Surfer Girls Kick Ass

by Tiffany Manchester

  ‘New season starts in a couple of months.’ I said casually. ‘Remind me. How do I know you?’

  ‘Oh, you don’t really know me, but my sister is on tour as well, so I sometimes travel with her.’

  ‘Who’s your sister?’

  ‘Bailey Wells. And I’m Bridget.’

  Ah yes, Bailey, the rookie who won my heat in Maui.

  ‘Oh cool Bridget, nice to meet you. Okay, now I remember seeing you two together. Awesome. How’s Bailey doing?’

  ‘She’s great, actually! She’s up in Indo right now, filming an ad for one of her sponsors. Um, can’t remember which one.’

  ‘No way! That’s awesome!’ I pretended to be happy for her, but the truth is, I was jealous. Hmm, I’m going to have to work on that, I thought, wondering what reason I had for feeling this way.

  We scrambled to get into position for the next set coming in. I was feeling feisty so I dropped into the wave real deep, popping up seamlessly and grabbing rail as I sped down the line. About 8 feet ahead, I noticed someone about to be in my way, so I went for a hard cutback to avoid running into him. Instead, I caught my edge and wiped out. At least we didn’t collide.

  I got back on my board quickly and hurriedly paddled out to position, eager for another wave. I couldn’t see Bridget, but no matter. I needed to focus on surfing, not talking. I took a few smaller waves over the next 30 minutes and felt pretty warmed up. I stared out towards the horizon in between waves and repeated my new mantra over and over:

  ‘Let the ocean move you.’

  I was doing my best to follow its lead by paying close attention to the current and how I had to keep paddling to stay in position.

  ‘Let the ocean move you...’

  Hmm… I decided to let myself drift with the current to experiment with the mantra. Slowly but surely, I drifted about five meters away from the crowd. There was nobody over here, which is not surprising, since Spanky’s is a more predictable and consistent wave. Nonetheless, I waited patiently, continuing to listen to the ocean’s movements and doing my best to follow the mantra. Well, at least follow my interpretation of what it meant.

  As I drifted, something in the distance caught my attention. It looked like a random set coming in from a different swell direction. Weird, I thought. But as I watched it move, it seemed to be lining up in my favour. It wasn’t huge, but it was definitely beginning to form in front of me.

  ‘No way!’ I exclaimed out loud. I paddled into position. I still wasn’t sure if it was a left or a right until I saw it about to peak in the middle. ‘Damn!’ It looked good both ways, but from where I was positioned I had to go right. It was such a sweet peeler, glassy and clean. It opened up beautifully as I sailed down the line, enjoying the opportunity to play with the whole face of the wave. I completed a nice, wide bottom turn, then came up and did a big hack, releasing my fin and making some spray before going back down and up again for a floater. The wave continued and I continued with it. It was beautiful and perfect. I peeled off the top feeling stoked.

  Let the ocean move you, I thought again.

  I paddled back out quickly, and caught another wave immediately, this time going left. I focused again on letting the ocean move me by feeling for a graceful flow. The wave was moving at just the right pace: not too fast and not too slow. It made my connection to it feel natural, effortless even. Instead of trying to carve out big moves and hacks forcefully, I focused on letting the wave tell me where to go and what to do.

  In competition, there’s a list of moves I will ideally want to do to maximize points. But the reality is I can only do what the wave will allow, which is dictated by its shape, its speed, and a number of other factors like wind and tide etc. It’s easy to rush through moves, forcing the flow, instead following it. It’s like trying to find the balance between your head and your heart. The wave is the heart, but it’s super easy to let your head get in the way and push through what you want to happen.

  ‘This is what I’ve been missing! I need work with the rhythm of the wave. More heart, less head. Okay, I think I’ve got the message!’

  For the next hour, I tuned in with the waves as if we were one. A few people had paddled over after they saw my rides, but I didn’t let it disrupt my focus. Instead, I kept my mind on the ocean and let go of everything else. In surfing, just as in life, there are days when all the right elements line up in your favour. And this was one of those days...

