Look at multipurpose tools — they provide a lot of functionality in one small, convenient package. Also, some bike shops offer kits with everything you need already assembled.
Putting together a basic tool kit
For starters, we recommend that you include the following tools in your emergency tool kit. (After you have some biking experience, you may decide to change or add to it.)
Small frame-mounted tire pump: If you’ve been doing any biking already, you probably already have a tire pump — but you may not have a small one that you can mount on your frame. If you don’t already have one of these small, frame-mounted pumps, put this at the top of your list.
Tire patch kit: Patching a flat tire is an unavoidable part of biking, and a tire patch kit is essential. A patch kit includes patches, glue, and a tool to rough up the surface of the tube to improve adhesion.
Spare inner tube: If your tube explodes, you’ll have to replace it with a new one, so carrying a spare inner tube with you is important.
Tire levers: Unless you have an a racing bike that uses tubular tires, you’ll need tire levers to remove and install a tire.
Allen wrenches: You’ll need these for adjusting various parts of your bike. Most Allen wrenches come in a kit or as a part of a multipurpose tool with the most popular sizes found on a bike.
Screwdrivers: You’ll need both a flathead screwdriver and a Phillips screwdriver for adjusting derailleurs and other parts of your bike. You may need a regular-size screwdriver and a smaller one depending on your bike.
Spoke wrench: You need a spoke wrench that fits the spoke nipples on your bike. To determine what size spoke wrench you need, visit your local bike shop and ask for help.
Pliers: You’ll need pliers for pulling cables.
Multipurpose tool: Many bike shops offer a multipurpose tool, which includes screwdrivers, Allen wrenches, a chain tool, and other types of tools.
Rag: You’ll use clean rags to wipe your hands after some messy repair jobs. You can also use a rag when you’re checking tires for flats, handling chains, and so on.
Small light: If you have to stay out later than expected, it’s good to have a light that you can clip to your bike when it gets dark. You may want to have an LED light permanently mounted or clipped to your bike. A rear blinking light is a good idea, too. Lights are inexpensive, and the front light at least is a legal requirement.
Adding tools for an extended trip
As biking becomes more popular, many riders are discovering the enjoyment in taking extended trips on their bikes. If you’re planning a bike trip that will last for more than a day or two, you need to add some additional tools and parts to your emergency tool kit (see the preceding section).
Which tools you should take depends on where you’re biking and for how long. If you’ll be passing through a lot of small towns, chances are pretty good that you can find a local bike shop to help you in a jam. Dennis has taken extended trips through Europe where he’s been able to pack very few tools because of the popularity of biking and the large number of local bike shops along the way. Once, on the outskirts of Limerick, Ireland, he had a minor accident and ruined some spokes. A passerby stopped to help and eventually took Dennis and his bike to a bike shop in town. After Dennis’s bike was repaired, the friendly passerby invited him back to his house where his family gave Dennis a warm bed and a traditional Irish breakfast the next morning. Although we don’t recommend having an accident to meet people, this was one of the highlights of Dennis’s time in Ireland.
Although, in many cases, you’ll be able to find help if you break down on the side of the road, you’re better off being ready to handle the repair on your own. For extended trips, we recommend having everything from the preceding section, as well as the following additional tools:
Spare tire: A number of companies make tires that can be folded and packed away. Surprisingly enough, folding tires are often actually better-quality tires, just with a foldable Kevlar bead instead of a stiff wire bead.
Extra tubes: If you ride across something on the road that blows out a tube, there is always a chance that you’ll hit it with your back tire as well, so keep two, just in case.
Chain tool: A longer trip increases your chances of having issues with your chain, and you’ll need this tool to take it apart and reconnect it.
Chain links and rivets: If you have issues with your chain, you may need to replace links. Have extra rivets or connecting links available for when you reconnect the chain.
Spare spokes: In our experience, spoke problems are one of the top three or four issues that you’ll encounter on an extended trip. Keep at least two spare spokes on hand. Be sure to confirm what sizes you need.
On some bikes, the size of the spokes can differ on the front and rear wheels and even within the same wheel.
Spare cables: If you’re on an extended trip, your bike will likely be packed down with extra weight, which puts additional strain on your cables. Pack a replacement cable for the brakes and one for the derailleur.
Lubrication: You’ll want to keep the parts of your bike — especially the chain — properly lubricated during your trip.
Duct tape: This is the all-purpose MacGyver tool. If you have to hold something together on your bike until you get to the next town, duct tape may do the job.
Giving your bike the once-over: A pre-ride inspection
Next time you head out for a ride, take a moment to do a quick inspection of your bike. It’ll only take a few minutes and you just might prevent a bigger problem from happening. Trust us: You don’t want to be discovering that you have an issue with your brakes as you’re going full-speed down a hill.
In the following sections, we cover all the things you should check before each and every ride.
