Cooking at an outdoor food stall, Yúnnán | MARK READ/LONELY PLANET ©
8Getting There & Away
From Jiànchuān (剑川), minivans (¥13, 45 minutes) run to and from Shāxī. Moving on, you’ll have to backtrack to Jiànchuān. There are buses every 20 to 30 minutes to Dàlǐ (¥39) between 6.30am and 6pm. To Lìjiāng (¥23, 1½ hours) there are buses at 9am, 10am, 11.30am, 1.30pm, 2.30pm and 3.30pm. Buses to Kūnmíng (¥168) leave at 9.30am and 6pm, and to Shangri-la (¥46) at 9am and 10am.
Northwest Yúnnán
Northwest Yúnnán is a gorgeous blend of soaring mountains, pristine lakes and dizzyingly deep gorges and valleys. This is the part of Yúnnán to head to for epic treks: whether in the shadow of the 6000m peaks around Déqīn, or through the stunning Tiger Leaping Gorge. But the region is also home to the little-seen Nù Jiāng Valley, where Yúnnán meets both Tibet and Myanmar, and Lúgū Hú, a vast lake that straddles the Yúnnán–Sìchuān border and is home to the Mosuo people, the last matriarchal society in the world. If that wasn’t enough, there are also the towns of Shangri-la, with its intriguing blend of Tibetan and Han Chinese culture, and Lìjiāng, a Unesco World Heritage Site that sucks in both domestic and foreign visitors.
The main towns in the region – Lìjiāng and Shangri-la – have a wide range of hostels, guesthouses and hotels that cater to every budget and taste. You’ll also find many hostels and guesthouses in the popular trekking destinations around Déqīn, in Bǐngzhōngluò in the Nù Jiāng Valley, Lúgū Hú and Tiger Leaping Gorge. Elsewhere, accommodation options tend to be standard budget or midrange hotels.
Lìjiāng and Shangri-la have the best restaurants in Northwest Yúnnán, with many Chinese and Western options. In Lìjiāng, make sure to try the cuisine of the local Naxi minority, while Shangri-la is a great place to sample Tibetan cooking. More remote destinations, such as around Déqīn and the Nù Jiāng Valley, have far fewer restaurants and many people eat in their guesthouses.
Lìjiāng and Shangri-la are the only places in Northwest Yúnnán with airports and train stations (although the railway isn’t scheduled to reach Shangri-la until 2019), and from them you can connect to destinations across Yúnnán and beyond. But buses are the main way to get around this region and with roads winding through mountain passes, journey times can be long.
Lìjiāng 丽江
%0888 / Pop 40,000
How popular is this time-locked place? Lìjiāng’s (丽江) maze of cobbled streets, rickety (or rickety-looking, given gentrification) wooden buildings and gushing canals suck in over eight million people a year. So thick are the crowds in the narrow alleys that it can feel like they've all arrived at the same time.
But remember the 80/20 rule: 80% of the tourists will be in 20% of the places. Get up early enough and you can often beat the crowds. And when they do appear, that’s the cue to hop on a bike and cycle out to one of the nearby villages.
Lìjiāng
1Sights
1Looking at the Past PavillionE3
2Mu Family MansionF4
3Old Market SquareA3
4Old TownB2
5WaterwheelE2
6White Horse Dragon PoolE4
7Zhōngyì MarketE4
4Sleeping
8Blossom Hill JoylandC3
9Intercontinental LìjiāngE4
10Zen Garden HotelB3
5Eating
11Āmāyì Nàxī SnacksB3
12Lamu's House of TibetA2
13N's KitchenA3
14Prague CafeA3
15Sakura Good Food SquareA3
16Tiāntiān XiānC4
6Drinking & Nightlife
17Stone the CrowsC3
3Entertainment
18Nàxī OrchestraA3
1Sights
Visitors to Lìjiāng's old town ( GOOGLE MAP ; admission ¥80) have long been required to buy a ‘protection fee’ ticket, allegedly for preservation projects, but now proof of payment is being enforced much more rigidly. The ticket is valid for 15 days and you'll need to hang onto it, as there are now ticket checks at the entrances leading into the old town. You will also need it to gain free entry to Black Dragon Pool, as well as to other sites such as Yùlóng Xuěshān.
