It takes about 25 minutes to walk the 1.5km from town, or a taxi costs ¥20. When walking up the hill, stick to the road as the pathway is home to some aggressive wild dogs. Rabies shots are not fun.
zFestivals & Events
Horse FestivalCULTURAL
(Yùshù Sàimǎ Jié; 玉树赛马节 hlate Jul)
Yùshù’s spectacular three-day horse festival features traditional horse and yak races, Tibetan wrestling, archery, shooting and dance. The festival is held at different parts of the county each year, with a mega, multi-county affair occurring every four to five years. Check the latest before you make this part of your itinerary.
4Sleeping
Yùshù has been rebuilt and hotels abound. Competition has meant that prices are reasonable, though quality, and wi-fi access, might differ. A hostel is slated to open soon, so do check if you want a budget option.
Pearl Business HotelHOTEL$$
(明珠商务宾馆; Míngzhū Shāngwù Bīnguǎn %0976 881 1177; 33 Qionglong Lu; 琼龙路33号 d ¥280; W)
This hotel has an intimate feel with all the regular amenities and bright, clean bathrooms. There’s 24-hour hot water and rooms come with hairdryers and high-speed broadband connection. Prices are negotiable, so ask to see a room first.
oGesar Palace HotelHOTEL$$$
(Yùshù Gésàěr Wángfǔ Fàndiàn; 玉树格萨尔王府饭店 %0976 882 1999; Minzhu Lu; 民主路 d ¥500-1000; Ws)
Located 100m west of the town square, and towering overs the local buildings, is the town's best hotel. Traditional Tibetan decor greets you in the cavernous lobby. Rooms feature comfortable beds, tasteful dark-wood panels and modern toilets. Service is rough round the edges, but the comfort levels makes it a good choice. Discounts bring rooms down to ¥290. Includes breakfast.
8Information
GesartourTRAVEL AGENCY
(%139 0976 9192; www.gesartour.com)
The best way to see the region is via a private vehicle, and English-speaking Tibetan manager Tsebrtim can organise a bunch of different options based on your interests. You'll get a great wealth of regional and Tibetan knowledge from Tsebrtim and his guides.
8Getting There & Away
Air
Yùshù Bātáng Airport is 25km south of town. There are pricey daily flights to Xīníng (¥1500), with continuing service to Xī’ān (¥1800). There are also flights to Chéngdū (¥1140, four flights a week) and Lhasa (¥2000, four flights a week) with plans for a direct service from Beījīng in the near future.
Bus
Yùshù’s rebuilt long-distance bus terminal (玉树长途客运站; Yùshù Chángtú Kèyùn Zhàn Xihang Lu; 西航路 ), in combination with a new stretch of highway connecting it to Xīníng (seat/sleeper ¥191/211, 8am, 9am, noon, 1pm, 4pm, 5pm, 5.30pm, 6pm), reduces travel time to just 12 hours.
Buses for Chéngdū (¥500) go from the Yùshù Provincial Bus Station (玉树州客运公司; Yùshù Zhōu Kèyùn Gōngsī Xīnzhài Village; 新寨村 ) in Xīnzhài (新寨) Village, 2km east of town.
Long-distance minibuses depart from outside the long-distance bus terminal, bound for Nangchen (¥50, three to four hours) but leaving only when full. Vehicles also depart when full for Gānzī (¥170, five to seven hours) in Sìchuān. Ask around for other destinations. Minibuses for other parts of Qīnghǎi, including Nangchen, also leave from another minivan square located on Shuangyong Jie (双拥街), 550m north of the long-distance bus terminal.
8Getting Around
A taxi to the airport is ¥50. Airport buses meet flights and cost ¥20 into town. Local bus routes 2, 3 and 4 (¥1) connect the main areas of town via three stations: Zhā Xīkē (扎西科), Fó Xuéyuàn (佛学院) and Xī Háng (西杭). You need to hail the bus for it to stop, and they run infrequently. Taxis are prevalent and fares start at ¥10, rising steeply if you head anywhere out of town.
Princess Wencheng Temple
Princess Wencheng TempleBUDDHIST TEMPLE
(文成公主庙; Wénchéng Gōngzhǔ Miào h8am-6pm)F
This small but busy temple, 15km south of Yùshù, is dedicated to the Tang dynasty Chinese Princess Wencheng, who was instrumental in converting her husband and Tibetan king, Songtsen Gampo, to Buddhism in the 7th century. The temple marks the spot where the princess (and possibly the king) paused for a month en route from Xī’ān to Lhasa.
