The only way to get out here is to hire a driver (¥400) for the half-day. Excellent English guides are available on-site for ¥15.
While the art at the Mògāo Grottoes is considered higher quality, the frescoes here are better preserved; there is little of the oxidation and thickening of painted lines so prevalent at Mògāo.
Jade Gate PassHISTORIC SITE
(玉门关, Yùmén Guān & 阳关, Yáng Guān Jade Gate ¥60, South Pass ¥40)
The Jade Gate Pass, 78km west of Dūnhuáng, was originally a military station. Together with Sun Pass, it formed part of the Han dynasty series of beacon towers that extended to the garrison town of Lóula’n in Xīnjiāng. Admission includes entry to a section of Han dynasty Great Wall (101 BC), impressive for its antiquity and lack of restoration; and the ruined city walls of Hécāng Chéng, 15km down a side road.
For caravans travelling westward, the Jade Gate marked the beginning of the northern route to Turpan and was one of the last outposts that travellers and banished criminals saw before leaving the Chinese empire. The Jade Gate derived its name from the important traffic in Khotanese jade that thrived along the Silk Road, which passed through here.
Tours that take in the Jade Gate Pass and Sun Pass, usually in combination with Yǎdān National Park, can be arranged at Charley Johng's Cafe.
Yǎdān National ParkDESERT
(雅丹国家地质公园; Yǎdān Guójiā Dìzhì Gōngyuán ¥120; h8am-5.30pm)
The weird, eroded desert landscape of Yǎdān National Park is 180km northwest of Dūnhuáng, in the middle of the Gobi Desert’s awesome nothingness. A former lake bed that eroded in spectacular fashion some 12,000 years ago, the strange rock formations provided the backdrop to the last scenes of Zhang Yimou’s film Hero. Tours (included in the price) are confined to group minibuses (with regular photo stops) to preserve the natural surrounds, but the desert landscape here is so dramatic you will still feel like you're at the ends of the earth.
To get to Yǎdān you have to pass through (and buy a ticket to) the Jade Gate Pass and Sun Pass. The best way to get here is to take one of two daily minibus tours (¥100 per person): the first departs at 7am and can be booked through Charley Johng’s Cafe; the other leaves at 12.30pm and is organised through the Shazhouyi International Youth Hostel. Tour prices don't include entrance fees to the individual sights. The 10- to 12-hour tours include a stop at the Jade Gate and Sun Passes and the Western Thousand Buddha Caves (西千佛洞, Xī Qiānfó Dòng ¥40; h8.30am-5pm).
TICKETS TO MòGāO GROTTOES
Though you used to be able to buy tickets to the Mògāo Grottoes directly at the entrance, the sight's popularity and relative ease of accessibility in recent years has meant that advance purchase is necessary. You can buy tickets online up to 14 days in advance at www.mgk.org.cn, although at the time of writing, this was Chinese-language only. Alternately, go to the Mògāo Grottoes Reservation and Ticket Center in Dūnhuáng when you arrive. Most hotels and hostels in Dūnhuáng can also book tickets, but may levy a surcharge.
Eastern Gānsù
Tiānshuǐ 天水
%0938 / Pop 3.26 million
Tiānshuǐ’s (天水) splendid Buddhist caves at nearby Màijī Shān entice a consistent flow of visitors. Though the city is not a draw in and of itself, it is a pleasant place to spend the night on the way to or from Màijī Shān and has enough dining and sleeping options to keep you occupied on your way through. The city has recently started to develop a waterside promenade along the Wei River that promises to become a very pleasant place for a stroll or evening beer.
Modern Tiānshuǐ is actually two very separate districts 15km apart: there is the railhead sprawl, known as Màijī Qū (麦积区; formerly Běidào), and the central commercial area to the west, known as Qínzhōu Qū (秦州区), where you’ll arrive if coming in by bus. The two sections are lashed together by a long freeway that runs along the river.
1Sights
Tiānshuǐ’s main draw is Màijī Shān, in the hills 35km south of town. Within walking distance of the Tiānshuǐ Dàjiǔdiàn hotel on the Qínzhōu side of town are two temples worth checking out if you have time to kill.
