The Lánzhōu–Xīnjiāng High Speed Railway was completed in November 2013 and whisks passengers up the valley via Xīníng in Qīnghǎi. The slower Y667 train (hard/soft/deluxe sleeper ¥276/430/911, 13 hours) is a dedicated tourist train that departs Lánzhōu for Dūnhuáng at 5.50pm and offers freshly cooked meals on board, sparkling clean facilities and multi-lingual announcements. Deluxe sleepers have two beds and a private bathroom.
Wŭwēi 武威
%0935 / Pop 1.81 million
Wǔwēi (武威) stands at the strategic eastern end of the Héxī Corridor. It was from here, two millennia ago, that the emperors of China launched their expeditionary forces into the unknown west, eventually leading them to Jiāyùguān and beyond. Temples, tombs and traditional gates hint at Wǔwēi’s Silk Road past, while the rapidly modernising city has some pleasant squares and pedestrian streets.
1Sights
Wǔwēi has a few pleasant temples and pagodas to explore, but most travellers base themselves here to explore the Tiāntīshān Grottoes, located 57km southeast of town.
Wǔwēi is compact enough that with the exception of Hǎizàng Temple you can walk to all the sights in an afternoon. Most travellers base themselves in the southern part of town near the rebuilt South Gate (南门). The city’s main square, Wénhuà Guǎngchǎng (文化广场), is about 1km directly north of the gate on Bei Dajie. Mingqing Fanggu Wenhua Jie (or simply Mingqing Jie) extends east from the gate and is an attractive street lined with restaurants, coffee shops and a KTV or two.
Hǎizàng TempleBUDDHIST TEMPLE
(海藏寺; Hǎizàng Sì Liangzhou District, Jinsha Township; 凉州区金沙乡 h9am-5pm)F
A fascinating active monastery with a minute pavilion to the right of the entrance containing a well whose ‘magic waters’ (神水; shénshuǐ) are said to connect by subterranean streams to a Holy Lake (圣湖; Shènghú) in the Potala Palace in Lhasa. Drinking the water is said to cure myriad ailments. Bus 5 (¥2) towards Hǎizàng Gōngyuán (海藏公园) or a taxi (¥10) will take you the short trip outside town to Hǎizàng Park entrance (¥2); the temple is out back.
Kumarajiva PagodaBUDDHIST PAGODA
(罗什寺; Luóshí Sì 66 Bei Dajie; 北大街66号 h8am-6pm)F
This 12-storey pagoda dates from AD 488 and is surrounded by a tranquil complex of both unpainted and colourful wooden temples with old folk gossiping under trees. Dedicated to Kumarajiva, the great translator of Buddhist sutras (who lived here for 17 years and whose tongue was buried beneath the pagoda), the original 17th-century structures were toppled during a great earthquake in 1927 and rebuilt.
It's located 400m north of Wǔwēi's main square.
Léitái Tomb & ParkTOMB, BUDDHIST
(雷台公园; Léitái Gōngyuán Leitai Donglu; 雷台东路 ¥45; h9am-5pm)
The pride and joy of the city, the bronze Flying Horse of Wǔwēi (飞马; Fēimǎ) was discovered here in 1969 and is the unofficial symbol of Gānsù. It was found in a secret tomb beneath this temple, built on top of steep earthen ramparts. The Flying Horse is now displayed in the Gānsù Provincial Museum.
The site is 1.2km north of Wǔwēi; turn right at Leitai Donglu. Note that you’ll need your passport to enter.
4Sleeping & Eating
Wŭwēi is not a city that will wow with its spectacular accommodation options, but there are plenty of clean, comfortable hotels scattered around town.
Zǐyúngé HotelHOTEL$$
(紫云阁酒店; Zǐyúngé Jiǔdiàn %0935 225 3888; east of Changmen Guangchang; 南城门广场东侧 d/tr ¥137/172; aiW)
This international-style hotel has spacious, comfortable rooms with showers, though the decor is showing a bit of age. The best thing about the hotel is its convenient location just east of Wŭwēi's South Gate. Wi-fi only in lobby.
Yúnxiáng International HotelHOTEL
(云翔国际酒店; Yúnxiáng Guójì Jiǔdiàn Beiguan Donglu; 北关东路云翔升字 d/ste incl breakfast ¥240/530; ai)
Clean international hotel with comfy-if-generic features and furnishings. Rooms have spacious bathrooms and there is a restaurant serving the Chinese-style buffet breakfast included in the room price.
