The Chóngqìng area is famed for its hot springs, and Ronghui is the most popular and easily accessible hot spring spa inside the city limits. Visitors in swimsuits stroll the lushly landscaped grounds sampling dozens of spring-fed indoor and outdoor pools, some steeped with medicinal Chinese herbs, others luridly coloured and scented. Wandering pedicurists will be happy to service your tootsies as you lounge on a chaise or on the heated 'lava rock beds'. Massages start at ¥139 for 50 minutes.
There's a kid's water playground, but most families seem to just take the little ones right in the hot springs with them, inflatable duckies and all.
To get here, take the 224 bus from Shapingba station, or get a taxi to drop you off in front of the Radisson Blu next door. The Radisson is the best place to pick up a taxi after you're finished as well.
oYangzi River Cable CarCABLE CAR
(长江索道; Chángjiāng Suǒdào MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jiefang Donglu, 解放东路 one-way ¥10; h7am-10pm; mXiǎoshízì, exit 5)
A ride on the creaky old Yangzi River cable car is slightly disconcerting, but gives you a wonderful bird’s-eye view of the murky waters and the cityscape beyond. It drops you off near the riverside bar and restaurant strip on Nan’an Binjiang Lu.
CITY RIVER CRUISES
Chóngqìng looks best from the water, especially at night when the city flashes with neon. The so-called two-river cruises last for 60 to 90 minutes, leaving every afternoon (2pm to 3pm) and evening (7pm to 8pm) from Cháotiānmén Dock, and can be a fun way of getting an alternative view of this unique metropolis.
There are a number of boats offering the same service. The difference in prices reflects the quality and age of the boats. Cháotiāngōng (朝天宫; Cháotiāngōng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Chaotianmen Guangchang; 朝天门广场 evening cruise ¥136), Cháotiānmén (朝天门; Cháotiānmén MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Chaotianmen Guangchang; 朝天门广场 evening cruise ¥158) and Jīnbì Huánggōng (金碧皇宫; Jīnbìhuánggōng MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Chaotianmen Guangchang; 朝天门广场 evening cruise ¥138) were the three most popular boats at time of research. Although there are cruises every day, not all boats run daily. The boats have no English signs and very little English is spoken. You can eat on board, although menus are in Chinese only and the food is pretty expensive (dishes ¥30 to ¥80). Prices listed are for evening cruises, which are much more popular (and more worthwhile). Expect to get tickets for as little as ¥40 to ¥50 for an afternoon cruise. Buy your tickets from the end of the jetty leading to the boat in question, or at any number of ticket sellers around town.
4Sleeping
Chóngqìng has an enormous variety of sleeping options, from top-end international brands to backpacker hostels. Since the city attracts relatively few tourists, prices vary little throughout the year. Jiefangbei is the most central neighbourhood for sightseeing and eating; many of the best 'deals' on hotels found online mean you'll wind up in a far-flung business district.
oTravelling With HostelHOSTEL$
(瓦舍; Wǎshě MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %023 6310 4270; 4th fl, Yuya Bldg, 7 Zhongxing Lu; 中兴路7号渝亚大厦4楼 dm ¥64-95, tw/d/d with bath ¥280/290/325; aiW; mJiàochǎngkǒu, exit 4)
Still sometimes known by its former name, 'Green Forest Hostel', Travelling With is much nicer than its location, in a 4th-floor walk-up of a commercial building, might suggest. It's the only hostel in Chóngqìng with a reliably social bar and common area, populated largely by young Chinese travellers. Friendly employees speak good English and are happy to help you book train tickets or tours. Rooms run the gamut from eight-person mixed dorms to doubles with private baths.
Deck 88 HostelHOSTEL$
(桃亭国际青年旅舍; Táotíng Guójì Qīngnián Lǚshě MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %023 6281 7796; 88 Jiabin Lu; 嘉滨路88号 dm/d ¥65/190-260; aiW; mXiǎoshízì)
This clean and pleasant hostel right on the riverfront sees more Chinese travellers than foreigners. Dorms are poky, but the private rooms are a decent deal for this part of town. Staff are friendly, although there's not much English spoken, and there's an amenable communal area with a bar.
To get here, take the lift at the Hóngyádòng complex on Cangbai Lu down to the ground floor, turn left and walk for 75m.
