4Sleeping
There are hotels and hostels aplenty in Jǐnghóng. Basic guesthouses are sometimes available in the villages, or locals will offer a bed. Make sure to pay for it: around ¥50 for a bed and meal is the going rate.
5Eating
Bǎnnà is home to some of the best food in all China. Sour and spicy Dai food in particular is excellent, drawing on both Chinese and Southeast Asian influences. Dai dishes include barbecued fish, eel or beef cooked with lemongrass or served with peanut and tomato sauce. The region's fertile earth guarantees superb fruit and vegetables too.
8Getting There & Away
Jǐnghóng is the main transport hub for Xīshuāngbǎnnà, with air and bus connections to the rest of Yúnnán. Měnghǎi, about an hour west of Jǐnghóng by bus, is another key transport node for reaching many of Xīshuāngbǎnnà's outlying villages, including Xīdìng, Měnghùn and Jǐngzhēn. Frequent buses from Jǐnghóng's No 2 Bus Station travel to Měnghǎi's bus station, where you can pick up buses and minivans to the villages. You can also get direct buses from Jǐnghóng to destinations in Laos, including Luang Nam Tha and Luang Prabang, while there's also the possibility of hitching a ride on a cargo boat down the Mekong to northern Thailand. But there is still no overland access to Myanmar from here.
BǎNNà BORDER CHECKPOINTS
At the time of writing, normally sleepy Bǎnnà was a hive of police activity, especially along the borders with Laos and Myanmar (Burma). The reason for this is the increase in the number of Uighurs – the restive Muslim ethnic minority group native to far-off Xīnjiāng Province – attempting to flee China across what are normally the country's most porous frontiers.
Any bus or car travelling close to the borders will be stopped at any number of checkpoints and the IDs of all passengers scrutinised. It is absolutely essential for all travellers to carry their passports with them when journeying around the border areas. The police will be unimpressed if you have no proof of who you are and where you are from.
Jǐnghóng 景洪
%0691 / Pop 205,523
Jǐnghóng (景洪) – the ‘City of Dawn’ in local Dai language – is experiencing some serious investment. The once-sleepy capital of Xīshuāngbǎnnà Prefecture is expanding fast, with new apartment blocks sprawling down both sides of the Mekong River (known as the Láncāng in China) which bisects the city and ambitious developments sprouting on the city's outskirts.
The once underpopulated left bank of the Mekong is at the heart of the boom, meaning the city's axis is beginning to shift from its traditional centre on the right bank. Nevertheless, Jǐnghóng sees relatively few Western visitors and it remains laid-back despite the increasingly snarled traffic. And everything from the food to the weather has more in common with Southeast Asia than China.
Jǐnghóng
1Sights
1Tropical Flower & Plants GardenA1
4Sleeping
2Home InnC2
3Jǐnglán KèzhànC2
4King Land HotelC2
5Riverside International HostelC1
5Eating
6Bǎnnà CafeC2
7Luō Luō Bīng WūC1
8Měiměi CaféC2
1Sights
Tropical Flower & Plants GardenGARDENS
(热带花卉园; Rèdài Huāhuìyuán MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 99 Jinghong Xilu; ¥54; h7.30am-6pm)
This terrific botanic garden, west of the town centre, is one of Jǐnghóng’s better attractions. Admission gets you into a series of gardens where you can view over 1000 different types of plant life.
4Sleeping
Jǐnglán KèzhànHOTEL$
(景兰客栈 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0691 212 5288; Off Menglong Lu; 勐龙路 d ¥120-150; aW)
Tucked away in a forecourt off the end of Menglong Lu, this is a reliable and comfortable budget option, with decent beds and sizeable rooms, some of which have balconies. Good wi-fi and efficient staff, although you won't hear any English.
Home InnHOTEL$
(如家酒店; Rújiā Jiǔdiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0691 219 0688; [email protected]; 2 Manting Lu; 曼听路2号 d ¥149-179; aW)
Not the most exotic of digs, but this chain hotel offers big, if a little gloomy, rooms, with modern bathrooms in a convenient central location. Some rooms can be smoky, so check them before you move in. Efficient staff.