Liángzhōu MarketMARKET, HAWKER$
(凉州市场; Liángzhōu Shìchǎng Pedestrian St; 步行街 dishes ¥7-20)
This warren of covered pedestrian streets packs in dozens of snack stands, hawker stalls and small, hole-in-the-wall restaurants in a blaze of garish neon signs. Lots of easy foods on a budget, from simple fried noodles (炒面; chǎomiàn) to barbecue, dumplings and hot pot.
8Information
Bank of ChinaBANK
(中国银行; Zhōngguó Yínháng 21 Xidajie, nr West Gate of Buxingjie; 西大街21号步行街西口 )
West end of Pedestrian St (步行商业街; Buxing Shangye Jie); can change money.
8Getting There & Away
Express buses to cities in the Héxī Corridor run from the main bus station (快客站; kuài kè zhàn) on Nanguan Xilu, though trains are faster and cheaper still.
There are two train stations in Wŭwēi: the old station, located at the south end of Jianshe Lu (建设路) and the newer Wŭwēi south station (武威南站; Wǔwēi Nánzhàn). Both have similarly frequent departures to the main cities in Gānsù, though direct trains to Dūnhuáng only run from Wŭwēi Station.
AJiāyùguān Hard seat/sleeper ¥69/139, 4½ to six hours, every 20 to 30 minutes
ALánzhōu Hard/soft seat ¥47/72, 3½ hours, every 20 to 30 minutes
AZhāngyè Hard/soft seat ¥41/61, two to three hours, every 20 to 30 minutes
AZhōngwèi (Níngxià) Seat/hard sleeper ¥41/98, three to four hours, nine daily
To pre-purchase tickets, cross the square opposite the Confucius Temple (cnr of Xin Qingnianxiang & Wenmiaolu; 新青年巷文庙路) to the train booking office (火车票代售点).
From Wuwei Station only:
ADūnhuáng Hard/soft sleeper ¥219/339, 10 hours (three per day directly to Dūnhuáng at 9.02pm, 9.35pm and 1.15am; other trains drop you off at Liǔyuán)
8Getting Around
Taxi rides around town are around ¥4 to ¥7. To reach the main train station from Wénhuà Guǎngchǎng, take buses 1 and 2 (¥1) or a taxi (¥10).
It's quite typical for taxi drivers in Wŭwēi to stop and pick up other passengers for an additional fare. Be sure to agree your fare with the driver before you set off, or ask to use the meter.
Around Wŭwēi
Tiāntīshān GrottoesCAVE
(天梯山石窟; Tiāntīshān Shíkū Dēngshān Village; 灯山村 ¥30; h8.30am-6.30pm)
It's hard to appreciate how massive the 15m-high Shakyamuni Buddha statue at Tiāntīshān Grottoes is until you are at its truck-sized feet and peering up at its outstretched hand emerging from the cliff face. These 1600-year-old carvings stand majestically in the open air, not hidden in dark caves, so snap away.
There are 17 caves here containing ancient murals (tigers, black dragons), along with some scroll paintings. Only one is open to the public, however, as many suffered devastation after a large earthquake in 1927. In 1959 many of the relics from lower caves were moved to Gānsù Provincial Museum to make way for the construction of a reservoir. The Buddha is the real star, his enormous feet protected from the reservoir's flood by a giant, half-moon dam around which you can walk to see him from varying vantages. Two sets of stairs also lead to the dam floor, allowing worshippers to descend and light incense.
Transportation to Tiāntīshān is irregular. The best way to get here is to hire a private driver or taxi in Wǔwēi (¥200, half-day). Some through buses go from Wǔwēi bus station; you'll have to ask for the Tiāntīshān minibus (¥12, 3½ hours, every 30 minutes). You'll be dropped off along the main highway, from where it's a 20-minute walk to the grottoes; however, the return journey can be very problematic, with no regular buses or services from the grottoes themselves.
Zhāngyè 张掖
%0936 / Pop 1.19 million
Smack-dab in the
middle of the Héxī Corridor, the chilled-out city of Zhāngyè (张掖) has a relaxed atmosphere that belies its historical status as an outpost connecting Central Asia to the Chinese empire via the Silk Road. Marco Polo is said to have spent a year here around 1274 – he provided a detailed description of Zhāngyè (by its historical name, Campichu) in The Travels of Marco Polo. Even the name Zhāngyè alludes to its Silk Road importance: 张掖 is a shortening of '张国臂掖，以通西域', which translates as 'Extending the arm of the nation to its Western Realm'.
