ACherchen ¥323 to ¥343, 22 to 24 hours, daily at 7pm
AHotan ¥370 to ¥390, 24 hours, hourly from 2pm, last bus at 8.30pm
AKashgar ¥260 to ¥280, 24 hours, 10 buses per day between 10.40am and 8pm
AKuqa ¥150 to ¥215, 12 to 13 hours, every 30 minutes in the afternoon only
ATurpan ¥45, 2½ hours, every 20 minutes
A seat in a shared taxi to Turpan costs ¥85 and takes around two hours; drivers can be found outside the bus station.
Bus 51 or 7 will get you to the south bus station from Hóngshān Intersection. BRT bus 3 will get you here from the South Lake Square (via People's Sq) .
Tourists buses to Tiān Chí ( GOOGLE MAP ; return ¥50) leave from the northern end of People's Park.
Train
Ürümqi's giant, super-modern High-Speed Railway Station ( GOOGLE MAP ; Shayibake 沙依巴克区 ) opened in mid-2016, and is now where all high-speed services to the city depart and arrive. The high-speed line stretches all the way to Lánzhōu, from where it's possible to connect to the rest of the Chinese high-speed rail network. Travel times have plummeted and rail travel in the region has never been so comfortable or convenient. Destinations from here include multiple daily services to Turpan (1st/2nd class ¥74/49, one hour), Hāmì (1st/2nd class ¥196/164, three hours) and Lánzhōu (1st/2nd class ¥626/514, 11 hours).
Ürümqi South (乌鲁木齐南站 GOOGLE MAP ; Yashan Beilu), the city's old train station, handles all non-high-speed services to and from the regional capital, including services to the south of Xīnjiāng, as well as international connections to Kazakhstan.
Both stations are surrounded by an incredible number of security points, passport checks, ticket controls and X-ray points – even by local standards. Do give yourself plenty of time to get to either station before catching your train.
The following regular train routes depart from Ürümqi South, with hard/soft sleeper ticket prices:
ABěijīng ¥566/915, 31½ to 39½ hours, two daily
AHotan ¥316/553, 25 hours, one daily
AKashgar ¥303/494 16¾ to 24½ hours, four daily
AKuqa ¥194/285, eight to 12½ hours, six daily
AYīníng ¥132/237, 6½ to 10 hours, six daily
BORDER CROSSING: GETTING TO KAZAKHSTAN
Now that Kazakhstan no longer requires visas for most visitors, it's far easier to get on-board the daily 7pm bus to Almaty (upper/lower bunk ¥440/460, 24 hours) departing from Ürümqi International Bus Station (乌鲁木齐国际运输汽车站; Wūlǔmùqí Guójì Yùnshū Qìchēzhàn GOOGLE MAP ; %0991 587 8637; Heilongjiang Lu), next to the main bus station. Be at the bus station no later than 6pm and expect hold-ups lasting several hours at the Korgas customs post. A longer but more pleasant trip is to break the journey in Yīníng.
Trains currently depart Ürümqi twice weekly for Almaty, Kazakhstan (K9795, via Ālāshānkǒu), on Monday and Saturday at midnight. The journey takes a slow 33 hours, six of which are spent at Chinese and Kazakh customs. Hard/soft sleepers cost ¥892/1020.
There is also a Thursday service (9797) to the Kazakh capital of Astana leaving at midnight. Hard/soft sleepers cost ¥892/1094.
Tickets can only be purchased in the lobby of the Yà’ōu Jiǔdiàn (next to the train station), at the booking office (往阿拉木图火车票售票处; Wǎng Ālāmùtú Huǒchēpiào Shòupiàochù GOOGLE MAP ; h10am-1pm & 3.30-6pm Mon, Wed, Thu & Sat). The booking office regulations are worth noting: on Monday you can buy same-day train tickets; Wednesday and Thursday you can buy tickets for the next Saturday and Monday; Saturday you buy same-day tickets and tickets for next Monday.
If you are unlucky enough to need a visa for Kazakhstan (most Westerners can travel there visa-free these days), you can apply for a 30-day tourist visa at the Kazakhstan Consulate (哈萨克斯坦共和国驻; Hāsàkè Sītǎn Gònghéguó Zhù %0991 369 1444; 216 Kunming Lu; h9am-1pm Mon-Fri) in Ürümqi. Visas take five days to be issued, cost US$25 and you need one passport photo and copy of your passport and China visa. Visas generally specify your entry date into Kazakhstan. If possible, apply for a visa in Běijīng or your home country.
