BORDER CROSSINGS: GETTING TO LAOS & VIETNAM
Getting to Laos
A daily bus from Kūnmíng to Vientiane (¥587) leaves from the south bus station, at 6.30pm, reaching its destination 30 hours later. Alternatively, take a bus to Móhān on the border with Laos; these depart at 12.20pm and 8pm, cost ¥272 to ¥301 and take about 10 hours.
Getting To Vietnam
Apart from getting on a plane, the only way to get to Vietnam from Kūnmíng for now is by bus. Two buses (11.40am and 7.30pm) run daily from Kūnmíng’s east bus station to the border town of Hékǒu (¥147).
Official proceedings at this border crossing can be frustrating (and officials have been known to confiscate Lonely Planet guides because they show Taiwan as a different country to China). Just keep your cool.
On the Chinese side, the border checkpoint is technically open from 8am to 11pm but don’t bank on anything after 6pm. Set your watch when you cross the border – the time in China is one hour later than in Vietnam. Visas are unobtainable at the border crossing.
8Getting Around
To/From the Airport
Airport buses (¥25) run to/from the airport every 30 minutes from nine different locations, the most convenient being the train station, north and west bus stations and the Kūnmíng Hotel. The buses start running from 5am or 6am, depending on the route. The subway will eventually extend to reach the airport.
Ignore the many unofficial taxi touts who will approach you after you exit customs. Always take an official cab. Taxis charge ¥70 to ¥100 into town, depending on traffic and where you are going, and a flat rate of ¥120 going to the airport.
Bicycle
Hostels rent bikes for ¥30 per day, but Kūnmíng has lots of hills.
Bus
Bus 63 runs from the east bus station to the main train station. Bus 2 runs from the train station to Government Sq (Dongfeng Guangchang) and then past the west bus station. Fares range from ¥1 to ¥4. The main city buses have no conductors and require exact change.
Train
Two subway lines are now operational in Kūnmíng, with four more under construction. Fares range from ¥2 to ¥6 and trains run approximately 6.30am to 11pm. For now, the most useful stops include the train station and south bus station, as well as Government Sq (Dongfeng Guangchang) in the centre of town.
Around Kūnmíng
There are some grand sights within a 15km radius of Kūnmíng, but getting to most of them is time-consuming and you’ll find the majority of them extremely crowded (weekdays are best to avoid the crowds).
If you don’t have much time, the Bamboo Temple (Qióngzhú Sì) and Xī Shān (Western Hills) are the most interesting. Both have decent transport connections. Diān Chí (Lake Dian) has terrific circular-tour possibilities of its own.
Around Kūnmíng
1Sights
1Bamboo TempleA1
2Dragon GateA2
3Huátíng TempleA1
4Tàihuá TempleA1
5Yúnnán Nationalities MuseumB1
8Information
6Vietnamese ConsulateB1
7Yán'ān HospitalB1
Bamboo Temple 筇竹寺
Bamboo TempleBUDDHIST TEMPLE
(Qióngzhú Sì; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ¥10; h8am-5pm)
This serene temple (no photos allowed inside) is definitely one to be visited by sculptors as much as by those interested in temple collecting. Raised during the Tang dynasty, it was rebuilt in the 19th century by master Sichuanese sculptor Li Guangxiu and his apprentices, who fashioned 500 luóhàn (arhats or noble ones) in a fascinating mishmash of superb realism and head-scratching exaggerated surrealism.
Li and his mates pretty much went gonzo in their excruciating, eight-year attempt to perfectly represent human existence in statuary. How about the 70-odd surfing Buddhas, riding the waves on a variety of mounts – blue dogs, giant crabs, shrimp, turtles and unicorns? And this is cool: count the arhats one by one to the right until you reach your age – that is the one that best details your inner self.
So lifelike are the sculptures that they were considered in bad taste by Li Guangxiu's contemporaries (some of whom no doubt appeared in caricature), and upon the project's completion he disappeared into thin air.
The temple is about 12km northwest of Kūnmíng. Take bus 2 to Huáng tǔ pō, from where shared minivans (¥10 per person) run to the temple.
Diān Chí 滇池
Diān ChíLAKE
(滇池; Lake Dian )
The shoreline of Diān Chí, located to the south of Kūnmíng, is dotted with settlements, farms and fishing enterprises. The lake is elongated – about 40km from north to south – and covers an area of 300 sq km. Plying the waters are fānchuán (pirate-sized junks with bamboo-battened canvas sails). The area around the lake is mainly for scenic touring and hiking, and there are some fabulous aerial views from the ridges at Dragon Gate in Xī Shān.