  I could barely contain my excitement when as I rinsed off in the outdoor shower before heading back to the car.

  S had entrusted me with her fancy vehicle, which was really a horrible idea because I don’t drive all that often. In any case, she had insisted I take it, and that she’d get a ride home from someone else. (Though I’m pretty sure she was referring to Kiko.) How could I argue with that?

  I dug my key out of my wetsuit, chucked my board in the back, hopped in and drove home, my smile wide with enthusiasm, starving as usual.

  CHAPTER

  27

  For the next week or so I worked out almost every day with the lifeguards, and it turned out to be an amazingly easy way for me to get to know new people without having to socialize per se. Plus, it taught me new ways to train my mind and body.

  For example: Stacy, a tall lean brunette, was into beach volleyball. In her workout, she had us warm up with a bunch of super exhausting sprints before working in pairs at the beach volleyball nets to do some cool team-building stuff. In one of the pair exercises, one person would serve the ball while yelling out an easy math equation. Then, the other person had to yell out the answer while also returning the ball. It was surprisingly difficult at first, but it was also amazing to see how quickly we were able to adapt and progress.

  Another lifeguard named Tess was into chess, so she taught us the importance of thinking ahead, and how to out-manoeuvre others. She had us do this crazy fun game in the carpark. She showed us a printed plan of the carpark, on which she had numbered each space randomly. After giving us only a brief minute to look at the sheet, she put it away. Our job was to remember what each parking space was numbered, and then, as she called out one of the numbers, we had to run to its corresponding spot. It was harder than it sounds – not just remembering which number went with which spot, but because I’d end up following someone else’s lead even though I knew the answer on my own. Interestingly, I began to trust myself slowly over the course of the game.

  I led the group in a session as well, and took them surfing! They varied in levels, but it didn’t matter because I made sure we were all helping one another out. And before we jumped in the water, I gave them a brief talk on mindset and how to stay calm in moments of fear. The session reminded me of the importance of working together as a team, and the joy I feel from helping others to overcome their fears. It was a humbling experience that gave me perspective.

  Yet my favourite morning was Kiko’s workout. She led us in a tai chi session and I can’t even begin to tell you how ah-may-zing it was!

  Tai chi is considered by many as a martial art, but unlike the fast pace and high impact characteristics of other martial arts like karate or tai kwon do, the movements of tai chi are typically slow with no impact. It incorporates elements like breathing, self-defence, meditation, and hand forms. And I found it very difficult to maintain focus.

  The slow movements made me antsy. I had to fight off a strong urge to ditch class and dive into the ocean. I didn’t, but only because I wouldn’t want to embarrass myself. I tried to come up with another exit strategy. Pee break? Faint? Leg cramp? As I pondered alternatives, something strange happened. I zoned out completely and became fully immersed in the rhythm of the movements. I didn’t even realize I was doing them! In fact, apparently I wasn’t thinking about time or surfing or anything at all. When the session was over, it felt like only a minute had passed! I felt wonderfully calm, which I made sure to mention to K
iko.

  ‘Good on ya, mate, that’s fab! It’s all about coordination and relaxation, rather than muscular tension, so you got it!’ Her voice was confident.

  ‘Is that why you made us run up and down the beach first? To get us all revved up?’

  ‘Yeah, I wanted you to feel a real contrast. Well, I wanted you to get a good sweat going too!’ she said, laughing. ‘Do you ever meditate, Zoe?’

  ‘Um not really, no. I guess not.’

  ‘Well, tai chi is a form of meditation, which means it’ll help to clear your mind of thoughts so that you can focus on the moment. Anyway, I gotta jet, Z. I see someone I need to talk to. Catch you later!’

  ‘Right on, Kiko,’ I said. But she was already sprinting off towards whoever it was.