Lìjiāng Old TownHISTORIC SITE
(丽江古城, Lìjiāng Gǔchéng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; ¥80)
The old town is centred on the busy and touristy Old Market Square (四方街; Sìfāng Jiē MAP GOOGLE MAP ). The surrounding lanes are dissected by a web of artery-like canals that once brought the city’s drinking water from Yuquan Spring, on the far outskirts of what is now Black Dragon Pool Park. Several wells and pools are still in use around town (but hard to find). Where there are three pools, these were designated into pools for drinking, washing clothes and washing vegetables.
A famous example of these is the White Horse Dragon Pool (白马龙潭; Báimǎlóng Tán MAP GOOGLE MAP ) in the deep south of the old town, where you can still see the locals washing their veggies after buying them in the market.
Now acting as sentinel of sorts for the town, the Looking at the Past Pavillion (望古楼; Wànggǔ Lóu MAP GOOGLE MAP ; admission incl in ¥80 old town entrance ticket; h8.30am-6pm) has a unique design using dozens of four-storey pillars – culled from northern Yúnnán old-growth forests.
A must-see is Zhōngyì Market (忠义市场; Zhōngyì Shìchǎng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Xianghe Lu; 祥和路 h6am-5pm) where locals sell produce, copper items and livestock. If you are craving a slice of old Lìjiāng, this is where you’ll find it.
WaterwheelHISTORIC SITE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
Wooden waterwheel and popular photo op.
Black Dragon Pool ParkPARK
(黑龙潭公园; Hēilóngtán Gōngyuán GOOGLE MAP ; Xin Dajie, 新大街 incl with town entrance ticket; h7am-8pm)
On the northern edge of town is the Black Dragon Pool Park; its view of Yùlóng Xuěshān is an obligatory photo shoot in southwestern China. The Dōngbā Research Institute (东巴文化研究室; Dōngbā Wénhuà Yánjiūshì GOOGLE MAP ; admission free with ¥80 old town entrance ticket; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri) is part of a renovated complex on the hillside here. You can see Naxi cultural artefacts and scrolls featuring a unique pictograph script.
Trails lead up Xiàng Shān (象山, Elephant Hill) to a dilapidated gazebo and then across a spiny ridge past a communications centre and back down the other side, making a nice morning hike, but note that there have been reports of solo women travellers being robbed in this area.
The Museum of Naxi Dongba Culture (纳西东巴文化博物馆; Nàxī Dōngbā Wénhuà Bówùguǎn GOOGLE MAP ; admission free with ¥80 old town entrance ticket; h8.30am-4.30pm) is at the park’s northern entrance and is a decent introduction to traditional Naxi lifestyle and religion, complete with good English captions.
Note that the pool has dried up in recent years and without water some visitors are disappointed with this site; ask at your guesthouse first if the pool has water before deciding whether or not to visit.
Mu Family MansionHISTORIC SITE
(木氏土司府; Mùshì Tǔsīfǔ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; admission ¥60; h8.30am-5.30pm)
The former home of a Naxi chieftain, the Mu Family Mansion was heavily renovated (more like built from scratch) after the devastating earthquake that struck Lìjiāng in 1996. Mediocre captions do a poor job of introducing the Mu family but many travellers find the beautiful grounds reason enough to visit.
Bizarrely, this sight is not covered by the old town entrance ticket.
OLD TOWN, NEW TOWN
A Unesco World Heritage Site since 1997, Lìjiāng is a city of two halves: the old town and the very modern new town. The old town is where you’ll be spending your time and it’s a jumble of lanes that twist and turn. If you get lost (and most do), head upstream and you’ll make your way back to the main square.
TTours
It is possible to see most of Lìjiāng’s environs on your own, but a few agencies in Lìjiāng, such as Keith Lyons, offer half- or f
ull-day tours, starting from ¥200, plus fees.
Keith LyonsTOUR
(%137 6900 1439; [email protected]; per day from ¥200)
Lìjiāng-based guide Keith Lyons runs tours and treks, specialising in the area outside Lìjiāng.
LÌJIĀNG | EFIRED/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
zFestivals & Events
Fertility FestivalCULTURAL
(hlate Mar/early Apr)
Held on the 13th day of the third moon, this festival sees Naxi people offering a sacrifice – normally a goat – to their patron saint Sānduǒ (三朵). The biggest celebration takes place at the Sānduǒ Temple (三朵寺; Sānduǒ Sì) on Yùlóng Xuěshān, where there's a big market and much revelry.