Xī Shān 西山
This cool, forested mountain range on the western side of Diān Chí makes for a great day trip from Kūnmíng. Xī Shān (西山) is full of walking trails (some very steep sections), quiet temples, gates and lovely forests. But avoid the weekends when Kūnmíngers come here in droves.
1Sights
Dragon GateHISTORIC SITE
(龙门; Lóng Mén MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ¥40)
Close to the top of the mountain is Dragon Gate, a group of grottoes, sculptures, corridors and pavilions that were hacked from the cliff between 1781 and 1835 by a Taoist monk and co-workers, who must have been hanging up here by their fingertips.
Huátíng TempleBUDDHIST TEMPLE
(华亭寺; Huátíng Sì MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ¥25; h8am-6pm)
At the foot of the climb, about 15km from Kūnmíng, is Huátíng Temple, a country temple of the Nanzhao kingdom believed to have been constructed in the 11th century. It’s one of the largest in the province and its numerous halls are decorated with arhats. A combined ¥25 ticket allows admission here and to Tàihuá Temple (太华寺; Tàihuá Sì MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ¥25; h8am-6pm).
Sānqīng GéTAOIST TEMPLE
(三清阁 )
Sānqīng Gé, near the top of the mountain, was a country villa of a Yuan dynasty prince, and was later turned into a temple dedicated to the three main Taoist deities (sānqīng refers to the highest level of Taoist ‘enlightenment’).
From near here you can catch a chairlift (one way/return ¥25/40) if you want to skip the final ascent to the summit.
8Getting There & Away
One day, Kūnmíng’s metro system will extend out here. Until then, take bus 54 (¥2, 6am to 11pm) from the corner of Renmin Zhonglu and Zhengyi Lu in Kūnmíng to its terminus at Mián Shān Chē Chǎng (眠山车场), and then change to bus 6 (¥1, 6.30am to 8pm), which will take you to the foot of the hills. Buses run up Xī Shān itself to Sānqīng Gé (one way/return ¥12.50/25, every 15 minutes, 8.10am to 6.10pm).
Returning, you could take the cable car across to Hǎigěng Park for ¥40. From here, take the 94 bus or a taxi for the 3km or so to the Yúnnán Nationalities Museum, where you can catch bus 44 (¥1, 40 minutes) to Kūnmíng’s main train station.
Shílín 石林
%0871 / Pop 87,955
A conglomeration of utterly bizarre but stunning karst geology and a hell of a lot of tourists, Shílín (石林), about 120km southeast of Kūnmíng, is equal parts tourist trap and natural wonderland. A massive collection of grey limestone pillars split and eroded by wind and rainwater (the tallest reaches 30m high), the place was, according to legend, created by immortals who smashed a mountain into a labyrinth for lovers seeking privacy.
Yes, it’s packed to the gills, every single rock is affixed with a cheesy poetic moniker, Sani women can be persistent in sales, and it’s all pricey as hell. Yet, idyllic, secluded walks are within 2km of the centre and by sunset or moonlight Shílín becomes other-worldly. To avoid the crowds, arrive early and avoid weekends.
During the July/August torch festival, wrestling, bullfightin
g, singing and dancing are held at a natural outdoor amphitheatre by Hidden Lake, south of Shílín.
Shílín can easily be visited as a day trip from Kūnmíng, and it doesn’t have much in the way of budget accommodation. But if you want to stay the night, the rooms at the Shílín Hēisōngyán Jiǔdiǎn (石林黑松岩酒店 %0871 6771 1088; tw ¥280; W) are quiet and have good views over Shílín.
Sani song and dance evenings are organised when there are enough tourists. Shows normally start at around 8pm at a stage next to the minor stone forest but there are sometimes extra performances. There are also Sani performances at the same location during the day between 2pm and 3pm.
Buses to Shílín (¥38, two hours, every 30 minutes, 7am to 7.30pm) leave from Kūnmíng’s east bus station.