8Getting Around
The airport is 16km northwest of the centre; a taxi to central Ürümqi costs about ¥40 to ¥50, though avoid the touts inside the terminal and head for the official taxi stand outside, where drivers will automatically use a meter. An airport bus (¥10) runs straight south through town via Hóngshān Intersection to the train station every 30 minutes. In the city centre, an airport shuttle (¥15, free for China Southern passengers) leaves from the Southern Airlines Pearl International Hotel every 30 minutes starting at 7.30am. You’ll need to arrive at least 10 minutes earlier to get a seat.
A subway system was under construction at the time of writing and was proving massively disruptive to traffic flow in the city. Its first line is expected to open in 2019, and will connect the airport to the city centre and then to the south bus station.
The fastest and most useful buses are the BRT (Bus Rapid Transit) expresses, which dodge traffic by having their very own bus lanes. Sadly they're very hard for travellers to use as maps and signage are posted only in Chinese and Uighur. BRT 1 runs from the railway station to Hóngshān Intersection and then north up Beijing Nanlu. BRT 3 runs from the south bus station to People's Sq and the South Lake Sq. Fares are a flat ¥1, drop a ¥1 note into the box at the ticket gates.
Other useful buses (¥1, pay the driver as you board, no change given) include bus 7, which runs up Xinhua Lu from the south bus station through the Xīdàqiáo and Hóngshān Intersections, and bus 52 from the train station to Hóngshān Intersection.
Taxis are everywhere and cost a standard ¥10 per journey for the first few kilometres, rising quickly after that.
Tiān Chí 天池
The rugged Tiān Shān range was well known to travellers along the northern Silk Road, who had to traverse its southern edge if they had any hope of making progress. Modern travellers have it far easier and plan trips into the mountains for fun, especially to stunning Tiān Chí (天池). This high-altitude lake is extremely popular (to the point that many old Xīnjiāng hands stay away in despair at the all-encompassing nature of mass Chinese tourism here), but you can still escape the worst of the crowds, who either stick to the paved paths on the northern end or ride overpriced boats across the lake. Stay overnight to get a few hours of quiet in the morning before the tour buses arrive.
Tiān Chí LakeLAKE
(天池; Heaven Lake ¥100)
Two thousand metres up in the Tiān Shān range is Tiān Chí, a small, long, steely-blue lake nestled below the view-grabbing 5445m Peak of God (博格达峰; Bógédá Fēng). Scattered across the alpine pine and spruce-covered slopes are Kazakh yurts and lots of sheep. It was a paradise described in Vikram Seth’s wonderful travelogue From Heaven Lake; and still is for some.
In late May, Kazakhs set up yurts around the lake for tourists at ¥50 to ¥80 per person in a shared yurt for up to 10 people; English-speaking Rashit (%138 9964 1550; twin ¥150, with meals ¥200) is a popular host for backpackers and can arrange for a car to pick you up at the ticket booth. The yurt owners sometimes require ID, so make sure to bring your passport. Alternatively, you can camp at the lake but do so away from the main areas.
Regardless of the temperature in Ürümqi, take warm clothes and rain gear, as the weather at the lake can be unpredictable.
8Getting There & Around
Tourist buses to the Tiān Chí main gate leave Ürümqi at 9am from the north gate of People’s Park, and return around 7pm. Buy your ticket from Xinjiang Xinda Travel (%0991 5566 0035, 181 6791 8556; round trip ¥50) inside the small pagoda next to the entrance to the park.
Buses stop at major hotels on the way out of the city to pick up passengers before leaving town. In the low season they may not run at all. The return fare is ¥50 and the trip takes about 2½ hours. Expect to stop at several awful tourist shopping traps along the way, to the delight of your fellow
travellers. As there is no alternative transport option, unless you hire a driver, you have little choice but to use this service.
From the main gate (where you purchase a ticket), all travellers must take the park's own bus (¥90, every 10 to 15 minutes) for the 30-minute ride to another parking lot, which itself is still 1km before the lake. You can walk from the final lot or take a shuttle (¥10).
Turpan 吐鲁番
%0995 / Pop 650,000
Turpan (吐鲁番; Tǔlǔfān) is China’s Death Valley. At 154m below sea level, it’s the second-lowest depression in the world and the hottest spot in China. In July and August, temperatures soar above 40°C and even 50°C, forcing the local population to sleep on their roofs and visiting tourists into a state of semi-torpor.