Today, Zhāngyè is a useful base from which to explore the otherwordly landscapes of the Dānxiá Geopark and the ancient cliff temples at Mǎtí Sì. In town, one of Asia's largest reclining Buddhas is ensconced in a beautifully preserved wooden temple, which, according to legend, was the birthplace of Mongol warrior Kublai Khan.
1Sights
Zhāngyè is roughly divided into Xi (West), Dong (East), Nan (South) and Bei (North) Dajie, depending on which direction its two main streets radiate from the drum tower. Jianfu Jie intersects with Xi Dajie a few blocks from the drum tower and heading north takes you to a pleasant eating street, while Nan Dajie leads (more or less) to the Giant Buddha Temple and Wooden Pagoda.
oGiant Buddha TempleBUDDHIST SITE
(大佛寺; Dàfó Sì %0936 821 9671; www.zydfs.com; Dafo Xiang, off Minzhu Xijie; 大佛寺巷 ¥41; h8.30am-6pm)
Originally dating to 1098 (Western Xia dynasty), this lovely temple contains an astonishing 35m-long sleeping Buddha – China’s largest of this variety and among the biggest wooden reclining Buddhas in Asia – surrounded by mouldering clay arhats (Buddhists who have achieved enlightenment) and Qing dynasty murals.
This is one of the few wooden structures from this era still standing in China and there is a wealth of traditional symbols to examine. Even the unrestored exterior is fascinating and there's an impressive white clay stupa (土塔; tǔtǎ) dating from the Ming dynasty. The former Princesses Wencheng hall towards the back of the temple now contains an exhibition showcasing Buddhist artefacts, and there is also a display of golden sutras associated with the temple.
The Shanxi Guild Hall at the northeast corner of the temple is also worth a look. Dating to 1724, this Qing era complex was used as a meeting place and includes rare intact wooden stage and platform viewing areas.
From the drum tower, head south on Nan Dajie about 1km.
Xīlái Wooden PagodaPAGODA
(西来寺; Xīlái Sì cnr Minzhu Xijie & Xianfu Jie; 民主西街县府街的路口 ¥50; h8am-6pm)
Zhāngyè's main square is dominated by this nine-tiered brick and wooden pagoda. Though first built during the Northern Zhou dynasty (AD 557–588), the present 27.4m structure is a thorough reconstruction from 1926. Admission buys you a ticket to the top, which offers views over the city.
Though official closing hours are listed as 6pm, some travellers have reported the pagoda as being open during the evening.
4Sleeping & Eating
Mingqing Jie (明清街) is an alley of faux-Qing architecture lined with dozens of clean, friendly restaurants with picture menus. To find it, head 300m west of the drum tower along Xi Dajie. Local specialities include lǎoshǔfěn (老鼠粉; rice-flour noodles) and cuōyúmiàn (搓鱼面; twisted fish noodles), so named because they are hand-twisted into oblong pointed shapes resembling small fish.
oBean Sprout HostelHOSTEL$
(豆芽旅舍; Dòuyá Lǚshě %185 1634 0930; 113 Changshou Jie; 长寿街113号 dm ¥105; naiW)
This adorable hostel run by a Chinese couple features dorms and family rooms set around a Qing dynasty–styled indoor courtyard with tables, lanterns and greenery. There is not a whiff about the place, everything is bright and spotlessly clean, and the couple are extremely passionate about Zhāngyè and helping travellers. The central location is the icing on the cake.
They can book tours or arrange private cars to Mǎtí Sì and Dānxiá National Geopark, as well as onward train tickets. Unfortunately, no English is spoken, but the friendliness of the owners overcomes that; they'll go out of their way to make sure you're looked after.
Huáyì Snack SquareMARKET, HAWKER$
(华谊小吃广场; Huáyì Xiǎochī Guǎngchǎng Dong Dajie; 东大街 h10am-10pm)
This pedestrianised market has dozens of snack stalls and small restaurants, many selling local specialities and Chinese standards, hand-pulled noodles (拉面; lāmiàn) and dried fruits and vegetables. This is also a good place to try the local speciality cuōyúmiàn (搓鱼面; twisted fish noodles).
8Information
There’s an internet cafe on the southwest corner of the drum-tower intersection. Hotels, hostels, KFC and coffee shops have free wi-fi.
Bank of ChinaBANK
(中国银行; Zhōngguó Yínháng 388 Dong Dajie; 东大街388号 h8.30am-noon & 2.30-5pm Mon-Fri)
Has a 24-hour ATM
8Getting There & Away
Bus
Zhāngyè has three bus stations, in the south, east and west. The west bus station (汽车西站; qìchē xīzhàn) has the most frequent departures. Destinations include Xīníng, Golmud, Jiāyùguān, Lánzhōu, Dūnhuáng and Wǔwēi, though it's faster, cheaper and far easier to take a train.