Said to be the oldest Buddhist temple in Qīnghǎi, the inner chapel has a rock carving (supposedly self-arising) of Vairocana (Nampa Namse in Tibetan), the Buddha of primordial wisdom, which allegedly dates from the 8th century. To the left is a statue of King Songtsen Gampo.
The temple, which suffered minor damage from the 2010 Yùshù earthquake, is small, and few linger in it for long. Look around the surrounding rock faces for old rock and scripture carvings. Do allow time to explore the nearby hills. Here a sprawling spider’s web of blue, red, yellow, white and pink prayer flags runs up the slopes, down the slopes and over the ravine, covering every inch of land.
A steep trail (a popular kora route for pilgrims) ascends from the end of the row of eight chörtens (Tibetan stupas)to the left of the temple. At the end of the trail head up the grassy side valley for some great hiking and stunning open views.
Private minibuses (¥200 return) depart from outside the long-distance bus terminal in Yùshù, or a taxi costs about ¥100 return.
Nangchen 囊谦
%0976 / Pop 3630m
The scenic county of Nangchen (囊谦; Nángqiān), a former Tibetan kingdom, is the end of the line for most travellers. The drive from Yùshù to the dusty little county capital of Sharda (香达镇; Xiāngdá Zhèn; 3630m), colloquially referred to as Nangchen, takes you past some incredibly diverse landscapes filled with mountains, valleys, monasteries, rushing rivers and a plethora of animals and flora. You'll be tempted to stop the driver to take photos along every bend in the road.
Further south is the Qīnghǎi–Tibet border, with roads to Riwoche and Chamdo, but foreigners aren't allowed access. As you approach Nangchen, you'll pass through the 'new' town, 90% of whose buildings are unoccupied. Everything happens in the old town where the bus drops you.
1Sights
Gading GompaBUDDHIST MONASTERY
(嘎丁寺; Gādīng Sì h8am-6pm)
Nestled on a piece of land within a horseshoe bend in the Dzichu River, Gading makes for one of the most stunning photos you could take in the region. The monastery itself is nothing special, but hike up the hill opposite for views across both sides of the valley. When you're done, pitch a tent and have a picnic along the river.
Gading Gompa is 15km from Nangchen. A car will cost ¥350 return.
Dana GompaBUDDHIST MONASTERY
(达那寺; Dánǎ Sì h8am-6pm)
The stunning Dana Monastery is remote and the road out from Nangchen takes you across a valley towards 4000m elevation. Once there, you'll find the province's largest nunnery. Getting out here is expensive and drivers will ask ¥1200 for the 320km return journey. It can be included on a tour itinerary.
Gar GompaBUDDHIST MONASTERY
(尕尔寺; Gǎ’ěr Sì h8am-6pm)
Nestled on the ridge of a forested mountain about 70km south of Nangchen is this picturesque monastery. Wildlife is prevalent in the area, including blue sheep and monkeys. It’s a popular spot for birdwatchers. A taxi from Nangchen costs about ¥550 return.
4Sleeping & Eating
Hotels are pricey for the poor standards on offer, and not all accept foreigners.
Dōngfāng BīnguǎnHOTEL$
(东方宾馆; Dōngfāng Bīnguǎn %152 9702 5483; Xiangda Nanjie; 香达南街 d ¥150; W)
With clean bathrooms and hot showers, this Salar-run hotel has bright rooms with fresh linens and heating in the winter. Located in an unfinished-looking concrete block as you head 100m south down Xiangda Nanjie.
Travellers report that sometimes this hotel has issues registering foreigners. Your best bet is to ask when you arrive.
Yǎzhuō Shāngwù BīnguǎnHOTEL$$
&nbs
p; (雅卓商务宾馆 %0976 887 5555; Xiangda Donglu; 香达东路 d ¥288; W)
Clean, decent option with Western toilets, wi-fi and breakfast. Off-season rates drop to ¥180. Located on the main road 100m east before the bus station. Rates include breakfast.
Zhēngqì Niúròu Miàn GuǎnNOODLES$
(蒸汽牛肉面馆 Xiangda Dongjie; 香达东街 dishes ¥12-20; h9am-9pm)
A popular and cheap place for Muslim-style noodles. Try the zhá jiàng miàn (炸酱面), a dish consisting of hearty meat noodles topped with minced beef. Located roughly 200m west of the main bus station. There's another branch on Xiangda Nanjie near Dōngfāng Bīnguǎn.
8Information
Most hotels now have wi-fi.
Agricultural Bank of ChinaBANK
(农业银行; Nóngyè Yínháng Xiangda Dongjie; 香达东街 )
ATM accepts foreign cards.
