China Construction Bank ATMATM
(自动柜员机; Zìdòng Guìyuán Jī GOOGLE MAP ; outside bus station; 车站外面 h24hr)
China PostPOST
(中国邮政; Zhōngguó Yóuzhèng GOOGLE MAP ; 34 Yanhe Xilu; 沿河西路34号 h9am-5pm)
Public Security BureauVISA AGENCY
(PSB; 公安局; Gōng’ānjú GOOGLE MAP ; %0836 281 1415; 150 Dong Dajie; 东大街150号 h8.30am-5pm)
Visa-extension service that takes five working days. First-time extensions only.
8Getting There & Away
Air
Kāngdìng Airport is 43km west of town and has daily flights to Chéngdū (¥750, 8.35am and 5.40pm), two weekly flights to Chóngqìng (¥940, 12.05pm Sunday and Thursday), and one per week to Dàochéng (¥442, 9.10am Wednesday).
Buy tickets online or from the Flight Ticket Centre (机场售票中心; Jīchǎng Shòupiào Zhōngxīn GOOGLE MAP ; %0836 287 1111; 28 Binhe Lu, inside the Airport Hotel; 滨河路28号 h8.30am-5.30pm), which sometimes has tickets discounted by ¥100 or so. Pick up the airport shuttle (¥35, 1½ hours) at 6am in front of the Airport Hotel (also signed as the Xiang Yun Hotel – 翔云酒店 – from the street front). Shuttles from the airport (¥50) arrive here at around 11.30am.
Bus
Kāngdìng is a major transport hub in Sìchuān, and travellers can transfer from here to most of the province. The bus station ( GOOGLE MAP ) is a 10-minute walk north from the centre of town (a taxi there is ¥7). Shared minibuses also leave from outside the bus station to most western Sìchuān destinations listed here, including to Tǎgōng (¥50 to ¥80) and Gānzī (around ¥200). Ask for either private hire (包车; bāochē) or a shared vehicle (拼车; pīnchē).
ABáiyù ¥192, 20 hours, 6.45am (stops overnight in Gānzī; book the day before)
AChéngdū ¥111, eight hours, hourly from 6am to 4.30pm
AChóngqìng ¥240, 12 hours, 6.30am
ADānbā ¥55, three hours, two daily (7.30am, 2.30pm)
ADàochéng ¥124, 12 hours, two daily (both at 6am)
AÉméi Shān ¥122, seven hours, 8am
AGānzī ¥121, 11 hours, 6.15am
ALè Shān ¥114, seven hours, 6am
ALǐtáng ¥97, eight hours, 6.30am
ASèdá ¥131, 12 hours, 6.15am
ATǎgōng ¥38, three hours, 7am
AXiāngchéng ¥174, 15 hours, 6am
AYǎ’ān ¥70, 4½ hours, about every hour from 6am to 4pm
AZìgòng ¥170, nine hours, 6am
8Getting Around
While Kāngdìng is quite walkable, infrequent local buses do connect the major sites in town.
ABus 2 (¥1) runs straight through town from the bus station to the Jīngāng and Nánwú temples.
ABus 3 (¥1) goes from the bus station along Xinshi Qianjie to Wenchang Lu before continuing for 3km to Èrdào Hot Springs. The terminus is a few stops beyond the springs, so ask the driver where to disembark.
TIBET’S NO-GO REGIONS
Foreigners are forbidden from travelling individually overland from Sìchuān into Tibet proper (西藏; Xīzàng) as Tibet's far eastern prefecture of Chamdo (昌都地区; Chāngdū Dìqū), which borders Sìchuān, is usually off limits. During March (a time of holy celebrations and politically sensitive anniversaries), Tibet is often completely closed to foreigners. This closure has extended to Sìchuān’s Ābà and Gānzī Prefectures before as well, though not in recent years.
If the situation were to change, the town of Bātáng (due west of Lǐtáng) is a popular gateway into the province for locals in Southern Garzi Prefecture, while the stretch of highway between Dégé and Báiyù in the north of the prefecture has a score of bridges that enter Tibet via remote and rarely touristed rural regions.
Hostels keep up with the latest information, or check the China and Tibet branches of Lonely Planet’s online forum, Thorn Tree (www.lonelyplanet.com/thorntree).
Northern Garzê Prefecture
The famous Sìchuān–Tibet Hwy splits in two just west of Kāngdìng. The northern route is 300km longer than the southern route, and is generally less travelled. Following it, you’ll traverse high-plateau grasslands and numerous Tibetan settlements, usually attached to a local monastery.