Train
In 2015 Zhāngyè became an important stop along the newly opened high-speed rail line that connects Lánzhōu and Ürümqi in Xīnjiāng. High-speed trains now depart from Zhāngyè west railway station (张掖西站; Zhāngyē Xīzhàn) for Lánzhōu via Xīníng in Qīnghǎi province. Services include the following:
AJiāyùguān South Hard/soft seat ¥66/79, 1½ hours, every 30 minutes
ALánzhōu West Hard/soft seat ¥150/180, three hours, every 30 minutes
AÜrümqi Hard/soft seat ¥399/479, eight hours, every 45 minutes
AXīníng Hard/soft seat ¥92/110, two hours, every 45 minutes
Slower departures for Wŭwēi and destinations further east go from Zhāngyè Railway Station, locally known as lǎozhàn (老站; old station), including the following:
ADūnhuáng Hard/soft sleeper ¥145/223, 7½ hours, two daily (12.29am and 4.05am); day trains all go to Liǔyuán or Liǔyuán on the high-speed line
AWǔwēi Seat/hard sleeper ¥41/98, 2½ to 3 hours, every 20 to 30 minutes
There is a train booking office (火车票代售点; Huǒchēpiào Dàishòu Diǎn 12 Oushi Jie; 欧式街12号 h8am-6pm). To get there walk west of the drum tower and turn right (north) at Oushi Jie.
8Getting Around
A taxi from any of the bus stations to the hotels costs ¥4 to ¥5. Bus 4 runs past the west bus station from Dong or Xi Dajie.
The old train station is 7km northeast of the city centre, and a taxi will cost ¥10, or take bus 1 (¥1). The west railway station is 3.5km from the centre of town. Shared taxis depart from in front of the station for ¥10 per person.
Zhāngyè Dānxiá National Geopark 张掖丹霞国家地质公园
Zhāngyē Dānxiá National GeoparkNATIONAL PARK, DESERT
(张掖丹霞国家地质公园; Zhāngyē Dānxiá Guójiā Dìzhí Gōngyuán ¥60; h6am-8pm)
The swirling orange, yellow, white and brown lunar landscape of this national park is the result of sandstone and mineral deposits that have eroded into odd shapes over the course of millennia. These 'rainbow mountains' have been quietly drawing photographers for the last few years.
Infrastructure was installed inside the park after it was named a national geopark in 2011, making it – for better or worse – very accessible to tourists. Wooden stairs and platforms allow visitors to reach the tops of the hills without damaging the delicate landscape and offer stunning views over the coloured strata.
The park opens early for a reason: the best time to visit (and photograph) this magnificent landscape is at sunrise on a clear day. From Zhāngyè, a taxi to both Mǎtí Sì and Dānxiá will cost around ¥350, or a taxi here only about ¥150. Once here, a hop-on, hop-off bus shuttles visitors to various stops inside the park, and you are welcome to take your time at t
he various scenic platforms.
Mǎtí Xiāng 马蹄乡
%0936
Carved into the cliff sides in foothills of the grand Qílián Mountains (Qílián Shān), the venerable Buddhist grottoes of Mǎtí Sì make for a fine short getaway from the hectic small towns along the Héxī Corridor. The tiny tourist village of Mǎtí Xiāng (马蹄乡) serves as a gateway to the temples. There’s excellent hiking in the nearby hills, and a small range of very simple accommodation and food from May to September. Come in July to see the mountain valleys carpeted in blue wildflowers.
There are several good day hikes around Mǎtí Sì, including the five-hour loop through pine forest and talus fields to the Línsōng Waterfall (临松瀑布; Línsōng Pùbù) and back down past Sword Split Stone (剑劈石; Jiànpīshí). For unrivalled panoramas, take the steep ascent of the ridge starting across from the white chörten (Tibetan stupa) just above the village at Sānshísāntiān Shíkū (三十三天石窟).
Mǎtí SìCAVE, BUDDHIST SITE
(马蹄寺 ¥74; h8.30am-5.30pm)
Mǎtí Sì translates as 'Horse Hoof Monastery', a reference to when a heavenly horse left a hoof imprint in a grotto. Between the 5th and 14th centuries a series of caves were almost as miraculously built in sheer sandstone cliffs and filled with carvings, temples and meditation rooms. The caves are reached via twisting staircases, balconies, narrow passages and platforms that will leave your head spinning.
Lonely Planet China Page 176