The Mountain
Page 31
Carter, Ad, 175, 178
Carter, Dave, 130, 135, 219–20, 226–27, 228, 229–32
Casarotto, Renato, 64
Cassell, Jay, 258
Caucasus, 81
Central Rongbuk Glacier, 2, 35, 68
cerebral edema, 21
Chamoux, Benoît, 64, 280
Cheesmond, Dave, 256, 258–59
Cheme, Da, 90
Child, Greg, 210, 293–94, 302
Chin, Jimmy, 295
China, 30, 80–81, 299
Tibet invaded by, 111–12, 169
China Reconstructs, 172
Chinese Mountaineering Association (CMA), 80
Chobuk, 34
Chomolungma, see Everest, Mount
Cho Oyu, 73, 121, 157, 159, 218
Chotari (Sherpa), 189
Chu Yin-hua, 174, 175
Cichy, Leszek, 266, 268, 269, 270–71
Clark, Liesl, 219–20, 222, 226, 232
Clarke, Dave, 247
Climb, The (Boukreev), 203–4
Clinch, Nick, 178, 179
clothing, 42
Clough, Ian, 249
Colbert, Stephen, 108
Colbert Report, The, 108
Cook, Frederick A., 171–72, 177
Corbet, Barry, 185, 187, 188, 196, 197, 198
Coronation Everest (Morris), 205
Cortés, Hernán, 109
Cotter, Guy, 159–60, 161–62, 165–66, 218, 219, 222–23, 229, 231
Couzy, Jean, 179
Crawford, Colin, 46
Cronlund, Lasse, 17–19
Cumming, John, 150
Dablam, Ama, 185
Dalai Lama, 31, 80, 111–12
Daldry, Stephen, 295–97
Darjeeling, 104
David, Edgeworth, 262
Davidson, Art, 263
Davis, Dennis, 183
Davis, Wade, 49–50
Dawa, Losang, 85
Denali, 2, 3, 21, 63, 303
Desio, Ardito, 32, 103, 109, 239
Destivelle, Catherine, 110
Dhaulagiri, 206, 281, 293
Dickinson, Matt, 204
Diemberger, Kurt, 103, 181, 251
Dingboche, 154
Dingman, Dave, 200
Dinnen, Joe, 75
Donner, Howard, 219, 220, 230
Doody, Dan, 190
Dorje, Ang, 155–56
Dorje, Girmi, 200
Dorje, Mingma, 120, 228
Dorje, Pemba, 300
Dujmovits, Ralf, 294, 298
Dunn, George, 3, 6, 10–11, 12, 13–15, 18, 19
Dyhrenfurth, Norman, 179–81, 183–84, 186, 188, 189, 190–91, 194, 195, 196, 197, 235, 238
Eastman, Jodie, 142
East Rongbuk Glacier, 5–6, 35–36, 37, 40, 51, 84, 148, 276
Eddie Bauer, 27, 303–4, 306
efficiency, xiv
Eiger, 40, 263, 273
Elbrus, Mount, 81
Elizabeth II, Queen of England, 124
Emerson, Dick, xii, 185, 188, 197
Endeavor 8000, 158, 167, 206, 218, 293–94, 303
Ershler, Phil, 11–12, 19, 78, 128–29
Estcourt, Nick, 187, 237, 240–41, 243
Evans, Charles, 123–24, 125, 242
Evening News, 31
Everest, George, 29
Everest, Mount, xv
alleged 1952 Soviet climb of, 170–72
all-Sherpa expedition to, 133
Balcony of, 119
bodies on, 210, 228–29
Bowling Alley of, 252–53
Chinese 1960 expedition to, 172–78
“circus” atmosphere on, 23–24
as “climbed out,” 301
discovery of, 28–29
east face of, 68–69
EV’s first climb of, 1–2, 4–20, 22
Fantasy Ridge, 301
“fast and light” climbing style on, 101–2, 104, 105, 106, 108, 121–22, 123
first American ascent of, 194–95
first expedition to, 31
fixed ropes on, 309