Come here prepared. Bring warm clothing; it can be frigid at these elevations even in midsummer, and snow is not unheard of. Bus services can be unreliable. At times the government closes all or part of the region (particularly Larung Gar and Yarchen Gar) to foreign travellers with no notice beyond an entrance checkpoint with a soldier saying you won't be allowed in. This is no place to be in a hurry.
The payoff, however, comes in visiting remote Tibetan towns and monasteries, many of which carry on traditions that have existed in the region for centuries. This was once the realm of great kingdoms and marauding nomads – traces of these still exist if you search hard enough.
8Getting There & Away
Making it to the other side of Chola Mountain (雀儿山; Què’ér Shān) requires negotiating a 5050m narrow pass, the highest this side of Lhasa, that takes you to Dégé and the border with the Tibet Autonomous Region (西藏; Xīzàng) – a no-go region unless you've secured the extremely rare permit to enter via Chamdo Prefecture.
You can continue on this route north into Qīnghǎi province via Shíqú and Yùshù. From Gānzī, you can hook back up with the southern route via Xīnlóng.
Remember that bus services can be unreliable in the region – this is not the place to be on a tight schedule.
Báiyù 白玉
%0836 / Pop 6508 / Elev 3090m
Those looking to get a small taste of the spectacle of Buddhist village life can do so at Pelyul Gompa, a monastery encircled by a swath of small white houses clinging to the mountainside above the modern town of Báiyù (白玉) on the narrow floor of the gorge below. From the top of a large white stupa on the edge of the modern settlement, a panorama of gleaming monasteries and bright white houses opens up above.
1Sights
Pelyul GompaBUDDHIST MONASTERY
(白玉祖寺; Báiyù Zǔsì )F
A remote settlement in the mountains of the former Tibetan province of Kham, here you can get a semblance of the spectacle of monastic life through a visit to Báiyù Sì (Baiyul; 3150m), a small monastery village of striking beauty. Wander the temples and observe the 200 monks living here, then explore the maze of lanes that wind among the red and white houses clinging to the hillside.
The original monastery, built in 1665, grew to be one of the six most influential monasteries of the Nyingma (Red Hat) sect. It has been restored and rebuilt several times, and at its height had more than 1000 monks before it was destroyed during the Cultural Revolution. The monastery was rebuilt in 1982 with a combination of private and government funds.
The monastery has a small printing operation in a building just uphill from the main halls. On the 2nd floor, you can watch carvers create delicate script in reverse as they cut away intricate designs out of small wooden blocks.
The monastery village infrastructure remains rudimentary; raw sewage flows onto the paths after rains. There are no restaurants or guesthouses, so head back down into the modern town below.
From the Báiyù bus station the temple is a 2km slog uphill through the lanes of the modern city, or accessible by car via a steep paved road on the northern edge of town.
4Sleeping & Eating
Yăruì BīnguănHOTEL$$
(雅瑞宾馆 %153 8766 7529; Binhe Lu; 滨河路 r ¥100-200)
Yăruì Bīnguăn is on a quiet stretch of the riverfront. The rooms here (all with private bathroom) are clean and range from singles to triples. More expensive rooms include a large sitting area or overlook the river. From the traffic light, walk a few metres towards the river and turn right onto the promenade. It's a few doors down, on the 2nd floor.
Kăwăkăbù ZàngcānTIBETAN$
(卡瓦卡布藏餐 %135 4146 9948; Hedong Shangjie; 河东上街 mains from ¥12; h8am-11pm)
D
espite the lack of menus, ordering here is easy as the friendly Tibetan family drag you by the arm back into the kitchen for a look. Don't think too hard, though: the momos (牛肉包子; ¥2 each) are fantastic, among the best to be had anywhere in the Kham.
8Getting There & Away
Buses depart from the new Báiyù station a 15-minute walk south of town for Kāngdìng (¥183, 18 hours, 6am) via Gānzī (¥80, 7½ hours).
Minibuses are the only options for Dégé (¥80, four hours), Lǐtáng (¥190, nine hours) and Yàqīng (¥50, three hours).
Dānbā 丹巴
%0836 / Pop 56,829 / Elev 1893m
Dānbā (丹巴; known as Rongtrak in Tibet; 1893m) straddles a dramatic gorge near the confluence of three rivers, and makes an interesting alternative to Kāngdìng as a gateway into or out of western Sìchuān.