Riverside International HostelHOSTEL$
(西双版纳囍居国际青年旅舍; Xīshuāngbǎnnà Xǐjū Guójì Qīngnián Lǚshě MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0691 219 5611; [email protected]; 15F, Bldg 1, Xishuang Shi'er Cheng (next to Green Eastern Hotel); 西双十貳城国际公馆1栋15楼格林东方酒店旁 dm ¥40-45, d ¥238-299; aW)
Despite its location in a new tower block, this is the best hostel in town. Private rooms are bright, fresh and large and many come with great Mekong River views. The dorms are spacious too and have little balconies and lockers. There's a big communal area and helpful staff, even if you won't hear much English.
The hostel goes into hibernation during the rainy season, when it is crewed by a skeleton staff. To find it, look for the far two tower blocks beyond the performance square off Menghai Lu and head for the right-hand one.
King Land HotelHOTEL$$$
(鲸兰大酒店; Jīnglán Jiǔdiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0691 212 9999; 6 Jingde Lu; 景德路6号 d ¥490-1180; aWs)
Sporting two enormous elephants at its entrance, this is one of Jǐnghóng’s unmistakable landmarks. The rooms are a little plain and compact for the price, but this is the only four-star place with such a central location and a swimming pool. Rooms are routinely discounted by 20% out of season and they take Western credit cards.
5Eating
Dai dishes include grilled fish or beef cooked with lemon grass, or served with peanut and tomato sauce. The most authentic Dai restaurants are located on the outskirts of town and serve up big set-meal feasts, so get a group together. Ask at the Meimei Café for directions. In the centre, Menghai Lu, Mengpeng Lu and Menghun Lu all have decent Dai restaurants.
Jǐnghóng Night MarketMARKET$
(景洪夜市; Jǐnghóng Yèshì Ganbai Jie, Shuishang Renjia, Gaozhuang Xishuangjing; 告庄西双景水上人家赶摆街 from ¥2; h5pm-late)
With Jǐnghóng's axis switching inexorably to the left bank of the river, this night market is increasingly popular with both locals and visitors. All manner of Dai and Yúnnán eats are on display, and you are close to the riverbank where Chinese-style bars are beginning to congregate. It's a ¥15 to ¥20 taxi ride from the centre of town.
Bǎnnà CafeINTERNATIONAL$
(版纳咖啡; Bǎnnà Kāfēi MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %158 9430 9053; 1 Manting Lu; 曼听路1号 breakfast from ¥22, dishes from ¥20; h9am-11.30pm; W)
A good place for breakfast, this friendly, Akha-owned cafe also has a small terrace that is ideal for a sundowner or late-evening libation while watching the world go by. Staff can also arrange treks and guides.
Luō Luō Bīng WūNOODLES$
(啰啰冰屋 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0691 213 1160; 96 Xuanwei Dadao; 宣威大道96号 dishes from ¥12; h11am-1am)
This buzzing local spot has Jǐnghóngers flocking here for the cheap and tasty rice noodle and fried rice dishes, as well as fruit juices, shakes and Taiwanese-style shaved-ice desserts that are perfect for cooling off. There’s an open-air area out back.
oMěiměi CaféINTERNATIONAL$$
(美美咖啡; Měiměi Kāfēi MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0691 216 1221; www.meimei-cafe.com; 107-108 Menglong Lu; 勐龙路107-108号 dishes from ¥18; h8am-1am; W)
You’ll find it and you’ll eat here. This is the original of all the Western-style cafes in town and still the best, thanks to its menu of steaks, burgers, sandwiches, pizza and pasta, and foreigner-friendly Chinese and Thai dishes. Good range of local and foreign beers, plus proper coffee and juices. Owner Orchid is a great source of local info.
Mekong CafeINTERNATIONAL$$
(湄公咖啡; Méigōng Kāfēi %0691 222 6588; [email protected]; 1-1-1201, Ganbai Jie, Shuishang Ren
jia, Gaozhuang Xishuangjing; 告庄西双景水上人家赶摆街1-1-1201号 dishes from ¥26; h9am-1am; W)
This long-standing presence has shifted to the other side of the river and now has a prime location on the riverbank, close to the night market. It still serves up a wide-ranging mix of Western and Chinese food, as well as many foreign ales and decent wine. The attached travel agency specialises in eco-treks and is a reliable source of information and guides.
8Information
Very occasionally, we get reports from travellers who have been drugged and then robbed on the Kūnmíng–Jǐnghóng bus trip. Be friendly but aware, accept nothing, and never leave your stuff unattended when you hop off for a break.