Geneva Spur of, 118, 119, 123, 155
Great (Norton) Couloir of, 2, 5, 6, 9–10, 11, 12, 16, 18, 53, 57, 100, 140, 143, 145, 276, 278
Grey Band, 19
guide clients on, 224
guiding on, 129, 151, 205–6, 224–25
Hillary Step of, 124, 192, 228–29, 258, 299
history of, 27–59
Hornbein Couloir of, 21, 195, 281, 287–88
Horseshoe Traverse of, 301–2
IMAX film of, 206–7, 208–9, 211–12, 215–17, 242
Japanese Couloir of, 21, 140, 143, 281, 287
Kangshung Face of, 22, 65, 66, 68–69, 70–73, 75, 148, 233–34, 250–59, 261, 301
Khumbu Icefall of, 36, 112, 115, 118, 123, 128, 130, 151, 161–62, 163, 169, 186, 187, 208, 216, 222, 268
lack of American interest in, 178
Lhotse Face of, 1–2, 118, 123, 128, 133, 155, 163, 169, 210–11, 216, 226, 227, 298, 307
Messner’s solo climb of, 274–80
naming of, 29
negative media attention to, 297–98
1921 expedition to, 31–37
1922 expedition to, 39–47
1924 expedition to, 48–55
1933 expedition to, 99–100, 104
1935 attempted expedition to, 104
1936 expedition to, 104–5
1938 expedition to, 103–4, 106–7
1953 British campaign against, 121–22
1953 expedition to, 122–25
1981 Kangshung team, 251–59
1984 expedition to, 10–13
1996 disaster on, 23–24, 203–18, 295
1996 IMAX expedition of, 33
North Col of, see North Col
north side of, 2, 6
official altitude of, 29
overcrowding on, 25–26, 210–11, 296, 298–99
public interest in, 116
refuse on, 171
as routine, 261–62
South Col route of, 1, 25, 114, 118–19, 128, 133, 155, 169, 233
southern approaches of, 112–13
South Summit of, 120, 124, 193–94, 247
Southwest Face of, 233, 234–35, 236–37, 238, 239, 248, 250, 261
Swiss expeditions to, 117–21
timing of expeditions to, 36, 40
Triangular Face of, 309
2012 deaths on, 298–99
Western Cwm, 36, 112, 114, 115, 118, 123, 128, 155, 163, 188, 307
West Ridge route of, 20, 63, 183–86, 188–89, 195, 201, 235
winter ascent of, 262–71
Yellow Band, 14–15, 18, 19, 52, 53, 99, 118, 195, 198, 278
Everest Committee, 31, 39, 47
Everest International Peace Climb, 78–98, 108, 130, 181, 190, 242, 305
Everest: The Death Zone (film), 219, 232
Everest: The Hard Way (Bonington), 238
Everest: The Mountaineering History (Unsworth), 28
Everest: The Ultimate Hump (Knight), 24
Everest: The West Ridge (Hornbein), 183, 184, 188–89, 196
fame, 110–11
Finch, George, 40, 41, 45, 46, 111, 150
First Ascent, 27, 304, 305
First Step, 55, 99
Fischer, Scott, 23, 139, 154, 156, 158, 163, 165, 204, 206, 207–8, 211, 213, 214, 215, 216, 218, 221–22, 224, 228, 295, 304, 311
Fiut, Walenty, 269
Foraker, Mount, 113
Ford, Glenn, 182
Foster, Jodie, 232
Freedom Climbers (McDonald), 264, 272
Friesen, Gil, 142, 150
Frost, Tom, 238, 241
frostbite, 42, 43, 45, 65, 262