The town itself is not very exciting, but in the surrounding hills are clusters of picturesque Jiāróng Tibetan and Qiāng villages with ancient watchtowers and welcoming homestays.
1Sights
oZhōnglùVILLAGE
(中路 )
Comparatively remote Zhōnglù, 13km from Dānbā, is a popular village for homestays and a good base for wandering through the countryside. Look for the old stone steps that climb above the village for fantastic views of the countryside and Zhōnglù's many watchtowers.
To get here, catch a minibus from a small parking lot across from 42 Sanchahe Nanlu (¥15, 25 minutes), about 10 minutes' walk from the hostels, or take a taxi (¥80). Minibuses return from the village to Dānbā until around 6pm.
Jiǎjū ZàngzhàiVILLAGE
(甲居藏寨 adult/student ¥50/25)
Of all the pretty villages in the hills around here, Dānbā tourism’s pride and joy is Jiǎjū, 12km northwest of town and perched at the top of a multi-switchback road that winds up a steep river gorge. With fruit trees, charming Tibetan stone houses and homestays, Jiǎjū's quaint architecture will pull in travellers for a half-day (or more) visit.
To get here, take a shared minivan (¥10) from the Bāměi end of Dānbā. A private taxi costs about ¥50 one way.
4Sleeping
Dōngpō Tibetan HomestayGUESTHOUSE$
(东坡藏家; Dōngpō Zángjiā %135 5850 9707; Zhonglu Xiang, Kegenong Cun; 中路乡克格侬村 r incl meals without/with bathroom ¥80/100; pW)
Spend a night or two in this converted white-stone and crimson-timber homestead, the original structure of which dates back more than 700 years, so that you have time to partake in the multicourse meals (breakfast and dinner are included in room rates) and wander the surrounding countryside.
Zháxī Zhuōkāng Backpackers HostelHOTEL$
(扎西卓康国际青年旅舍; Zháxī Zhuōkāng Guójì Qīngnián Lǚshě %139 9046 4961, 0836 352 1806; 35 Sanchahe Nanlu; 三岔河南路35号 dm ¥30-50, tw without/with bathroom ¥60/80; iW)
This is traveller central in Dānbā proper; the friendly English-speaking management can arrange minibus rides and extended treks to natural springs and remote villages off the tourist map. Rooms are decidedly average but tidy, while the common area is recently renovated. It’s a 25-minute walk from the bus station (keep the river on your left), or a ¥5 taxi ride.
8Getting There & Away
For Tǎgōng, take a minibus (¥65, three hours) from the west end of town, via Bāměi (¥40, two hours). Minibuses also head to Four Sisters Mountain (¥50, three hours) via Xiăojīn (¥30, two hours). Bus destinations include:
AChéngdū ¥135, nine hours, two daily (6.30am, 10am)
AGānzī ¥101, nine hours, one daily (6.50am)
AKāngdìng ¥54, 3½ hours, two daily (6.30am, 3pm)
Dégé 德格
%0836 / Pop 58,600 / Elev 3334m
With roads improved and mountain tunnels nearly complete, once-remote Dégé (德格; Derge) is no longer quite so cut off from the rest of western Sìchuān by the towering Chola Mountain (雀儿山; Què’ér Shān; 6168m).
While for now the road still climbs a rough dirt track over the 5050m-high Chola Pass, soon even this last hurdle to access will be circumvented by a tunnel scheduled to be finished in mid-2017.
Unless you’ve secured the rare permit to enter the Chamdo Prefecture of Tibet proper (西藏; Xīzàng), the main reason to make the arduous trek out here is to see Dégé’s famous printing monastery, one of this region’s premier sights.
1Sights
The Bakong Scripture Printing Press and Monastery is just above the centre of town, but further along the road uphill beyond it you’ll reach the huge, reconstructed Gonchen Monastery (德格寺; Dégé Sì Bagong Jie; 巴宫街 h6am-8pm), which has stood here in various forms for over five centuries. High in the mountains to the south and east are several other monasteries that make for compelling day hikes, including Palpung Gompa, Dzongsar Gompa and Pewar Gompa.
oBakong Scripture Printing Press & MonasteryBUDDHIST MONASTERY, HISTORIC SITE
(德格印经院; Dégé Yìnjīngyuàn www.degeparkhang.org; Bagong Jie; 巴宫街 ¥50; h8.30-11.50am & 2-6pm)
This fascinating 1792 monastery houses one of western Sìchuān’s star attractions: an ongoing printing operation that still uses traditional woodblock printing methods and maintains more than 320,000 scripture plates, an astonishing 70% of Tibet’s literary heritage. You aren’t allowed to take photos of the library shelves or main hall, but ask the printers if it's OK to snap away as they meditatively fill customers' orders.
