AChéngdū ¥127, five hours, three daily (7.50am, 9.30am and 3pm)
AChóngqìng ¥90, five hours, seven daily (6am to 5pm)
AGuìyáng ¥168, 5½ hours, three daily (7.30am, 9.30am and 3pm)
AJīnshāgōu ¥12, 1½ hours, hourly (6am to 5pm)
AShízhàngdòng ¥12, 1½ hours, nine daily (6.50am to 4.30pm)
ASìdònggōu ¥8, 30 minutes, hourly (7am to 5pm)
AZūnyì ¥120, four hours, four daily (6.50am to 11.15am)
Taxi flag fall is ¥4.
8Getting Around
As sights are scattered, consider hiring a taxi or minibus to help you scoop them all up. Expect to pay ¥300 to ¥400 per day, depending on your bargaining skills.
Yúnnán
Kunming
Around Kunming
Shilin
Heijng
Jianshu
Yuanyang Rice Terraces
Xiaguan
Weishan
Dal
Erhi Lake
Cang Shan
Xzhou
Nuodeng
Shaxi
Lijiang
Baisha
Shuhe Old Town
Tiger Leaping Gorge
Tiger Leaping Gorge to Baishutai
Lugu Lake
Shangri-la
Around Shangri-la
Deqin & Kawa Karpo
Liuku
Fugong
Bngzhongluo
Dulong Valley
Tengchong County
Ruili
Around Ruili
Jnghong
Around Jnghong
Yúnnán
Pop 47.13 million
Why Go?
Yúnnán (云南) is the most diverse province in all China, both in its extraordinary mix of peoples and in the splendour of its landscapes. That combination of superlative sights and many different ethnic groups has made Yúnnán the trendiest destination for China’s exploding domestic tourist industry.
More than half of the country’s minority groups reside here, providing a glimpse into China’s hugely varied mix of humanity. Then there’s the eye-catching contrasts of the land itself: dense jungle sliced by the Mekong River in the far south, soul-recharging glimpses of the sun over rice terraces in the southeastern regions, and snowcapped mountains as you edge towards Tibet.
With everything from laid-back villages and spa resorts to mountain treks and excellent cycling routes, Yúnnán appeals to all tastes. The roads are much better than they once were, so getting around is a breeze, but you’ll need time to see it all – whatever time you’ve set aside for Yúnnán, double it.
When to Go
AApr Prepare to get soaked in Xīshuāngbǎnnà during the Dai water-splashing festival.
AJul & Aug Head for the mountains and glaciers around Déqīn.
ADec & Jan Escape China’s winter chill and head for Kūnmíng, the city of eternal spring.
Best Places to Eat
A Duan's Kitchen
A Hungry Buddha
A Silent Holy Stones
A Tiāntiān Xiān
A Yán Quán Nóngjiā
A Yíng Jiāng Dǎi Wèi Yuán
Best Places to Sleep
A Blossom Hill Joyland
A Fùjiǎ Liúfāngyuàn
A Jade Emu
A Lost Garden Guesthouse
A Nanshan Arts Hotel
A Old Theatre Inn
Yúnnán Highlights
1 Yuányáng Rice Terraces Catching a magical sunrise or sunset at this awesome natural sight.
2 Tiger Leaping Gorge Testing your legs and lungs on Southwest China's most famous trek.
3 Déqīn Marvelling at the peaks (and glacier) on the Yúnnán-Tibet border.
4 Nuòdèng Stepping off the tourist trail in this delightful ancient village.
5 Xīshuāngbǎnnà Hiking through the jungle to minority villages.
6 Dàlǐ Kicking back in the cafes and bars of this laidback travellers favourite.
7 Lúgū Lake Lazing around the shores of this stunning lake.
8 Shāxī Seeing how time has stood still in this former Tea Horse Road oasis.
9 Bǐngzhōngluò Getting way off the map in this little-visited village in the remote Nù Jiāng Valley.
a Jiànshuǐ Enjoying classic architecture and great barbecue
History
With its remote location, harsh terrain and diverse ethnic make-up, Yúnnán was once considered a backward place populated by barbarians.