Fúxī TempleBUDDHIST TEMPLE
(伏羲庙; Fúxī Miào off Jiefang Lu, Qínzhōu; 秦州区解放路 ¥40; h8am-5.40pm)
This Ming dynasty temple was founded in 1483 in honour of Fúxī, the father and emperor of all Chinese people. The Tiānshuǐ resident's seminaked statue is in the main hall, along with traditional symbols such as bats, dragons and peonies. The hall ceiling's original paintings of the 64 hexagrams (varying combinations of the eight trigrams used in the I Ching) have uncanny similarities to computer binary language. It's worth visiting just for the 1000-year-old cypress tree in the tranquil gardens.
4Sleeping & Eating
If your aim is to get to Màijī Shān early, your best bet is to stay in Màijī Qū, the area around the railway station, which has a couple of decent Chinese-style business hotels. For better dining and nightlife options, opt to stay in Qínzhōu Qū.
In Qínzhōu Qū, you'll find good claypot, Sìchuān and noodle snack stalls, as well as fruit and nut sellers, around Tiānshuǐ Dàjiǔdiàn.
Tasty ròujiāmó and other fine snack food in Màijī Qū fill Erma Lu, a pedestrian street two blocks directly south of the train station.
Tiānshuǐ DàjiǔdiànHOTEL$
(%0938 828 9999; 1 Qinzhou Dazhong Nanlu; r ¥130; aiW)
This popular hotel is a solid choice in Qínzhōu district. The bus to Màijī Shān is just 200m south and restaurants abound. Standard rooms with private bathrooms are usually discounted up to 40%.
It's just opposite the main square, Zhōngxīn Guǎngchǎng.
Tiānshuǐ Garden HotelHOTEL$$
(天水花园酒店; Tiānshuǐ Huāyuán Jiǔdiàn %152 4937 3206; 1 Longchang Xilu, Màijī Qū; 麦积区隆昌西路1号 d ¥238; aiW)
This hotel is very handily located directly across from the train station. It's modern and clean, though the furnishings are showing a bit of wear and tear. The bus to Màijī Shān Grottoes departs from the stop on Longchang Lu just east of Bubei Lu.
Běidào Qīngzhēn Lǎozìhào Niúròu MiànguǎnNOODLES
(北道清真老字号牛肉面馆 Shangbu Lu Pedestrian St; 商埠路步行街 dishes ¥4-12; h7am-10pm)
Get a ticket from the kiosk out front and collect your beef noodles (niúròu miàn; ¥7) from the kitchen window inside. The noodles are excellent, infused with dollops of scarlet-red chilli oil. For extra meat, ask for jiāròu niúròumiàn (加肉牛肉面; ¥10). There's no English sign, but it's the green-and-white place roughly opposite a small branch of ICBC bank.
8Information
Bank of ChinaBANK
(中国银行, Zhōngguó Yínháng Longchang Lu; h8.30am-noon & 2.30-5.30pm)
Has Forex and an ATM.
8Getting There & Away
Bus
Buses leave from the long-distance bus station in Qínzhōu for the following destinations:
AHuīxiàn ¥35, three hours, hourly (7.20am to 6pm)
ALánzhōu ¥74, four hours, every 20 minutes (7.20am to 7pm)
ALínxià ¥99, seven hours, one daily (6.30am)
ALuòmén ¥25, two hours, three daily (7am, 11am and 2.30pm)
APíngliáng ¥65, five hours, hourly (7am to 3pm)
Train
Tiānshuǐ is on the Xī’ān–Lánzhōu rail line; there are dozens of daily trains in each direction.
ABǎojī Hard seat/soft sleeper ¥24/79, 2½ hours
ADìngxī Hard seat/soft sleeper ¥28/142, two to four hours
ALánzhōu Hard seat/soft sleeper ¥52/169, four hours
AXī’ān Hard seat/soft sleeper ¥51/165, five hours
8Getting Around
Taxis shuttle passengers between Qínzhōu Qū (from both the city bus station 200m south of the hotel and also from the long-distance bus station) and the train station in Màijī Qū. It costs ¥10 per person (¥40 for the whole taxi). Alterna
tively, take the much slower bus 1 or 6 (¥3, 40 minutes).
Around Tiānshuǐ
Màijī Shān GrottoesCAVES, BUDDHIST SITE
(麦积山石窟; Màijīshān Shíkū ¥90; h9am-5pm)
Set among wild, green mountains southeast of Tiānshuǐ, the grottoes of Màijī Shān hold some of the most famous Buddhist rock carvings along the Silk Road. The cliff sides of Màijī Shān are covered with 221 caves holding more than 7800 sculptures carved principally during the Northern Wei and Zhou dynasties (AD 386–581). The rock face rises in a steep ascent, with the hundreds of grottoes connected by a series of constructed walkways clinging to the sheer cliff.