Despite the heat, the ground water and fertile soil of the Turpan depression has made this a veritable oasis in the desert, evidenced by the nearby centuries-old remains of ancient cities, imperial garrisons and Buddhist caves. The city itself has a mellow vibe to it, and recovering from a day’s sightseeing over a cold Xīnjiāng beer under the grape vines on a warm summer evening is one of the joys of travelling through the province.
Turpan
1Sights
1Turpan MuseumB2
4Sleeping
2Tǔlǔfān BīnguǎnB2
3Turpan White Camel Youth HostelB1
5Eating
4Gaochang Lu Night MarketA2
5Kadinas TaamliriB1
1Sights
Turpan MuseumMUSEUM
(吐鲁番博物馆; Tǔlǔfān Bówùguǎn MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Laocheng Donglu, 老城东路 h10am-7pm Tue-Sun)F
Xīnjiāng’s second-largest museum houses a rich collection of relics recovered from archaeological sites across the Turpan Basin, including a superb collection of dinosaur fossils, dinosaur eggs and various species of ancient rhino. Upstairs there's a ghoulish gallery of local mummies. Pop in here before signing up for a regional tour; the photos of nearby sites at the entrance might help you decide which ones to visit. Despite the free entry, you'll need to collect a ticket downstairs. No thongs (flip-flops) allowed.
Emin MinaretISLAMIC SITE
(额敏塔; Émǐn Tǎ ¥45; h9am-8pm)
Built to honour Turpan general Emin Hoja, this splendid 44m-high mud-brick structure is the tallest minaret in China. Also known as Sūgōng Tǎ after Emin’s son Suleiman, who oversaw its construction (1777–78), its bowling-pin shape is decorated with an interesting mix of geometrical and floral patterns: the former reflect traditional Islamic design, the latter Chinese. You can no longer climb the interior steps of the minaret itself, but the rest of the grounds, including the adjacent mosque, are open.
4Sleeping
oDap HostelHOSTEL$
(吐鲁番达卜青年旅舍; Tǔlǔfān Dábo Qīngnián Lǚshě GOOGLE MAP ; %0995 626 3193, 186 9951 3631; Lane 8 off Shahezi Lu, 砂河子路8巷 dm ¥35-45, d/q ¥120/180; aW)
Set in an atmospheric and traditional-style Uighur house whose courtyard boasts carpet-covered beds for socialising on, a small garden and a plenty of other cosy nooks and crannies, the Dap Hostel is the best budget option in town. The dorms are spacious and spotless, and all share clean bathrooms and toilets. Laundry is available and staff speak English.
Tǔlǔfān BīnguǎnHOTEL$$
(吐鲁番宾馆 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0995 856 9000, 152 9944 4128; [email protected]; 2 Qingnian Nanlu; 青年南路2号 s/d incl breakfast ¥120/180; aW)
This rather aged place is nevertheless good value, and the wonderfully eccentric Arabian Nights–style lobby certainly has its own curiosity value. Things get significantly less ornate once you head to the rooms, which are rather musty and have springy mattresses that will pattern your skin. On the plus side, it has a great central location.
oTurpan Silk Road LodgeBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(吐鲁番市丝绸之路公寓; Tǔlǔfānshì Sīchóu Zhīlù Gōngyù %136 3997 6886, 0995 856 8333; www.silkroadlodges.com; Munar Lu, 木纳尔路 r with breakfast ¥680; hApr-Oct; aiW)
To call it boutique might be a slight stretch, but the Silk Road is definitely one of the most atmospheric and charming accommodation options in Xīnjiāng. Though the rooms feature a rather flat international-chain-hotel design, the rooftop views over the surrounding vineyards and low rising desert hills make this a unique and peaceful retreat.
Xīzhōu DàjiǔdiànHOTEL$$$
(西州大酒店 GOOGLE MAP ; %0995 855 4000; 8 Qingnian Beilu; 青年北路8号 s/d/tr incl breakfast ¥240/280/340; aW)
This business hotel is centrally located and has clean and modern rooms. There's no English spoken, however, and it's rather lacking in charm, but does the job for a night if you want to stay comfortably in the middle of the city.
5Eating
Gaochang Lu Night MarketMARKET$
(高昌路夜市; Gāochāng Lù Yèshi MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Gaochang Lu; dishes from ¥10; h7pm-midnight)
Come dusk, dozens of stalls set up shop by the fountains to the west of the main central square. Grab a cold beer and choose from fried fish, shāguō (沙果; casseroles), goat’s feet soup and cumin-scented kebabs. This is a wonderfully atmospheric and deeply Uighur experience.