Gall, Steve, 81, 84, 85, 89–90, 92, 130, 131, 134, 135
“Games Climbers Play” (Tejada-Flores), xii
Gammelgaard, Lene, 203
Gamow bag, 223
Gao Ming-Ho, 213, 214
Gasherbrum I, 158, 167, 178, 206, 267, 273
Gasherbrum II, 158,
167, 206, 267
Gasherbrum IV, 235
Gaurishankar, 11
Genet, Ray, 21, 263
Georgia Mount Everest Expedition, 62–77
Germany, 102
Gilkey, Art, 85–86, 180
Giller, Sue, 251, 252, 253, 255
Gillman, Peter, 259
Goff, Darrin, 130, 134, 135, 136–37
Gombu, Nawang (Sherpa), 189–90, 191–94
Goodell, Roger, 303
Gorak Shep, 159
Gorbenko, Mstislav (“Slava”), 90–91, 92, 93, 95, 96
Great Britain, 102, 117
Great Exploration Hoaxes (Roberts), 177
Great Trigonometrical Survey of India, 28–29
Gundelach, Ekke, 151–57
Gunn, Carolyn, 142, 144
Gustafsson, Veikka, 109, 167, 206, 215, 218, 220, 222, 223, 228, 271, 294–96, 302
Habeler, xii
Habeler, Peter, xii, 3, 41, 70, 251, 273–74, 275
Hahn, Dave, 57, 305
Hall, Jan Arnold, 153, 157
Hall, Rob, 23, 150–57, 158, 159, 160–61, 162, 164, 165–66, 204, 206, 207–8, 218, 295, 304
hallucinations, 277–78, 289, 290
Hansen, Doug, 162, 164–65, 166, 167, 214, 215
Harris, Percy Wyn, 55, 56, 99–100
Harvard, Andy, 250, 255, 256
Haston, Dougal, 235, 236–37, 238–39, 240, 241–48
Hawley, Elizabeth, xv, xvi, 272, 301
Heinrich, Andrzej, 264, 266
heparin, 86
Herrligkoffer, Karl, 32, 239
Herrod, Bruce, 229
Herzog, Maurice, 109, 279, 312
Hiebeler, Toni, 235, 263
High Adventure (Hillary), 205
high-altitude physiology, 221
High Crimes: The Fate of Everest in an Age of Greed (Kodas), 24
High Exposure (Breashears), 255
Hillary, Edmund, 1, 36, 55, 65, 109, 114–15, 120–21, 122, 124–25, 169, 170, 189, 191, 205, 236, 251, 254–55, 311
Himalayan Committee of the Alpine Club, 116, 121–22
Himalayan Journal, 120–21
Hoey, Marty, 15, 22
death of, 13
Holguin, Nena, 275–76, 279–80
Hornbein, Tom, 20, 26, 63, 183–84, 185, 188–89, 195, 196, 197, 198–99, 200–201, 221, 233, 245, 247, 289
Houston, Charles, 86, 112–14, 139, 178, 180
Houston, Oscar, 112, 113–14
Howard-Bury, Charles Kenneth, 31, 34
Humar, Tomaž, 110
Hunt, John, 122, 123, 128, 205
hydrocodone, 8
hypothermia, 262
“Icefall Doctors,” 115
Ila Tsering (Sherpa), 186
Inca empire, 109
India, 30
International Geophysical Year of 1957–58, 110
internationalism, 108
Into the Silence (Davis), 49–50
Into Thin Air (Krakauer), 23–24, 129, 184, 203, 204, 224, 295, 297
Iñurrategi, Alberto, 109
Irvine, Andrew “Sandy,” 5, 48, 52, 53–55, 57, 58, 59, 99, 100, 106, 120, 125, 278
Ivanova, Yekaterina, 97
JanSport, 3
Jerstad, Lute, 189, 196–97, 200
Jhantugan, 81
Johnston, Dave, 263
Jones, Chris, 251, 255
Joos, Norbert, 281–82
Jorge (client), 223–24