  My session in the water that day was perfection, and I’m pretty sure I owe it to the tai chi. My mind was calm, so my thoughts didn’t interrupt the great task of listening to the ocean. It made it a lot easier to feel where the waves were going to line up, which allowed me to focus on technique. Specifically, maintaining speed and linking manoeuvres without a break in the action, which is important in terms of pleasing the judges.

  Listening and feeling had been my two biggest lessons over the last couple of weeks, and they were definitely having a positive impact on my surfing, not to mention the anxiety I’d been feeling over the last year or so, which had weakened its grasp. That’s not to say it wasn’t there, because it was, but now it didn’t have such a tight grip.

  At home later that day, I spent some quiet time in my room. Sitting on my bed cross-legged, I leaned against the wall, closed my eyes and focused on my breath, the way Kiko had taught us that morning. I continued to focus on my breath as best I could. Sometimes my thoughts would take over and I’d imagine myself at the next comp, or think about how I missed my dad, and Derek, or something random like a movie I’d seen. After a while, when I noticed it happening, I’d come back to my breath.

  And then, while in the middle of my meditation with my eyes still closed, I saw a vision of Teo standing at my bedroom window.

  ‘Zoe,’ he smiled and radiated gloriousness as usual. ‘The key factor to success is time spent in stillness. The greatest healing work can occur when you take a moment to get out of the mindless chatter of your thoughts, and listen to what your heart has to say. It’s easy to think you don’t have time for it, especially when your mind is fully occupied by the doings of the world, but Zoe, none of those external distractions is more important than listening to the guidance of your true Self.

  If you wish to increase your level of productivity in the world, learn to extend your time spent in stillness. I promise you will have more focus and determination because your direction will become crystal clear. Rather than squeezing more and more tasks into the day, resulting in a frantic mind and a tired body, you will be able to relax into an amazing flow of prioritized events that will connect the dots for you in just the right way. And without having to plan everything out, you’ll be more flexible with last-minute changes. You’ll feel more energized and be more productive at the same time.

  This is why it is so important to start by spending at least some time in stillness, Zoe. After all, over time, a little will amount to a lot.’

  Judging by the way he stared at me, he seemed to be finished speaking.

  ‘I totally get it, Teo! I feel like that’s exactly what I’ve been experiencing. The last couple of weeks have been so interesting, and I didn’t plan any of them out. It’s like the right people were inviting me to do the right things, at the right time. I’ve been training in new ways and meeting new people. And most importantly, feeling better in the water.’

  ‘Yes, you are finding your groove again, Zoe. Good job!’

  He smiled just as a bright ray of light came shining in from the window behind him. It gleamed straight through him and shone onto me. Or rather, into me. I felt warmth in my heart and calm in my mind. The light shone brighter and brighter while Teo became more and more of a shadow. Until, eventually, he was gone.

  I opened my eyes and looked towards the window, but of course he wasn’t there. I picked up my phone to check the time. It was 4:17pm. It had only been about 15 minutes since I had closed my eyes.

  Even if it was only in my mind, I still got to see Teo today. Icing on the cake, I thought happily, as I took to heart what he had said.

  CHAPTER

  28

  ‘Holy crap!’

  I woke up way late the next morning. It was 7:33am and I had missed the lifeguard workout. Ugh man, my body was sore!

  ‘Have. To. Get. Up.’ I moaned with grogginess.

  I rolled over to the side of the bed and laid on my stomach, thinking about getting up. It’s the smart thing to do, I decided. But sometimes, what you think is the smart thing to do, isn’t actually the right thing to do. Today, my body told me that the right thing to do was close my eyes and go back to sleep. So I did, and I didn’t even twitch an eye again until 9:15am, when I awoke, this time feeling rested.

  I made a cuppa and headed to the back porch with my new book Thinking Body, Dancing Mind. It’s was Kiko’s favourite, and she had lent me her copy after our tai chi chat the other day. Apparently it was a book that could bust me into the next levels of sports performance. It incorporated a lot of eastern philosophy, which I was relatively unfamiliar with, but since I loved the tai chi workout so much, Kiko figured I could benefit from the teachings of this book, both in my life and my career. I trusted Kiko, so I was totally open to it.