Kurban HomeUIGHUR$
(Tuyoq; meal ¥25, dm ¥100)
The large homestead of the Kurban family in the traditional Uighur village of Tuyoq is a great place for a lunch of noodles (and you can watch the noodles being pulled beforehand, a fascinating sight) or even to stay the night in one of the several guest rooms, though the toilets will challenge even the most seasoned China travellers.
Kadinas TaamliriUIGHUR$$
(凯蒂娜美食 MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0995 856 8722; Bezeklik Lu, 柏孜克里克路 mains ¥20-60)
This excellent Uighur place is popular with local families coming for a feast, and has a large photo menu that runs the gamut of Uighur cooking, from multiple ways to cook lamb to delicious 'Uighur pizza'.
8Information
Bank of ChinaBANK
(中国银行; Zhōngguó Yínháng GOOGLE MAP ; Laocheng Xilu; h9.30am-12.30pm & 4.30-7.30pm)
Changes cash and has an ATM.
Public Security BureauPOLICE
(PSB; 公安局; Gōng’ānjú GOOGLE MAP ; Gaochang Lu)
North of the city centre; will likely refer you to the capital for visa extensions.
8Getting There & Away
Turpan is now connected to Ürümqi and elsewhere in China by the new high-speed railway, whose brand new train station, Turpan North Station (吐鲁番北站; Tǔlǔfān Běi Zhàn ), is 12km northwest of the city centre. A taxi from the city centre costs ¥30, or you can take bus 202 (¥1). From here, several trains a day go to Ürümqi (1st/2nd class ¥74/49, one hour) and Hāmì (1st/2nd class ¥137/121, two hours).
The old train station, simply known as Turpan, is actually at Dàhéyán (大河沿), a whopping 54km north of Turpan. Count on paying ¥100 for a taxi here, or take a shared taxi (¥20 per person), which go to and from Turpan's long-distance bus station (长途汽车站, Chángtú Qìchēzhàn GOOGLE MAP ; Chun Shu Lu; 椿树路 ). From Turpan station, older and far slower rolling stock trundles to Ürümqi and Hāmì, though as journey times are more than twice as long and tickets bizarrely more expensive than on the high-speed line, there's little reason to use this station to get to either city. However, you'll have to use this station for direct train connections to Kuqa (hard/soft sleeper ¥ 132/248, 6½ to 10½ hours), Kashgar (hard/soft sleeper ¥298/476, 15 to 22 hours) and Hotan (hard/soft sleeper ¥330/535, 23 hours).
You can buy tickets for trains from either station in Turpan at the train booking office (火车售票处; Huǒchē Shòupiàochù GOOGLE MAP ; Qingnian Beilu; commission ¥5; h9am-1pm & 3.30-8pm), located in the city centre.
Buses to Ürümqi (¥45, 3½ hours) run every 20 minutes from 8.10am to 8.30pm. A bus to Hāmì (¥89, six hours) departs daily at 10.30am. There is currently no bus service to Kashgar, but there is a 5pm sleeper bus that goes to Kuqa (¥170, nine hours) and then to Hotan (¥280, 24 hours
). Change in Kuqa for Kashgar. For Dūnhuáng (¥182, 12 hours) in Gānsù, take the afternoon sleeper bus, which originates in Ürümqi and normally arrives in Turpan around 4pm. It's best to buy your ticket for this service a day beforehand, and the route has an unpredictable timetable.
8Getting Around
Public transport around Turpan is by taxi (flag fall at ¥5), minibus or bicycle. Bicycles (about ¥5 per hour), available from Dap Hostel and White Camel Youth Hostel (吐鲁番白驼青年旅舍; Tǔlǔfān Bái Tuó Qīngnián Lǚshě MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %156 0995 5676, 0995 866 0556; www.turpanwhitecamel.hostel.com; 55 Bezeklik Lu; 柏孜克勒克路55号 dm/d Y¥40/100; aiW), are convenient for getting around the city and visiting the sights a little further from the centre.
Most of Turpan’s best sights are scattered around the the city in all directions. If you have plenty of time and several days, it's possible to visit some by public transport, but your best bet is to hire a driver for a day or two and you'll be able to see pretty much everything. We can highly recommend the driving services and local knowledge of English-speaking Tahir (%150 2626 1388; [email protected]). A full-day tour costs ¥480 per car. When packing for the day, do not underestimate the desert heat: essential survival gear includes a water bottle, sunscreen, sunglasses and a hat. If you're determined to do the sights as much as possible by local buses and the odd taxi, then the two hostels in Turpan can both give reliable information.
Around Turpan
Astana GravesTOMB
Lonely Planet China Page 166