Bank of ChinaBANK
(中国银行; Zhōngguó Yínháng GOOGLE MAP ; Xuanwei Dadao)
Changes travellers cheques and foreign currency, and has an ATM machine. There are other branches on Galan Zhonglu and Minhang Lu.
Bank of ChinaBANK
(中国银行; Zhōngguó Yínháng GOOGLE MAP )
One of a number of branches around town.
China PostPOST
(国际邮局; Zhōngguó Yóuzhèng GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Mengle Dadao & Xuanwei Dadao; h9am-6pm)
You can send mail overseas from here.
Public Security BureauPOLICE
(PSB; 公安局; Gōng’ānjú GOOGLE MAP ; 13 Jingde Lu; h8-11.30am & 3-5.30pm Mon-Fri)
Come here for visa extensions.
Xīshuǎngbǎnnà Minorities HospitalHOSPITAL
(西双版纳民族医院; Xīshuǎngbǎnnà Mínzú Yīyuàn GOOGLE MAP ; %0691 213 0123; Galan Nanlu)
The best bet for having an English-speaker available.
8Getting There & Away
Air
Jǐnghóng Airport is 5km south of the city.
There are around 40 daily flights to Kūnmíng (from ¥450) but in April (when the water-splashing festival is held) you’ll still need to book tickets in advance to get in or out.
There are also daily flights to Dàlǐ (from ¥630) and Lìjiāng (¥450), as well as increasing numbers of flights that connect with cities across China via Kūnmíng. Lao Airlines has one direct flight a week from Jǐnghóng to Luang Prabang in Laos on Sunday (¥1264). At the time of writing, all flights from Jǐnghóng to Chiang Mai in Thailand were going via Kūnmíng. Travel agents all over town sell air tickets, or book online. Note that Jǐnghóng's airport is known as Xīshuāngbǎnnà.
Bus
The long-distance bus station (长途客运站; chángtú kèyùnzhàn GOOGLE MAP ; Minhang Lu) serves the following destinations and also has daily buses to Luang Nam Tha (¥70, five hours, 10.40am) and Huay Xai (¥150, eight hours, 6.50am) in Laos. Every other day, on even-numbered days, there is also a bus to Luang Prabang in Laos (¥180, 10 hours, 7.30am).
AJiànshuǐ ¥192 to ¥210, eight to nine hours, two daily (9.30am and 10.30am)
AKūnmíng ¥223 to ¥247, eight hours, six daily (8.30am, 10.30am, 12.30pm, 6.40pm, 8.10pm and 9.50pm)
ALìjiāng ¥257, 16 hours, one daily (9.30am)
ARuìlì ¥420, 22 hours, one daily (9am)
AXiàguān ¥210 to ¥230, 12 hours, two daily (8.30am and 10am)
If you want to explore Xīshuāngbǎnnà, go to the No 2 bus station (第二客运站; Dì’èr kèyùnzhàn GOOGLE MAP ), also known as the Bǎnnà bus station.
AGǎnlǎnbà ¥17, 40 minutes, every 20 minutes (7.40am to 7pm)
AMěnghǎi ¥15 to ¥20, 50 minutes, every 20 minutes (7am to 7pm)
AMěnglà ¥50, 2½ hours, every 30 minutes (6.30am to 5.20pm)
AMěnglún ¥21, 1½ hours, every 20 minutes (7am to 7pm)
AMěngyǎng ¥10, 40 minutes, every 30 minutes (8.30am to 6.30pm)
ASānchàhé ¥15, one hour, every 40 minutes (8am to 5pm)
ASīmáo ¥50, two hours, every 30 minutes (6.30am to 7.20pm)
For Měnghùn, take any bus to Měnghǎi and change there.
For buses to Dàměnglóng, head to the south bus station (客运南站; kèyùn nánzhàn GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Mengle Dadao and Menghai Lu), which also has departures to Kūnmíng.
If you want to get to the Yuányáng Rice Terraces, there is sometimes a direct bus from the long-distance bus station to Nánshà (¥178, seven to eight hours) in peak season (October to March), from where you can catch a minivan (¥10, one hour) to Xīnjiē. Otherwise, you'll have to catch the bus to Jiànshuǐ, where there is a daily bus to Xīnjiē and many more to Nánshà.