Torch FestivalCULTURAL
(hJul)
The torch festival (Huǒbǎ Jié) is also celebrated by the Bai in the Dàlǐ region and the Yi all over the southwest. The origin of this festival can be traced back to the Nanzhao kingdom, when the wife of a man burned to death by the king eluded the romantic entreaties of the monarch by leaping into a fire.
These days, flaming torches are paraded through the streets to much merriment.
4Sleeping
Rising rents mean that most guesthouses have relocated to just outside the old town, either north or south. Nevertheless, there are still well over a thousand places to stay in the old town, with more appearing all the time. Many have fewer than 10 rooms. In peak season (especially public holidays), prices double (or more).
October InnGUESTHOUSE$
(汤姆家; Tāngmǔ Jiā GOOGLE MAP ; %139 8704 6967; www.october-inn.com; Xuantian Xiang; 玄天巷 8-/4-bed dm ¥35/40, d & tw ¥120-160; W)
An intimate, secluded, increasingly popular guesthouse with excellent, spacious dorms, a handful of private rooms – book ahead – and a cool roof terrace with great views. There are daily communal dinners (¥25) and bike hire is ¥30. It's a steep, 15-minute climb from the old town; call ahead and they'll pick you up when you arrive in Lìjiāng.
Timeless HostelHOSTEL$
(久居丽江青年旅舍; Jiǔ Jū Lìjiāng Qīngnián Lǚshě GOOGLE MAP ; %0888 517 4626; [email protected]; 63 Wenming Xiang, Wuyi Jie, Yishang; 义尚村五一街文明巷63号 dm/d ¥45/196; iW)
This amiable hostel at the quieter eastern end of Wuyi Jie has some of the best dorms in town: large with ensuite bathrooms and big lockers, as well as clean private rooms with shared balconies. All are set around a pleasant courtyard. The attached restaurant and bar are good for both meals and hanging out. Bike hire is ¥30.
Garden InnGUESTHOUSE$
(丽江文庙国际客栈; Lìjiāng Wénmiào Guójì Kèzhàn GOOGLE MAP ; %151 0887 3494; www.mayhostel.wix.com/gardeninn; 7 Wenmiao Xiang, Beimen Jie; 文庙巷 7 号, 北门街 dm ¥40, d ¥168-238; iW)
Now relocated higher up and just outside the old town (the views are better), this popular but peaceful hostel has compact, rather dark dorms, but they have their own bathrooms and the beds have proper mattresses. Private rooms are big with shared balconies and there's a roof terrace. There's a small communal area and the helpful staff can arrange tours.
It's up an alley just off Jinhong Lu, which the locals know as Beimen Jie. Call ahead and staff will come and get you.
Mama Naxi’s GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$
(妈妈纳西客栈; Māmā Nàxī Kèzhàn %0888 510 0700; [email protected]; 22 Jixiang Lu; 吉祥路22号 8-/6-bed dm ¥30/35, d ¥120-140; niW)
Yet another long-time guesthouse driven out of the old town by rising rents, the new Mama Naxi is a rather swish place in a quiet residential compound close to the bus station. Dorms are spacious and the private rooms are comfortable, although it feels more like a hotel than a traditional guesthouse. It hosts daily communal dinners (¥25) and the staff remain friendly.
This is a good place to book tours to the surrounding area. Bike hire is ¥25 per day. It's difficult to find (no sign pointing the way), so call ahead and they will pick you up.
oBlossom Hill JoylandBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(花间堂; Huājiān Táng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %4000 767 123; www.blossomhillinn.com; 55 Wenhua Xiang, Wuyi Jie; 五一街文华巷55号 d ¥480-1280; aW)
There are only 18 rooms, all individually decorated in very tasteful and comfortable fashion, at this very popular boutique inn in the heart of the old town. Bathrooms are modern and large, while each room comes with its own collection of antiques and wood furnishings. Staff are helpful and there's a small common area with a library. It's essential to book ahead.
Intercontinental LìjiāngHOTEL$$$
(丽江和府洲际度假酒店; Lìjiāng Héfǔ Zhōujì Jiàrì Jiǔdiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0888 558 8888; www.intercontinental.com; 276 Xianghe Lu; 祥和路276号 r ¥2200-4100; aiWs)
The former Crowne Plaza is the best hotel in the old town, a magical space with lofty ceilings, little gardens and epic views of the Jade Dragon Mountain. The bathrooms are the finest in town, the beds huge and comfy. Other amenities include two restaurants, a swimming pool, day spa and children’s play room. Discounts of 25% are sometimes available.