Sunrise Míngqīng HostelCOURTYARD HOTEL$
(尚悦明清客栈; Shàngyuè Míngqīng Kèzhàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %023-6393 1579; www.cqsunrisemingqing.hostel.com; 23 Xiahong Xuexiang, down the steps from 26 Jiefang Donglu; 下洪学巷23号, 解放东路26中对面 dm ¥69, tw & d from ¥300; aiW; mXiǎoshízì)
This renovated Qing dynasty courtyard hotel isn't a true hostel – there’s no restaurant or cafe – but remains an atmospheric place to stay. Rooms are beautifully decorated but, like all courtyard places, they are dark and small, and guests complain about maintenance issues like broken bathroom lights. It can also be accessed by climbing the steep alley just to the west of Húguǎng Guild Hall.
SomersetHOTEL$$
(盛捷解放碑服务公寓; Shèng Jié Jiěfàng Bēi Fúwù MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %023 8677 6888; www.somerset.com/en/china/chongqing/somerset_jiefangbei.html; 108 Minzu Road, 9F, Block B, Hejing Bldg; 民族路108号合景大厦B栋 ste from ¥500; aiWs; mXiǎoshízì)
If you're staying in Chóngqìng more than a day or two and hostels don't appeal, consider this welcoming suite hotel, perched high above the noise of central Jiefangbei. Clean, spacious, modern suites, from studios to one- and two-bedroom apartments, come with kitchenettes and laundry machines. The large number of long-term international guests means there are communal activities, like Friday movie nights, not found in traditional hotels.
Xīnhuá HotelHOTEL$$
(新华酒店; Xīnhuá Jiǔdiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %023 6355 7777; 9 Qingnian Lu; 青年路9号 tw from ¥828; aiW; mJiàochǎngkǒu)
This smallish, Chinese-style hotel has elegant, low-lit interior with spacious, well-equipped rooms (TV, fridge, safe) but tiny bathrooms. Some English spoken. A stone’s throw from Liberation Monument so about as central as it gets. Routine 40% discounts make it a fair choice.
Hóngyádòng HotelHOTEL$$
(洪崖洞大酒店; Hóngyádòng Dàjiǔdiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %023 6399 2888; www.hongyadong-hotel.com; 56 Cangbai Lu; 沧白路56号 tw & d from ¥650; aiW; mXiǎoshízì)
Sitting atop the massive Hóngyádòng tourism complex, this faux Chóngqìng stilt-house-style hotel hugs the cliffside overlooking the Jiālíng River. Rooms are big and well maintained, some with balconies and river views, and there are plenty of bars and restaurants just below you. Reception is on the 11th floor of the complex. Discounts (up to 30%) are generally available.
Harbour PlazaHOTEL$$$
(重庆海逸酒店; Chóngqìng Hǎiyì Jiǔdiàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %023-6370 0888; www.harbour-plaza.com; Wuyi Lu; 五一路 tw & d from ¥888; aiWs; mJiàochǎngkǒu)
Smart and large rooms at this centrally located and popular hotel. All come with wide-screen TV, fridge and safe. Wi-fi throughout and proper bathrooms. English spoken and the travel desk on the 3rd floor can help with Yangzi River cruises. Up to 50% discounts are often available.
PRICE RANGES
SLEEPING
$ less than ¥200
$$ ¥200–¥500
$$$ more than ¥500
EATING
$ less than ¥50
$$ ¥50–¥80
$$$ more than ¥80
5Eating
Chóngqìng is all about hotpot (火锅; huǒguō): a fiery cauldron of head-burning làjiāo (辣椒; chillies) and mouth-numbing huājiāo (花椒; Sìchuān peppers) into which is dipped deliciously fresh ingredients, from vegetables and tofu to all types of fish and meat. It’s a dish best sampled with a group. Indeed, hotpot restaurants tend to be among the liveliest you’ll find.
As well as the local noodle dishes, another great thing to sample in Chóngqìng is shāokǎo (烧烤; barbecue skewers), the perfect point-and-eat street food. Just choose your skewers, hand them over and wait for them to come back spiced and grilled. Select from dòufu pí (豆
腐皮; tofu skin), xiǎo mántou (小馒头; mini steamed rolls), niángāo (年糕; sticky rice cake), qiézi (茄子; eggplant/aubergine), and jiǔcài (韭菜; leek), among other ingredients.
Shāokǎo barbeque spots are found all over the city. Most shāokǎo places in Chóngqìng also do bowls of pigs brain (脑花; nǎohuā) as a side dish. We dare you.
Mang Hot PotHOTPOT$
(莽子老火锅; Mǎngzi Lǎo Huǒguō MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %023 6371 8492; Zhongxing Lu, 10 Wangyeshibao; 中兴路王爷石堡10号 dipping ingredients ¥6-26; h11am-2am)
A real locals' fave with some of the tastiest (and spiciest) hotpot in town. You sit on wooden benches around your table and bubbling broth. Expect to see male diners with their shirts off, beer bottles close to hand. It's just up the alley at the end of Qingnian Lu in the midst of the flower market on the left-hand side. There's a wooden sign with English and a picture of a man. No English menu, but the friendly staff will do their best to assist.