BORDER CROSSINGS: GETTING TO THAILAND
In the past, it was possible to travel by cargo boat to Chiang Saen in northern Thailand; the journey took around 24 hours. Piracy and drug-related violence has largely put an end to that adventurous route south, though. But you can ask about hitching a ride on a cargo boat. They leave from Guānleì (关累), about 75km southeast of Jǐnhóng. The Mekong Cafe can put you in touch with a boat captain. If you get a ride, expect to pay ¥800 to ¥1200 per person for the trip. Alternatively, head into Laos and then skip over the Thai border.
8Getting Around
Bus 1 (¥2) runs to the airport from a stop on Mengla Lu near the corner with Minhang Lu. A taxi will cost around ¥25 but expect to be hit up for more during festivals.
Jǐnghóng is small enough that you can walk to most destinations, but a bike makes life easier and can be rented from some hostels for ¥30 a day or from the bike hire shop ( GOOGLE MAP ; per day ¥50; h9am-9pm) on Manting Lu.
Taxi flag fall is ¥8, but you may struggle to get drivers to use their meters.
Around Jǐnghóng
Trekking (or travelling by bus) to the numerous minority villages is the draw here. You could spend weeks doing so, but even with limited time most destinations in Xīshuāngbǎnnà are only two or three hours away by bus. Note that to get to the most isolated villages, you’ll often first have to take the bus to a primary (and uninteresting) village and stay overnight there, since only one bus per day – if that – travels to the tinier villages.
Market addicts can rejoice – it’s an artist’s palette of colours in outlying villages. The most popular markets are the Thursday market in Xīdìng and Měnghùn's Saturday market. Měngyǎng is another popular village destination, thanks to its famous elephant-shaped banyan tree.
Take note: it can feel like every second village begins with the prefix ‘Meng’ and it isn’t unheard of for travellers to end up at the wrong village entirely because of communication problems. Have your destination written down in script before you head off.
Sānchàhé Nature Reserve (三岔河自然保护区; Sānchàhé Zìrán Bǎohùqū ¥5), 48km north of Jǐnghóng, is one of five enormous forest reserves in southern Yúnnán. It has an area of nearly 1.5 million hectares; seriously, treat it with respect – you get off-trail here, you won’t be found.
Located in the reserve, Bǎnnà Wild Elephant Valley (版纳野象谷; Bǎnnà Yěxiànggǔ ¥65) draws crowds eager to see the wild elephants indigenous to the area. The elephants are very retiring so you might not see any of them. You will see monkeys, though, and it’s worth a visit if you want to see something of the local forest. A 2km-long cable car (one way/return ¥50/70) runs over the tree tops from the main entrance into the heart of the park, as does an elevated walkway.
There is no accommodation in the park; it’s best to stay in Jǐnghóng. There are 10 buses daily to Sānchàhé (¥15, one hour, 8am to 5pm).
Měnghǎn 勐罕
%0691
Měnghǎn (勐罕), or Gǎnlǎnbà (橄榄坝) as it’s sometimes referred to, was once a grand destination – you’d bike here and chill. Sadly, much of the main attraction – the lovely, friendly, somnolent village itself – has basically been roped off as a quasi-minority theme park with tour buses and cacophonous dancing. That said, the environs of the village are still wondrous.
Dai Minority Park (傣族园; Dàizúyuán %0691 250 4099; Manting Lu; ¥65) was once the part of town that everyone in this region came to experience – especially for its classic temples and Dai families hosting visit
ors in their traditional homes. Now, it's a 'theme park' where visitors can spend the night in villagers’ homes and partake in water-splashing ‘festivals’ twice a day. Despite the artificial nature of it all, some people love the experience.
Restaurants inside the park are pricey and firmly aimed at tour groups. But you can also find restaurants on the road leading to the park.
Buses to Měnghǎn leave from Jǐnghóng’s No 2 bus station (¥17, every 20 minutes, 7.40am to 7pm). From Měnghǎn’s bus station, there are buses back to Jǐnghóng (¥17) every 20 minutes. The last bus leaves at 7.30pm. There's also one bus a day to Kūnmíng (¥255, nine hours, 6.30pm).
If there are no roadworks, it is possible to cycle from Jǐnghóng to Měnghǎn in a brisk two hours or a leisurely three hours, but the traffic is heavy.
You can rent a mountain bike from one of several bicycle shops along Manting Lu (¥30 per day).
Lonely Planet China Page 148