Within the hard-to-miss Sui dynasty trinity of Buddha and two Bodhisattvas is the largest statue on the mountain: the cave’s central effigy of Buddha tops out at 15.7m. During restoration works on the statue in the late 1980s, a handwritten copy of the Sutra of Golden Light was discovered within the Buddha’s fan.
Vertigo-inducing catwalks and steep spiral stairways cling to the cliff face, affording close-ups of the art. It’s not certain just how the artists managed to clamber so high; one theory is that they created piles from blocks of wood reaching to the top of the mountain before moving down, gradually removing them as they descended.
A considerable amount of pigment still clings to many of the statues – a lot of which are actually made of clay rather than being hewn from rock – although you frequently have to climb up steps to peer at them through tight mesh grills with little natural illumination. Much, though, is clearly visible and most of the more impressive sculptures decorate the upper walkways, especially at cave 4.
At the time of writing, a new visitors centre was being constructed at the base of the mountain to replace the crescent of noodle stalls that previously served as the only refreshments on the mountain.
An English-speaking guide charges ¥50 for up to a group of five. It may be possible to view normally closed caves (such as cave 133) for an extra fee of ¥500 per group.
The admission ticket includes entry to Ruìyìng Monastery (瑞应寺; Ruìyìng Sì), at the base of the mountain, which acts as a small museum of selected statues. Across from the monastery is the start of a trail to a botanic garden (植物园; zhíwùyuán), which allows for a short cut back to the entrance gate through the forest. If you don't want to walk the 2km up the road from the ticket office to the cliff, ask for tickets for the sightseeing trolley (观光车; guānguāng chē; ¥15) when buying your entrance ticket.
You can also climb Xiāngjí Shān (香积山). For the trailhead, head back towards the visitor centre where the sightseeing bus drops you off and look for a sign down a side road to the left.
To reach Màijī Shān, take bus 34 (¥5 one way, one hour, every 15 minutes) from the bus shelter across from Tiānshuǐ Railway Station. It terminates at the Màijī Shān ticketing office.
Píngliáng 平凉
%0933 / Pop 2.06 million
A booming, midsized Chinese city, Píngliáng (平凉) is a logical base for visits to the nearby holy mountain of Kōngtóng Shān, which, according to Taoist legend, is where the Yellow Emperor came to meet the avatar Guangchengzi.
Kōngtóng ShānTAOIST TEMPLE
(崆峒山 high/low season ¥120/60; h8am-5pm)
Kōngtóng Shān, 11km west of Píngliáng, is one of the 12 principal peaks in the Taoist universe. It was first mentioned by the philosopher Zhuangzi (399–295 BC), and illustrious visitors have included none other than the Yellow Emperor. Numerous paths lead over the hilltop past dozens of picturesque (though entirely restored) temples to the summit at over 2100m. While the mountain is an enchanting place to hike, those looking for genuine historical artefacts or ambience will be disappointed.
From the north gate visitor centre (pick up a free map here to orient yourself) catch a bus to Zhōngtái (¥32) or Xiāngshān (¥48); both are essentially small visitor areas on the mountain with paths radiating out to lookouts and temples.
A taxi from Píngliáng will cost ¥30, or you can catch bus 16 (¥1) on Xi Dajie and then transfer to bus 13 (¥2) when you reach Kongtong Dadao. Bus 13 drops you off right in front of the main visitor centre before continuing on to the East Gate. At the end of your visit you can walk down from Zhōngtái to the East Gate and catch bus 13 back to town.
Accommodation in Píngliáng is limited to just-fine Chinese-style hotels.
Just off the main street (Xi Dajie), look for the Sìzhōng Alley market (四中巷市场; Sìzhōng Xiàng Shìchǎng). There are numerous restaurants here, and more food stalls serving noodles, spicy hotpot and barbecued meats, as well as fresh fruit.
Píngliáng HotelHOTEL$$
(平凉宾馆; Píngliáng Bīnguǎn %0933 821 9485; 86 Xi Dajie; 西大街86号 tw/d ¥216/250; aiW)
The top hotel in town has a grandiose marble lobby and spacious rooms with modern furnishings in subtle colours. Expect discounts up to 40%.