K2, 11, 26, 27, 30, 32, 44, 63–64, 85–86, 108, 112, 127, 139–40, 149, 163, 178, 180, 187, 244, 250–51, 267, 281
Magic Line of, 63
K2: Life and Death on the World’s Most Dangerous Mountain (Viesturs), 26, 64, 139–40
K2: The Savage Mountain (Bates & Houston), 139
Kagge, Erling, 152–57, 223
Kaltenbrunner, Gerlinde, 294
Kangchenjunga, xii, 30, 62, 72, 77–78, 90, 102, 139, 253–54, 281
Kangshung Glacier, 250
Karina, 161–62, 163
Kathmandu, 86
Kauffman, Andy, 178
Keaton, Dave, 151–57
Kellas, Alexander, 31, 34
Kennedy, Bobby, 79
Kennedy, Mount, 78–79
Kennedy, Teddy, 83
Keynes, Geoffrey, 49
Kharta Glacier, 37, 38
Khumbu Glacier, 114, 285
Khumbu valley, 113–14, 128
Knight, Tami, 24
Kodas, Michael, 24
Krakauer, Jon, 23–24, 129, 184, 203–4, 205, 207, 215, 224
Kropp, Göran, 204
Kukuczka, Jerzy, xiv, 64, 73, 280–81
Lafaille, Jean-Christophe, 8, 49, 109, 277, 291, 293, 304
La Forest, Yves, 137
Lambert, Raymond, 117, 119–20, 123, 191
Les 8000 Rugissants (Loretan), 281–82, 291
Lhakpa La, 38
Lhasa, 31
Lho La, 36, 112, 285
Lhotse, 112, 169, 179, 180, 183, 264, 265
Lhotse Face, 1–2
Life, 210
Life magazine, 235
Life on the Edge, A (Link), 89
Lingtren, 36, 112
Link, Robert (Robo), 81, 89–90, 92, 128, 129, 130, 131, 133, 134, 135
Liu Lien-man, 174, 175
“load wars,” 62–63
Lobsang Jangbu, 164, 165, 166
London Times, 124, 170
Longstaff, Tom, 47, 49
Loretan, Erhard, 70, 73, 140, 280–92, 299, 311
Lost Explorer, The (Anker), 56, 57
Lowe, George, 124, 251, 252, 253, 255, 258–59
Luniakov, Grigori, 90, 93
McDonald, Bernadette, 264, 265–67, 269–70, 272
Mace, Charley, 139
MacGillivray Freeman Films, 206, 216
McGowan, Dick, 179
MacInnes, Hamish, 237, 242
Mackay, Alistair, 262
McKinley, Mount, 185, 263
Maestri, Cesare, 274
Makalu, 11, 27, 38, 49, 158, 167, 179, 206
Mallory, George Leigh, 5, 28, 32–39, 41, 42, 43, 44, 45–46, 47, 48, 49, 51, 52, 53–55, 56–59, 99, 100, 106, 111, 112, 120, 125, 171, 176, 233, 250, 275, 278, 301, 311
as absentminded, 37
body found, 56
lecture tour of, 47–48
war experience of, 50
Mallory, Ruth, 34, 47, 49
Manaslu, 206, 218, 293
Marshall, Roger, 21, 140
Masherbrum, 178–79, 180, 185
Massif, Vinson, 303
Matterhorn, 263
Mauduit, Chantal, 162–63, 164, 165–66, 167, 304
Mauri, Carlo, 235
Mawson, Douglas, 109, 262
Mazeaud, Pierre, 235
Messner, Günther, 274–75
Messner, Reinhold, xii, xiv, 3, 4, 11, 26, 41, 63, 70, 111, 140, 250–51, 259, 272, 273–80, 283, 311
Middle Trango Tower, 11
Miller, Maynard, 195
Mims, Donnie, 74–75
Ministry of Tourism, 25, 270, 272
Minya Konka, 178
Momb, Kim, 253, 255, 257–58
monsoons, 73, 104, 105, 106, 141, 149, 262, 275
monsoon season, 36, 39
Mont Blanc, 117, 261
Moore, Terris, 178
Moro, Simone, 8