Zen Garden HotelHOTEL$$$
(瑞和园酒店; Ruìhé Yuán Jiǔdiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0888 518 9799; www.zengardenhotel.com; 36 Xingren Lane, Wuyi Jie; 五一街兴仁下段36号 r ¥500-2600; W)
As befits its name, this is a serene, hushed establishment. Run by a Naxi teacher and decorated with help from her artist brother, the furniture and design in the communal areas are lovely, even if the cheapest rooms are a little plain for the price. Discounts of 30% are sometimes available.
THE NAXI
Lìjiāng has been the homeland of the 300,000-odd Naxi (纳西; pronounced 'na-see', also spelt Nakhi and Nahi) minority for about the last 1400 years. The Naxi descend from ethnically Tibetan Qiang tribes and lived until recently in matrilineal families. Since local rulers were always male it wasn’t truly matriarchal, but women still seemed to run the show.
The Naxi matriarchs maintained their hold over the men with flexible arrangements for love affairs. The azhu (friend) system allowed a couple to become lovers without setting up joint residence. Both partners would continue to live in their respective homes; the boyfriend would spend the nights at his girlfriend’s house but return to live and work at his mother’s house during the day. Any children born to the couple belonged to the woman, who was responsible for bringing them up. The man provided support, but once the relationship was over, so was the support. Children lived with their mothers and no special effort was made to recognise paternity. Women inherited all property and disputes were adjudicated by female elders.
There are strong matriarchal influences in the Naxi language. Nouns enlarge their meaning when the word for ‘female’ is added; conversely, the addition of the word for ‘male’ will decrease the meaning. For example, ‘stone’ plus ‘female’ conveys the idea of a boulder; ‘stone’ plus ‘male’ conveys the idea of a pebble.
Naxi man, Yúnnán | MARK READ/LONELY PLANET ©
5Eating
There are many, many eateries around the old town, and almost every menu will have both Chinese and Western dishes.
Bābā is the Lìjiāng local speciality – thick flatbreads of wheat, served plain or stuffed with meat, vegetables or sweets. There are always several ‘Naxi’ items on menus, including the famous ‘Naxi omelette’ and ‘Naxi sandwich’ (goat’s cheese, tomato and fried egg between two pieces of local bābā). Try locally produced qīng méi jiǔ (a plum-based wine with a 500-year history) – it tastes like a semisweet sherry.
oTiāntiān XiānYUNNAN$
(天天鲜 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0888 518 4933; 47 Wangjiazhuang Xiang, Wuyi Jie; 五一街王家庄巷47号 dishes from ¥12; h11am-9pm)
Locals flock here for the superb grilled fish and chicken and soy-bean-paste dishes (get here before 7pm or it will have run out). But all the Naxi specialities on offer are fantastic and great value. No English spoken, but there is an English menu. To find it, look for the three characters with 'Daily Fresh' written i
n English underneath them.
Sakura Good Food SquareYUNNAN$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Yīnghuā Méishí Guángchǎng; Qiyi Jie; 樱花美食广场 snacks from ¥20; h10am-late; c)
Snackers should not miss the open-air food market where vendors sell appetising bite-size treats, some of which are native to Lìjiāng. Try the Nàxī kǎo qiézì (纳西烤茄子; Naxi grilled eggplant), served in a boat-shaped crust; tǔ dòu bǐng (土豆饼; Naxi potato pancake), and Nàxī kǎolà cháng (纳西烤腊肠; Naxi grilled, salty sausage) made with pork, fat and pepper.
Āmāyì Nàxī SnacksYUNNAN$$
(阿妈意纳西饮食院; Āmāyì Nàxī Yǐnshí Yuàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0888 530 9588; Wuyi Jie, 五一街 dishes from ¥18; h11am-10pm)
The name doesn’t do justice to the small but select and very authentic selection of Naxi cuisine on offer at this calm courtyard restaurant. There are fantastic mushroom dishes, when in season, as well as zhútǒng fàn (rice packed in bamboo). It’s down an alley off Wuyi Jie, close to the Stone Bridge.
Prague CafeCAFE$$
(布拉格咖啡馆; Bùlāgé Kāfēiguǎn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 80 Mishi Xiang; 密士巷80号 breakfast from ¥30, mains from ¥40; h8am-11pm; W)
Something of an oasis in the heart of the old town, with good coffee and tea, solid breakfasts and a selection of Western and Japanese dishes, as well as books to read. It serves alcohol too.
Lonely Planet China Page 141