Wheels
The quick-release levers on the wheels should be securely positioned in the closed position. Open and close the levers once to confirm that they’re tight. If you find that they’re loose, open the lever, turn the nut opposite the lever a quarter-turn and re-close the lever. When you’re sure that the levers are secure, move the wheel side to side check for looseness. Next, lift the wheel off the ground and give it a spin to see that it doesn’t wobble and that the rim doesn’t contact the brake pads at any point.
Tires
Check the air pressure of your tires with a pressure gauge and compare it with the recommended pressure listed on the sidewall. Under-inflated tires will drastically increase the rolling resistance, thereby increasing the amount of energy needed to pedal the bicycle. Properly inflated tires also better absorb any impact and protect the wheel from damage.
While you’re checking the pressure, visually inspect the tires, looking for any cracks, cuts, or tears.
Brakes
Give the brake levers a strong squeeze to ensure that the brakes firmly grip the wheels — you shouldn’t have to pull the levers more than halfway to the handlebars. Next, examine the brake pads and make sure they have sufficient rubber. Also pay attention to their position relative to the rim — they shouldn’t be too high (because they’ll rub a hole in the tire) or too low (because they could slip down into the spokes). There should be 1mm to 2mm of space between the pads and the rim.
Handlebars
Straddle the front wheel pinching it between your thighs. Grip the handlebars and try to twist them side to side. Try the same procedure, but this time straddle the frame, squeeze the brakes, and try to rock the bicycle back and forth. If there’s play in the handlebars or stem, it could mean either that the clamp bolts need to be tightened or you have a loose headset, which could be dangerous at high speeds.
Pedals and cranks
Just as you checked for looseness with the handlebars (see the preceding section), you’ll want to do the same with the pedals and cranks. First, grab a crank in each h
and and try to shake them. If there is looseness, fixing it may be as simple as tightening the crank bolts, or you may have issues with the bottom bracket. Confirm that the pedals spin freely but that you can’t pull them away from the cranks.
While You Ride
One of the best ways to extend the life of your bike doesn’t require a special tool or a fresh application of lube. All you have to do is be careful when you ride.
Although modern bikes are designed to withstand a significant amount of punishment, try to avoid riding in a way that puts additional strain on your bike or, even worse, increases the likelihood of an accident. Here are some steps you can take while riding, to prolong the life of your bike:
Pay attention to the road in front of you. Your goal is to avoid obstacles like rocks, potholes, and other hazards, which, if impacted, could result in a bent rim or other problem.
Instead of jumping or riding across a curb, dismount and walk your bike.
Shift into your lowest gear before you reach the steepest section of a climb. Trying to shift when you’re barely moving puts a lot of strain on the chain and derailleurs. If the chain springs off the largest cog, into the spokes, the damage will be even greater.
If you have to go over a bump, raise yourself off the saddle and use your arms and legs as shock absorbers as if you were a horse jockey. This lessens the impact of the blow.
When riding, you should listen to your bike. If it makes awkward noises or grinds in certain operations, it’s time to diagnose the ailment before it gets worse and destroys internal parts.
After You Ride
Even though you may be ready to relax and kick back with a cold one after your ride, if you take care of a few issues (like cleaning and lubricating your bike), your bike will last longer.
Cleaning your bike
Unless you’re a part of the U.S. Olympic team and are training on an indoor track, your bike is going to get dirty. If you’re like us and you love the outdoors, you probably don’t mind dirt. Hopping on a mountain bike and plowing your way through mud-covered mountain passes and rolling streams may bring back the joy of childhood and your mother chasing you through the house as you left muddy footprints behind.
Your bike feels much differently about dirt and grime, though. Dirt acts as an abrasive and, as it works its way into the internal parts of your bike, it starts wearing out bearings and other components. Even if your bike isn’t covered in mud and grime, dust can build up inside the chain, gears, bearings, and other parts. A bike that you haven’t washed for a while because you think it’s fairly clean may be wearing out unnecessarily with each turn of the crank.
If you could do only one thing in this book to care for your bike, it would be to wash your bike frequently. If you ride in wet, muddy, or dusty weather, we recommend that you clean your bike immediately at the end of your ride. If you ride your bike in normal conditions, you probably can get away with cleaning it every week or two (maybe longer, if you live in a dry climate).
If your bike appears fairly clean after riding, all it may need is a quick wipe-down. Use a damp cloth or paper towels to wipe off any dust or dirt that may have accumulated on the frame, the fork, the handlebars, and the cranks.
If your bike is a dirty or hasn’t been cleaned in a week or two, it’s time to do a serious cleaning. Here are the supplies you need to clean your bike:
Bucket
Dishwashing soap, car cleaner, or a cleaner from your local bike shop
Sponge
Brushes (such as a toothbrush, bottle brush, and a bathroom cleaning brush, or a specialized brush designed to clean hard-to-reach places on your bike, such as between the sprockets)
Degreaser
A clean rag
Car wax
If you have a bike stand, use it to clean your bike. You’ll be able to rotate the cranks to clean the chain and you’ll have easier access to other parts of the bike, such as the rear derailleur.