The early Han emperors held tentative imperial power over the southwest and forged southern Silk Road trade routes to Myanmar (Burma). From the 7th to mid-13th centuries, though, two independent kingdoms, the Nanzhao and Dàlǐ, ruled and dominated the trade routes from China to India and Myanmar. It wasn’t until the Mongols swept through that the southwest was integrated into the Chinese empire as Yúnnán. Even so, it remained an isolated frontier region, more closely aligned with Southeast Asia than China.
Today, Yúnnán is still a strategic jumping-off point to China’s neighbours. Despite its geographical isolation, much of the province has modernised rapidly in recent years.
4Sleeping
Yúnnán's busiest destinations – Kūnmíng, Dàlǐ, Lìjiāng and Shangri-la – offer the full range of accommodation options: hostels and guesthouses, budget and midrange places, and boutique and upmarket hotels. Smaller towns sometimes have guesthouses, but you are mostly reliant on standard budget and midrange hotels. In remote villages, homestays are the norm.
8Getting There & Away
Air
Kūnmíng's newish airport is the fourth-largest and seventh-busiest in China and has daily flights to most cities, as well as to an increasing amount of international destinations. Lìjiāng is also well-connected to a number of Chinese cities, while Dàlǐ and Jǐnghóng have many more flights than before.
Boat
One adventurous route out of Yúnnán in the past was to travel down the Mekong by cargo boat from Jǐnghóng to northern Thailand. Recent security threats have put off most passengers, but it is still possible to hitch a ride.
Bus
Expressways link Kūnmíng with Dàlǐ, east to Guìzhōu and Guǎngxī, southwest past Bǎoshān to Ruìlì and past Jǐnghóng to the Laos border. An expressway is also being built from Kūnmíng to Hēkǒu on the Vietnam border and beyond to Hanoi.
Train
Railways link Yúnnán to Guìzhōu, Guǎngxī, Sìchuān and beyond. In Yúnnán itself, development of the railways has been slower than elsewhere, due mostly to topographical interference. The main route for travellers is the line from Kūnmíng to Dàlǐ and Lìjiāng.
Central Yúnnán
Central Yúnnán covers a big swath of land, including key destinations such as the capital Kūnmíng, long-time travellers favourite Dàlī, and the surrounding Ěrhǎi Lake and mountains of Cāng Shān, as well as the legendary rice terraces of Yuányáng, perhaps Yúnnán’s finest photo opportunity. But central Yúnnán is also where you’ll find some of the region’s least visited highlights: the former Tea Horse Road caravan oasis of Shāxī, the ancient Bai village of Nuòdèng and the historic old towns of Jiànshuǐ and Wēishān, whose streets are lined with wooden houses, courtyard homes, temples and drum and bell towers.
With so many travellers passing through this region, the most visited places like Kūnmíng and Dàlī offer everything from hip hostels and boutique guesthouses to luxury hotels. But you’ll find a growing number of sleeping options even in less well-known places like Shāxī, or the villages set amid the rice terraces of Yuányáng. Expect to find family-run guesthouses, standard budget and midrange hotels and, occasionally, hostels in small towns and villages.
You’ll find all of Yúnnán’s wonderful food here, while Kūnmíng and Dàlī have an increasingly sophisticated choice of Western places too. Bai cuisine is on offer in Dàlī and the surrounding area, utilising strange and delicious vegetables, and is well worth trying, especially as it is
less spicy than some of Yúnnán’s other minority cooking. Jiànshuǐ is rightly famed for its superb barbecue and claypot dishes.
Kūnmíng and Xiàguān are the main transport hubs for central Yúnnán, both with airports, train stations and extensive bus connections. Kūnmíng’s airport is one of the biggest in China and has many international flights, as well as dozens of daily flights to regional destinations. You can also catch buses from Kūnmíng direct to Laos, or hop the train to Xiàguān for Dàlī. Xiàguān’s airport serves destinations in Yúnnán, while its four bus stations provide onward transport to the rest of central Yúnnán and beyond. Xiàguān’s train station has services northwest to Lìjiāng.
Kūnmíng 昆明
%0871 / Pop 3.27 million
Kūnmíng (昆明) has long been regarded as one of China’s most liveable cities. Known as the 'Spring City' for its equable climate, it remains a very pleasant place to kick back for a few days. For visitors who haven't succumbed to the laid-back attitude displayed by the locals, there are plenty of temples and national parks nearby (including the legendary Stone Forest) to keep you busy.