8Getting There & Away
Bus
From Nangchen bus station on the main road, one daily bus goes to Xīníng (¥264, 15 to 18 hours) departing at 10am. Book at least one day in advance.
To reach Yùshù (¥50, three hours), most locals travel by shared minibuses, which assemble on the main road outside Nangchen's bus station.
8Getting Around
Nangchen itself is a dusty town where you're likely to see stray dogs trotting beside cows on the main street. You'll need to hire a taxi to see many of the sights around town, or contact Gesartour in Yùshù for a trip out here via the back roads. The route takes twice as long to travel but offers plenty of picturesque stops, including a hike up to the hills behind Gādīng Sì (嘎丁寺) where you can take Instagram-worthy snaps of the monastery sitting on a piece of land in a horseshoe bend along the Dzichu River.
HIKING ON MT AMNYE MACHEN
Mt Amnye MachenMOUNTAIN
(阿尼玛卿; Ānímǎqīng )
The 6282m peak of Machen Kangri, or Mt Amnye Machen, is Amdo’s most sacred mountain – it’s eastern Tibet’s equivalent to Mt Kailash in western Tibet. Tibetan pilgrims travel for weeks to circumambulate the peak, believing it to be home to the protector deity Machen Pomra. The circuit’s sacred geography and wild mountain scenery make it a fantastic, adventurous trekking destination.
Unfortunately, much of the route is suffering the effects of a major road project that will see elevated bridges and asphalt highways passing through the Amnye Machen region. This means that you may spend much of the route covered in dust billowing in the wake of heavy vehicles. The construction is slated to be completed in 2017/18 (depending on which section you're in). It's best to check before you go.
The full circuit takes around 11 days (including transport to/from Xīníng), though tourists often limit themselves to a half circuit. Several monasteries lie alongside the route. With almost all of the route above 4000m, and the highest pass hitting 4600m, it’s essential to acclimatise before setting off, preferably by spending a night or two at the nearby Mǎduō (玛多; 4290m). The best months to trek are May to October, though be prepared for snow early and late in the season.
Since local public transport is almost nonexistent, most trekkers go on an organised tour. Expect to pay around US$180 per person per day, all-inclusive in a group, and double or triple that if you are going solo. During the construction period, the tour agencies listed in the Xīnīng section take trekkers on an alternate (non-pilgrimage) route through the less disturbed parts of Mt Amnye Machen.
If you do want to try venturing out on your own, take the bus to Huāshíxiá (花石峡) or Mǎduō and then hitch or hire a shared minivan (¥300 to ¥400 per person) to Xiàdàwǔ (下大吾). Mǎduō is slightly further away but it has better amenities and you can pack in an excursion to the Source of the Yellow River.
In Xiàdàwǔ the starting point for the kora (holy hike) path is at Guru Gompa (格日寺; Gērì Sì), and from here follow the road east. After three days the road peters out near Xuěshān (雪山), from where you can hitch a ride to Mǎqìn. If you intend to continue past Xuěshān you’ll need to ask a local to show you the kora path. In Xiàdàwǔ, a guide costs ¥150 to ¥200 per day, and it’s about the same price for a packhorse or yak. You'll need to be fully sufficient and bring a tent, sleeping bag etc.
Golmud 格尔木
%0979 / Pop 200,000 / Elevation 2800m
For three decades Golmud (格尔木; Gé'ěrmù) faithfully served overlanders as the last jumping-off point before Lhasa. Bedraggled backpackers hung around the city’s truck depot trying to negotiate a lift to the ‘Roof of the World’. But since the completion of the Qīnghǎi–Tibet Railway, this lonesome backwater has become even less important, as most Tibet-bound travellers board the train elsewhere and blow right through town. Today it’s mostly of use to travellers trying to get between Lhasa and Dūnhuáng (in Gānsù) or Huātǔgōu (en route to Xīnjiāng).
4Sleeping & Eating
There are plenty of hotels in Golmud – unfortunately only a few accept foreigners.
Dōngfāng HotelHOTEL$
(东方宾馆; Dōngfāng Bīnguǎn GOOGLE MAP ; %0979 841 0011; 7 Bayi Zhonglu; 八一中路7号 d ¥98-118; W)
This centrally located hotel has decent rooms rough round the edges. Some of the larger rooms come with floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking noisy Hédōng Market (河东市场; Hédōng Shìchǎng) and the main street. It's a ¥6 taxi ride from the train station.
oQíjì Shǒugōng Miànpiān FāngCHINESE ISLAMIC$
(祁记手工面片坊 GOOGLE MAP ; Bayi Zhonglu; noodles ¥13-15, dishes ¥5-50; h9am-10.30pm)
An unexpected gem, this noodle joint has both style that wouldn't look out of place in Běijīng and substance by way of delicious handmade miànpiān (面片; noodle slices). With its almost-Scandi decor and friendly service, it's not hard to return here for noodles, suānnǎi (酸奶; yoghurt), cold dishes and other chunkier meat options displayed in a glass case.