To clean your bike properly, follow these steps:
1. Fill a bucket with warm water and a cleaning agent.
2. Wet your bike with a hose without a spray nozzle.
Avoid spraying water directly at your bike, especially toward the hubs or bottom bracket. This may force water and dirt into your bearings and break down the grease in which they’re packed.
3. Use a brush or sponge and soapy water, and brush off as much caked-on mud or dirt from the bike as you can.
Brush in between the sprockets to remove any dirt trapped inside (see Figure 16-1.
4. Spray degreaser on the freewheel, derailleur, chain, and chain ring (see Figure 16-2).
Allow a couple of minutes for the degreaser to penetrate the parts, and then brush it off with a brush.
5. Use a brush or sponge to wash down the entire bike.
Make sure you dig out dirt between the cogs and wherever else it hides. A specially designed brush (available as most bike shops) is useful for this procedure (see Figure 16-3).
6. Rinse the bike with a hose.
7. Dry the bike using a clean rag.
You can use a rag or a strip of cloth to wipe away water from between the sprockets (see Figure 16-4), beside the hubs, and around the derailleurs.
Figure 16-1: Using a brush to clean the sprockets.
Figure 16-2: Degreasing various parts of a bike.
Figure 16-3: Digging out dirt between the cogs.
Figure 16-4: Using a cloth to clean between the sprockets.
8. If you have time, apply car wax to the frame and remove it using a clean rag.
9. Lubricate your bike following the steps in the next section.
When you remove grease on your bike by cleaning it, you’ll need to lubricate its parts afterwards. Washing and lubricating your bike go hand in hand — if you wash your bike, you should be prepared to follow it with a lube job.
Giving your bike a lube job
When you clean your bike, you’ll likely remove a lot of lubrication and your bike will be thirsty for a fresh dose of oil and grease.
If you’re a typical recreational rider, you may only have to give your bike a quick lube job every week or two. But if you’re riding in wet weather or you’re taking long bike trips, you should oil your bike more frequently. Just like the pre-ride inspection (earlier in this chapter), a lube job is quick and easy — you can do it in a few minutes, and it’ll provide many benefits for your bike.
Many of the parts of a bike that require oil are not fully exposed, which makes it harder to get the oil into the right place. For this, we recommend using a spray can with a thin, straw-like extension. You’ll be able to insert the extension into small, hard-to-reach areas such as inside the brake levers.
Here are the parts of your bike you’ll want to lubricate after cleaning:
Brakes: Spray some oil into the brake pivot points to keep them in working order and to prevent rust (see Figure 16-5). Be careful not to get any on the brake pads or rims, because this will impact your bike’s braking capacity. Also, give a shot of lube to the spot where the cable is attached.
Brake levers: Apply oil to the brake-lever pivots (see Figure 16-6). Pull back on the brake lever and spray the exposed cable. Be sure to cover the cable adjusters with lube to protect them from rust.
Figure 16-5: Lubricating the brakes.
Derailleurs: There are several pivot points where the front and rear derailleurs move. Cover each of these with a quick shot of lube. On the front derailleur, lubricate the pivot point (see Figure 16-7) On the rear derailleur, be sure to spray both of the pulley wheels (see Figure 16-8).
Figure 16-6: Lubricating the brake levers.
Figure 16-7: Lubricating the front derailleur.
Figure 16-8: Lubricating the rear
derailleur.
Chain and sprockets: Of all the parts to lubricate on a bike, the chain is the most important. A poorly lubricated chain will wear out quickly and can shorten the lifespan of your chainrings and sprocket. Apply an even amount of lube to the chain while you’re turning the cranks (see Figure 16-9). You want to make sure that the oil does more than coat the surface but works its way into the individual chain links. If you notice that there is buildup of dirt and grime on the chain, clean it first with a degreaser and then apply a fresh coat of lubrication. When you’re finished with the chain, apply a few drops of lube to the sprockets (see Figure 16-10).
Cables: Give a light spray of oil to where the inner cable exits from the cable housing (see Figure 16-11). If you have a couple of minutes, remove the cable from the stop and give a spray into the cable housing.
After you’re done lubricating your bike, be sure to use a rag and wipe any excess oil off your bike to prevent it from attracting dirt and grime.
Figure 16-9: Lubricating the chain.
Figure 16-10: Lubricating the sprockets.
Figure 16-11: Lubricating cables.
Storing your bike
How you store your bike is an important factor in its maintenance. Protecting your bike from the elements should be the most important consideration in storing it. Even for short-term storage such as overnight or for a few days, you should try to bring it indoors whenever possible. If you leave it outside, it’ll be more exposed to wind, rain, and dirt, all of which can have a negative effect on your bike.
If you must store your bike outside for any period of time, consider buying a bike cover or even a tarp. This will provide some protection from rain and from dust and dirt blowing into its parts.
Bike Repair & Maintenance For Dummies® Page 24