Hēijǐng 黑井
%0878
Time-warped Hēijǐng (黑井) has been known for salt production for centuries and is still an important producer of the ‘white gold', as well as home to a sizeable Hui Muslim community. Hēijǐng has retained much of its period architecture and is a great place to wander for a day or two, marvelling at the old gates, temples and shady narrow alleys. The village makes a fine stopping-off point if you want to take the route less travelled between Dàlǐ and Kūnmíng.
1Sights
The ¥30 entry fee at the main gate (a couple of kilometres before the village) includes admission to Dàlóng Cí (大龙祠; the clan meeting hall) and Gǔyán Fáng (古盐坊; an old salt production facility). The latter offers brief descriptions of the history of salt production, although none in English. You can find it by walking east from the village for about 15 minutes. A few old salt wells can also be inspected, look out for the Black Cow Well (黑牛井; Hēiniú Jǐng), just south of Dàlóng Cí.
Wu Family CourtyardHISTORIC BUILDING
(武家大院; Wǔjiā Dàyuàn %0878 489 0358)
The best-known courtyard in town was once owned by local salt magnate Wu Weiyang, who was summarily executed by communist forces in 1949. You can walk around the courtyard, or take tea here.
4Sleeping
Wang Family CourtyardINN$
(王家大院; Wángjiā Dàyuàn %0878 489 0506; r ¥80; W)
A family-run guesthouse, the rooms here are set around a pleasant courtyard. They're not huge and the bathrooms are simple (squat toilets), but it's a peaceful place and the courtyard is perfect for stargazing come nightfall.
Wénmiào Zhuàngyuán JiǔdiànHISTORIC HOTEL$$
(文庙状元酒店 %0878 604 3366; tw ¥368; aW)
The setting is historic – this new place is located inside the remains of the town's Confucious Temple, parts of which are still standing – but the hotel itself is a modern block with big, comfortable rooms and the best bathrooms in town.
8Information
A small tourist information office near the first bridge can point the way to the various sites.
8Getting There & Away
The best option to reach Hēijǐng is local train number 6162 (¥11.50, three hours), departing Kūnmíng at 7.10am and arriving at 10.10am. The train stops a couple of kilometres from the village but horse-drawn buggies and minivans (¥3 to ¥5 per person) meet the train to make the journey here. Going the other way, train 6161 departs at 1.34pm and reaches Kūnmíng at 5.30pm.
The alternative is to take the bus from Kūnmíng or Dàlǐ to the county capital Chǔxióng (楚雄). From Chǔxióng's main bus station, take a taxi (¥9) to the east bus station (东客运站; dōng kèyùnzhàn), where there are buses to Hēijǐng (¥19, 2½ hours) every hour between 9am and 3.50pm. From Hēijǐng, buses to Chǔxióng leave from outside the market at the end of the village from 6.40am to 2.30pm.
Jiànshuǐ 建水
%0873 / Pop 17,400
Jiànshuǐ (建水) is a charming town of old buildings (surrounded by a much larger modern city), an enormous Confucian temple, a cave laden with swallows, and some of the best steam-pot cooking and barbecue you’ll find in Yúnnán. The architecture is constantly being ‘facelifted’, but still retains much of its distinct character, and the locals, who are a mix of Han, Hui and Yi, are friendly.
History
Known in ancient times as Bùtóu or Bādiàn (巴甸), Jiànshuǐ’s history dates back to the Western Jin period, when it was under the auspices of the Ningzhou kingdom. It was handed around to other authorities until its most important days as part of the Tonghai Military Command of the Nanzhao kingdom. The Yuan dynasty established what would eventually become the contemporary town.
1Sights
Classic architecture surrounds you here, and not just in the old-style back alleys. Virtually every main street has a historically significant traditional structure. The architecture is especially intriguing because of the obvious mixture of central plains and local styles. Many old buildings, despite official decrees positing them as state treasures, have been co-opted for other purposes and the trick – and the fun – is trying to find them.
You can buy a ¥133 through ticket (通票; tōngpiào) that gets you into the Confucian Temple, the Zhu Family Garden and Swallow’s Cavern. It’s on sale at any of those places.
Confucian TempleCONFUCIAN TEMPLE
(文庙; Wénmiào GOOGLE MAP ; Lin'an Lu, 临安路 ¥60; h8am-6.30pm)
Jiànshuǐ’s most famous temple was modelled after the temple in Confucius’ hometown of Qūfù (Shāndōng province) and finished in 1285; it covers 7.5 hectares and is the third-largest Confucian temple in China. (Some locals employ a flurry of Byzantine mathematics to prove it’s the largest; either way, Xué Lake, around which it sits, uses the Chinese word for ‘sea’ in its name!)