Liúyīshǒu HuǒguōHOTPOT$
(刘一手火锅 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %023 6161 8555; 46 Cangbai Lu, 3rd fl; 沧白路46号南国丽景大夏3楼 dipping ingredients ¥5-34; h10am-midnight; mXiaoshizi)
The hotpot here is excellent, and the atmosphere is congenial, but the real attraction is the view; you dine as you gaze out across the Jiālíng River. You’ll be pushed to find a river-view table at peak eating times, so perhaps come earlier or later than you’d usually eat. Take the lift to the right of Motel 168.
Zhào’èr HuǒguōHOTPOT$
(赵二火锅 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %023 6671 1569; 128 Jiefang Donglu, 3rd fl; 解放东路128号世纪龙门大夏三楼 dipping ingredients ¥4-36; h11am-2pm & 5.30pm-midnight)
Highly popular, Zhào’èr’s hotpot is rightly lauded. There are various options: the nine-sectioned pot (九宫锅; jiǔgōng guō) allows you to separate the flavours of your raw ingredients (ideal if one of you is vegetarian), although the broth is shared; while the two-sectioned yuānyang guō (鸳鸯锅) has a clear broth that is separated completely from the spicy one.
oZēng Lǎo Yāo Yú ZhuāngHOTPOT$$
(曾老幺鱼庄 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %023 6392 4315; Changbin Lu; 长滨路 mains from ¥38-68; h24hr)
Outside, it's a seething mass of people crowded around tables. Inside, it's even more packed as you descend into a former bomb shelter – white-tiled walls and a rock roof. This Chóngqìng institution is a unique, utilitarian dining experience, with all stratum of society in search of the signature fish dish (鲫鱼; jíyú; carp) and the simply sublime spare ribs (排骨; páigǔ).
Xiǎo Bīn LōuSICHUAN$$
(小滨楼 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %023-6383 8858; Riyueguang Zhongxin Guangchang, 4th fl, 89 Minquan Lu; 民权路89号日月光中心广场4层 set menu ¥50-78; h11.30am-2pm & 5.30-8.30pm)
A gentle introduction to Chóngqìng cuisine, especially good for the spice-averse. Choose from a selection of small-sized dishes on display, or better still go for one of the set menus, either six or eight dishes. It's on the 4th floor of a semi-defunct-seeming shopping mall, but the interior is a spacious approximation of an old Chóngqìng eatery.
Suzie's PizzaPIZZA$$
(苏蕊比; Sū Ruǐ Bǐ %023 6531 2929; Three Gorges Sq, 12th fl, UME Bldg; room 27 沙坪坝三峡广场玄地广场 pizza from ¥28-55; h11am-10pm; mShapingba)
English-speaking Suzie makes what many regard as the best pizza in town. The location, in a renovated apartment on the 12th floor of a residential tower, adds to the charm, as do the fake brick walls and pictures of loyal customers chowing down on cheesy, gooey pies. To get here, enter the building lobby to the right of the McDonald's in Shapingba's Three Gorges Sq, and go to the second elevator lobby to get to the 12th floor.
CHóNGQìNG NOODLES
Chóngqìngers are particularly fond of noodles and you’ll find noodle joints all over the region. They rarely have English menus or signs – just look for the character 面 (miàn; noodles) and you’re good to go.
Specialities here include xiǎomiàn (小面) or málà xiǎomiàn (麻辣小面) – often eaten for breakfast despite being very spicy – and liángmiàn (凉面), which are delicious despite being served cold. Noodles in Chóngqìng are served by the liǎng (两; 50g). Two-liǎng (二两; èr liǎng) or three-liǎng (三两; sān liǎng) portions are most common. Expect to pay between ¥6 and ¥10 for a bowl. Remember: wǒ néng chī làde (I can handle spicy food); bù yào tài là (not too spicy, please).
MENU DECODER
Amálà xiǎomiàn (麻辣小面; spicy noodles)
Aliángmiàn (凉面; cold noodles)
Aniúròu miàn (牛肉面; beef noodles)
Ajīdàn miàn (鸡蛋面; egg noodles)
Asuānlà fěn (酸辣粉; tangy glass noodles)
Aféicháng miàn (肥肠面; pig intestine noodles)
6Drinking & Nightlife
There are a string of riverside bars (酒吧; jiǔbā), cafes and restaurants on Nan’an Binjiang Lu (南岸滨江路); take the cable car over the Yangzi, then walk down to the river and turn left. From there, walk 15 minutes along the river or hop on any bus for one stop. Note: the cable car stops running at 10pm.
