) and biángbiángmiàn (flat Shǎnxī noodles; the character for 'biang' is the most complicated in the Chinese language, and impossible to reproduce here). One ròujiāmó is ¥10 and two are almost a meal; a bowl of biángbiángmiàn starts at ¥19.
The friendly and affable owner is from Xī'ān and speaks English.
Dàcūnmén Night MarketMARKET$
(大村门夜市; Dàcūnmén Yèshì MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Pantao Lu; 蟠桃路 h5pm-late)
This night market is a culture-filled slice of nontourist Yángshuò life. Watch locals sniffing out the best spices, haggling over snails or tucking into a dog hotpot. It’s a 30-minute walk from Xijie. After you pass the petrol station on Pantao Lu, look for the fire station on the left, behind which is the night market.
Lonely Planet China Page 126