Zhu Family GardenHISTORIC SITE
(朱家花园; Zhūjiā Huāyuán GOOGLE MAP ; Hanlin Jie, 翰林街 ¥50; h8am-10pm)
This spacious 20,000-sq-metre complex, a fascinating example of Qing-era one-upping-the-Joneses, comprises ancestral buildings, family homes, ponds and lovely gardens, and took 30 years to build. The Zhu family made its name through its mill and tavern, and dabbled in everything from tin in Gèjiù to opium in Hong Kong, eventually falling victim to the political chaos following the 1911 revolution.
Cháoyáng GateHISTORIC SITE
(朝阳搂; Cháoyáng Lóu GOOGLE MAP ; ¥20; h8am-10pm)
Newly refurbished, Cháoyáng Gate is an imposing Ming edifice that guards the entrance to the old town. Modelled on the Yellow Crane Tower in Wǔhàn and the Yuèyáng Tower located at Dòngtíng Lake (洞庭湖; Dòngtíng Hú) in Húnán, it bears more than a passing resemblance to the Gate of Heavenly Peace in Běijīng. You can climb to the second storey for moderate views.
4Sleeping
There are guesthouses and inns scattered throughout the old town, as well as one hostel.
Typha Youth HostelHOSTEL$
(草芽青年旅舍; Cǎoyá Qīngnián Lǚshě GOOGLE MAP ; %0873 765 2451; [email protected]; 89 Ruyi Lane; 如意巷89号 10-/4-bed dm ¥30/40, d ¥70-90; aiW)
Under new management, this is a real hostel now with a cosy communal area, bike hire (¥30 per day) and sound travel advice: it's a good place to book a tour of the surrounding area. Dorms are clean and come with lockers, the private rooms are compact but OK.
To find it, walk 30m past the Confucian Temple and turn down an alley on the left-hand side of the road by 253 Lin'an Lu.
Lín’ān InnINN$$
(临安客栈; Lín’ān Kèzhàn GOOGLE MAP ; %0873 765 5866; [email protected]; 32 Hanlin Jie; 翰林街32号 d ¥228-328; aW)
In a prime location in the heart of the old town and with well-kept rooms, the biggest draw here is the great communal courtyard which is very pleasant for a beer in the evening. But the rooms are sizeable and well-maintained too. It rents bikes for ¥30 per day and can get small discounts on the entry fees to the main sights.
5Eating
Jiànshuǐ is legendary for its qìguō (汽锅), a stew often infused with medicinal herbs and served in earthenware pots. Expect to pay ¥40 to ¥50 per pot. Jiànshuǐ is also famous for barb
ecue (烧烤; shāokǎo), and you’ll find many cubbyhole restaurants grilling away.
Āmáo Qīngzhēn ShāokǎoYUNNAN$
(阿毛清真烧烤 GOOGLE MAP ; %134 0892 7657; Shuyuan Jie; 书院街 barbecue skewers from ¥2; h6pm-2am)
This is the place to eat fine barbecue underneath the stars. Everything – fish, meat, veggies, tofu – is on display, so just pick and choose. It also does the coveted mǐxiàn (米线; rice noodles) from ¥7. It's tucked down an alley off Hanlin Jie close to the Zhu Family Garden: everyone knows it.
8Getting There & Away
Jiànshuǐ has a couple of bus stations. The main one is 3km north of Cháoyáng Gate. For very local destinations, you need to head to the Hóng Yùn bus station (红运客运站, Hóng Yùn Kèyùnzhàn) a few minutes’ walk west of the corner of Chaoyang Beilu and Beizheng Jie. A taxi from the main bus station to the old town is ¥7.
From the main station, there are buses continually leaving for Nánshà in Yuányáng (¥31, every 20 minutes, two to three hours, 6.30am to 6.40pm). For Xīnjiē and the rice terraces, there is one daily bus (¥43, three hours, 11.34am).
Frequent buses head to Kūnmíng (¥81, every 25 minutes, three to four hours, 7am to 9.30pm). There are two buses daily to Hékǒu (¥65, five hours, 7.26am and 8.10am). Buses to Jǐnghóng (¥225, eight to nine hours) depart at 1pm and 4pm.
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