Dé Yǐ Shì Jiè (得以世界) is a public square surrounded by tacky bars, karaoke joints and the city’s biggest nightclubs.
For traditional teahouses, head to Cíqìkǒu Ancient Town and look for signs for 茶园 (cháyuán; tea garden).
oCici ParkBAR
(西西公园; Xīxī Gōngyuán MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 1st fl, Hongyadong, Jiabin Lu; 洪崖洞, 嘉滨路 beer from ¥15; h5pm-late; mXiaoshizi)
The most amenable bar in Chóngqìng, Cici’s has a very chilled vibe and bohemian furnishings. Beers are affordable, mixers start at ¥30 and sometimes there are DJs and live music. It attracts a mixed crowd of both locals and expats, some of whom like to roll their own cigarettes.
Cliff's BarBAR
(卡里佛咖啡吧; Kǎlǐfú Kāfēibā MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %13996296775; Hóngyá Cave, 10th fl, Jiefengbei; 洪崖洞10楼 h5pm-2am; mXiǎoshízì)
A party-happy mix of locals and foreigners down beers and cocktails at this convivial two-story bar, on the 10th floor of the Hóngyá Cave complex. The dim interior is hung with international flags, and a rock band is usually jamming next to the bar.
Harp Irish PubBAR
(竖琴爱尔兰酒吧; Shùqín Ài'ěrlán Jiǔbā %023-6880 0136; www.harpcq.com; Chóngqìng Tiāndì; 化龙桥重庆天地 draught beers from ¥35; h2pm-2am; W)
Not much to do with the Emerald Isle, but by far the best spot in town to catch live sport, especially the English Premier League, NBA and NFL. Strong selection of foreign brews and decent pub grub: fish and chips, pizzas, burgers and salads, as well as reasonable Mexican dishes. Also has a pool table and is nonsmoking.
It's located in a new complex of bars and restaurants a ¥25 taxi ride from the centre. There's another, smaller branch on the 9th floor of the Hóngyá Cave complex.
HOTPOT MENU
The best hotpot restaurants are entirely local affairs so you have about as much chance of finding an English menu as you have of being able to eat the thing without your nose running. (Do not underestimate a hotpot’s bite. This part of China is renowned for fiery food, and it doesn’t come spicier than hotpot.)
As with many dishes in Chóngqìng, the first thing to establish when ordering hotpot is how hot you want it – bù là (不辣; not spicy, but in Chóngqìng this will still be spicy), wēi là (微辣; mildly spicy), zhōng là (中辣; medium spicy), zuì là (最辣; very spicy) and jiā má jiā là (加麻加辣; extra, extra spicy).
Then you’ll be given a menu checklist of raw ingredients that you will later cook in your pot. Here are some of our favourites for you to look out for on the menu:
Ayángròu juǎn (羊肉卷; wafer-thin lamb slices)
Aféi niúròu (肥牛肉; beef slices)
Axiān máodǔ (鲜毛肚; fresh tripe, usually lamb)
Axiān yācháng (鲜鸭肠; strips of duck intestine)
Alǎo dòu
fu (老豆腐; tofu slabs)
Aǒu piàn (藕片; slices of lotus root)
Axiān huánghuā (鲜黄花; chrysanthemum stalks)
Atǔ dòu (土豆; potato slices)
Abǎi cài (百菜; cabbage leaves)
Amù’ěr (木耳; mushroom)
Akōngxīn cài; (空心菜; water spinach)
3Entertainment
Nuts Live HouseLIVE MUSIC
(坚果; Jiān Guǒ MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %133 5037 9029; https://site.douban.com/nutslivehouse/; Xinhua Rd, Deyi Fashion Mall, B1-21; 渝中区得意世界负一楼 beers from ¥15; h7pm-2am; mJiàochǎngkǒu)
Fabulous, below-ground club that's the place to catch live music. Local bands take to the stage every weekend, but it also hosts any act of note passing through town. Live music carries a ¥30 cover charge.
Chóngqìng Sìchuān Opera HouseTHEATRE
(重庆市川剧院; Chóngqìngshì Chuānjùyuàn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %023-6371 0153; 76 Jintang Jie; 金汤街76号 tickets ¥20; h2pm Sat)
Holds a 2½-hour performance of Sìchuān opera every Saturday afternoon.
7Shopping
For top-name brands, head to the glitzy shopping malls around the Liberation Monument (解放碑; Jiěfàngbēi MAP GOOGLE MAP ). For souvenirs, try the unashamedly touristy 3rd floor of Hóngyá Cave, or head to Cíqìkǒu Ancient Town.
Lonely Planet China Page 162