Of course, like other Chinese cities, the face of Kūnmíng is constantly changing and most old neighbourhoods have been torn down to make way for shopping malls. And the traffic jams that were unknown a few years ago, are now a regular occurrence. Yet, the essentially easy-going nature of Kūnmíng is, thankfully, still the same.
History
The region of Kūnmíng has been inhabited for 2000 years, but it wasn’t until WWII that the city really began to expand, when factories were established and refugees, fleeing from the Japanese, started to pour in from eastern China. As the end point of the famous Burma Road, a 1000km-long haul from Lashio in Myanmar, the city played a key role in the Sino-Japanese War. Renmin Xilu marks the tail end of the road.
After the war, the city returned to being overlooked and isolated. When China opened to the West, however, tourists noticed the province, and Kūnmíng used its gateway status to the rest of Yúnnán to become one of the loveliest cities in southwest China.
Now, as Běijīng looks to boost China's already significant economic presence in Southeast Asia, new transport routes south from Kūnmíng are being constructed. In particular, work has finally started on the long-touted high-speed railway designed to link Kūnmíng with Vientiane in Laos and Bangkok in Thailand. In the not-too-distant future, maybe as early as 2020, travellers will be able to jump on a train in Kūnmíng and arrive in Vientiane the same day.
Kūnmíng
1Sights
1Chuàng KùA5
2East PagodaD5
3Green Lake ParkB1
TCG NordicaA5
4West PagodaC5
Yuánshēng Art SpaceA5
5Yuántōng TempleD1
6Yúnnán Provincial MuseumB4
4Sleeping
7Green Lake HotelC2
8Hàntíng ExpressE5
9Hump HostelC5
10Kūnmíng Upland Youth HostelC2
Lost Garden GuesthouseC2
11Te Yun HotelA1
12Yúndà BīnguǎnB1
5Eating
131910 La Gare du SudD5
14As You LikeB1
15Hóng Dòu YuánB1
16HumdingerC3
17Park Bar & GrillB2
18Yíng Jiāng Dǎi Wèi YuánB1
6Drinking & Nightlife
19AleiC3
20MoondogB4
7Shopping
21Flower & Bird MarketC4
22Mandarin Books & CDsA1
1Sights
Yuántōng TempleBUDDHIST TEMPLE
(圆通寺; Yuántōng Sì MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Yuantong Jie; ¥6; h8am-5pm)
This temple is the largest Buddhist complex in Kūnmíng and a draw for both pilgrims and locals. It’s more than 1000 years old, but has been refurbished many times. To the rear, a hall has been added, with a statue of Sakyamuni, a gift from Thailand’s king.
Green Lake ParkPARK
(翠湖公园; Cuìhú Gōngyuán MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Cuihu Nanlu; h6am-10pm)
Come here to people-watch, practise taichi or just hang with the locals and stroll. The roads along the park are lined with wannabe trendy cafes, teahouses and shops. In November, everyone in the city awaits the return of the local favourites, red-beaked seagulls; it’s a treat watching people, er, ‘flock’ to the park when the first one shows up.
Chuàng KùGALLERY
(创库艺术主题社区, Chuàngkù Yìshù Zhǔtí Shèqū, Loft MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 101 Xiba Lu)
West of downtown in a disused factory area known as Chuàng Kù, you'll find a small number of galleries and cafes featuring modern Chinese artists and photographers. Yuánshēng Art Space (源生坊; Yuánshēngfáng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0871 6419 5697; 101 Xiba Lu; h2.30-8.30pm Tue-Sun) is a gallery-bar-restaurant-theatre focusing on the province's ethnic groups. The cornerstone of sorts is TCG Nordica.
TCG NordicaGALLERY
(诺地卡; Nuòdìkǎ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0871 6411 4691; www.tcgnordica.com; 101 Xiba Lu; h11am-9pm Mon-Fri, to 10pm Sat, closed Sun)
TCG Nordica is best described as a gallery–exhibition hall–cultural centre. Live jazz and dance, art and photo exhibitions, an English corner on Monday's (a good opportunity to meet some locals) are all staged here and there's even a relaxing restaurant with Scandinavian and Chinese food (dishes from ¥15). Check out the website for the full slate of performances and events.