4Sleeping
Fēnglíngdù International Youth HostelGUESTHOUSE$
(风陵渡国际青年旅舍; Fēnglíngdù Guójì Qīngnián Lǚshě %150 0248 8791; 243 Chamashang Jie; 茶马上街243号 dm ¥30, r ¥150; W)
Travellers looking for a welcoming hostel vibe in Dégé need look no further. Lorna, the friendly owner from Liáoníng, speaks some English and keeps her rooms spick and span. It's on the highway from Mǎnígāngē. When entering town keep an eye out for the sign on the left about 300m in, or walk back about 20 minutes from the bus station.
Dégé HotelHOTEL$$
(德格宾馆; Dégé Bīnguǎn %0836 822 6666; 11 Gesa'er Dajie; 格萨尔大街11号 r from ¥380; aW)
This standard, reliable hotel is in a big building by the river near the bus station. All rooms have private baths and some even have nice mountain views. Turn left out of the bus station, cross the bridge, and follow the signs to turn right down the lane into the hotel courtyard. Rooms can be discounted to ¥190.
5Eating
Kāngbā ZàngcānTIBETAN$
(康巴藏餐 %139 9049 9806; Chamashang Jie; 茶马上街 dishes ¥15-40; h9am-10pm)
This Tibetan teahouse serves authentic Tibetan food, plus tea and beer. There’s a picture menu, but if you're stumped try one of these Tibetan favourites: yak-meat pie (牛肉饼; niúròu bǐng; ¥30), yak-meat momos (¥20), tsampa (¥10) and butter tea (from ¥15). Very little English is spoken. Turn left out of the bus station; it’s across the intersection on the 2nd floor.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Syokar TeahouseTEAHOUSE
(萨噶茶; Sàgá Cháguăn h9am-9pm; W)
The people-watching from this 2nd-floor teahouse overlooking the river is just as much a draw as the tea and Tibetan snacks (from ¥15) on the menu. It's the first building on the left just across the bridge to the Bakong Monastery.
8Getting There & Away
Just one daily eastbound bus leaves from here at 6am, heading for Kāngdìng (¥206, 13 hours) via Mǎnígāngē (¥39, 2½ hours) and Gānzī (¥71, four hours). Otherwise there are minivans to Gānzī (¥80) and Mǎnígāngē (¥60).
Minibuses to Báiyù (¥90, two hours), though less reliably available, enable a loop back towards Gānzī via several small monastery towns; for the first hour or so of the trip the highway traces the Yangzi River border with Tibet and pays off in views towards the small hamlets and towering mountains just beyond.
Foreigners are not allowed to take public transport west from here into Tibet proper.
DON'T MISS
/> DARJAY GOMPA
Darjay GompaMONASTERY
(大金寺; Dàjīn Sì )F
One of the largest and most venerated monasteries in the prefecture; the reasoning behind the name 'Big Golden Temple' becomes apparent as soon as it appears on the horizon. There are two large halls surrounded by a small village. Darjay Gompa is 30km west of Gānzī on the road to Mǎnígāngē. It costs around ¥20 to get here from Gānzī in a shared minivan, at least ¥40 in a private taxi.
You may have to track down a monk to unlock (开门; kāimén) the temple halls. Keep an eye out for the fantastic sand mandalas the monks make from time to time.
A short walk from the Darjay Gompa is the Talam Khang guesthouse and temple (大金寺旅馆; Dàjīn Sì Lǚguǎn %187 8366 2272; camping & dm ¥50, d/tw ¥100/200), with snowcapped mountains to one side, and rolling grasslands and a river to the other. To get here from Darjay Gompa, exit from the monastery's back gate and walk about 15 minutes along the dirt road. Walk towards the white stupa furthest on the left, keeping the grassland villages on your right. You'll see the temple as you come over the hill.
Gānzī 甘孜
%0836 / Pop 68,523 / Elev 3475m
It’s easy to spend a couple of days in the lively market town of Gānzī (甘孜; Garzê) exploring the beautiful countryside, which is scattered with Tibetan villages and large monasteries surrounded by snowcapped mountains. Photo opportunities abound, especially from late July to October when the grassland is an impossible green accented with wildflowers in bloom.
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