Morris, James, 124, 205
Morrissey, Jim, 255–56, 259
Morshead, Henry, 38, 40, 42, 43, 45
Mountain (Wilson), 236
Mountaineers Books, 184
Mountain Hardwear, 150, 157
mountain sickness, 134
MTV, 142, 150
Mummery, Albert F., 30, 33, 261, 263
“Murder of the Impossible, The” (Messner), 274
MZH, 142
Namche Bazaar, 114
Nanda Devi, 11, 105, 113, 178
Nanga Parbat, 27, 29–30, 32, 33, 102, 206, 267, 293
NASA, 182
National Geographic Society, 78, 79, 181, 185
nation
alism, 102–3, 108–10, 235
National Science Foundation, 182
Nepal, 25, 30, 36, 67, 73, 112, 128, 159, 266, 299
Nielson, Larry, 12–13, 21
nieves penitentes, 35
Nima Tenzing, 189
Niquille, Nicole, 282–83
Nisqually Glacier, 80
Noel, John, 30–31
Norbu, 156
Norbu, Nima, 156
Norgay, Jamling, 204, 209, 210, 212, 217
Norgay, Tenzing, 1, 36, 65, 104, 106–7, 117, 119–20, 121, 123, 124, 125, 170, 189–90, 191, 209, 236, 311
North Col, 2, 5, 35, 36, 38, 39, 40, 42, 51, 104, 105, 148, 233, 276
avalanches on, 46
North Twin, 251
Norton, E. F. “Teddy,” 40, 42, 43, 44, 48, 50, 51, 52–53, 57, 99, 100, 273, 278
Noshaq, 265
No Shortcuts to the Top (Viesturs), 24, 139, 158, 205, 210, 217
Nova, 218–19, 225, 228, 229
Noyce, Wilfrid, 205
Nuptse, 183
nylon ropes, 44
obsession, 48–49
Odell, Noel, 48, 51–52, 53–55, 58, 101, 105, 106, 113, 178
O’Dowd, Cathy, 301
Oh Eun-Sun, 110
Ousland, Børge, 152–57
Outside magazine, 72, 141, 207
Pakistan, 30, 73
Papenfus, Kurt, 130, 134, 135
parapente, 284–85
Peace Climb, see Everest International Peace Climb
Pema, Ang, 186
Pennington, Alan, 63–64
Pertemba (Sherpa), 243, 248–49
Peter (client), 222–23, 224
Pinsetter Camp, 253
Piotrowski, Tadeusz, 263–64
Pittman, Sandy, 24, 224
Pizarro, Francisco, 109
Pochylý, Pavel, 263
Poland, 264–65
Polaris, 128
Pole to Pole & Beyond (Kagge), 156
Politz, Andy, 61–76, 138–39, 234, 251, 257
Politz, Jonathan “Bam Bam,” 66, 75
Politz, Lisa, 66, 75
Polo Ralph Lauren, 142
Pownall, Dick, 186
Prather, Barry, 197
puja, 50–51
pulley system, 256
Pumori, 114
Pury (Sherpa), 135
Pye, David, 41, 48
Raeburn, Harold, 34
Rainier, Mount, 2, 4, 27, 61, 62–63, 80, 128, 159
Rainier Mountaineering Inc. (RMI), 2, 62
Rains, Claude, 182
Recreational Equipment, Inc. (REI), 190
Reichardt, Lou, 250–51, 253, 255–56, 257, 258, 259
Reid, Dan, 255, 258
Richey, Mark, 137
Ridgeway, Rick, 250
risk, xiv–xv
Roberts, David, xi, 56, 177, 263, 275, 282
Roberts, Gil, 186–87, 194
Rock and Ice, 293–94
Rongbuk Glacier, 13, 35–36, 37, 38, 40, 82–83, 142, 143, 172
Rongbuk Monastery, 50–51
Rongbuk valley, 34
ropes, 44, 309
Roskelley, John, 11–12, 17, 72, 143, 149, 250, 251, 253–56
Rouse, Alan, 64
Royal Geographical Society (RGS), 30, 31, 116, 128, 190, 305