East PagodaPAGODA
(东寺塔; Dōngsì Tǎ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 63 Shulin Jie; h9am-5pm)F
Closed for renovations at the time of research, the East Pagoda is a Tang structure that was, according to Chinese sources, destroyed by an earthquake (Western ones say it was destroyed by the Muslim revolt in the mid-19th century). When it is open, it is a hang-out for senior citizens.
Yúnnán Provincial MuseumMUSEUM
(云南省博物馆; Yúnnán Shěng Bówùguǎn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 118 Wuyi Lu; h9am-4.30pm Tue-Sun)F
Set inside a 1950s-era building, Yúnnán’s provincial museum has been upgraded and its interior is sparkling throughout. There are reasonable exhibitions on Diān Chí (Dian Lake), prehistoric and early cultures, but the highlight is the section on Yúnnán’s minorities, with excellent displays of ethnic costumes and musical instruments.
West PagodaPAGODA
(西寺塔; Xīsì Tǎ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Dongsi Jie; h9am-5pm)F
Closed for renovations at the time of research, this Tang pagoda can't be climbed, nor is the temple complex open, but it is a good spot for people-watching with all manner of tea-drinking and mah-jong games going on.
4Sleeping
Some of the best hostels and guesthouses in all Yúnnán can be found in Kūnmíng, as well as budget, midrange and luxury hotels. Many are dotted around Green Lake Park and the surrounding area, which is a convenient central location. The cheapest places are close to the train station.
Kūnmíng Upland Youth HostelHOSTEL$
(昆明倾城青年旅社; Kūnmíng Qīngchéng Qīngnián Lǚshè MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0871 6337 8910; [email protected]; 92 Huashan Xilu; 华山西路92号 dm ¥41-46, s & d ¥132-204; iW)
This place aims to impress with its sharp red and black decor, sizeable bar and inside and outdoor communal areas. Rooms have wood furnishings, and dorms come with big lockers and power outlets. It has English-speaking staff and a handy location near Green Lake. BIkes can be rented for ¥30 a day.
It’s just off Huashan Xilu on a little alley called Dameiyuan Xiang (大梅园巷), near the back entrance of the landmark Green Lake Hotel.
Kūnmíng Ivies Will International Youth HostelHOSTEL$
(昆明爬山虎国际青年旅舍; Kūnmíng Páshānhǔ Guójì Qīngnián Lǚshě %0871 6541 1919; www.ivieswill.com; 24 Jindingshan Beilu; 金鼎山北路24号 dm ¥35-40, d ¥138; iW)
This hostel that caters mostly to local travellers, although some English is spoken. Dorms and rooms are big and comfortable and come with private bathrooms, there's
a large communal area and there's even a basic gym. The drawback is that it is a ¥15 taxi ride from the centre of town. But buses 1, 83 and 168 all run here from the centre.
Hump HostelHOSTEL$
(驼峰客栈; Tuófēng Kèzhàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0871 6364 0359; www.thehumphostel.com; Jinmabiji Guangchang, Jinbi Lu; 金碧路金马碧鸡广场 dm ¥35-45, d with/without bathroom ¥165/90, tr ¥195; iW)
Kūnmíng’s liveliest hostel, in part because of its close proximity to many bars, karaoke joints and restaurants. Bring some earplugs as all this activity could keep you up at night. The hostel itself has clean and big dorms (four to 10 beds); the private rooms (the cheapest lack windows) are sizeable, too, although the beds can be a bit hard.
Bike hire is ¥30 a day and the hostel's own bar and terrace are popular spots for late night carousing.
oLost Garden GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$$
(一丘田园客栈; Yìqiū Tiányuán Kèzhàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0871 6511 1127; www.lostgardenguesthouse.com; 7 Yiqiu Tian; 一丘田7号 dm ¥55-60, d ¥178-328; naiW)
A relaxing oasis amid white-brick apartment blocks, this newly renovated boutique guesthouse has nouveau Dàlǐ decor with wood furniture, antiques, pleasant lounge and roof terrace. Rooms are spread across two adjoining buildings. It’s tricky to locate: start by following the alley to the right of Green Lake Hotel, then take the first left and look for the sign pointing left.
Lonely Planet China Page 135