  I opened the book to a random page near the beginning:

  “TaoSport warriors create inner and outer goals and strive to develop the skills to accomplish them – without seeking to destroy their competitors. The TaoAthlete:

  is individualistic;

  has courage to risk failure, learn from setbacks, and forge ahead;

  possesses a multidimensional approach to competition;

  focuses on how the game is placed (process) as opposed to outcomes (product);

  uses the event to gain greater self-realization;

  trains the mind to see through the complexity of outer trappings of athletics into its essence;

  knows his or her vulnerabilities and trains to strengthen them;

  creates balance, moderation, and simplicity when possible;

  sees competitions as partners who facilitate improvement;

  sees success as one part of the process of sports;

  understands that performance is a rollercoaster and has the patience to ride the ups and downs;

  blends with forces so as not to create counterforce;

  has vision, and dreams things into possibilities; and

  enjoys sport for the pleasure it gives.”

  I liked everything about this list, including the sound of being a TaoSport warrior – cool! Plus, just the simple act of reading this list made me feel better. More expansive, more open to the possibilities of personal growth through surfing. It resonated with me deeply.

  As I took my last sip of coffee, I heard the familiar swoosh of the upstairs sliding door as it opened. I heard heavy footsteps above me and shortly felt sand falling through the cracks of the upper deck onto my head.

  ‘Wowzers! Hello?’ I called up.

  ‘Zoeeee!’ Next thing I knew, Seth was leaning over the deck railing, peering down at me. He had a baseball cap on which made it hard for me to see his face, except that his smile was gleaming in the sun. ‘What’re you up to? I thought you were deep in training with my sis and her lifeys. He he he!’

  ‘So funny, Seth,’ I said sarcastically. ‘Yeah, I kinda slept in this morning. What are you up to?’

  ‘I’m going to the skate park. My mate asked if I could teach some of his rugrats a few things. He has a class three times a week and he thought it’d be fun if I came as a guest i
nstructor.’

  ‘No way, that’s awesome. Do you know what you’re teaching?’

  ‘Aye, sort of. Not sure. Hey, do you wanna come? You can have a giggle at my expense!’ he said with a chuckle.

  I laughed and paused for a second, pretending to contemplate the decision, but I couldn’t deny the fact that my heart was saying yes.

  ‘Um yeah! I could do with a good laugh!’

  ‘Sweet. Meet you out front in 10.’

  Swoosh, swoosh, and he was back inside.

  Gathering my stuff, I felt excited and nervous. Skateboarding had been my thing back in Colorado, but I hadn’t done it much since I’d left the U.S. many years ago. Maybe it reminded me of my mom too much; she was the one who’d always taken me to the park. Now we barely talked. I felt sad all of a sudden, and started to second-guess whether I should go.

  ‘Z, you ready?’ Seth was calling from outside.

  C’mon Zoe, you can do this, no turning back now, I thought.

  ‘Okay, just gimme a sec,’ I yelled back, quickly filling my water. Shutting the door behind me, I realized something kinda important. Oh crap.

  ‘Seth! I don’t have a skateboard!’

  ‘Ye of little faith! I’m way ahead of ya!’ he said holding up two boards. As he shut the boot, I noticed a black bumper sticker with ‘Follow The Feelgood’ written in bold, white letters.

  ‘Follow the feelgood, huh? What’s that supposed to mean?’ I said curiously as we both hopped into the car.

  ‘Seriously, Z? Isn’t it self-explanatory?’ He gave me a squinty-eyed half-frown as he turned the ignition, like I was being stupid. ‘Zo, you’ve got to let loose a little bit!’ He smiled at me and then looked back as he reversed out of the driveway and onto the road.

  ‘Well, maybe,’ I said somewhat defensively. ‘I just like to stay focused, I guess.’

  ‘I hear ya, Z, but focus can be full of fun too, you know.’

  ‘Hmm. Well, I have been working on that these last few weeks.’