8Getting There & Away
Bus
The following services depart from Píngliáng’s main bus station, in the western part of town on Lai Yuan Lu:
AGùyuán ¥24, 1½ hours, frequent
ALánzhōu ¥105, five hours, hourly (6.30am to 5.30pm)
ATiānshuǐ ¥65, seven hours, one daily (9am)
AXī’ān ¥88, six hours, every 40 minutes (6.20am to 6pm)
For Tiānshuǐ there are more frequent departures from the east bus station (qìchē dōngzhàn).
Train
The train station is in the northeastern part of town. It’s better to take a bus to Xī’ān as trains either leave or arrive at very inconvenient hours.
ALánzhōu Seat/hard sleeper ¥49/109, 11½ hours, one daily leaving at 9.53pm
AXī’ān Hard seat/soft sleeper ¥53/172, five to six hours
ABǎojī Hard seat/soft sleeper ¥33/134, four hours
8Getting Around
Bus 1 (¥2) runs from the train station to Xi Dajie. A taxi costs ¥10. From Xi Dajie to the bus station costs ¥4 or take bus 16 (¥1).
Níngxià
Yinchuan
Helan Shan
Zhongwei
Guyuan
Tongxin
Níngxià
Pop 6.4 million
Why Go?
With its raw landscape of dusty plains and stark mountains, sliced in two by the Yellow River (Huáng Hé), there's a distinct Grapes of Wrath feel to Níngxià (宁夏). Outside the cities is a timeless landscape where farmers till the hard yellow earth just like their ancestors did.
Yet Níngxià was once the frontline between the empires of the Mongols and the Han Chinese and there's a host of historic sites here, ranging from little-seen Buddhist statues to the royal tombs of long-past dynasties, as well as ancient rock carvings that predate the emperors. And as the homeland of the Muslim Hui ethnic minority, Níngxià is culturally unique, too.
Then there’s the chance to camp out under the desert sky, or float down the Yellow River on a traditional raft. But best of all, Níngxià sees few foreign visitors so it seems like you have the place all to yourself.
When to Go
AJun Warm, dry nights will give you a thirst for some local nightlife and Níngxià wine.
AOct It’s cooling down and time to play Lawrence of Arabia in the little-visited Tengger Desert.
ANov The Yellow River festival in Yínchuān features concerts and folk dancing.
Best Places to Eat
A Xiānhè Lóu
A Xiǎochī Night Market
A Dà Mā Jiǎozi Guǎn
A Quánjùdé
Best Places to Sleep
A Yinchuan Hotel
A Holiday Inn
A Zhōngwèi Dàjiǔdiàn
Níngxià Highlights
1 Western Xia Tombs Visiting these imperial tombs outside Yínchuān, a rare reminder of a long-vanished culture.
2 Xūmí Shān Exploring these little-visited Buddhist grottoes with their hundreds of statues.
3 Gāo Temple Being startled by th
e unsettling statuary in the riveting Arhat Hall.
4 Hèlán Shān Rock Carvings Admiring unique rock carvings that date back thousands of years.
5 Tengger Desert Hopping on a camel to trek into the dunes for an overnight stay.
6 Great Mosque Getting way off the beaten track at this marvellous Ming-era complex in Tóngxīn.
7 Shāpōtóu Rafting down the Yellow River or sliding down the sand dunes at this desert playground.
8 Hǎibǎo Pagoda Taking in the beautiful lines of this unusually styled Buddhist tower.
History
Níngxià had been on the periphery of Chinese empires ever since the Qin dynasty, but it took centre stage in the 10th century AD when the Tangut people declared the establishment of the Xixia (Western Xia) empire in the face of Song opposition. The empire was composed of modern-day Gānsù, Níngxià, Shaanxi and western Inner Mongolia, but it soon collapsed in the face of Mongol might.
The Mongol retreat in the 14th century left a void that was filled by both Muslim traders from the west and Chinese farmers from the east. Tensions between the two resulted in Níngxià being caught up in the great Muslim Rebellion that convulsed northwest China in the mid-19th century.
Once part of Gānsù, Níngxià is China’s smallest province, although technically it is an autonomous region for the Muslim Hui ethnic minority, who make up one-third of the population, rather than an official province. It remains one of the poorest areas of China, with a sharp economic divide between the more fertile, Han Chinese–dominated north and the parched, sparsely populated south.
Lonely Planet China Page 179