8Information
Agricultural Bank of ChinaATM
(农业银行; Nóngyè Yínháng GOOGLE MAP ; Bayi Zhonglu)
Has a 24-hour ATM that accepts foreign cards.
Bank of ChinaBANK
(中国银行; Zhōngguó Yínháng GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Kunlun Lu & Chaidamu Lu; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4.30pm Sat & Sun)
Changes cash. Foreign-friendly ATM.
CAACTRAVEL AGENCY
(机场售票处; Jīchǎng Shòupiàochù GOOGLE MAP ; %24hr booking line 0979 842 3333; h8.30am-6pm)
Can help book onward flights.
China PostPOST
(中国邮政; Zhōngguó Yóuzhèng GOOGLE MAP ; 38 Yingbing Lu; h9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri)
Located 100m north of the main train station.
China Travel ServiceTRAVEL AGENCY
(CTS; 中国旅行社; Zhōngguó Lǚxíngshè GOOGLE MAP ; %0979 725 8858; 3rd fl, 46 Kunlun Zhonglu Wumao Dasha; 昆仑中路46号物贸大厦3层 h8.30am-6pm Mon-Fri)
The only place in town that can arrange Tibet permits, though it takes seven to 10 days. Best used as a last resort. Limited English.
Public Security BureauPOLICE
(PSB; 公安局; Gōng’ānjú GOOGLE MAP ; 6 Chaidamu Dong Lu; h8am-noon & 2.30-5pm Mon-Fri)
Can extend visas.
8Getting There & Away
Golmud's airport is 15km west of town. Daily flights go to Xīníng (¥1500), Xī‘ān (¥1500) and Běijīng (¥3500).
There are buses to a number of destinations in Qīnghǎi and neighbouring provinces from Golmud’s main bus station (格尔木长途车站; Gé’ěrmù Chángtú Chēzhàn GOOGLE MAP ; %0979 845 3688; 23 Jiangyuan Nanlu; 江源南路23号 ) including Dūnhuáng (¥115, 10 hours, 9am and 11am), Huātǔgōu (¥106, six hours, 10am and 11am) and Xīníng (¥140, 11 to 14 hours, 4pm, 5pm, 6pm). There is also a bus to Charklik (Ruòqiāng; ¥228, 12 hours, 11am) in Xīnjīang.
Trains to Lhasa (hard sleeper ¥375, 14 hours) depart from Golmud Railway Station (格尔木火车站; Gé'ěrmù Huǒchē Zhàn GOOGLE MAP ; %0979 722 2222; Yingbin Lu; 迎宾路 ) late in the night or past midn
ight; you’ll need your Tibet permit to be in order to board. Trains also go to Xīníng (hard sleeper ¥208, eight to 10 hours).
8Getting Around
A taxi to/from Golmud Airport costs ¥50.
Local taxis start at ¥6 for 3km and ¥1.30 per kilometer thereafter.
Mǎduō 玛多
%0975 / Pop 10,750 / Elevation 4290m
Mǎduō (玛多) is a burgeoning town now popular as a launch pad for visits to Zhālíng and Èlíng Lakes, purportedly the source of the Yellow River. The town isn't much more than two streets but there are a couple of good hotels and eating options. Remember this area is over 4000m high so altitude sickness is a real risk. Consider coming from Yùshù (3680m) rather than Xīníng (2275m) so you don’t have to ascend too much in one go. Temperatures in Mǎduō can drop to near zero even in summer so come prepared.
Zhālíng & Èlíng LakesLAKE
(扎陵湖和鄂陵湖; Zhālíng Hú Hé Èlíng Hú Níutóubēi (牛头碑) ¥80)
These lakes are the widely accepted source of the Yellow River, and most Chinese tourists drive or hire a vehicle to take them to níutóubēi (牛头碑), an engraved stone tablet that marks the 'source'. There’s nowhere to stay or eat, so most people visit as a day trip from Mǎduō. SUVs or minivans will take you to the lake and back for ¥800 to ¥1000 per vehicle (four to five hours return).
Lonely Planet China Page 189